[RFC] Need to learn how to build good bodywork

[miguev]

Hi,

I'm sharing yet another failed project, because we learn more from failures than from success, and I value your feedback, suggestions, criticism, irony and sarcasm

I expect no more progress here, but to take this apart and maybe try again some day, hence the [RFC] (Request For Comments) instead of [WIP] tag.

With Sheepo's great Modular All-terrain Platform, I thought I'd try my hand at mid-scale bodywork, for the first time ever, on a good working chassis. I chose a body with few curves, thinking it'd be easier: Nissan Patrol 260 Series. I have some fond memories of my uncle's Patrol and would love to show this off to my cousin... some day.

I had some trouble with Sariel's scaler, not all numbers rendered well and some lines were truncated, so this screenshot may be more confusing than helpful, but it shows a key thing: an even body width of 16 studs.

This width worked pretty well with the grille and headlights, and that was about all I could get more or less right.

I completely messed up the front part of the sides (front mudguards, etc.) did rather poorly on the doors, never quite figured out the rear of the sides and didn't even try with the rear of the body. The limit of 2.5 studs with on the sides of the body felt quite restrictive to me.

I think I should read a lot more before trying to write, that is build many good bodywork to learn from them, before again to build my own.

On that line, what MOCs / sets / builders would you recommend me? Would it be "enough" to read the instructions carefully or should I really build them?

Here are all the photos I have of this failed bodywork:

[Teo LEGO Technic]

I think you should try going through the instructions of something like the 8258 crane truck, or the 8070 for inspiration. Also, for mudguards, it's best to use the curved liftarms or curved connectors

[Jeroen Ottens]

Hi,

First of all I think you are a bit too critical for yourself. I have seen bodyworks with way more upwards potential on this forum. A straight body is also probably not the easiest form to capture. That may sound a bit counterintutive, but it rules out almost all the panels from using, giving you a very limited partbase to start with.

For good examples of straight bodywork I'd recommend:

rm8's variants of the FJ40 Toyota: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=103380

Madoca's offroad pickup: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=101665

Sheepo's landrover: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=69577

Using connectors to break the monotony of stacked beams is one of the tricks that you could add to your model

[piterx]

to me the only problem you're having here is that not every car is suitable to be made out of legos...

i mean, when i build something the most of the time is spent on checking what i can actually build.

Some cars are perfect in one size and are crap in a different one mainly because of proportion between real parts and lego parts wich just dont fit at some scales...

for example, i've built a suzuki vitara and a suzuki samurai in two different scales, but they shared the same door panel...

it's all about WHAT can be done at WICH scale

Edited April 14, 2015 by piterx

[__________________________]

to me the only problem you're having here is that not every car is suitable to be made out of legos...

i mean, when i build something the most of the time is spent on checking what i can actually build.

Some cars are perfect in one size and are crap in a different one mainly because of proportion between real parts and lego parts wich just dont fit at some scales...

for example, i've built a suzuki vitara and a suzuki samurai in two different scales, but they shared the same door panel...

it's all about WHAT can be done at WICH scale

i agree with piterx. your model could, however, use more work around the mudguards.

[veryrusty]

I really like it. I would keep going. I don't think at the end you will end up with something that is unmistakably a Nissan Patrol, but i think that it more about the generic nature of the nissan. Doing so in a mid scale is going to be even harder. Keep trying, then modify and keep trying.

[Rishab N]

I also think you're being a bit harsh on yourself. It honestly doesn't look too bad Improvement will come over time

I need to take my own advice I'm too impatient and rush models

[DrJB]

In all honesty, I am not sure everyone can be good at doing body work. The stylists with the auto-makers are paid large amounts of $$$ for a reason. There are few artists, but the rest of us are engineers.

This reminds me of my dentist a while back who said (speaking of his young/charming assistant). There is a fundamental difference between men and women. Men say 'Make sure it works', whereas women say 'Make it beautiful'.

Not to start a gender debate though...

That said, and back on topic. There are those who try to mimic every shape/line/contour of a reference vehicle, and the MOC ends up being full of panels and tiles. I, however, prefer the 'clean' look of the 8448. It's not overwhelming, yet the main lines of the car are captured with few flex axles.

Edited April 15, 2015 by DrJB

[Kiwi_Builder]

Doesn't look too bad but off topic a little bit, can you show us some photos of the chassis and drivetrain? I am interested in learning what the technique you used for the axles is and seeing how it works.

[miguev]

Thank you guys for your recommendations, I'm already seeing some tricks I should try, from the Toyota FJ40 and the Landrover, still haven't finished reading 8258 instructions... any more recommendations? Please keep them coming! I wish I could look at some of piterx's cars more closely, at least I'll try looking at bodies more carefully. And paying more attention to the feasibility of each build beforehand, that's a really good point.

For more details about the chassis, axles, etc. please see Sheepo's Modular All-terrain Platform.