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  1. Dear All, it has been a very long time since my last “productive” post on EB – I have been lurking ever since from time to time - but no contributions from my side. It is time to share some of the stuff that has slowly accumulated over the recent years. These are some locomotive and rolling stock ideas/MODs/MOCs. Below is a short summary of what and why; the instructions were meant to go on the RailBricks repository but that seems to be no longer an option. Instead, I am using my cloud space at work; a click on the link below the images should get you to a corresponding folder with the MLCad/LDraw file(s) and the LPub instruction PDF(s). Note that there are 300DPI as well as low-res versions of the PDF files; the latter are much more bandwidth friendly. Also note that there may be numerous errors/faults – I am using these files as references and aid for my rather limited building capabilities. Generally, I am building in a rather weird way, I guess. Most of the parts I am using, particularly for rolling stock, are spare parts from LEGO sets I got as present or simply purchased for other parts. Rarely the sets I am buying survive as a whole. It may also be an excuse to regularly visit the local TrU or LEGO stores nearby … for some reason it is still very exciting to me to browse through their shelves – that is also the reason for not ordering sets or parts online that often. There are exceptions of course. BrickLink is more of a last (and beautiful) resort. I have simply more fun figuring out ways of using individual pieces that initially appeared to be useless even for a longer time. Also, I hardly use scaled schematics for building – it is just my personal look and feel that should be “right”. So all my models may well appear as inaccurate or unrealistic in some way or the other – but they are just that: LEGO MOCs and MODs … and I am sure, that many building ideas have already been shown – either here on EB, in the various BrickShelf galleries, or somewhere else. I have not checked thoroughly though – just let me know and I’ll add the references. There are currently no photographs of the real trains. I am planning on taking these along with some impressions of my expanded “home office layout” – hopefully sooner than in a couple of years from now. This a rather long post, I am sorry. But I simply did not want to open several threads on rather minor things. Locomotives/Trains 1) GP38 “BNSF” (#10133) MOD LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) I personally believe that the BNSF GP38 is one of the most inspiring train models TLC ever made. It appears as if many builders have modded, extended, and (re)designed their models based – at least partly – on the layout of this engine. I have also merged some of the beautiful design elements from the SD40-2 “Maersk” train (set #10219; these are the cab lights, front section, truck elements with new discrete brick/plate pilot design) along with a new frame comprised of discrete plates, re-bricked the fuel tanks, and added front PF lights. The concept of powering the locomotive is either pure “9V” or “PF”. A PF version requires a controller of some sort; either custom approaches (e.g., Arduino) or plain vanilla PF controllers/batteries located in separate cars etc. When running on its own with onboard battery and controller, the color scheme suffers severely on the 4-wide body section of the locomotive, which could be covered by custom stickers of course. The modified SD40-2 “Maersk” train introduced further below may also serve for “controlling” purpose. On my layout an SD40-2/GP38 pair is hauling rather heavy loads: The SD40-2 as PF controller with onboard battery and two motors and the GP38 with just one additional motor hooked up to the SD40-2. The V2 version of the PF receiver is handling 3 motors rather flawlessly when fed with the rechargeable LEGO LiPo battery. The required building steps are included in the SD40-2 instruction section, see below. 2) SD40-2 “Maersk” (#10219) MOD LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) The major SD40-2 changes are the discrete plate frame (this way it became possible to add the neat white stripes the original locomotive features), changes to the trucks (they are one stud shorter and have a discrete brick/plate pilot), changes to the main body behind the cab, which is now only 4 studs wide, and to the fuel tanks. The engine is PF controlled, runs on the LEGO LiPo rechargeable battery, which is in turn charged through power-pickup from the 9V rails using a modified 9V train motor, cf. this EuroBricks topic, PF V2 receiver, and second PF train motor, along with PF head lights. The additional second PF receiver output wired to the rear section may be optionally used to operate a third motor; the GP38 shown above is an example. The color scheme of the 4 studs wide section behind the cab is suffering from the dark/light grey sections of the PF elements; however, I pretty much like the “used look” that results from that though. I never really like the original LEGO design of the body, where the receiver etc. is covered by large plates – to me, it appeared simply too wide for an overall 6 studs wide model. Note: There is an additional PDF which shows the required modifications to pair the SD40-2 with the GP38 shown above 3) Cargo Train (#4512) MOD 1 (engine), 2 (battery car), 3 (box car), 4 (box car type2), whole set LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) The “major” changes to this very classic 9V train are the addition of a PF “battery car” in the same color scheme of the original locomotive and box car, and some undercarriage changes to the latter. There is also a second version of the box car. I really do like the old-dark grey/green color scheme of this train. Fortunately, my father has given me his Sopwith Camel (set #3451) as “brick supply”; this way also the second box car version became reality in the grey/green color scheme. The front section of the locomotive is raised by one plate and the front handrail changed. 