Long Steam Locomotives (x-8-x) and Regular Curve Track

[LEGO Guy Bri]

Since the Train Tech Questions thread is on the downslope, I thought I'd go on and start up a brief discussion regarding a potential problem regarding larger steam locomotives.

I have a couple 10194 E. Nights that I would like to combine to make a larger steam loco, along the lines of a x-8-x set up. My questions are, how does this type set of wheel setup handle regular curves and switch points? And if this is a problem, is there a solution, or just something I will have to deal with? I cannot test this as all of my track and spare E. Night are buried in storage.

A side note: I would like to have each set of wheels attached to the same rods. I am more concerned about the aesthetics rather than it's ability to run on a curve, if it comes down to that.

Any advice is appreciated!

[SavaTheAggie]

So long as you stick with a Flanged-Blind-Flanged-Blind setup (or the reverse), a x-8-x setup using medium, large, or XL drivers have no issues taking corners and points.

The real issue comes in 1) getting the lead and rear trucks to negotiate around the pistons and the drivers themselves and 2) extra long locomotives hanging over too much in curves.

I would suggest starting with a 2-8-2 or 2-8-4 arrangement at first to get your feet wet. Once you feel comfortable there move on to more complex 4-8-4s and the like.

Feel free to browse my gallery if you want to see some arrangements that are fully track compatible:

http://www.flickr.co...57600864043419/

--Tony

[roamingstop]

Or buy some of Sava's Excellent Instructions. He has a massive amount of knowledge and design and is a worthy master and teacher!

[Electricsteam]

I have made a very nice systen using the smallest of the flanged lego wheels. I based it off an old G scale steam set I had as Teen. I'll take a picture of the train and the thing I built I may have not made it first but I did not copy from anyone or anything that I know of.

[Duq]

My 1'D2' (or 2-8-4 in American) has flange/blind/blind/flange and will run on regular Lego curves:

BR65 Turn by Duq, on Flickr

Edited December 1, 2012 by Duq

[Electricsteam]

Has anyone tried at making ?-12-? or ?-10-? or ?-8 + 8-2 + 8-2 basicly 2-8-8-8-2 The Triplex dream

[Frank STENGEL]

Well, there are a couple of big boys chugging along in the train tech forum. SavaTheAggie has found very interesting techniques for articulating the wheel base while keeping the boiler straight; look at his flikr stream (especially his

Allegheny class 2-6-6-6)

...

[Duq]

Lego 12V built a BR94 which is a 0-10-0. I can't think of any x-12-x prototypes...

[zephyr1934]

There are a surprising large number of x-10-x locomotives out there. I would assume most use two pairs of flanged and three pairs of blind drivers. I've seen a few GG1's and other electrics that wind up having four independent sets of wheels under one body. Shuppiluliumas has some crazy large engines, including a 4-12-2 and a 2-10-10-2

My #1 rule for building a steam engine is to get the mechanicals worked out first. So actually physically build up the wheels, cylinders, and any connection points. Test, revise, and repeat as many times as necessary until you get it working satisfactorily. It is a lot easier to redesign when you only have the wheels built up. At this stage you are concerned with clearance and strength, so if you wind up using parts of the wrong color or that have a few extra studs in spots that don't matter, that is not a problem.

[LEGO Guy Bri]

Many thanks for the replies everyone, you have all been very helpful. I am quite familiar with Sava and Duq's great looking engines. I am happy to hear x-8-x's are able to navigate regular tracks. I've dreamt of building a Big Boy but, that may be way in the future if at all. I really hope to get started on this E. Night project now that I have my answer ( and find my E. Night). I'm going to save this in my profile's Train Tech. Thanks again!