MightySlickPancake

Narrow gauge trains

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traintech1.jpg

Hi, recently i was looking around brickshelf and i saw http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=371934 those designs and an article in a model railway magazine inspired me to make my own train http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=425083.

I am very happy with the train, so happy in fact it will have a static part in my layout. The design took between 5-10 minutes and uses the most basic pieces.

Now i ask you have ever made a narrow gauge loco, if not why not? Narrow gauge locomotives are in nearly every country in the world ranging from industrial duties to passanger trains in the tops of mountains so the possibilaties are endless.

I hope this encourages some one to make a small train.

thanks,cb

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The main issue are the curves. With the 4.5V / 12V straight tracks, it's easy to build narrow gauge straight tracks, as you showed. This is not possible for curved tracks, making it impossible to create a layout.

The new Indiana Jones mine track features new narrow gauge curves. Straight tracks have not been released yet.

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I wonder if it's possible to just make O-Gauge trucks compatible with LEGO.

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I do agree 'Richie' the curves are quite hard but i found a page on brickshelf that solves the problem http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=386538. Although i havn't checked it for myself i think i would work, but if it does then the only other things are the switching points that need to be sorted.

@ 'fred67' I'm think i understand what you mean and it would be possible, but thats the challange with lego rying to make it look right.

thanks,cb

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While I was building this VR B Class loco, I was able to make a freestanding (i.e. not on baseplates), irregular loop of track with 3 studs between the rails. The curved rails were slightly stressed when placed 3 studs apart, but not overly, and with judicious positioning of curves and straights it was fairly easy to create a loop without inducing any further stress. As you note, the real challenge is the points...

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Interesting topic. I was recently working with the Indy mine tracks which offer additional opportunity for a narrow gauge track (as Richie mentions above). I was trying to attach some straight track pieces from the Drarves Mine and was unsuccessful. It would be nice if LEGO either offered curved tracks pieces again (from the 12V era) or made some straight track in narrow gauge. Without either, it's difficult to make that narrow gauge line.

I have been wanting to make a small mining train for a long time now.

While I was building this VR B Class loco

Beautiful engine Sruff! :wub:

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Thanks guys, I'm glad other people find it interesting. Also what i forgot to say was that with the 12v tracks there is a slight amount you can turn to make small angle. So no curves need to change direction.

But 'The Brickster' we can always live in hope that lego will make straight narrow gauge track.

@ 'scruffulous' what a great engine :thumbup: , definatly shows the great side of narrow gauge.

Thanks, cb

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Could narrow gauge points be made from sliding tracks as seen in transfers for narrow gauge / funiculars around the world?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Railway_switch (for some narrow gauge switches)

http://www.pbase.com/19sweetcorn92/image/65033986

A unique solution I read about on the Pilatus Railway uses curved track which rotates around the direction of travel. It has two sets of curves - one on top and the other underneath exactly mirrored. The points work by rotating the track to either a left hand curve - or a right hand curve.

After 20 mins of searching I cannot find the link or photo - but I do remember it was used for a cog / rack railway somewhere in Europe - probably Switzerland. Actually 1 hour later I remembered where it was, which is why I did the edit.

Pilatus Mountain Railway with particular reference to Pilatus Rotary Switch

Edited by roamingstudio

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I, for one, have built two Narrow Gauge Engines. You can see one of them by clicking on the link by my signature.

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I have taken the opposite approach and use standard 9V track but build to a larger scale to make narrow gauge trains

Nice design Tim. Thanks for sharing. I love these types of trains.

---

On a side note, it looks like the new City Advent calendar will have a small narrow gauge/mini train. Are any of you interested in this set for the train?

holidaynarrowgauge.jpg

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After seeing some nice narrow gauge trains in Wales I would definitely like to build something. Not sure when I'll find the time though....

4641211645_411c8280d5.jpg

Edited by Duq

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After seeing some nice narrow gauge trains in Wales I would definitely like to build something. Not sure when I'll find the time though....

4641211645_411c8280d5.jpg

A double Fairlie has been on my long term to-do list for a while

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I've built a couple of narrow gauge locomotives but as you mentioned the problem is track. Which is a great pity as all the real life trains around here are narrow gauge so it looks like I'll be raiding Bricklink and Ebay for old track!! I have tried to make a narrow gauge stretch of track by putting 2 RC straights side by side to create a 4 stud wide track (and then "brick over" the other tracks but I don't think that'd work on the curves (I can't try as I only own 2 bits of straight track at the moment!!) Anyway, I've got a few narrow gauge projects in mind so I'd be interested in other people's ideas... the one's in this thread already have been very useful...

