Official #8110 Unimog U400 Thread
#1077
Posted 03 April 2012 - 06:14 PM
DarkSurgeXL, on 03 April 2012 - 04:02 PM, said:
I actually own 2 sets by a strange circumstances, and it is wonderful!
Haha
#1080
Posted 06 April 2012 - 01:28 PM
He wrote, "Still related with the usage of the Panhard rod in this model, there is a discussion running at EB, regarding a potential flaw or a mistake in the building instructions.
It happens that the front and rear axles are built slightly different, leading to a small misalignment on the chassis, what may eventually avoid the model to drive perfectly straight, if it gets motorized.
In fact it is just an half stud misalignment, but it can be clearly seen on the photo bellow. There you can see the difference from the axle 3 with stud, in dark tan. The stud is totally visible on the left side but almost hidden on the right side. The difference is also visible from the towballs present on the top of the portal axles, but not so easy to realize from the photo below... Obviously this can be seen better, on the real model.
"The difference occurs because the lower end of the Panhard rod, is connected to the axles in two different ways or using two different parts. A perpendicular axlehole and pin connector (6536) on the Unimog rear axle (left photo) and a perpendicular double axlehole and pin connector (32291) on the front axle (right photo). While the correct way seems to be the one used for the rear side, the front method causes an half stud offset to the live axle making it not straight.
At first sight this seems to be an obvious mistake, but until further confirmation there is still a possibility for this to be an intentional design, to compensate some potential dynamics of this model.

"If it confirms to be a mistake [which it HAS NOT], it is one of easy resolution. You just need to replace the connector on the front with the correct one."
#1081
#1082
Posted 06 April 2012 - 04:23 PM
Still, regarding the rod, it is intentional, as is explained here.
Edited by AVCampos, 06 April 2012 - 04:26 PM.

#1083
Posted 09 May 2012 - 09:24 AM
#1085
Posted 14 October 2012 - 03:18 AM
The Panhard Rod has been discussed many times before and following by the book, I found myself a victim for hours of checking back, rebuilding, fault searching and finally decided to build it my on way which was a solution found out by many fans:
Here's my reasons:
- the overall symmetrical looking with the body shell. (Not slanted)
- the exposure from both front tires against the fender look better.
- the holding angle (front view) of the front suspension are better looking. (\ / instead of \ |)
With the Panhard Rod issue, the Front Suspension also gotten my attention:
Never able the compress smoothly without the cab secure back to the chassis. Some holding power must be applied to the top mount of the suspension. No issue with the rear suspension.
- I relocate the suspension mounting 1 stud toward the body at least to make the linkage of the suspension rod better. This is to prevent the rod to bend away from the body when you push down the suspension. We should apply force at different angle to make sure the compression is smooth and I don't remember there's any discussion on the front suspension.
#1086
Posted 14 October 2012 - 06:36 AM

chassis003 von efferman auf Flickr
#1088
Posted 17 October 2012 - 09:01 AM
Additionaly, I want to see, if I can reinforce the frame structure a bit more. When there is some pressure in the middle of the structure, the whole chassis tend to bend instead of compressing the springs.
Next up: Attachments and RC via NXT.
#1089
Posted 14 November 2012 - 04:02 AM
I'd like to keep the bed intact while also displaying it with the plow attachment. I know the blue/gray panels are shared and it seems like a few others are as well and because I have no spare parts, they will have to come from Bricklink.
#1090
Posted 14 November 2012 - 09:52 PM
Traktor, on 11 August 2011 - 10:58 PM, said:
Hi
I used this as a less than elegant solution to the 'leaning left' problem.
As I said, it's not elegant but it does the job.
Grum
#1092
Posted 18 November 2012 - 02:24 AM
therealjustin, on 14 November 2012 - 04:02 AM, said:
I'd like to keep the bed intact while also displaying it with the plow attachment. I know the blue/gray panels are shared and it seems like a few others are as well and because I have no spare parts, they will have to come from Bricklink.
Anyone know what parts are needed in order to build the plow while keeping the cargo bed?
Edited by therealjustin, 18 November 2012 - 02:24 AM.
#1093
Posted 18 November 2012 - 01:10 PM
Check out my LDD Brickshelf or my regular Brickshelf for anything technic.
#1097
Posted 03 February 2013 - 10:27 AM
grum64, on 14 November 2012 - 09:52 PM, said:
As I said, it's not elegant but it does the job.
quite the contrary - in my humble opinion your solution is very clever and solves one of the most annoying drawbacks of the unimog in an elegant manner...
#1099
Posted 03 February 2013 - 03:57 PM
one battery pack is for driving (2XL) and steering (1M) the other battery pack is for dual pumps (1M) and pto (1M), and i have added one airtank for more playability to the crane,
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