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I have limited room with which to build my layout and am trying to cram as many features into as small a space as possible. To this end I wondered if anyone knows of the most space-efficient way to create a reversing track loop. I found this in an old topic, but is this the smallest possible build?

reversing%20loop.jpg

Edited by Kumata

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I think the only way to get it smaller, is with Flextracks - but they simply suck.. :-/

If you get some speed on it, consider adding 1 plate on the outside of the loop, so it slopes inwards, leaning the train towards the middle, that helps a bit.

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You are right talking about the radius (well, actually you can achieve a slightly smaller radius with flex track) but maybe you could save one straight rail in lenght. BUT as marook said, the flex track have a lot of disadvantages, like beeing louder and having more friction.

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Flex track can only create a bigger loop, not smaller.

That sounds strange.. My flextracks can make a circle with R26.

For reference, LEGO® standard curve track measures R40.

Please note, that curve sizes are based upon the radius of a complete circle measured, in "LEGO® studs", from the center of the circle to the center of the completed track.

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That sounds strange.. My flextracks can make a circle with R26.

For reference, LEGO® standard curve track measures R40.

Please note, that curve sizes are based upon the radius of a complete circle measured, in "LEGO® studs", from the center of the circle to the center of the completed track.

Maybe I'm wrong then. Still, I would never recommend something smaller than R40. R40 isn't large enough as it is. You'd have to really slow it down for a smaller radius.

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Maybe I'm wrong then. Still, I would never recommend something smaller than R40. R40 isn't large enough as it is. You'd have to really slow it down for a smaller radius.

Absolutely - so narrow curves is not much fun.. ;-)

My Horizon Express tips over in the curve at full speed on the R40 curve, even though I have it raised/tilted by two plates on the outside..

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Try the Inglenook Sidings design -- and use a small oval as the mainline. That fits is a 3 x 4 baseplate space, and many hours of entertainment, especially if you build decouplers.

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Maybe you should think of the way you make your loop considering the length of your longest train.. my Horizon Express would hit its tail in this loop.... :wink:

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Iv lately built a nice double loop layout on a single bed size 6x3. Iv just managed to fit it but it works great on a limited space.

BBF4CFD0-CEBB-4427-BEC4-91EFBBAC1389.jpg

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Sorry, I meant to make clear, I was talking about a reversing loop specifically. I guess flexi track sounds like my best option.

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On 5/4/2015 at 1:34 AM, MusicaRibelle said:

Try the Inglenook Sidings design -- and use a small oval as the mainline. That fits is a 3 x 4 baseplate space, and many hours of entertainment, especially if you build decouplers.

The last few weeks I have been searching examples of inglenook puzzle layouts. Do I understand it right that it's possible to install it on 3 times 4 baseplates (32x32)? I'm using blue era rails (4,5 V). I tried tot make what you wrote on BlueBrick but it didn't work. I have to make the sidings inside the loop and that seems not possible. Am I missing something?  

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Inglenook layout sizes are a function of how long your rolling stock is.

in 4.5v era, that’s about 16 studs or a piece of track. Though the loco will be twice that because of the battery box car.

A regular inglenook has siding lengths of 4, 4 and 5 cars. A smaller inglenook with siding lengths of 2, 2 and 3 is still operationally satisfactory at L-Gauge size. The headshunt length is short siding length plus loco length.

This means a small inglenook layout would need only two straights on the short sidings.

4.5v point geometry means your sidings won’t diverge, and as you’ve discovered, won’t fit inside a minimum size circle. 

This gives three options.

-without loop, a 4.5v inglenook layout would be 1baseplate/10in/25.4cm wide (since points don’t diverge) and 5bp/50in/127cm long (short siding length plus point length plus point length plus headshunt length)

-with loop, points outside, a basic loop is 3bp/76.2cm/30in square. You need to add another baseplate in length to fit points in and half a baseplate in width. This means an inglenook with outside sidings, needs 4bp/101.6cm/40in by 3.5bp/88.9cm/35in space.

-with loop points inside adds a straight after the points on the loop and makes the inside sidings curved. The dimensions of this setup would be 4.5bp x 3bp.

Edited by Chromeknight

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