kyphur

LDraw MOC: Transfer caboose

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I know I already have one entry completed but the rules say you can enter multiple times (only winning is limited to one per user)...

I've been thinking of Cabooses (or is it Cabeese) and one that I haven't seen yet in LEGO is a Transfer caboose.

I present my initial design:

6216590136_d0d1953b2b_z.jpg

Here is the prototype:

6216590114_55be831f98_z.jpg

Here's the set.

I would appreciate any feedback.

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Well, adding some snot techniques, also building the train a bit off the baseplate etc. would improve your MOC.

Maybe make the roof 10 x 6 and let it hang over 1/2 stud in the length side.

I think the way you are using the bars is nice though.

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I added the detail above the doors (didn't notice it on the Prototype before) and adjusted the roof to have a 1/2 stud overhang at each end.

I also redesigned the Brake Control.

6216765048_a7a3e28a69_z.jpg

6216248635_0097ccf0de_z.jpg

@JopieK, I'm not sure what you mean by "Build the train a bit off the baseplate", the cabin on the prototype is basically a box directly on the baseplate. As much as I like SNOT and intricate details this design is for the 7777 Redux Contest on Flickr. One of the points is to keep the build from getting too complex.

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The only criticism I have that I wouldn't have used that car for inspriation but I think you captured it nicely and even

improved upon it.

:sweet:

As for construction techniques mentioned by the second poster, I have to agree with you that your techniques are fine.

It is definitely "in the spirit" of the competition, maybe perhaps a hair "too complicated" for the competition, but

still acceptable in my books.

Great model and thanks for posting it.

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The only criticism I have that I wouldn't have used that car for inspriation but I think you captured it nicely and even improved upon it.

Thanks for the compliment. You're right the prototype is really a boring bit of rolling stock but in reality there are a lot of boring train bits in the universe and they need some love too! The main reason I choose this type of Caboose is exactly because it seems to have been overlooked and yet it makes a perfect companion piece for the new 3677 Red Train Set (which is another reason I choose it), I mean it has all of the MOW gear but no place for the work crew and their stuff. I'm going to stock the cabin with tools and maybe even drop a welder on the rear deck when I built this in living brick!

As for construction techniques mentioned by the second poster, I have to agree with you that your techniques are fine.

It is definitely "in the spirit" of the competition, maybe perhaps a hair "too complicated" for the competition, but

still acceptable in my books.

Great model and thanks for posting it.

I'm curious to know what you think might be "a hair too complicated" for the contest. I think the most advanced build technique is using the jumper plates to get the 1/2 stud overhang at each end of the cabin roof.

Here are a couple more images showing the "hidden" structure:

6217524282_de4049dbbb_z.jpg

6217005723_83ba79ba78_z.jpg

Edited by kyphur

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Well you did what I suggested you by giving the roof half a stud offset to each side.

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Well you did what I suggested you by giving the roof half a stud offset to each side.

Was that what you meant by "building off the base"? I'd never heard that phrase before.

Thanks for the suggestion, it actually prompted me to add the shade over the doors at the same time.

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I really like this! If it were done in red and converted into a dining car, then you'd have Kiski Junction Railroad's #200 Transfer Caboose....

Hmmm.... That gives me an idea. It should be fairly easy to model KJR's complete Passenger lineup and their Alco S-1....

Anyways, thanks for sharing this nifty design!

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I really like this! If it were done in red and converted into a dining car, then you'd have Kiski Junction Railroad's #200 Transfer Caboose....

Hmmm.... That gives me an idea. It should be fairly easy to model KJR's complete Passenger lineup and their Alco S-1....

Anyways, thanks for sharing this nifty design!

Oh man that's wild! Looks like they've modified the railing on the open ends so you enter/exit right over the buffer/coupler so that they could line the sides on the deck evenly with tables.

If you do the Kiski Junction #200 conversion please do share it with me, it's neat to inspire someone else's build...

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OK I give up. I've tried Googling it.

What actually is a Transfer Caboose used for?

It seems all I can find is that it some sort of Guards-Van with platforms at each end. So why is it in some way different from any other guards van and what are the platforms for? There are many links that have pictures of them and go on to describe what they look like but nothing that I can find that points out what the tranfer caboose does that the normal guards-van does not?

Apart from that, your MOC looks good and does have a lot of similar features to the ones in the pictures I've seen. On a personal note I would prefer SNOT, bit I do agree with you that in this particular case for the competion it is better to be left like it is. It would not be that hard to SNOTify it if someone wanted to. But a good job of representing this wagon.

