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Emerald Night Fix


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#26 Holodoc

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Posted 12 July 2011 - 09:13 PM

Just to keep this topic updated - there's a fix of the known problems published in Railbricks magazine no. 7, page 31-33.

I've done all the changes and it runs very, very smoothly. I will do a longer run of the engine on sunday, so I'll keep you updated.

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#27 kage28

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Posted 13 July 2011 - 07:32 AM

Hi,

I'm having some difficulty finding the brick "colored" above as well as the part where the piston actually goes to on Pick a Brick. Can anyone tell me which section should I go to to look?

Thanks in advance!

#28 LEGO Train 12 Volts

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Posted 13 July 2011 - 07:45 PM

All the pieces have to be black.  :classic:
You can find them on bricklink
Posted Image   Posted Image

#29 domboy

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Posted 13 July 2011 - 10:10 PM

View PostHolodoc, on 12 July 2011 - 09:13 PM, said:

Just to keep this topic updated - there's a fix of the known problems published in Railbricks magazine no. 7, page 31-33.

I've done all the changes and it runs very, very smoothly. I will do a longer run of the engine on sunday, so I'll keep you updated.

Also on that note (keeping this thread updated) Lego also fixed problem #1 documented in Railbricks #7 in later production runs of the model. I don't remember if I read it earlier in the thread or another, but this was the case in my recently purchase copy of the set. The updated instructions are on Lego.com.

#30 gogocar

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Posted 14 July 2011 - 12:31 PM

According to this topic, no modifications and extra parts are necessary, but it's crucial that you put the opposite wheels in such a position so the pins are 90° apart each other.

But, since I dont own the actual train, I'm asking will this solve the problem because I find it hard to believe that so many people encountered this problem,

although it's clearly pointed out in the instructions how you need to put the wheels.
You know, I have one simple request. And that is to have sharks with frickin' laser beams attached to their heads! Now evidently my cycloptic colleague informs me that that cannot be done.

#31 Holodoc

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Posted 14 July 2011 - 06:24 PM

View Postgogocar, on 14 July 2011 - 12:31 PM, said:

According to this topic, no modifications and extra parts are necessary, but it's crucial that you put the opposite wheels in such a position so the pins are 90° apart each other.

But, since I dont own the actual train, I'm asking will this solve the problem because I find it hard to believe that so many people encountered this problem,

although it's clearly pointed out in the instructions how you need to put the wheels.

Well I've got two copies of the train and found it hard to see (the 90° issue) in the instructions. (Maybe they made new instructions, too?)
But even when I realized to put the wheels the right way there were still the other problems.
So for a smooth run it is necessary to make the modifications.

Posted Image
Even more interested in LEGO bricks & parts? Read Tim Johnson's (aka Caperberry) blog: Posted Image


#32 I am Lego

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Posted 16 July 2011 - 10:32 AM

View PostHolodoc, on 14 July 2011 - 06:24 PM, said:

Well I've got two copies of the train and found it hard to see (the 90° issue) in the instructions. (Maybe they made new instructions, too?)
But even when I realized to put the wheels the right way there were still the other problems.
So for a smooth run it is necessary to make the modifications.

I don't know about anyone else. But I found that if you ran the train over your hand that it would lock the wheels. The reason for this is that only the rear wheels are "driven" and if they spin at a different speed to the front wheels the connecting rod looses allignment and the wheels lock. I figured that at some point on a layout that this would also occur so my solution was to extend the gearing and "drive" the front wheels as well.

   Cheeers, Oggy.

#33 hoeij

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Posted 16 July 2011 - 12:31 PM

View PostI am Lego, on 16 July 2011 - 10:32 AM, said:

I don't know about anyone else. But I found that if you ran the train over your hand that it would lock the wheels. The reason for this is that only the rear wheels are "driven" and if they spin at a different speed to the front wheels the connecting rod looses allignment and the wheels lock. I figured that at some point on a layout that this would also occur so my solution was to extend the gearing and "drive" the front wheels as well.

   Cheeers, Oggy.
Oggy, you did not put the wheels on correctly, the left and right wheels should be rotated 90 degrees with respect to each other.  Your post tells me that your left/right wheels differ by either 0 or 180 degrees.

#34 I am Lego

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Posted 16 July 2011 - 01:35 PM

View Posthoeij, on 16 July 2011 - 12:31 PM, said:

Oggy, you did not put the wheels on correctly, the left and right wheels should be rotated 90 degrees with respect to each other.  Your post tells me that your left/right wheels differ by either 0 or 180 degrees.
Nope, wheels are definatley at 90 degrees. If you hold the train in your hand and spin the wheels (rear only) the problem will occur. It doesn't seem to happen on tracks , but at some point i thought it mite with slightly uneven track heights. Plus it was fun to tinker with as was the gearing!




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