4) High Speed Passenger Train (#7897) MOD 1 (engine), 2 (coach A), 3 (coach B), whole set LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) Ages ago the “real,-“ department store close by not necessarily well known for their LEGO set inventory had the RC high speed “ICE” like train set on sale … I got two for very little money. Well, the one-piece front cab of this train (part #55768) has been discussed “controversially” – carefully phrased – but nevertheless, as far as I am concerned, with some modding a more or less decent passenger train resulted from merging the two sets. Everything has become a little “longer”, particularly the coaches. Also, the coaches have discrete plate frames and their trucks are rather heavily modified – based on the design of James Mathis’ Santa Fe cars (sets #10022/#10025). The four additional white 6x8x4 cylinders with flattened upper half (part #45411) required for a train consisting of two engines and three coaches came from two City tank truck sets (set #60016) – I could not get hold of the white cylinders with flattened lower half (part #45410) so the third car has a modified lower section. [Note: Unfortunately the “RC train base” (part #55455c01) is not available as official LDraw part – and I guess it never will be. I simply assembled that part from bricks and plates for the instruction and treated it as part in LPub … no idea how to do it differently. Also the “ugly” front nose is not even an unofficial LDraw part, I found the LDraw.dat file at digital-bricks. Rolling Stock 1) 4 Axle Tank Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction The tank design is close to that of the #10016 tank car set; there are some additions to the top section. The frame is made rather conveniently mainly from Technic pieces. 2) 2 Axle Tank Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction This is a plain vanilla 2-axle tank car – I guess there were many similar designs posted in this forum. 3) TankTainer Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction This one is a result purchasing the #3368 Space Center set – I was looking for the #64448 support/fence part (or whatever it is called) in red for a bridge structure – and these were left overs – as were the (sloped) tank half shells … looks a little weird but this way the car is more or less 6 wide and the tanktainer is easily removable. The frame is again mostly comprised of Technic pieces 4) Flatbed Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction The flatbed car is entirely made-up … it started with the four #91176 support parts from the 2011 Red Cargo Train #3677 set – did not know what to do with them … the cargo is – hmmm – cylinders? Had too many of the round 2x2 bricks and round bright green 1x1 plates … 5) Spine Car (with girders) MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction I guess the 5 “Toy Story 3” sets I purchased one after another for €20 each at TrU. No idea why that was, they had them for more than a year somewhat hidden in the “bulk-brick” section and each time I was there I could not resist … lots of bley plates for another bridge and for a rather big train station … but also tons of the 2x2x10 girders … 6) Gondola Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction As already mentioned, for the high speed passenger car MOD shown above I needed extra white 6x8x4 cylinders. At that time, the original ICE-type high speed train set was gone for long; the City tank truck set #60016 featured two of these cylinders each though; white with flattened upper half and green with flattened lower half. The white ones were perfect for the passenger cars, the greens were “left overs”. Which brought me to the gondola car – again entirely made up and again with a Technic element frame. 7) Tipper Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction This car is the result of eight yellow tipper end sloped pieces (part #3436) from the #4565 Freight & Crane Railway set (which was my first train set after my Dark Ages). For long, I did not know what to do with those. Then I saw tipper cars on BrickShelf, looked them up on the internet and this is the result. I guess they are rather “European” if not “German” … small and compact. The yellow color is not appropriate at all, but that’s how it is. This is it for the moment. Thanks for reading! Regards, Thorsten
  2. I'm not terribly impressed by the 2017 LEGO City Police Station. The set's layout is confusing, the jail cells are oddly positioned at street level outside of the station complex, and many of the building's rooms are unrealistically designed (how are your minifigs meant to get between floors? Or from the helipad on the roof inside the station?).That's why I made an alternate build, using only the pieces that came with set 60141.My police station is more aptly described as a local branch office. Why try to do too much with the parts they gave us in the set? My modification has two floors, an internal cell that is off from the street, and a functional ladder to allow pilots access the building from the helipad.Let me know what you think - and do check out the video review of this MOC!
