MOC: Santa Fe Western 4-4-0 Locomotive
Posted 30 January 2010 - 09:37 PM
First, I'd like to thank Train Tech members BMW, SavaTheAggie, and others who posted your recommendations for improving my recent Santa Fe 4-4-0. Last night, I decided to get busy and modify the locomotive as I read some of your tips. As I found myself removing a few plates here, and a few bricks there, I soon had the entire locomotive gutted to a point of starting from scratch, something that I now appreciate.
I was particularly inspired by an image that BMW had shared of one of his favorite locomotives, the Reno Circa 1910. With it's light grey boiler and black and gold color scheme, I thought it would serve as the perfect inspiration model with my existing pieces. Spending a lot of time trying to improve on areas that you guys mentioned, I am now quite pleased with my latest 4-4-0 locomotive, the Santa Fe Western #4 (name and number purely fictitious, but based on the Reno 1910):
Posted 30 January 2010 - 09:45 PM
Looks like it has a bright coat of pretty paint on it.
Love the details on this one.
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Posted 30 January 2010 - 09:56 PM
I like your Wild West MOCs, however, I didn't write to your topics. They are pretty, good looking MOCs.
Wheels under tender could be easely replaced with 9V motor? Or need some changes?
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Posted 30 January 2010 - 10:33 PM
Posted 30 January 2010 - 11:15 PM
Posted 30 January 2010 - 11:18 PM
Posted 31 January 2010 - 12:23 AM
Here's another shot in Train Town with the hopper MD. I'd like to build a nice boxcar now.
I also discovered some sort of design flaw with the wheels. It doesn't take curves very well, and I'm not sure why - something to do with the use of the little wheels in the front perhaps. I'm not sure, but need to fix it before powering. Perhaps some of you who have experience with steam locomotives might know what I'm doing wrong.
Posted 31 January 2010 - 04:39 AM
Posted 31 January 2010 - 09:20 AM
Posted 31 January 2010 - 10:41 AM
Posted 31 January 2010 - 05:00 PM
Posted 31 January 2010 - 06:28 PM
Do the small wheels up front have one or two turning points? I've noticed that in order for locomotives/long cars they need to have two turning points. Some of the longer train cars (like the Metroliner Club Car) have two bogies that allow them to turn. However, since obviously you can't turn the driving wheels from the train itself, you have to give two points to the smaller wheels. Look at the instructions for the Emerald Night (page 56). See the dark gray Technic 1X3 Liftarm? Notice how it gives the front wheels two points to turn so it can go through curves. Also check out RailBricks Issue 6 (page 32) as it shows some more examples. That should probably solve your problem. Other then that you have a very nice train coming along and I look forward to seeing it finished.
Edited by Yoshi648, 31 January 2010 - 06:56 PM.
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Posted 31 January 2010 - 06:55 PM
Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:11 PM
Posted 01 February 2010 - 02:37 AM
In short, 10194 front bogie turning mechanism = problem gone.
Posted 01 February 2010 - 04:45 AM
In short, 10194 front bogie turning mechanism = problem gone.
Yeah, that should work, but there are other options to. In principal you run into trouble when you have more than two axles or two axles which are too far apart. Due to the tight radius of LEGO track 'too far' is about 14 studs for standard size wheels.
Some of the possible solutions are; flangless wheels (Used a lot on large steam engine drivers), allow an axle to slide (used often on C bogies), allow a bogie to rotate (this would work on the front end of your train, and may allow the pistons to stay fixed in place), allow the bogie to float and turn (suggested above and used on EN).
In the case of your train, I'd try a rotating front bogie, and a flangeless driver on the back wheel. You need one solution for each 'set' of wheels as it were, otherwise the position taken by one set will still result in the second set causeing friction on the rails. The reason I chose these options is you may be able to get the small wheels to rotate around pistons fixed to the body, and therefore add working drive rods. If this isnt important to you the EN solution with or without a blind driver should be OK to, though the front of the engine will hang further out around curves, and you'll probably have to fit the pistons higher to clear the bogie or fit them too the bogie.
BTW I really like the look of this redesign, it's as much better than the original, than the original was of your previous work (not that previous engines were bad, but it was far less original buildwise than these).
Posted 01 February 2010 - 07:05 AM
The pony truck simply floats under the boiler in curves, pivoting and sliding under the smokebox.
Posted 01 February 2010 - 08:58 AM
The colour scheme is very nice, and the designe of the train is nice aswell.
Your custom decals are great!
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Posted 02 February 2010 - 03:32 PM
Posted 03 February 2010 - 01:05 AM
Welcome to realistic Steam trains The reason why you so often see pictures of the running gear of train mocs on Brickshelf and flickr is it normally takes some time to get it right, so people share the successful techniques.
Posted 04 February 2010 - 05:49 AM
I also added a 9V motor to the tender and now the train moves nicely on its own (except for a little squeaking from the smaller wheels up front). The train doesn't seem to have a lot of traction, but I suppose that's due to the 9V motor on the tender. In any case, I'm very happy with the progress and I may be adding another car very soon.
Posted 04 February 2010 - 06:01 AM
Posted 08 February 2010 - 05:20 AM
I've been doing some photo editing lately with various images from the western United States and thought I'd share this recent image. When creating images for my Grave Stone collection, it's much easier because they're black and white with lots of shaded areas - not much thought as to which looks better or the need to remove objects from the image. Using color photographs is much more difficult and requires heavier editing.
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