Defective RC switching track?
Posted 21 August 2010 - 07:39 PM
I have one of the first-run 7898 set. I made a small layout using four RC switching track. I noticed that on two of my switching track, my train wheels often bumped something, or a derailment occured when I took the "off" path. I thought maybe I built something wrong on a customized train, but I noticed it passed over my other two switching tracks with no problem. I carefully inspected my four switches, and ran wheelsets over them. I noticed that two of them (the ones that you could tell have been used more) had a weird notch in the part that curves. Also, there is a smaller gap for the wheels to pass through. This causes the wheels to hit the rail, and either make a hard bump into place or cause a derailment. The center straight rail on the old ones is 3/4 of an inch longer than the ones on the new ones.
Look closely at the part of the rail that moves when you switch. See the little rectangular notch? That area right there is skinnier than the rest of the track, causing the whole problem. More recent RC track doesn't have that. Also, it is possible that it may have been only in the first run or so of the RC cargo train. I've noticed on both the PF trains and the RC trains, there were changes made on later runs.
Anyways, is there any other news on this? Also, think lego would replace these older style RC switcing track with some newer ones that wont make my train derail?
Another interesting note, is that the middle rail on the 9V switching track is the same length as the one on the RC track. Why doesn't this cause derailment you ask? Well, the reason is the notch on the RC track curve. Though technically both the old RC track and the 9V track have this same notch, the 9V track has metal to fill this area making it thick enough to push it past. On the RC track, the notch is there but the metal isn't; this makes that one part of the track very thin, and the train wheels naturally go into that notched area causing it to hit the middle rail.
Posted 22 August 2010 - 02:11 PM
Here is how to fix it:
Locate the straight rail segment, second from the top ( and bottom ) in the photo .
It measures 9cm on new track or 9.4cm on old track. With an Exacto knife or single edge razor blade cut off 0.4cm of the switch end of that rail and shape the end of the rail as it was.
Locate the rerailer on the outside curved rail ( top and bottom rails in the photo)
On old track it is straight ; on new track the switch end is curved.
To fix this, one must heat the plastic , hold it in the new position and let it cool.
I used a pr of long nose pliers, and heated the end by holding on to a hot soldering iron for one minute.
Bend the switch end of the rerailer, to open the gap, and hold it until it cools
That fixed the bump bump
Edited by dlp4341, 27 August 2010 - 01:57 PM.
Posted 26 August 2010 - 07:17 PM
Have you tried modifying your old switches as I outlined?
How did they work out?
Posted 26 August 2010 - 08:04 PM
Posted 27 August 2010 - 03:09 AM
Shape the re railer like the one on the new track, and allow the plastic to cool .
Heat the pliers , not the track.
Edited by dlp4341, 27 August 2010 - 01:36 PM.
Posted 06 September 2010 - 06:39 AM
400 of you saw the Post. Did anyone try fixing some switches?
How did it go? Let us know your comments..
Edited by dlp4341, 06 September 2010 - 06:58 AM.
Posted 07 September 2010 - 05:37 AM
Posted 07 September 2010 - 06:11 PM
I am happy you are pleased
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