Cheers

Greg

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There is a way to make straight Indiana track using a technique similar to BS Yoto. I have a prototype )sorry for bad colours; I only had a oil tanker to hand)... better colours and parts will come from some new BL orders...

There is a small vertical gap between the normal Indiana track and the perpendicular tiles... (less than 1mm) and to be honest a minor modification (cutting) would probably make the joints much easier. The test trucks run over this without a derailing problem. However there is a slightly illegal build and specifically tension at the top join to the indy track... I'm slowly figuring out a solution but have full time day job...

Im also trying to resolve a set of switches (points). Some more pieces to try in the coming weeks.

Question 1: What sized wheels do people use for most MOC's? I have been testing with Big Bens Medium and Lego small wheels with axle holes which seems to work ok.

Question 2: How common were outer frame Narrow Gauge trains? (Overrunners). There are some good MOC's out there which could look good on the Indiana track...

Edited by roamingstudio

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That's quiet a design 'roamingstudio' keep up the good work :thumbup: . You said you used Big Ben Medium sized and I think you ment these,which i use. I found these the most effective and easiest to use. Good luck with all your narrow gauge projects every one :tongue: .

Thanks,CB

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That's quiet a design.... keep up the good work :thumbup: . .

Thanks,CB

I have made some further improvements to the stability of the connections to the track; but no photos yet as I was at a Company Event this evening. It seems sleepers will need to be 7 wide to accommodate the necessary plate spacing... 6 wide without the double plate onto the tile is too narrow... Still working on a more low profile design.

Making working points is not easy. The 1x1x10 curved slope elements (recently found in the sea plane and Atlantis shark) have (almost) the same curvature as the inside rail of the Indiana track... as do the 1x1x4 curved slopes. However finding something for the outer curvature is not easy; and probably needs a series of 1x1x2 flat tiles mounted onto 1x1x2 plate modified with fingers. Similarly making right or left point set requires a 45 degree radius to allow easy matching to the curved indiana track.

If using outer framed engines (Scruffulous) then it might be possible to mount two sets of flanged wheels back to back... and then provide a second inner track for the curved elements (similar to cable funiculars in Switzerland). But this really limits the space.

Some more ideas to come out at the weekend...

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New parts from Bricklink arrived; and the original design of BS Yoto works perfectly.

For the connection to the existing track you need a 1x2 tile with stud to correctly offset the bracket. The new straight track can then fit standard stud spacing.

Normal brackets can hold the track in place. Unlike my previous solution there is no height difference between the rails and 4 Emerald Night wheels mounted into two 1x8 technic bricks run smoothly over the joints.

Cross overs are slightly trickier - but also feasible. As for the points... still work in progress.

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As for the points... still work in progress.

Sounds interesting. I couldn't think of a way to build them so far. Hope you will find a solution. :)

If you are interested, I finished my working narrow gauge train today.

4755839898_d60e8df405_m.jpg

The technic axle is directly connected to a PF motor.

4755841352_70bd3aa2ca.jpg

For the curves I'd rather use the technique by Ross Neal.

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Sounds interesting. I couldn't think of a way to build them so far. Hope you will find a solution. :)

For the curves I'd rather use the technique by Ross Neal.

Really nice solution....

I need to come back to the solution - summer finally arrived and lots of evenings are spent swimming, and with full time job it means little time for designing... but I did make some progress and will report it later. I really like your bogey design... and was heading in the same direction before the summer pause.

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And yes i am interested, thats an impressive train "Space2310" especially as its a narrow gaugue train. You should make a new topic for it. I will have to steal some parts of this design if you dont mind. Hope you do more like this as its great.

Thanks, CB

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Actually I wonder whether replacing the top section of the bogey (the axles and pins) with one or two stacked 2x6 technic plates with holes, and tiles for surroundings? This might enable better side plate design for improved greebling. Need to find time... weather too nice.

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And yes i am interested, thats an impressive train "Space2310" especially as its a narrow gaugue train. You should make a new topic for it. I will have to steal some parts of this design if you dont mind. Hope you do more like this as its great.

Thanks, CB

Thank you! I don't mind if you use some techniques, that's actually why I posted the bogie ;)

As I have a flickr and MOCpages account, I don't want to get too involved here though. I'm mainly here for reading :P

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