  3. Hello everyone! Welcome to this thread Here you'll find my wishlist for CMFs, which I illustrate with drawings. I'm not a professional designer but an amateur and I do this just for fun. The CMF theme is one of my favorite LEGO themes ever and collecting Minifigures is one of my favorite hobbies. I'm always looking forward to get some feedback which helps me to improve. SERIES A SERIES B SERIES C SERIES D SERIES E SERIES F SERIES G SERIES H --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, here is the first wave. Let's call it SERIES A. Hope you'll like it SERIES A Enjoy exciting, new adventures with Series A of the Minifigures collectibles. This series includes the Gymnast, the Giraffe Suit Guy, the Troll, the Architect, the Southern Businessman, the Crossing Guard, the Town Crier, the Lifesaver Guy, the Piper, the Mime Girl, the Galactic Traveler, the Skydiver Girl, the Robotics Engineer, the Harpist, the Puppeteer and the Organ Grinder. Inside each ‘mystery’ bag you’ll find a minifigure with one or more accessories, plus a display plate and a collector’s leaflet 1. Gymnast Part assorment: New hula hoop piece, the S3 Sumo Wrestler hairpiece, regular head, torso and legs. 2. Town Crier Part assorment: New combo hairpiece: tricorn hat + ponytail, a new handbell, regular head, torso and legs. 3. Crossing Guard Part assorment: The Series 9 Policeman hat recolored in black, a 4L bar, a 2x2 octagonal tile with a clip, regular head, torso and legs. 4. Harpist Part assorment: New harp piece. Padme Amidala's bun hairpiece, regular head, torso and slope 5. Galactic Traveler Part assorment: New molded head: head + bubble combo, ray gun piece, 1x1 translucent stud, regular torso and legs 6. Southern Businessman Part assorment: New 10 gallon hat piece, 2 revolvers, the mustache piece, regular head, torso and legs 7. Mime Girl Part assorment: New hairpiece: beret + hair combo, regular head, torso and legs 8. Troll Part assorment: New molded head, club piece, regular torso and short legs 9. Lifesaver Guy Part assorment: New duck lifesaver piece, Poe Dameron hairpiece, flippers, regular head, torso, and legs 10. Puppeteer Part assorment: New Classic King puppet, new Jester puppet, top hat. Alfred's coattails cloth piece. Regular head, torso, and legs 11. Skydiver Girl Part assorment: S10 Skydiver helmet, parachute pack neckpiece, regular head, torso, and legs 12. Architect Part assorment: Gail the Construction Worker hairpiece recolored, suitcase piece, 2x4 tile, regular head, torso, and legs 13. Giraffe Suit Guy Part assorment: New giraffe mask, new giraffe tail, regular head, torso, and legs 14. Organ Grinder Part assorment: New music box neckpiece. Beret, classic monkey, regular head, torso, and legs 15. Piper Part assorment: Hunter's hat in dark blue, large feather, mouse, short cape, 3L bar, regular head, torso, and legs 16. Robotics Engineer Part assorment: Emmet's hard hat piece recolored, 1x1 round tile (x2), walkie talkie piece, S16 Babysitter's baby recolored, regular head, torso, and legs. And an extra head for the robot with red eyes Extra pic! The little robot's alternate head: And here is the group pic! The color is lavender, of course! This Series A would introduce 14 new moulds: hula ring, harp, duck lifesaver, beret+hair piece, music box, Classic King puppet, Jester puppet, ten gallon hat, tricorn hat+hair, handbell, Troll molded head, Galactic Traveler molded head, giraffe mask and tail So, that's it for now. I expect to post more of these later this year
  4. I like to present you my Lego town Steinbruck. The name is from Stein=brick & bruck(old German)=bridge. This is my current layout: My MOC and MOD buildings (more detail pictures in the albums; just click the pictures to get there): I'm planning a car wash for the Service Station and will build it in the next months. I also build digital, but can't afford all of them to build with bricks. Click to album.
  5. Hi Guys! Here is where you can post your MODs of the LEGO Marvel Vulture! Here is the "original": I used ingot pieces in black for the texture instead. What do you think? Thanks for looking! :) C&C very welcome!
  6. Hi. Do you remember 2016 pullback combine model? Yea, 42046+42047 extreme police racer. Looks AWESOME and I built it. And after some playing, I found AAA/rechargeable batterybox can fit if remove pullback motor. And after some more trying, I success make steering system with servo motor. Hear is resault. The Extreme Police RC Racer. Sorry for bad video. But drive very well. Can use both L motor or RC motor for drive, servo motor for steering, Sbrick or V2 receiver. Insturction here 75 part, 153 step, photo sequence.
  7. Full post here Who has the coolest gadgets? BATMAN!! Who has the tricked-out ride? BATMAN!! Well, like him or hate him, you gotta admit the Batmobile is pretty darn cool. Especially in Justice League, with all the extra guns slapped on top. I thought the JL Batmobile looked rather awesome, but when pics of the Flying Fox set came out, I wasn’t thrilled by LEGO’s official version. But this is LEGO, so I modded the 76045 Kryptonite Interception set and added the extra guns! Check it out! BEFORE AFTER You can see I added the cannon above the cockpit, the guns on either side, as well as the main cannons in front. Some of the reference images clashed so this was the best I could do. Thanks for looking! Let me know your thoughts in a comment below!
