1427 replies to this topic

[tripletschiee]

chaosof99, on 28 July 2011 - 09:08 AM, said:

That looks great, but I agree that it should be a bit bigger. Also, shouldn't the "smooth" surface of the panel be on the inside looking at the spiral?

Yeah, why not! This thing is just a first draft! So there is plenty of room for improvement.
E.g.:
- I used a 32 axle for the blades. This is way to wide. So I have to finde a way to have it shortened (except cutting the axle).
- When lifting up the whol snowblower the drive-train will touch the pneumatic-cylinder. That is also not good...
- the whole lifting mchanism is pretty soft (it twists a lot). So that has also to be improved
- ...  

efferman, on 27 July 2011 - 05:14 PM, said:

Hi guys, i have a silly question:
i know that the cab of the 8110 is with mudguards 21 studs wide, but how wide is the width at the tires?

The tires itself are standing approximately 1 till 1.5 studs over the mud defender on each side. So the width at the wheel-base is something between 23 and 24 studs.

Regards,
Gerhard

Edited by tripletschiee, 28 July 2011 - 10:12 AM.

[chaosof99]

tripletschiee, on 28 July 2011 - 10:09 AM, said:

Yeah, why not! This thing is just a first draft! So there is plenty of room for improvement.
E.g.:
- I used a 32 axle for the blades. This is way to wide. So I have to finde a way to have it shortened (except cutting the axle).
Regards,
Gerhard

Somewhat related, maybe you could take the design of the snowblower and perhaps turn it into the head of a combine harvester? Would also make good use of the length.
In fact, that's what I thought it was before reading the thread. "Why does a Unimog got a combine harvester head on it?" :)

[efferman]

Nazgarot, on 28 July 2011 - 08:58 AM, said:

(15 stud + (2x (34mm/8mm/stud)) = 15 stud + (2x 4,25stud) = 23,5 stud.

tripletschiee, on 28 July 2011 - 10:09 AM, said:

The tires itself are standing approximately 1 till 1.5 studs over the mud defender on each side. So the width at the wheel-base is something between 23 and 24 studs.

Thanks guys, now amazon must only send me my two mogs :cant wait:

[jorgeopesi]

My failed attempt, 2 steering axles and 2 pneumatic valves for control the 2 gears gearbox or the back or front pto. The moc is too heavy for the rc motor but it works on first gear...

Edited by jorgeopesi, 30 July 2011 - 10:03 AM.

[efferman]

I have done some little modifications.
Cab and platform now have the same width with the chassis

The platform is now 2 studs longer and 4 studs wider

the widening gives me the possibility to remove the 3/4 pins without chassis/Tire colliding

The Cab has now a locking mechanism

[RemcoTec]

[efferman]

Does it better work with the airtanks?

[RemcoTec]

YES... and more power.....

[davidmull]

I like ur plough it looks nice in yellow.did anyone attempt a motor on the engine yet to drive the mog?

[Josh The Geek]

davidmull, on 31 July 2011 - 05:50 PM, said:

I like ur plough it looks nice in yellow.did anyone attempt a motor on the engine yet to drive the mog?

The motorization discussion is here: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=57167 , but I don't know if anyone has yet.

[Henkl]

Hi, everybody.
My Unimog arrives next week but I have a question.
Would it possible to make the longer Unimog version and place the crane behind the cab so the platform cab lift?

@efferman
Your Unimog is super with the wider cab and platform.

[efferman]

Henkl, on 31 July 2011 - 06:45 PM, said:

Hi, everybody.
My Unimog arrives next week but I have a question.
Would it possible to make the longer Unimog version and place the crane behind the cab so the platform cab lift?

@efferman
Your Unimog is super with the wider cab and platform.

Thanks!
I think the version with long wheelbase should be no problem. and for a tilting platform is enough space

[jorgeopesi]

Josh The Geek, on 31 July 2011 - 06:12 PM, said:

The motorization discussion is here: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=57167 , but I don't know if anyone has yet.

One page back there are photos of my motorization unimog...

I finish my mod unimog and it works perfectly I hope you like.





Unimog video

Edited by jorgeopesi, 01 August 2011 - 09:46 PM.

[efferman]

the original 8110 is imho not right equipped for attachments so i must going deeper with my modifications.
the mechanical PTOs getting their own motors. one for the front and one for the rear PTO. controlled from the left and right side of the vehicle


The rear end gets 2 pneumatic connectors to control a cylinder without external valve, the front four to control two cylinders


more will come...

[davidmull]

I think Lego did a great job,not sure why u think it needs separate motors for the pto,s

[LegoTechnic]

After modding any of your technic sets. Do any of you reuse the motors, receivers, etc....or do you leave them in the model set and buy more stuff for the next mod?

[Nazgarot]

LegoTechnic, on 05 August 2011 - 01:04 AM, said:

After modding any of your technic sets. Do any of you reuse the motors, receivers, etc....or do you leave them in the model set and buy more stuff for the next mod?

Both. If the model is really epic, like the 8043 excavator is in my opinion I leave the RC stuff inn it. If not i reuse them, and all the other parts. Often i will buy additional sets just for the parts, especially sets with RC part. But of course I'm on a rather big budget with about € 1500 to buy pats/sets for each year. The last three months I've spent about € 1000 on Bricklink, building up stock for MOC's for the 8110 and a couple of other large MOC's (I'm probably not going to tear them down anytime soon, so I need extra parts). So my answer is probably not the most accurate for the larger mass.

[LegoTechnic]

Nazgarot, on 05 August 2011 - 02:02 AM, said:

Both. If the model is really epic, like the 8043 excavator is in my opinion I leave the RC stuff inn it. If not i reuse them, and all the other parts. Often i will buy additional sets just for the parts, especially sets with RC part. But of course I'm on a rather big budget with about € 1500 to buy pats/sets for each year. The last three months I've spent about € 1000 on Bricklink, building up stock for MOC's for the 8110 and a couple of other large MOC's (I'm probably not going to tear them down anytime soon, so I need extra parts). So my answer is probably not the most accurate for the larger mass.

Thank You. That does help. I agree. The 8043 deserves to keep the parts in with such a demanding rebuild. As of right now I am doing the 8052 mod. Simple compared to the other bigger sets. I will probably reuse the motors for another set like the 8043 or 8110.

[efferman]

davidmull, on 04 August 2011 - 11:26 PM, said:

I think Lego did a great job,not sure why u think it needs separate motors for the pto,s

realism

[Badger]

i have made 2 attachments , an auger and a mower . pic

Edited by Badger, 05 August 2011 - 12:00 PM.

[JunkstyleGio]

Looks nice, but can you post more pictures?
And maybe a movie so we can see you attachments at work...

[Badger]

JunkstyleGio, on 05 August 2011 - 12:48 PM, said:

Looks nice, but can you post more pictures?
And maybe a movie so we can see you attachments at work...

i will take more photos later , i took loads but they came out blurey

[efferman]

Next lot of pictures
Changed positions of the panhard rods to get a better axle movement




modified frame to get enough space for the front PTO motor

gear reduction for the steering

Front bumper with pneumatic connectors

more will come

[Denny]

Here my Unimog RC + 28 LED´S!! WIP!!











Video:

Edited by Denny, 14 August 2011 - 11:46 AM.

[Routemaster]

Hi all you Unimog Drivers  

I implemented a solution for a better steering of the Unimog.
Steering works way better now.

Happy Building!
Ralph