Southern Pacific GP-30

[Rotundus]

---> New photos of the long promised Mark-II rebuild are near the bottom on page 2 <---

Hi all,

Has anybody built (or tried to build) an EMD GP-30? This ones been kicking around in my head for a while, now. There are a couple of tricky parts up on the roof, but it should be do-able with little compromising. I think 8-wide is probably the way to go. There are possibilities here! Any thoughts?

It's a beautiful locomotive, and deserves to be rendered in LEGO.

Edited July 15, 2016 by Rotundus
Update of topic title

[Imanol BB]

Hi Rotundus, i have seem some pics of that locomotive, and like you, i think an 8 wide Lego version would be great, something that is good about this locomotive is that the trucks have 4 wheels like the lego train motor, so there shouldnt be needed any custom-made truck to match it, and maybe, if it is enough short, the hitches could be in the chassis and not in the trucks, so it would have even better details; i would really like to see it made in real life, im looking forward if there are updates for this.

[xboxtravis7992]

Oh that would be such a wonderful engine in Lego! You really need a front and a top view though to catch the shapes of the roof, here are some examples I could find:

Front view: http://ogrforum.ogau... DRGW.jpg

(the photographer is a famous railfan in my local area)

A top view: http://www.carrtrack...la482sp5007.jpg

And here is a side view of the real life version of the paint scheme you have on your first post: http://illinois-cent...rs/gmo516-2.jpg

And what I think is the most famous GP30 ever built: http://www.hankstruckpictures.com/pix/trucks/mark_wayman/2005/oct05/riggers_heavy_haul/file0019.jpg

Edited April 1, 2016 by xboxtravis7992

[Rotundus]

Hello again,

After checking on a few MOC sites, it appears that nobody has attempted to build this locomotive. I like this added incentive. Currently my wallet is recuperating from the strain I've put it under building the 4449 Daylight I just completed, but I think this is going to get built by Summer's end (or at least a good start).

For Xbox... Here is that front and top view you were asking for. The rear view is a bonus. Although I am partial to the Southern Pacific, that UP machine sure does look good!

https://www.the-blue...0_703-16253.jpg

Edited May 26, 2016 by Rotundus

[Railfan9]

I think the Highnose GP30's are awesome looking!

[Rotundus]

Hi gang,

I think I'm beginning to realize why nobody has built one of these. :| I've just spent the better part of a week staying up way too late test building various ideas, and it looks like if I try to build it in any reasonable L-guage scale... it can't be done. (I hate that phrase!) 6 wide is a no go. It just doesn't look right. 10 wide is great for scale work. But I just don't see a way around the "small wheel" problem. I really like my investigations into 8 wide. The scale is good, the proportions are excellent... everything looks right! Except the wedge shape of the dynamic brake bulge just in front of the air intake. LEGO just doesn't make any appropriate parts for it. I don't have a problem with resorting to the use of non-LEGO construction techniques and materials, its just that if I do so, is it really LEGO?

I'm not going to give up on it, though. This one is going to take a LOT more thought and planning... and maybe a bit of time for TLG to come up with more part designs to work with. (Hmm... Maybe if I turn it into a mega-build...... How hard is it to "brick-build" wheels, anyway?)

Edited: May 26, 2016... -> Right . This post/rant is kind of embarrassing... But it was accurate, for at the time I was feeling quite frustrated with my inability to come up with suitable solutions.

Happy bricking : )

Edited May 26, 2016 by Rotundus

[Feuer Zug]

Have you tried some of these:

https://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?P=43710&name=Wedge%204%20x%202%20Triple%20Left&category=[Wedge]#T=C

The length might be long, but it's a thought.

[CrispyBassist]

This is the best way of building those transitions that I've seen: SNOT by consular_ship on Flickr. (It's not my photo, so I linked to it so y'all can give consular_ship props on his Flickr.) Depending on the color you plan to build the loco in the 2x2 octagonal cone (6039) may work too.

[Rotundus]

Part #43710 Triple Wedge 4 x 2 (r/l) has been the main focus of my trial builds to date. SNOT for the one on the side, normal positioning for the one on top. But the top one should only have two angled faces, not three. If I go 10 wide, it works well enough, and the third wedge face becomes an acceptable compromise... but then the "too small" wheels are the problem. The octagonal cone has the same problem, only more so. That's really the main hang-up. And rest assured, there will be a lot of SNOT-work, can't get away from that. This is far and away the most challenging model I have attempted so far.