  8. As a camper van, the 31052 Vacation Getaways set is far too big for my taste. But as an exception to the rule (the rule being that alternative 3in1 models are uninspiring and poorly made) the Hillside House style small building looked sort of nice in the pictures, and the sand blue windows and door frame were enticing. So in all the places of the world, I found this set for a good price in Switzerland, which otherwise must be the most expensive country in Europe... €41 for one set. I got one and built the house. It felt even smaller than I had thought, but with another set, it could be expanded... So I bought a second set, but didn't end up expanding the house. Instead, I started playing around with LDD. The result is a 16-wide three-storey modular building based on the idea of using the sand blue windows. The back side is very plain, as are the sides of the building. There is no interior, save for steps that take you from floor to floor, apart from the ground floor, which doesn't have any steps... I'm not too fond of creating interiors for residential buildings, since they are all more or less the same, so this will most likely remain empty. I hope you like it!
  9. I was impressed enough by the new 75175 A-Wing set enough to buy it, but there are several flaws that can be addressed resulting in a much improved model. One aesthetic issue that stood out even from the earliest released images is the stepped transition of the curved slopes on the top of the hull. And while I really like the new fin parts and the attempt to angle them inwards, the official set's solution results in too much angle, a flimsy connection, and rather odd-looking brick-built engines. The landing gear is also less than ideal, with rear struts that don't fully retract and a front strut mounted higher than the rear, resulting in the model sitting very nose-down when landed. So I've addressed all of these points and included a few extra improvements to produce the version below. Features: Removed slope transition on top hull Brick-built engines replaced with cylinder bricks Engines/fins connected securely at corrected angle Fully retractable rear landing gear Front landing gear lowers to same height as rear Wider mounting of laser cannons Engine detail included under rear cover FREE LDraw instructions HERE.
  10. I was excited when Carl Greatrix' Caterham Seven was selected by Lego Ideas to become a set, and have been patiently awaiting its release. While there are many aspects of the model that are really great — all printed parts with no stickers, amazing detail in the engine bay, clever building techniques, and a great colour scheme — I have to say I felt a bit underwhelmed with the completed build. The designers seem to have sacrificed overall proportions in some areas for structural rigidity and sturdiness, and yet despite this many parts remain quite flimsy. However, with a bit of effort and some spare parts it isn't too hard to correct the flimsy bits and improve the proportions with no significant loss of sturdiness. This thread is to assist anyone who may also be less than entirely satisfied with the official build, and would like a few tips on how to improve their model. Here is a list of improvements featured in the above revised model: Reduced colour barf throughout the model's interior Front axle and fenders widened by one stud Nose section locked in place more securely Removed ugly underside front rail to nose transition Lowered overall height of the bonnet by one plate Dashboard redesigned and connected more securely Secured forward connection of the side exhaust Filled in gap between the bonnet and dashboard Replaced seats with design matching prototype version Reduced gaps between the rear wheel arches and wheels The end result is, I think, a better looking and sturdier model that I am much more satisfied with, and one which I am very pleased to display on my shelf. Below is a link to the LDraw instruction file for anyone interested in modifying their set to this version. DOWNLOAD LINK
  11. I created this modified Bucket Wheel Excavator some time ago, and I thought I would like to share it on this forum. After building the original BWE, I wanted to try to incorporate some Mindstorms functions into it. I managed to motorise all the active functions, using both an EV3 brick and motors, as well as some PF motors. Functions can be preprogrammed, or can be remotely controlled using an EV3 IR remote. Here is a list of the functions: Bucket wheel rotation and main conveyor belt - PF XL motor Lower conveyor belt - PF medium motor Boom arm elevation - EV3 large motor Lower conveyor swivel - EV3 large motor Superstructure rotation - EV3 medium motor Driving - EV3 medium motor Since I owned an NXT as well, I used it to motorise the small mining truck that was included in the set. There are also some LEDs that illuminate the 'work area', but they don't really do a good job, its just a nice thing to include. Here is a video of the excavator in action, as well as the mining truck (sorry about the poor resolution and bit rate): More info about the machine can be found here: Let me know what you think of it in the comments!
  12. I added some parts to set 5982 (Smash and Grab) and then decided on changing the color to dark gray to turn it back into a regular tow truck. I removed the flick-fire missiles, and played around with a couple of options for a driver figure, eventually settling on who you see here. "What happens when you vintage flying car runs out of plutonium, or you space limo engine gets too hot? How about if someone runs over the time on the parking meter and you need to park you hover bike? Never fear, the tow truck's here! Complete with sonic wrench and ultra-violet flashlight, this hauling machine will haul your (or someone else's!) problem away for a reasonable price. Yes sir! Just call Louis "Brains" McCoy to tow your problematic machine away... and remember, if in doubt on who to trust to tow your garage queen: Ask for the real McCoy!" The flick fire missiles used to come out of those orange globes on the front. I changed them into regular hazard lighting by securely attaching them to the frame. The ship can seat one figure in the cockpit. The rear of the ship features two engines and the crane arm. The driver of this tow truck is Louis "Brains" McCoy, brother to a famous doctor on a star-ship in another reality. A accident with a temperamental gravity-drive ship brought him to this reality and turned him into a living un-dead, though he retained all his knowledge and personality in the change. (Do NOT call him a zombie though, as it hurts his rather sensitive feelings.) The LDD file is available here if you want it. Comments, questions, suggestions, and complaints are always welcome!
