anothergol Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) Hi, I need the most compact (flat, thus no Technics) turntable with friction, and I don't really know what my choices are, as I've never met a 4x4 turntable with friction and/or snap. I do own a 61485 plate, but when you put a 4x4 round plate on it, there is no friction. I see about the 3403c01, which may be an old piece, but seems to exist in more colors, including the one I'd need (blue). Does this one have friction, and is it snapped? And is the round piece a 3/3 brick, or a 2/3 one? According to the digital designer, it would be 2/3, making the whole assembly 3/3. 61485c02 seems to be the way the 61485 is to be used for friction/snap(?), but then the round piece is a 3/3 brick. ..and it's already replaced by 87081c01? Too many choices. So there would be no recent turntable with friction/snap that all fits in 3/3? Thanks Edit: I'm starting to understand that round brick 87081 has those ticks that help snapping with the turntable base, so I assume that the base + the round brick end up as a 4/3 snapping turntable. Question is, does the old 3403c01 snap too? Comes in more colors, and it's a bit more compact. Edited June 28, 2015 by anothergol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nth_Brick Posted June 28, 2015 I actually have a little bit of experience with this, as I was trying recently to make a couple of small-scale turrets for a starship. As far as formal turntables go (the ones specifically manufactured by LEGO as turntables), I don't think I can help you beyond what you already know. However, I can suggest using jumper plates, like the 2x2 w/ single stud or 1x2 w/ single stud. You could even just attach whatever needs to be rotated to a single stud inset to the build. The one problem with this, though, is it might a little more fragile/finicky than you want to deal with. Do you mind saying what you're trying to MOC? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
anothergol Posted June 28, 2015 It's for this ship, so yeah it'd have to be sturdy enough I'm afraid. The reason I need them flat enough is that I have no room in the body to hold them, there's a light brick and an engine as the cockpit will be motorized (chances are that it's gonna go very wrong). It works well as is, but it would be a pity not to have those boosters rotatable. But it looks better with them closer to the body. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nth_Brick Posted June 29, 2015 For one thing, I must say, that is one great looking ship, and the rotating engines would definitely add to the look/functionality. I'm afraid I don't know of anything besides the click turntables that would yield that effect, and you're right, jumper plates would be nowhere near sturdy enough. I'm pretty sure that there is a form of 4x4 round plate that works in conjunction with 61485 that does click, but I'm forgetting which sets, if any, that it appears in. You could attempt to SNOT in an assembly sort of like the one in the Republic Fighter Tank 7679 (see here: http://brickset.com/sets/7679-1/Republic-Fighter-Tank), however that risks possible design destabilization. It could work, though, and that would give you friction, but no locked positions. Sorry if this hasn't been too terribly helpful, but I hope I was able to at least lend a few ideas. If you don't mind me asking though, on an unrelated note, how exactly are you planning to motorize the cockpit? Don't get me wrong, it would look very cool, but I've never seen motorization of LEGO on that small a scale before. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
anothergol Posted June 29, 2015 (edited) I use the motor that lego puts in choppers, to lift up minifigs, 61100c01. It's a friction motor with a twist, it's not made for cars. Of course, it will be 1-way, only to close the cockpit, as you wind up the motor by opening it. I've made some testing, it worked, but you never know, maybe the final weight will be too much, maybe things won't align & slide in properly.. Lego has only used it for lifting stuff, but it's definitely usable for doors in general. The trick is to pre-wind up the motor *a little* before assembling it, so that it will go back to fully close the thing. Without that, it may stop a little before, because it's snapped. Edited June 29, 2015 by anothergol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rodiziorobs Posted June 30, 2015 (edited) Those blue curved pieces at the front have a counterpart, which has holes in the base for a technic pin. If you were able to use that part instead, you could maybe use this kind of technic axle with stud to create friction, similar to Metalbeard's waist connection. (Download instructions here, see pages 29-30) I believe you could hide everything inside the hull. Then there would be those studs to worry about, though... Great looking ship, by the way. Edited June 30, 2015 by rodiziorobs Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
anothergol Posted June 30, 2015 Those blue curved pieces at the front have a counterpart, which has holes in the base for a technic pin. Yeah, I've seen that (I use that part at the bottom of the tail btw), but I have no way to attach them this way, plus the hole wouldn't be at the right place I'm afraid :( Yeah I do own metalbeard, it indeed uses an axle on its waist. I'm also using an (well, 2) axle+stud to hold what's inside the thrusters btw, because passing a long axle through it all is way too wobbly & I found no better way to stabilize the rockets at the back of the thrusters. So I have to choose between fragile & wobbly apparently. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
anothergol Posted July 3, 2015 (edited) for those who are interested, I've just received the parts, and: -the old 1/3 + 2/3 assembly has NO friction/snap (well, still enough so it can't be used for things like propellers), and is pretty much the same as today's 1/3 + 1/3 assembly -today's 1/3 + 3/3 assembly DOES have friction/snap, no wobbliness in the rotation, very slight wobbliness vertically. But interestingly, it has no reason to be this thick, the snap is done by 2 extra bumps that could as well be in a 1/3 round plate. Most likely Lego wanted to avoid confusion, but I still think that 3/3 is too thick for something that's just a turntable. -there is no compatibility between old & new turntable bases/round plates Edited July 3, 2015 by anothergol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
anothergol Posted August 16, 2015 I've finally made pics of this MOC I had finished weeks ago. I eventually went for the rotary assemblies, works well. And the "motorized" cockpit works well as well, I should make a video, even though it's a fast & short anim. Yeah, the 61100c01 motor -can- be used for doors & stuff. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/417995 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rodiziorobs Posted August 16, 2015 Woah! It looked good in LDD, but it looks superb in actual bricks. Well done, glad you got the technical issues resolved. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