When I made the comment about a "Mega-Build", I thought I was only joking... If I brick-build the proper profile for that area the over-all build size would become enormous, but It would eliminate the need for a number of other compromises that I have identified. The main problem I have with a "BIG" build is the money factor... And I would still have to brick-build the wheels.

Edited May 26, 2016 by Rotundus

[zephyr1934]

Aw the GP30 is a great looker with a unique face that can't be found anywhere else. I took a stab at it... <gasp> 10 years ago...

they've been sitting in a box with dead motors... I really need to pull them out, slap on some new motors and update the stickers.

I could have sworn that I've seen other takes on the GP30... but this is the only link I could find handy, maybe the others were at lego shows. A quick google search turned up the picture at the top of this page. And another build here.

[Rotundus]

. I just KNEW somebody had to have attempted to build this. Nicely done Zephyr! A double header, no less! :thumbup: Thank you for the reference pics. Both you and Hole 521 utilized ideas I had not previously considered... and in 6-wide, too. The "Ldglite" cab is interesting as well, and being that it is in 8-wide, it will be closely studied .

. I like your solution for the rear section of the "humpback", and I think I will try a variation of it on mine. Currently I have used part #43710 in an inverted position for the underside... and stagger-stacking several wedge plates for the top will work quite well in solving two issues.

. All of the pictures have given me a considerable amount of "thinking material" to work with. Thanks again.

Edited April 21, 2016 by Rotundus

[zephyr1934]

Glad to be of help, I've always been fond of the GP-30. I'm looking forward to see what you come up with. Meanwhile, I finally remembered where I saw that other version of the GP-30. Someone had a pair of BN units at NMRA NTS in Detroit in 2007

[Rotundus]

As soon as I figure out a work-around for getting photos from my phone to my computer, (no data plan), I'll post pictures of my "work-in-progress". Zephyr, I'm sure you will recognize your influence on my model, . THANK-YOU! I'm a lot further along on this project than I thought I'd be at this point. Inspiration can be such a funny thing, you know? Running gear and cab roof are all that's left... and stickers. Currently it is being built as a Southern Pacific "Bloody Nose" unit, But I am considering changing it to a much more colorful Santa Fe "Kodachrome" unit.

Happy bricking!

Hey Xboxtravis... Have you had a chance to examine that B-unit in your second posted photo? Interesting, eh? It looks like it is a DD-35 or DD-40-b...?... Good catch!

ImanolBB: Sorry, buddy... I didn't mean to ignore you... Putting the hitches in the chassis is part of the plan.

Edited May 17, 2016 by Rotundus

[xboxtravis7992]

Hmm, that does look like a DD unit. Wish I was around to see them in person!

[LoneBrickerSG]

I sort of took a GP30 route when I modded my 60052 locomotive, although I see that I did not do it justice.

[Rotundus]

Hello to Lone BrickerSG...

. Just a philosophical note... Brickheads are never alone !! So much for the deep stuff... Why don't you post a few pics and let your fellow brickers have a look. All MOC's and MODs have merit and deserve to be viewed! Even if you do not think that much of your own creation, your unique interpretation of a subject may inspire another brickhead. And is that really a bad thing?

. And to Xbox - JACOB... Hi! Glad to meet you. I really should have noticed your tagline earlier... Sorry .

. Just a note... As soon as I figure out how to get photos of a reasonable quality onto this site I will post them. (My phone takes photos of such poor resolution that when I try to enlarge them big enough to see any detail, they break down into a pixel-ated mess). I promise to resolve this as soon as I can.

Edited June 7, 2016 by Rotundus

[zephyr1934]

Just a note... As soon as I figure out how to get photos of a reasonable quality onto this site I will post them. (My phone takes photos of such poor resolution that when I try to enlarge them big enough to see any detail, they break down into a pixel-ated mess). I promise to resolve this as soon as I can.

Oh, you don't want to load the photos to eurobricks, you have a VERY SMALL amount of space allocated to you on this site. Rather, load them to flickr, brickshelf (if you are totally old school), or whatever photo sharing site you prefer and then insert them as links in your post. In general you do not want the images in your post to be too large (lots of folks skim recent posts and only a few are really interested in a given topic) but then your links can go to a much higher resolution (that's where flickr is nice). You probably do not need to worry about enlarging your photos, you can never add more resolution than the original shot. And don't worry about making the photos pretty, while it is always neat to see a train on a fully detailed background, it is equally neat to see a build in progress on someone's work area.