  13. This ship was originally inspired by a single picture of set 76084 (The Ultimate Battle for Asgard) from the Marvel Superheroes theme. The ship was then heavily modified into it's current form, with a single tail fin and trans-red canopy. The front of the ship features a "three golden circles" symbol of the alien pilot's native culture on either side of the saucer ring. Their is room for a single pilot mini-figure at the controls behind the opening canopy. The rear of the ship features two rows of engines and a single tail fin. The alien life-form shown here has a name that is unpronounceable to most species, as she talks with his mind at a very fast pace, so everyone calls her "Hyper". This may also have something to do with her love of caffeinated drinks, as her body chemistry allows for him to drink coffee and soda at levels that would cause a human to go into diabetic shock or die. These sugary drinks only make her move faster and still keep a clear head with no addictive tendencies. (Some say one of this species drank so much caffeine his mind shifted into a higher plane of existence, and his body became pure energy.) Anyway, as you can guess, Soda and Coffee companies love his species, so most have become experimental taste testers or company representatives. Hyper makes her living as a chemist, working on new flavors of coffee and soda to sell to the drink companies. Here is the LDD link for figure and ship. Comments, questions and complaints welcome!
  14. Hello everybody, I didn't notice yet any MOD page of the Volvo EW160 excavator. I find this a really good set and as I'm an excavator lover, I couldn't resist to add a few modifications. I have already done 2- 3 and I have others in my mind. Here are the first ones I took away the cab elevating mechanism. I find the excavator better proportioned this way. It looks a lot more like the real machine and IMHO also a lot nicer. The cab was in the original model too much forward and got in the way of good playability. I still have to get rid of the grey beam behind the cab. I also put a swivel and turning mechanism on the grab, which also looks better and approaches the looks of the real machine. The mods I'm planning is to arrange the hoses on the boom and add rigid hoses.
  15. Hello Eurobricks! This is my first post, so i figured the best way to start is to display my Imperial Star Destroyer. I based it off set 6211, basically making it more detailed, and building a second top panel to place on the bottom to get the movie accurate shape. I view its as a sort of UCS set for those who can't afford the actual UCS Star Destroyer. There is not interior features, due to the demanding structure of the ship. I tried to get the engine to be mostly movie accurate: Enjoy!
  16. Inspired by set 5984 (Lunar Limo) but with the firing missile and stickers removed. The gold and purple parts have also been removed for a subdued color scheme. This limo was originally Black Hole Gang leader Brick Daddy's limo, and as such was passed onto his second in command, Mister Gray upon his death. The limo's purple and gold were removed, and a subdued gray color scheme added instead. The limo remains Mister Gray's personal transportation now that he is retired, but this is a ruse to keep the Space Police off his tail. The real work that he does is helping rebel cells fight the Space Police IV forces, either by smuggling oppressed people around in his spacious limo, or using the secret panels to covertly transport gold or cash around to rebel hideouts or stops on the underground railroad to freedom in the galaxy's central core, where sensors can not penetrate and big ships cannot enter due to the increased gravity and many asteroid chunks. The limo's obvious weapons such as missile launcher were removed when Mister Grays went clean, but the secret is that he kept the EMP generator and code scrambler as a precaution. these would prove to be most helpful in his new role as founder of the resistance network and underground railroad to help oppressed aliens and techno-mages to freedom. The limo can seat one figure at the drivers seat and figure in the back. The trunk and roof open up via hinges. The rear of the ship. The trunk can also hold a figure to smuggle them out of harms way. After the death of the Brick Daddy, a criminal power vacuum caused war to erupt between Squidman and the mysterious Mister Gray, who was Brick Daddy's shady accountant and a corrupt lawyer. As Mister Gray slowly took over the Black Hole Gang from rival Squidman, he forced the Space Police III (who were at war with Blacktron 3 at the time) to regroup into the totalitarian Space Police IV by way of joining sides with Blacktron 3 forces. This proved critical to anti-alien leaning leaders of the Space Congress' plan of eradicating both the Blacktron scourge and Black Hole Gang. In the end, the Blacktron retreated to the edges of known space, and the Black Hole Gang was 100% destroyed save two major members: Squidman, who was no longer a Black Hole Gang member when the Gang declared war of the Space Police, and Mister Gray, who sold out the gang's location to save himself. He is sometimes now called Mister "Grave" instead, but never to his face, as he alone was responsible for the saturation bombing of the Gang's hideout. This bombing killed most members and blew up it's ammo dump, thus destroying any evidence of Gray's complicity in any past crimes. After this, he decided his clean slate was not worth the blood on his hands, and thus helped found the resistance network to fight the Space Police IV forces. His immense wealth helps out those in need, and he personally smuggles people around in his limo. Here is the LDD file for the ship and it's owner link. Comments, questions, suggestions and complaints welcome!
