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Phoxtane

How big for a standard Lego-scale tunnel?

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I haven't found too many details about this, so I figured I'd ask. If I was to build a train tunnel that'd take something along the size of the Santa Fe Super Chief, how big would the tunnel have to be in order to fit it? Obviously it'll have to be at least the width of the track wide, but I'm looking for how much I'd need in terms of space on either side and most importantly, height.

The people I know aren't being very helpful either:

<Phoxtane> I need to figure out what size is a 'standard' train tunnel
<Phoxtane> for lego trains that is
<Mosai> it is roughly 1 train tall
<Phoxtane> how wide
<Mosai> roughly 1 train wide
<Phoxtane> mmm
<Phoxtane> how long?
<Mosai> however long a train is along its z axis
<Phoxtane> I thought Z was height
<Mosai> z is depth

I also know that the Super Chief is quite a bit larger than the typical cargo train, but I figured if the tunnel was big enough to admit that, it'd be big enough for practically anything that runs on standard Lego track.

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If the tunnel entrance/exit is on straight track then the tunnel should ideally be at leadt 2 studs wider than the width of the train going through it- a 6 wide train needs an 8 wide tunnel, an 8 wide train a 10 wide tunnel and so on. As for height, a brick or two more than the train on track.

If the track is curving going in to the tunnel you need to allow more clearance beside the track.

If you're building for real rather than LDD just keep a coach handy as you build and test clearance as you go.

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I use this as my basis:

8088558968_996d012c62_z.jpg

It is 12 2/3 bricks tall, and 12 studs wide at the portal. My father measured all the 9V locomotives he has and came up with this number in 1999 / 2000. It allows for the AT&SF Super Chief and even sets like this one (below) with ease and room to spare.

10014-1.jpg?0

LDD file (has both single and double tracks): http://www.mocpages....1343930750m.lxf

Hope this helps!

Edited by Murdoch17

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Given the responses here, this is what I've come up with:

640x348.jpg

640x348.jpg

Thanks to the magic of physicsless modeling, I can just show off the portal; obviously I'll have to do the inside as well, but as long as I stick to these dimensions it ought to be okay - assuming there's no issues that anyone can spot offhand?

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This is what the final tunnel will end up looking like:

800x435.jpg

It can be extended to practically any length I'd like, and all I have to do is build corresponding tunnel supports on each side of the tracks to support the 12-wide arches. Thing is, I don't think I like it... it feels so boring to me, and I'm not sure why. That, and those arches are expensive on Bricklink. I don't know how else I'll add some verticality into my layout though.

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Height should be 14 or 15 if you have electric locomotives with pantographs -- even the standard HE needs 14 for clearance, unless you keep the pantograph completely 'closed' aka 'down'.

Make sure also you have 8 or more studs in length of straight track outside of the tunnel -- i.e. don't have a curve section immediately before the entrance. Obvious, perhaps , but since you wanted precise rules... :)

The tunnel in itself can be boring (no pun intended), the interesting part of what you do with the sides and especially on top.

I built one mostly to gain extra space for extra buildings, but i've seen examples of pretty nice mountain scenery, waterfalls, and other cool creations on top of tunnels..

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Most people won't see inside the tunnel, so don't worry about using expensive parts for supports inside - I use all sorts of old and battered parts there to keep the newer, cleaner one for parts of the layout that can be seen.

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I believe the Maersk Container (10219) train is the tallest when you have the containers stacked 2 high. My tunnel is 14 bricks tall before the 1 x 5 x 4 arches are used. They are gapped by a 1 x 4 plate to get the 12 studs wide.

Some LTC/LUGs limit the height of a train to be 14 1/2 brick high.

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Thanks for the information! I don't think I'll end up doing a tunnel, but rather a cut instead - where the hill is in the way but not big enough to warrant a tunnel, but just an excavation.

The tunnel in itself can be boring (no pun intended), the interesting part of what you do with the sides and especially on top.

Totally agree. This way I have more open space and I don't have to build a giant mountain either.

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I'd have thought a cutting would be even more expensive than a tunnel, seeing as you'll have to use a *lot* of bricks to create and decorate the sides of the cutting which you wouldn't need if you were just laying some flat plates over the top (although obviously whatever is on the top will need to be bigger to fill the larger available space).

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I've found the Creator line Mountain Hut to be an effective poor-man's tunnel topper. Relatively cheap for the expanse it covers (about 50% the length of my tunnel and the entire width). If you're looking for a quick and easy option, at least. You can build up off the right end of it to a higher-elevation mountain peak as well.

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I'd have thought a cutting would be even more expensive than a tunnel, seeing as you'll have to use a *lot* of bricks to create and decorate the sides of the cutting which you wouldn't need if you were just laying some flat plates over the top (although obviously whatever is on the top will need to be bigger to fill the larger available space).

The idea I have is that I can have a small slope or rocky outcropping as opposed to an entire mountainside, both of which consume a lot of pieces (that I don't have and will order from bricklink) - the smaller elevation change means less pieces!

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