TRAIN TECH Help, General Questions & Talk to the Staff
#77
Posted 17 September 2012 - 06:05 AM
juzo, on 16 September 2012 - 10:04 AM, said:
When you add the second motor, both will be connected to the receiver the same way, hence they will have the same polarity. The easiest way to attach the motors underneath the train is in opposite directions (because otherwise the wire isn't long enough and with an extension it is likely to foul the train baseplate). The result is they run in opposite directions and the train goes no-where. The switch allows you to reverse the polarity of one motor so they then run in the same direction.
Edited by peterab, 17 September 2012 - 06:07 AM.
#78
Posted 27 September 2012 - 01:29 AM
sixoh | M. Ellis | Northeast Indiana, US
Classic town / train fan
#79
Posted 27 September 2012 - 06:02 AM
#80
Posted 27 September 2012 - 06:47 AM
AndyC, on 27 September 2012 - 06:02 AM, said:
Thanks for the prompt answer! That's unfortunate - back to the drawing board, then.
sixoh | M. Ellis | Northeast Indiana, US
Classic town / train fan
#81
Posted 30 September 2012 - 11:32 PM
Many thanks,
Shane
#82
Posted 30 September 2012 - 11:55 PM
charlieboy, on 30 September 2012 - 11:32 PM, said:
They're the right size to fit on new P/F track, but out of the box expect to get power from the old-style metal rails. Assuming you can find somewhere to hide a PF battery box and receiver it should however be possible to modify them to run using the newer tech instead (the old 9V motor is exactly the same size as the newer P/F train motor, which helps somewhat)
#83
Posted 25 October 2012 - 08:31 PM

I love this set. It makes me feel I'm in a dirty, segregated, industrial part of a large city, which I think Lego pulled off very well.
Edited by TheBrickster, 26 October 2012 - 01:26 AM.
Moved topic to General Train Questions
#85
Posted 29 October 2012 - 06:50 PM
SheepEater, on 29 October 2012 - 04:28 PM, said:
I get that I'm supposed to have only a 1 plate height difference between each end of each track, but beyond that, I'm inexperienced.
Check out this topic on bridges and inclines http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=34893

#86
Posted 29 October 2012 - 09:03 PM
yesterday I got a cheap set 7740. Unfortunately some stickers are missing. Now I'am trying to get the missing ones. Here I have some questions:
Are the 7740 stickers in the middle of the trainbase connected to the DB-Logo or are these two stickers on both side?
The sticker-sheets of the set 7745 are much cheaper than of the set 7740. My question is are the DB-Logo sticker (without the number on the two cars) and the destination signs identical on both sets or are there different sizes?
My last question is about the "Speisewagen" sticker. I cant find them on bricklink or elswhere. Does anybody knows where to get these or should I post in the trading forum?
I hope anybody could help me.
Thanks and greetings
Andreas
Edited by TheBrickster, 30 October 2012 - 01:57 AM.
Topic moved to our question topic.
#87
Posted 29 October 2012 - 10:40 PM

The Speisewagen stickers can be found on this sheet above the green 2's
The white DB stickers seem to be the same size on the sheet of 7745

Hope this helps.
Edited by Pet-Lego, 29 October 2012 - 10:45 PM.

#88
Posted 02 November 2012 - 12:31 AM
@ Pet-Lego: Thanks for your post. It opened my eyes. The white DB sticker are a little bit smaller than the black DB sticker because they are for the front of the train.
Poorly I have to find a new way to get the missing stickers.
Greetings
Andreas
#89
Posted 02 November 2012 - 06:17 AM
#90
Posted 02 November 2012 - 06:44 AM
If you just gotta have one of the AFOL trains, the Maserk train is still available at the moment and it should have some play factor. You'll need track (curves are cheapest on bricklink, straights are expensive everywhere, or you might want to consider enlighten track as a cheaper alternative). The PF components will be another $50-$100, so between the track and PF, you've come close to paying for the cheapest city train. If you are testing the waters, I'd suggest you get the AAA box and hold off getting the rechargible battery until you know it is worth the $75 investment to you.
In either case, the PF is pretty easy to work with and all three of the current city trains seem to be pretty good.
#91
Posted 02 November 2012 - 02:55 PM
#92
Posted 03 November 2012 - 01:33 AM
#93
Posted 03 November 2012 - 02:02 AM
Paddyb98, on 03 November 2012 - 01:33 AM, said:
The enlighten trains have some interesting parts but have a couple of drawbacks. The plastic colours are slightly different than LEGO colours, and the clutch power is also different and less consistent. Some pieces bind too well and others not well enough. Enlighten seem to be a lot better than other clones though. The real disadvantage of Enlighten trains for me is the track is brown rather than dark grey. The wheel sets also have a lot more friction than LEGO train wheels.
#95
Posted 03 November 2012 - 07:36 AM
#96
Posted 03 November 2012 - 02:28 PM
#97
Posted 03 November 2012 - 02:44 PM
Paddyb98, on 03 November 2012 - 01:33 AM, said:
I'm going with Lego engines and cars with some Enlighten cars mixed in myself.
Check out my 1st review; 10250 Creator - Year of the Snake here
#98
Posted 07 November 2012 - 08:46 PM
I have decided to rebuilt the train I used to played when I was young (even if I must find some space).
So I have (12V train) :
- 50 curved rails
- 50 straight rails
- 2 switch points (1 left / 1 right)
- 2 crossings
- 2 remote control signals
- 1 transformer 12V
- 2 trains
a) I'm looking for a playable train layout - if possible in a minimum space / room - and I don't know what would be the best choice (track plan).
Do you have any idea ? Where can I find some examples ?
I have dowloaded blu brick that help, but I need more inspiration. I can also consider to add some tacks if needed (swith point ?).
b) Then I also consider to add a transformer in order to control 2 trains separatly, or more exactly 2 parts of the layout.
But would it be possible to have a track that communicates between those 2 parts (I mean I probably must have to use an isolation process somewhere or something like that). The goal would be to control 2 trains separatly (one on each part) with a possible access to each part for each train (if it's explained somewhere, please let me know).
Thansks for your help, and sorry for my poor english
#99
Posted 07 November 2012 - 09:19 PM

You may have to modify the cables but it can work. The only drawback is that the trains will run at the same speed. For access to say a switching yard, you can create points that link from track to track.
Hope this helps!
Edited by Darthluke824, 07 November 2012 - 09:20 PM.
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#100
Posted 07 November 2012 - 10:53 PM
http://www.peeron.com/scans/7777-1/
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