  17. This was just a quick weekend project. I am fond of the 42037 set, as it was one the sets that got me interested in Technic. So, I decided to try to do it some justice, and I motorized it, first with an L-motor, which wasn't great, then with an XL-motor, which was about the same, then with 2 L-motors, which was the best. Then, I got a buggy motor. And since I had just taken apart a failed battlebot, and the buggy motor was lying there, begging to be used, I decided to use it. I rebuilt my 42037 Formula Off-Roader, with a few changes, which are as follows: 1. Changed the colors from light bley/med blue/lime/black to black/white/lime. 2. Removed the inline-4 fake engine. 3. Added full motorization, buggy motor for drive, servo for steering, AA battery box with a V2 receiver. 4. Bodywork changed a bit to fit the new colors and cover the gap left from removing the fake engine. And a light bar was added, because I didn't like the round spotlights. 5. Very minor, but I changed the rear shocks attachment point on the rear suspension arms, they were moved out one more stud than shown in the instructions, in order to have better travel and not be under compression, which was an issue in the original model. If anyone is interested, here is the LDD file instructions! Anyway, I know you're all tired of my rambling, so, with out further ado, I present to you the 42037 Ultimate Racing Buggy! 42037 F 42037 FQR It has easy access to the battery box, both to replace it and to turn it on and off. 42037 FQL The suspension is great, one of the best parts of the original set, which I kept and slightly improved. 42037 Mod 42037 FQR-s The source of power and speed! The almighty BUGGY MOTOR! 42037 Rear The required photo of the underside. The wheelbase and chassis are the same dimensions as the original set, though the buggy motor hangs out the back by a couple studs. 42037 Chassis I hope to make a video soon, but it started raining after I took photos, so maybe in a few days. But finals are coming up, so it may take some time. I will also add some cutaway photos soon, for anyone who wants to replicate my mod. Or, use the LDD file instructions. Thanks for looking at this, please give C&C, ask questions. More on my Flickr. - Leonardo da Bricki
  18. Hi, First and foremost, i'm French. I do my best to avoid grammatical and spelling error but some (a lot in fact) may subsist. I'm sorry for that by advance. Second, it's my first post here! Hopefully not the last. So here is my mod based on the set 21108 Ghostbusters Ecto-1 car. It's a fully custom made light mod. Key feature of this is: - NO modification of ANY Lego bricks. - NO kragle or drilling or any other funky stuff. - Everything must fit inside. - Hide the mod as much as it can be. - All should work as expected (the strobes strobe, the rotating beacon rotate, etc). The mod is made of 28 LEDs, all controlled by an Arduino board. All wire are INSIDE the car. // All images are clickable for a bigger version. Here is the exterior shots, everything is exactly like every set: The roof portion is still detachable without any hanging wire, it's also clean underneath. Nothing cheap to hide a messy mod: Everything is controlled by an Arduino Pro Mini (Not really a choice, it was the smallest Arduino board I had in home) that is hidden under a 4x2 plates: Same apply for the battery, that was what I had at the time of building. A smaller lipo can be fit so it's not a choice. Run time is... Well I don't know. It fit in the trunk of the car and it's the ideal size to be held by the window mounting point after a small change in the design. Neat! The roof is attached by a very thin wire and connectedto it via a small 45° home made adapter: To start the Arduino, there's a hidden Reed sensor which is (for who don't know) triggered by a magnet. I put a neodyme magnet in a small Lego round piece and when it's in place underneath, the controller is powered on. Yup, the Ecto-1 keyfob is a Lego piece with a magnet in it. Then the magic begin: Pictures don't do justice for the lighting sequence so here is a small video: For those of you where Youtube cry for a copyright infringement (soundtrack to match the car....), here is one that work (it was an earlier version without the embedded electronique like on these photos: If you have question, i'll be glad to answer them. Troll included.
