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Found 12 results

  1. Tíre Keep is one of the most valuable strongholds of Avalonia. Though it has never been occupied, it's real advantage is the lighthouse: Avalonian ships are ensured they will not get lost the Great Western Ocean. ------------ ------------ My second entry to the SJ '17, again for the Castle Collab, and my amazing team mates are @Henjin_Quilones and @The Maestro (who's builds will follow). I would like to thank them, and of course the organisation, since I had great fun and I think so had everyone else. Note that it would theoretically be possible to combine all four builds into one big build withouth any (easily noticeable) seams by putting them next to eacht other (and of course removing the border ). The build was heavily inspired by DC's builds, which I think is easily noticeable. The shutters were borrowed from ZC's "Ye Slightly Newer Forge". Still, I'm very fond of this one (especially of the completely-timbered tudor sections) Thanks for looking, CC very welcome! Tíre Gatehouse Tíre Village
  2. Tíre Keep is one of the most valuable strongholds of Avalonia. Though it has never been occupied, it's real advantage is the lighthouse: Avalonian ships are ensured they will not get lost the Great Western Ocean. My second entry for the SJ castle collab. My team mates are @Henjin_Quilones and @TitusV and it was great working with them. I like it, it looks good but the Tudor work ruins it unfortunately. Make sure you check out the other teams entry, which will all be on the guilds soon. Hope you enjoy and C&C needed.
  3. Tíre Keep is one of the most valuable strongholds of Avalonia. Though it has never been occupied, it's real advantage is the lighthouse: Avalonian ships are ensured they will not get lost the Great Western Ocean. ---------- ---------- My entry to the SJ '17, I'm glad I finally got around to posting it here. Category is the Castle Collab, and my amazing team mates are @Henjin_Quilones and @The Maestro (who's builds will follow). I would like to thank them, and of course the organisation, since I had great fun and I think so had everyone else. Note that it would theoretically be possible to combine all four builds into one big build withouth any (easily noticeable) seams by putting them next to eacht other. The only thing I'm not very happy about are the fleshies figures, but well... My team insisted! And I have to concede it works well with the (somewhat darker) atmosphere we tried to create. Thanks for looking, CC very welcome! Tíre Courtyard Tíre Gatehouse
  4. - Be cautious, I can't guarantee that stretching the balloon tire like this over a long time won't disform the tire - I have a deal with @DugaldIC that my next build will be a motorized model (his next build will be a HoG-model). This is very challenging for me, because I never did something with LEGO motors. I don't even own one. I'm thinking about a 4x4 off-road model with knob wheel drive. I want to use the Porsche rims - not because of their looks, but because of their deep offset - but I couldn't accept the use of third party off-road tires without first trying to see what I can do with 100% LEGO parts. So I have been puzzling with wrapping the 94.8 x 44 R Balloon Tire around the Porsche rims - which requires quite some force - but I couldn't get both sides of the tire inserted in the wheel ridges. There was allways one side popping out of one of the wheel ridges. But after some trial and error I found an easy way. Just put the Porsche tires inside the balloon tire, make sure you center it prefectly inside the balloon tire and wrap the two tires around the Porsche rim together. The inner tire will span the balloon tire widthwise and makes it easy to insert the tire sides into the wheel ridges. The inner tire also gives the balloon tire a pleasnt sturdy feel.
  5. Due to a large haul of Lego pieces I acquired from a friend, I took a look back at my collection of loose Lego parts to make some room for them. The problem is that I have an overabundance of tires which are very dirty. What should I do to clean them? If my childhood memories are correct, just washing or rinsing them in water alone was never enough; when left to dry, dust re-adhered to the tires in larger quantities -especially when dried off with a napkin. What must be done to get them looking and feeling like new?
