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7720 With real lights


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#1 LEGO Train 12 Volts

LEGO Train 12 Volts

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Posted 04 April 2010 - 08:25 PM

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Hi everyone,  
this is another case of fake lights solved :tongue: !  
The 7720 diesel shunter with n. 2 diode 1N4001 (both of them cost less then 1 Euro)  and n. 4 Lego 12 Volts Light Brick can run forward with only the front yellow and the rear red lights on
...and if you invert the direction of the locomotive these lights turn off to switch on the other pair of lights.  
Also the control seat is placed on a tourtable plate to make real the engine driver conduct.

Here the simple electric circuit layout

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and some details

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...see you soon!  :wink:
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#2 AMuller396

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Posted 04 April 2010 - 10:23 PM

Brilliant.  I will definetly try this on my 7720

Thanks

#3 lightningtiger

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Posted 04 April 2010 - 10:28 PM

Nice idea 'LEGO Train 12 Volts' - I would use LEDs - hence a diode would not be required - yellow LEDs have around a 2 Volt so a dropper resistor of 330 or 390 Ohms for 9 Volt or 470 or 560 Ohms for 12 Volt would work the same way. Depending also if you use white LEDs they don't need as much of a dropper resistor.
Keep on bricking ! :sweet:

#4 LEGO Train 12 Volts

LEGO Train 12 Volts

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Posted 05 April 2010 - 07:53 AM

View Postlightningtiger, on Apr 4 2010, 10:28 PM, said:

Nice idea 'LEGO Train 12 Volts' - I would use LEDs - hence a diode would not be required - yellow LEDs have around a 2 Volt so a dropper resistor of 330 or 390 Ohms for 9 Volt or 470 or 560 Ohms for 12 Volt would work the same way. Depending also if you use white LEDs they don't need as much of a dropper resistor.
Keep on bricking ! :sweet:

Correct :thumbup: ! You can use also LEDs (technically: Light Emitting Diode) and a dropper resistor, only you have to fit the leds in the bricks! :tongue:
Thanks for the good points  :laugh:
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#5 TheBrickster

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Posted 05 April 2010 - 02:35 PM

Nice job on this.  It's interesting to see the electrical diagram.  12V did offer a lot back in the day.

#6 AFOL12v

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 09:11 PM

Why you didn't used an old 4v motor and replace the elec motor inside with a 12v version?

And when I see all those wires in your layout, it makes me crazy.......AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Edited by AFOL12v, 14 April 2010 - 09:12 PM.


#7 Duq

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 07:51 PM

View PostTheBrickster, on Apr 5 2010, 02:35 PM, said:

Nice job on this.  It's interesting to see the electrical diagram.  12V did offer a lot back in the day.
I think you misunderstood something Brickster. 12V didn't offer this, it's DIY. You could apply this to 9V as well.
If at first you don’t succeed, call it version 1.0

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#8 Janco147

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 02:27 AM

yeah, nice one! What brick did you use? Regular 2x2 or something else? I'm curious. I build mine from transparent 2x2's and then spraypaint them.

#9 peterab

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 02:43 AM

View PostJanco147, on 04 March 2011 - 02:27 AM, said:

yeah, nice one! What brick did you use? Regular 2x2 or something else? I'm curious. I build mine from transparent 2x2's and then spraypaint them.

He's using the official Lego 12V light bricks. I'm pretty sure the diodes are sitting in the middle of the engine where the wiring starts. The small voltage drop across the diodes probably makes a little difference to the brightness of the lights.

#10 LEGO Train 12 Volts

LEGO Train 12 Volts

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 09:30 PM

View Postpeterab, on 04 March 2011 - 02:43 AM, said:

He's using the official Lego 12V light bricks. I'm pretty sure the diodes are sitting in the middle of the engine where the wiring starts. The small voltage drop across the diodes probably makes a little difference to the brightness of the lights.

It's correct! I'm using the official Lego 12V light bricks :classic:
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