Redimus Posted September 21, 2014 So, I finally finished the Q Class, and I'm really happy with it! Have a gander... The cab area. Tender detail I decided to design the tender so it looked good even without a load of coal. It doesn't go all the way through, but it looks like it does! I'm going to replace the random assortment of small black bits with 1x1 black cheese wedges (mainly so I can use all the other bits more usefully), but they haven't arrived yet. General shots on the railway. Next up the freight wagons for her to pull. I've just ordered the bits for the brakevan, so look out for that in the next couple of weeks hopefully. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
garethjellis Posted September 22, 2014 This is a fun design! I see that you have a FBF wheel configuration. How well does this negotiate switches / points? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScotNick Posted September 22, 2014 Nice, I really like how this engine looks finished. Will you apply stickers? You should definitely upload pictures of the MK I coaches Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redimus Posted September 22, 2014 (edited) garethjellis: It's at the *very limit* of what's practical on standard Lego points. Most of the time it's fine, although on one set of points (directly after a curve) it does audibly hit the checkrail although shows no sign of actually wanting to come off. The bigger problem is that on any form of incline, the connection between the tender and the loco is too stiff in the x axis, which means the rather long loco tends to lift the motor section very slightly off the track, reducing both the power getting to it and the traction it is able to deploy to the rails. I've got some ideas on how to fix that, but it'll have to wait until I do a odds n sods order as I don't currently have the bits to do it. ScotNick: I need to research where best to get stickers and how best to design the, but I would like to eventually. And yeah, I can't believe I haven't done a more detailed set of photos for the Mk0.5s yet (I refuse to call em Mk1s because there's too many liberties taken!). Also, I had to cheat on the connecting rods. The link that connects the two halves has bluetack on the pin to stop it sagging. Somehow didn't occour to me that using a frictionless pin for that would be a problem until I actually tried it! Edited September 22, 2014 by Redimus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_spock Posted September 22, 2014 Nice work. Maybe a U-joint for the connection between loco and tender? Looks like you're using Technic axle and connectors in the pictures. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redimus Posted September 22, 2014 It's a possibility I'm considering (if my other ideas don't work). My problems with that option are the colour (light grey will really stand out on a model that is mostly black) and the additional length between the tender and the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_spock Posted September 22, 2014 Maybe one of these in black. And two of these connect to. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zephyr1934 Posted September 23, 2014 Oh wow, she looks great all together. Fantastic build. Also, I had to cheat on the connecting rods. The link that connects the two halves has bluetack on the pin to stop it sagging. Somehow didn't occour to me that using a frictionless pin for that would be a problem until I actually tried it! I had no idea what you were going for with the rods. I can do all sorts of strange configurations with the rods, e.g., If you want custom configurations just contact me via PM here or bricklink messages. Nice work. Maybe a U-joint for the connection between loco and tender? Looks like you're using Technic axle and connectors in the pictures. Since the tender pushes the locomotive there are no worries about drawbar strength (otherwise, some technic pin construction might be better). However, to keep it black, you might be able to use a pair of these: In any event, keep up the great work! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redimus Posted September 23, 2014 dr_spock: The rod is basically a slightly longer one piece version of the solution I'm currently using. I've concidered the ball coupling idea, and it has merit, I'm just not sure how I'd get it to fit in the limited space (will have to have a play on LDD) zephyr1934: I did consider it seeing what you could do, but seeing as that rod configuration is actually not far from being prototypical (it's just two rods, not two rods and a connector in real life), I didn't see the need to add extra expense and time to the build. Despite the little cheat, I'm actually rather happy with the result. Those Technic pieces may well be the answer if my first solution doesn't work (and I can't get dr_spock's suggestion to go anywhere), I've got a couple of ideas on how I could use em, I'll give that a go too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cgarison Posted September 25, 2014 Really great work on the MOC. I love the 7 wide frame on this model and the boiler really came out very well. And I really like Dr. Spock's ball joint idea to make my overall steam locomotive more flexible for moving around turns. Now that I have converted the 4-4-0 style Ghost Train MOC into a 4-6-0, I am looking for a way to modify the articulated joint on the front of my train in a way to reduce the bulk mess of the joint that I currently have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