  6. I am trying to import my LDD model to Bricksmith which uses LDraw database, but tire (tyre) 61254.dat is missing. I checked the LDraw database and I cannot find a correct file with the tread and all. Can someone point me to it? Much appreciated. Here is the Bricklink reference: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=84621#T=C Here is what I found: http://www.ldraw.org/cgi-bin/ptdetail.cgi?f=parts/61254.dat Apparently it needs the tread file 61254s01.dat somehow used along with it, which is linked from within the 61254.dat link, but I do not know how to use them in combination. I copied them both to my Bricksmith/LDraw parts directory, but it's not coming out right. I'd appreciate some help, hopefully a fully compiled 61254.dat file or a solution to my problem. Thanks in advance. Miro
  7. My experience with the LEGO 94.8 x 44 R Balloon tires (54120) is that they are quite sloppy and noisy. I use them for my Steppenwolf, which weighs a little more than 2kg, that's about 500gr per tire. When I move the vehicle around I can hear the tires reshaping and refitting all the time. It makes a strange grinding noise which I find quite annoying. A pure Lego way to make them less sloppy is to insert a LEGO 94.2mm D. x 22mm Motorcycle Racing Tread tire (88516) as a kind of inner tube. It adds extra tension to the tire, as if it was filled with more air. The effect is constant over the entire tire and still allows for some reshaping. After playing around with the tires on a flat surface for a while I noticed they ride a lot lighter too, with far less resistance. I can imagine this could also be of use for RC trial trucks to avoid these tires from severe misshaping under heavy circumstances, causing them to run off the rims completely. EDIT: As a nice side effect, this solution also prevents the rim from slipping inside the tire, something that has actually been reported for this tire. The motor tire expands the balloon tire slightly - diameter increases by approx. 3mm - which causes the sides of the tire to be pulled inwards slightly. This in turn causes the edges of the tire to induce more grip on the edges of the rim.
  8. Hello, could someone help me identify the wheels / tires used in this MOC? Thanks!
  9. I was thinking of something different to build. Then it came to me, a Tire Changer.... I was like "Totally different and and would be a good build." Then I got to thinking "No, a tire changer that could do Lego (Technic) tires. That would different and AWSOME." But as I start to work on a "rough draft" of the put that breaks the bead of the tire, the small LA is weak. So maybe I'll try pneumatic cylinder to keep a small form. And I'll try the large LA too in a few hours. This is not exactly my WIP, but a community WIP. Given the difficulty of this concept, everyone's ideas, thoughts, and work would be great. Maybe, together, we can make a tire changer for Lego.
  10. Hey everyone. With regard to the new Model Team contest It occurred to me to ask about the tire 13 x 24 (Item No:2696) As you may be able to see from the pics below there is two different compounds these tires came in. Grippy one on LEFT (note the dip on the outside), Older one on Right. (Sorry for the dirt, haven't been used in like 20 years!) I'm sure I received set 8210 as a kid and it had a much softer compound tires that noticeably grip on smooth surfaces. In light of the coming contest this is of no importance, but if one was building a small drifter the difference would be noticeable. And as I have only one of these "grippy" versions, I wonder how would you order them from BL knowing you will get the softer or harder compound? http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=8210-1 I'm guessing the only sure way is to buy 8210 NEW! haha, or just ask the seller, hoping they don't think you are crazy. But I'm curious to know what others think. Visually the grippy ones appear poorer in quality too with slight deforms. Most noteworthy for identifying them apart is the grippy ones have smoother insides. Putting rims inside doesn't remove the "dip" on the outside either.
  11. With the hubless wheel post in the back of my mind and some 56x28 ZR Street tires on my table next to some old-style track links, something clicked in my head. 22 of the track links fit perfectly in the 56x28 tires. More interestingly, if you put 4L tiles or plates on alternating links, they also fit the inside of the Unimog tire. Of course you'll need more than 22 - probably between 40 and 50 - to fill the Unimog tire. The tracks can be driven by spur gears, so you could make a planetary reduction hub which could also be a portal hub. I don't plan to make any large trucks any time soon, but figured I'd post this in case it's useful to those who build trial trucks and other large vehicles.
  12. I have to replace 8110's tires (94,8 x 38R) with rc rock crawlers' tires (like those in th picture) to give more traction to my Tatra T813 4x4 RC Trial Truck. Who of you know tires about the size of the set 9398 that do not cost more than $5 each?