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OK I give up. I've tried Googling it.

What actually is a Transfer Caboose used for?

This is the best explanation I've stumbled across:

"Transfer cabooses were typically used for short transfer runs between different yards in an area. This is why they are typically low rent affairs. Thus the use of an old flatcar or caboose no longer usable for main line traffic (due to outdated brakes or car type, e.g. trussrod frame).

They were also used for crew transfers from one area on the RR to another."

So basically it's just something cheap to keep the more expensive Cabooses available for service on the main lines.

Apart from that, your MOC looks good and does have a lot of similar features to the ones in the pictures I've seen. On a personal note I would prefer SNOT, bit I do agree with you that in this particular case for the competion it is better to be left like it is. It would not be that hard to SNOTify it if someone wanted to. But a good job of representing this wagon.

Thanks,

When I go 8-Wide I'll probably SNOT it up but then I won't be limited by the rules of a contest.

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@JopieK, I'm not sure what you mean by "Build the train a bit off the baseplate", the cabin on the prototype is basically a box directly on the baseplate. As much as I like SNOT and intricate details this design is for the 7777 Redux Contest on Flickr. One of the points is to keep the build from getting too complex.

As for construction techniques mentioned by the second poster, I have to agree with you that your techniques are fine.

It is definitely "in the spirit" of the competition, maybe perhaps a hair "too complicated" for the competition, but

still acceptable in my books.

A little bit of SNOT is certainly acceptable[1]. A little bit of studlessness too[2]. I don't expect people to build like it's 1981. That wouldn't be anywhere near as interesting.

Note that TLG themselves use a bit of SNOT (although never compounded, always just once) and studlessness (there's far fewer studes on modern models compared to old ones).

What I don't want to see is ridiculously complicated SNOT like this sort of thing.

Tim

[1] And by SNOT I mean the proper meaning of the word: built with studs pointing in different directions.

[2] Which is not the same as, though often leads to, studlessness, where the model has very few studs showing.

Edited by gambort

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A little bit of SNOT is certainly acceptable[1]. A little bit of studlessness too[2]. I don't expect people to build like it's 1981. That wouldn't be anywhere near as interesting.

well... that is SNOTTy...

:tongue:

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I'm personally not a huge fan of SNOT... Particularly if it's not really necessary to get the look you want, due to the fact that SNOT tends to exponentially lower the structural integrity of the build. ...Well, that, and I'm something of a traditionalist. Personally, I think the Transfer Caboose is fine the way it is (although I'd probably use those 2x4 bow plates on the roof, and do the brakewheels a bit differently)...

As for studlessness, I'm generally for it if it's on the roof or something like that, but I want my minifigs to be able to actually STICK to the places where you'd expect them to be standing/sitting, again, due to the fact that I usually have my stuff in storage where it gets bumped around occasionally, and I like to have my minifigs where I left them when I get the set back out.

Still, that is just my own $0.02 on the subject.

Back to the Transfer Caboose and my other idea: I most likely won't be modelling the Kiski Junction RR anytime soon, I've got too many other projects to do first....

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While I like the texture of my first roof I've always felt it was just a bit too tall.

If I wasn't trying to stay true to the prototype then I would have gone a different route. One of my earliest designs actually used the curved slopes for a studless roof.

6223553832_1b7681b26a_z.jpg

I'm also playing with colors. The original green won't work because the windows aren't available (well there are only 2 on BL and they're $25 each!).

Red, Yellow, Black & White are all possibilities. I'm leaning towards Yellow (seems to be a popular color in the 7777 Book).

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Here is the first of 3 planned real physical models of my MOC:

In Green with the original roof design.

6252428669_0263dba0bd_z.jpg

6252429615_5d3acac0a2_z.jpg

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Here is the second of 3 Transfer Cabooses (or Cabeese) for my fleet (and the 7777 Redux Contest Entry)

Aside from the color and the Roof the model is identical to the first.

Roof Style 2 in Yellow:

6270693967_f83dff0b62_z.jpg

6270692961_08ae85b3d5_z.jpg

Yes, there are 4 white pieces on the roof that need to be replaced, just waiting for the BrickLink Fairy to deliver.

The 3rd and final variant will be red with a much flatter roof covered in Tiles, 1x2 Grille (again, waiting for BL Delivery).

For the 7777 Redux Official Entry I'll provide instructions for the base model (Caboose without the roof) and each of the 3 roof designs. I'll also list in which colors the model can be built.

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Building Instructions are now posted (Image is link to the Flickr Set):

6419160857_b6ffee4df9_z.jpg

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