  19. Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS Now that I have finished Box 1. and got the shifting mechanism and drive train working properly, I thought I might start my own thread about this project. I plan to submit the result to the Porsche of Your Dreams contest. With this project I aim for playability rather than authenticity. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? Probably not. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. I'm actually working on 2 versions, the minimal version and the ultimate version. The minimal version includes all 'must-have' modifications - or fixes - that I listed in the minimal sections below. The ultimate version will include rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting, a more sturdy chassis, a dashboard gear indicator, Ackermann steering and a stabilized gear rack. The ultimate version also includes all essential fixes, but sometimes implemented in a different way to fit the more advanced modifications. I will keep an index here on the OP of this thread of all the modifications I implemented or plan to implement. Ultimate version - Planned features Lockable doors Ultimate version - Implemented features 4th to 1st gear block Hand of God steering Hand of God shifting Sturdy without body Geared up engine Dash gear indicator Ackermann steering Stabilized gear rack Secured wishbones Improved clearance Improved shifters Removable body Ultimate version - Building directions (link) I do not plan for full-blown instructions. For now I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version. If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers: You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction. Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play. When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference. Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion. Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs. Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4, which are needed to make the body removable. Minimal version - Gear shifting MODs (link) I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). Minimal version - Friction reducing MODs (link) I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. Minimal version - Building instructions (link) For the minimal version I made building instructions in terms of errata. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. and on Rebrickable. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anhyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I also made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.
  20. In the era of dust, sand and rust there is no place for shiny and glossy supercars, decorated with chrome, carbon fiber and aluminum. Only one thing matters - durability. Any large enough scrap of metal that you find in the wasteland can harden your car and give you a few more minutes of life. But some cars, assembled from bits and pieces in garbage pits, still remain a work of art, reminiscent of a past life. I'm glad to present you my new mod of Madoka's Icarus supercar. Driven with 2x buggy-motors, it has minimal chassis changes, except upside-down portal hubs on rear axle. Model utilize about 10 metallic and pearl colors plus some unusual for Technic series, like tan and reddish brown And here is comparison with original model made by @Madoca 1977 You can see full gallery here I'll try to make some video in "desert" for fun, but don't sure about how soon it will happen. Hope you enjoy my mod! I will be glad to hear comments and suggestions about model!
  21. I was hesitant to buy the Imperial Assault Hovertank for some time but I caved and finally did a week ago. Its a great little vehicle in the movie, I actually think it blends really well into the Imperial War machine. For thirty dollars USD its a great value, but this isnt a review. Even as good as the set is there is a lot of room for improvement. What stuck out to me most prevalently is the top hatch, whereas in the movie its just a little hatch in the set its the entire cockpit's roof that opens. I know Lego's version is the hover tank variant but I really want to squeeze in tracks. I also want to rework the cockpit to fit three figures and if at all possible make another hatch for the spotter to stick his head out. Last year there was a wonderful thread full of fantastic modifications to the AT-ST released this past fall. While the AT-ST is a far more known and beloved part of Star Wars then the GAVw "Occupier, I would love to open this thread up to any modifications the community has. If you've modified the Imperial Tank, please, feel free to post your pictures. Lets try and improve an already great set to the best it can be.
  22. Hi all, be kind, this is the first time I've actually started a topic here, and shared pics of my lego fumblings. I've been away from lego for 20 years, and then my GF bought me the lego millenium falcon for christmas, and it's totally rekindled my love (for Lego, not the GF, I loved her already...). Like many, I found the S-foils on the most recent T-70 X-wings rather underwhelming. The X-wings in the movie look so cool, aggressive, dynamic, and the new engine pods and the way the wings fold to become one single plane in cruise mode is very slick indeed. The Lego version is significantly less slick in this regard, and this bothered me. As is well documented, the wings don't even meet, let alone combine into one, the lower wing is studs down, which means the ugly plate underside is on show, and the dreaded blue rubber bands, both look out of place at the back of the engine pods, and pull the wings at an angle. I will say that I like the folding mechanism as a play function, and did not want to loose it. So first off, the closed position: When they're closed, there is no gap, no angle difference, and to all intents and purposes, it appears as though it's one single wing, just as it should. And now, open Again, no angle change due to rubber band tension. The bands are still being used, but I found a way to integrate them such that they pull the wings closed as they should, but not unevenly, and within the forward profile of the wings so that they're not obvious. In fact they now look like some kind of power cables on the engine undesides. Here's some close ups: I'll go into more detail on this tomorrow if anyone's interested, but essentially the now studs up lower wings have some 2x1 modified plates with pin loops with pins going into 1x1 technic bricks as the method of attaching them, with one of the pins sticking out for the bands to locate on. The bands then go around the back of another pin that replaced a cream coloured short pin on the body of the ship, then go up inside the upper wing engine where there's one of thes guys for them to hook on to: It has as much tension as the original system, but looks alot slicker, though i will admit it is a bit trickier to put together. the bands also seem to hold the lower wing onto the engine a bit too, which is nice. The rear landing gear is rubbish on the original, and i wanted something that would retract cleanly. The real ship has landing gear that emerges from the slopes between the curved engine and the wing. This seemed impossible to duplicate at this scale, and with the stuff for the new folding mechanism, so did landing gear on the engines too, so i mounted it to the body, at its widest part. It folds up and becomes part of the body curve at the back, which is nice. I apologise for the crappy lighting, again, I'll get better pics if there's interest. I may swap the grey part for black, but I don't have any at the moment. Elsewhere on the ship, I moved the cockpit back one stud, and started playing around reprofiling the nose a little. This is the next area for my attention and is a work in progress. Please feel free to comment, I'm open for any constructive criticism!
