MOC: Narrow Gauge Stadler GTW

[Ashi Valkoinen]

Indexed by Moderator

After a long time I'd like to introduce my new train MOC, which one is actually my first 6-wide train, the narrow-gauge Stadler GTW.

Fig.1: The whole train on brick-built train track.

The second meeting in 2012 of hungarian LEGO users group (MALUG) was held last weekend in Budapest. Before this event on of our LUG members called others to build narrow gauge vechiles for the meeting. After thinking about my possibilities and favourited vechiles I started to build the first popular vechile of Stadler, the GTW. The coloring of this train is not autenthic, there are no OBB/SBB colored GTWs in narrow gauge, but I had only red and white bricks to use.

The real challenge was to build the PF-system into the train and make it able to run on narrow-gauge train track (the curved track pieces from Indiana Jones sets in dark bluish gray and from Space sets in black). The LUG member called others to build narrow-gauge vechiles set up a test-track for all trains, built from this curved track pieces, including two S-turns.

That was the test-track (with the little green train): http://www.brickshel...11/dsc_1882.jpg

Firstly I've realized, that I've had to build one and half windows less to the modell then the original train. The radius of these curve is 27 stud, and my train actual length is 90 studs. The middle-section contains two PF M-motors, both of them are driving one axle via 12 tooth-gear wheels. One of the low-floor sections contains the battery box and the IR-reciever. The train has two yellow front lights on each end, PF leds' cables are hidden in the roof.

Fig.2: Driven axles and coupling solution for the train. Left side coupled, right disconnected. The coupling enables about 75° turnout and looks like closed until 30° turnout.

Fig.3: Turnout. However I did not have test track for the meeting, the train succeded to run on the test track.

The most 'engineering' success for me is the coupling solution. Using SNOT slopes by the coupling looks really great, they are avaliable in lot of colors, and you don't need rubber. This method will work for trains with Jacobs-boogies, too, the only difference is, that the middle section is narrower.

The front part of the train is built of prepared modules, it can be repared, changed without getting of the train from the rails.

Fig.4: Modules forming the train front with power functions lights built in.

Hope you enjoyed, please comment you critics here.

AV

[mostlytechnic]

Great coupling setup there. Lego should have considered something like that for the Horizon Express

[zephyr1934]

That is a very nice build and I like how your attention to detail went beyond the train to include the catenary and brick built track. The articulation is fantastic and making anything run on 4 wide track is excellent.

[eurotrash]

The brick engineering in the coupling is very nicely done. Thanks for sharing it with us.

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

Impressive building technique ...very unique!

Brilliant work!

[Locomotive Annie]

Seriously impressive modelmaking and some great Lego engineering with that coupling setup. I like how you built the trackwork on the display diorama and your overhead catenary is nicely built too.

[Ashi Valkoinen]

Thanks for all of you. :)

I hope that I could use this coupling-technique in some other MOCs, like 8W electric motor units and trams (as hungarian Siemens Combino).

[Hrw-Amen]

I have to say that I am also impressed that you included the catenary masts. It really bugs me that we see all these trains running around with the pantographs up supposedly getting the power out of thin air. It is the reason I don't really like the red passenger and yellow cargo trains. I'd rather they not have them at all. Still your model is good to see as they are included. Nice work with the coupling as well and fitting all that PF stuff inside such a narrow train.

[Ashi Valkoinen]

I have to say that I am also impressed that you included the catenary masts. It really bugs me that we see all these trains running around with the pantographs up supposedly getting the power out of thin air. It is the reason I don't really like the red passenger and yellow cargo trains.

In 2011, after out third exhibition we faced the same problem. We had a lot of locomotives and motor units with pantographs, but we did not have catenary for it. After that we accepted to build catenary for next HUNLTC event. All of the poles are designed like this. And the catenary was followed by ballasted tracks. Not only the trains are important, the enviroment can impress both the events' visitors and the AFOL community.

Picture: catenary and track ballast: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/AshiValkoinen/OtherLEGO/img_2286.jpg

[Locomotive Annie]

In 2011, after out third exhibition we faced the same problem. We had a lot of locomotives and motor units with pantographs, but we did not have catenary for it. After that we accepted to build catenary for next HUNLTC event. All of the poles are designed like this. And the catenary was followed by ballasted tracks. Not only the trains are important, the enviroment can impress both the events' visitors and the AFOL community.

Picture: catenary and track ballast: http://www.brickshel...GO/img_2286.jpg

The design of the catenary masts your group is using is very nice indeed. Could you give us a part breakdown of these masts as I'm sure that I'm not the only one running electric locos who wants to have catenary masts on their own layouts.

[Ashi Valkoinen]

Dear Annie,

Part list for one catenary pole:

Window 1 x 2 x 3 Flat Front | green | 7

Brick 1×2 | green | 1 (+1)*

Hinge Plate 1 x 2 Locking with 2 Fingers On End | dark bluish gray | 2

Hinge Cylinder 1 x 2 Locking with 1 Finger and Axle Hole On Ends | black | 2

Minifig, Weapon Lance | black | 1

Hose, Soft 3mm D. 5L | black | 2

Hand | black | 2

Black Bar 1L with Clip Mechanical Claw | black | 1

If you build a double-pole between two paralell lines (8 studs between tracks), except the first two lots you need double quantities.

*The standard gabarite's height used by us is 18 bricks. The six 1×2×3 windows guarantee this height, If the track ballast's height is one brick, we use an another 1×2 brick under the windows.

(The original catenary pole design belongs Balázs Farkas, one of the HUNLTC members.)

Edited November 16, 2012 by Ashi Valkoinen

[peterab]

I have to say that I am also impressed that you included the catenary masts. It really bugs me that we see all these trains running around with the pantographs up supposedly getting the power out of thin air. It is the reason I don't really like the red passenger and yellow cargo trains. I'd rather they not have them at all. Still your model is good to see as they are included. Nice work with the coupling as well and fitting all that PF stuff inside such a narrow train.

While I agree in principle with the idea that there should be catenary masts and even wire, there is a point where you can just say it's too much effort and put it on the todo list for later. If everything has to be perfect we get less done, whereas incremental improvements encourage us along. Besides both those trains look like European prototypes which exist as diesel electrics as well as pure electrics so if the pantographs really bother you just take them off and build a bridge.

[Locomotive Annie]

Thank you very much Ashi, - that's going to really help me out when it comes to laying out my mainline.