[Rotundus]

I just signed up with Flicker and MOC pages. I'm not happy with having to do that , (control issues I think). I tried to use my "flip phone" as a camera, but the photos are so small... wait, I already said that. Oh well... I'll put them up in their small format. At least it will be a teaser for you all.

[Rotundus]

I finally got off my butt and figured out this photo thing... So, here is a pair of 'em for you to enjoy!

gp-30 wip gray side by Ronald Clark, on Flickr

I decided to build it in 10-wide. Very much a WIP, I now hope to have this finished some time before Solstice.

gp-30 wip greytop by Ronald Clark, on Flickr

The biggest area of concern now, is what to do about hiding the wheelsets

Edited May 24, 2016 by Rotundus

[xboxtravis7992]

10 wide; not a scale I'm used to, but at that size a lot of detail could be captured. The only issue I see is the rail will look really small at that size.

[Dan-147]

Actually, at 10 studs wide the rail is very close to scale size. Real trains are 10 feet wide (in North America) while the track gauge is 4 foot 8½ inches. LEGO track has a gauge of more or less 4½ studs. The real problem is with the wheels. The rim (not the flange) is 39 inches in diameter. That works out to about 3½ studs diameter. LEGO wheels are just a bit more than 2 studs diameter. Luckily, the flanges are way over-sized on LEGO wheels so it sort of balances it out visually, at least for 8 studs wide.

Dan-147

[Rotundus]

10-wide was not my first choice. Originally it was to be built in 8-wide, but some of the elements just kind of worked out better in the larger width. Also, 1 lug = 1 foot is very easy to work with. So, 10-wide it is... And I'll just have to deal with the wheels.

The plan for the handrails, is to use 3mm hose and Part #11090 to hold more 3mm hose that has been heated, bent and formed to shape. It should look about right, (I hope). I won't know until it gets rigged up... But parts are on their way!

Just wondering... How LEGO is heat assisted shaping? I mean, is it acceptable as an all LEGO solution for the handrails?

Happy Bricking!

Edited April 28, 2016 by Rotundus

[Nemo57]

Recognizable you model turned. All right. I also tried to build a simplified version of Lego City. Width 6 this locomotive could not do. A width of 7 even two already do finish.

[Nemo57]

Here's a photo for example. Thank you for an interesting topic and an interesting locomotive, I did not know about this.

[zephyr1934]

10-wide was not my first choice. Originally it was to be built in 8-wide, but some of the elements just kind of worked out better in the larger width. Also, 1 lug = 1 foot is very easy to work with. So, 10-wide it is... And I'll just have to deal with the wheels.

The plan for the handrails, is to use 3mm hose and Part #11090 to hold more 3mm hose that has been heated, bent and formed to shape. It should look about right, (I hope). I won't know until it gets rigged up... But parts are on their way!

Just wondering... How LEGO is heat assisted shaping? I mean, is it acceptable as an all LEGO solution for the handrails?

Happy Bricking!

Ah my friend, you have entered a world where about the only rules are the laws of physics, and some of the best builders appear to even ignore those laws. Do you melt the lego tubing? That's all up to where you want to draw the line. Some strive for pure lego solutions (that can be an interesting challenge at times) others go for whatever works, and many fall somewhere in between. One of the builders uses 3mm insulated wire instead of 3mm lego tubes. A lot cheaper and it holds its form.

Meanwhile, your build is looking great and is easily recognizable (imagine what these would have looked like in the black widdow paint scheme). I presume that you know that the 1x2 grilled cheese slopes on the nose are available in red, to make the nose look better. Though you might want to consider replacing these with nx2 curved slopes, while the form factor is slightly wrong, the lack of vertical lines I think is worth considering the tradeoff.

Secondly, you should consider operational issues. The coupler is rigidly fixed to the body of the locomotive, which is prototypical, but will likely cause problems on lego curves. The steps might also cause problems. Just stuff to check and make sure it is not problematic. The width and length are certainly pushing the upper limit of not being a bother on lego curves.

Nice work