  23. I was hoping to be the first. Not quite done but now there are others I will share.
  24. Hello good people of Eurobricks, The other day I built up the set 8051 motorbike applying some minor modification like different color scheme and some change on bodywork to make it look like more like a stuntbike. These changes did not alter the basic geometry and size. (apart from the rear fork what is one stud shorter.) Despite the fact that I caught the stuntbike feeling quite well (for my taste at least) I couldn't get along with the end product. I figured the wheels were slightly bigger (in diameter) than they supposed to be. So I grabbed my tape measure, digged up some pics on google of real bikes and came to the conclusion that these wheels are about 10 percent out of scale compare to the real proportion. The lack of width made the impression even worse to me. Trying to solve the problem I begun to play around with the old type bike wheels. I found their diameter is just the desired size but these were ridiculously narrow for the job. Searching in the forum here I've seen some builders used two of these rims with this tyre from the set 8448 Street sensation. The flat profile didn't make me happy though. Finally I worked out something using two rims and two tyres of the old type. The result has the right diameter, width, and rounded profile as it should be. (video at the end of the post) Here is a picture to illustrate the proportion problems: Upper left: Original 8051 Upper right: A random naked bike Lower left: my "pimped" 8051 with smaller wheels Lower right: The original wheels of 8051 built into a frame with realistic proportion As I said above the difference isn't huge, but it is there. Here is a few more pic to highlight the point I'm trying to make: I wonder if you guys share my opinion on this subject... Few more pics of these bikes: I know the front tyre sholdn't be this wide, but still better than a single (IMHO) Please note that this "connector bike" is still under development. It is meant to represent the size of bike I found appropriate to the wheel size. On the rear wheel I'm using the rear tyre of 8420 Street Bike. It fits perfectly on the new rim. Also I made a tutorial video, how to make that wide tyre modification: (Purist may find it disturbing . I can ensure you no harm done to any parts. Luckily those old tyres are so soft they can take any abuse.) Hope you can find some usefull in the post. Happy sunday.
  25. I really like this set, and even it has IMO a great gearbox, one of the first things I was thinking of after completing the build, was how to make it RC. I guess most of the six functions are straight forward, but operation of the claw is obviously more tricky. I tried to figure out if it was possible to operate the claw by the hoist string. I realized that it is possible to transfer motion to a pulley in the claw simply by pulling the string on one side of the pulley, and letting out on the other side. The claw should then in theory be kept at the same level, and the motion transfered to the pulley could be used to drive the m-LA. To achieve this, I have used two reels, each of them connected to the ouputs of a subtractor (geared down 1:3 with Z12 and Z36 double bevel gears). If using tracked vehicle implementation of a subtractor as a reference, the "drive" part is done with a M motor driving a worm gear that in turn drives a Z8 spur gear. The "turn" part is done by a XL motor, directly driving the differential housings. I probably could use a L motor as well, thus avoid the coasting of the XL. The string I have used, is simple string for packing purposes. I guess it is better (and more puristic) to use the thick LEGO string, as it looks better, is more solid and no twisting. Problem is, can I get a thick LEGO string that is long enough? Please don't judge from the aesthetics, the main goal for me at this stage was to demonstrate the idea, and I have not put a lot of effort in the looks, or making it compact. Link to video: Here is my own judge for the idea: Pros: IMO it looks more clean than a hanging motor with it's supplying wires. Both hoisting and claw operation may be done simultaneously. Able to operate two functions with a simple string. Adding mechanical complexity to the model, something I like. Cons: The torque delivered to the m-LA is limited, so the grip of the claw is not very strong. It should be apx. equal amount of string on both reals, to achieve claw operation without changing the level of the claw. Claw operation is depending on friction between the string and the claw pulley. If the the claw is resting on the ground or the object it should lift, it will not work. Probably not real-life-like implementation of claw operation. Another idea I have, still not tested, is to convert the hoist string into a closed loop. the claw implementation is the same, with a pulley driving the m-LA. On the tip of the boom, there is a pulley, driven by cross axles from the super structure (the reason for location on the tip of the boom is to reduce length of the string, and number of pulleys, to reduce friction). The hoist may then be done by two pulleys pulled along the boom, towards the super structure. One of the advantages of this implementation, if it works, is that "Con #2" above is eliminated. I don't know if this description makes sense to you, I will try to test this version also. Main problem is, how to make a long, closed loop of LEGO string, without any bumps. I appreciate any feedback, including cons. And I also hope to inspire some of you to come up with a better solution. PS: Somebody who knows how to embed a "visual" youtube link, like most of the others do (I didn't figure out)?