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Found 280 results

  1. I like to present you my Lego town Steinbruck. The name is from Stein=brick & bruck(old German)=bridge. This is my current layout: My MOC and MOD buildings (more detail pictures in the albums; just click the pictures to get there): I'm planning a car wash for the Service Station and will build it in the next months. I also build digital, but can't afford all of them to build with bricks. Click to album.
  2. Hello everyone! Welcome to this thread Here you'll find my wishlist for CMFs, which I illustrate with drawings. I'm not a professional designer but an amateur and I do this just for fun. The CMF theme is one of my favorite LEGO themes ever and collecting Minifigures is one of my favorite hobbies. I'm always looking forward to get some feedback which helps me to improve. SERIES A SERIES B SERIES C SERIES D SERIES E SERIES F SERIES G SERIES H - Coming Soon! SERIES I --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, here is the first wave. Let's call it SERIES A. Hope you'll like it SERIES A Enjoy exciting, new adventures with Series A of the Minifigures collectibles. This series includes the Gymnast, the Giraffe Suit Guy, the Troll, the Architect, the Southern Businessman, the Crossing Guard, the Town Crier, the Lifesaver Guy, the Piper, the Mime Girl, the Galactic Traveler, the Skydiver Girl, the Robotics Engineer, the Harpist, the Puppeteer and the Organ Grinder. Inside each ‘mystery’ bag you’ll find a minifigure with one or more accessories, plus a display plate and a collector’s leaflet 1. Gymnast Part assorment: New hula hoop piece, the S3 Sumo Wrestler hairpiece, regular head, torso and legs. 2. Town Crier Part assorment: New combo hairpiece: tricorn hat + ponytail, a new handbell, regular head, torso and legs. 3. Crossing Guard Part assorment: The Series 9 Policeman hat recolored in black, a 4L bar, a 2x2 octagonal tile with a clip, regular head, torso and legs. 4. Harpist Part assorment: New harp piece. Padme Amidala's bun hairpiece, regular head, torso and slope 5. Galactic Traveler Part assorment: New molded head: head + bubble combo, ray gun piece, 1x1 translucent stud, regular torso and legs 6. Southern Businessman Part assorment: New 10 gallon hat piece, 2 revolvers, the mustache piece, regular head, torso and legs 7. Mime Girl Part assorment: New hairpiece: beret + hair combo, regular head, torso and legs 8. Troll Part assorment: New molded head, club piece, regular torso and short legs 9. Lifesaver Guy Part assorment: New duck lifesaver piece, Poe Dameron hairpiece, flippers, regular head, torso, and legs 10. Puppeteer Part assorment: New Classic King puppet, new Jester puppet, top hat. Alfred's coattails cloth piece. Regular head, torso, and legs 11. Skydiver Girl Part assorment: S10 Skydiver helmet, parachute pack neckpiece, regular head, torso, and legs 12. Architect Part assorment: Gail the Construction Worker hairpiece recolored, suitcase piece, 2x4 tile, regular head, torso, and legs 13. Giraffe Suit Guy Part assorment: New giraffe mask, new giraffe tail, regular head, torso, and legs 14. Organ Grinder Part assorment: New music box neckpiece. Beret, classic monkey, regular head, torso, and legs 15. Piper Part assorment: Hunter's hat in dark blue, large feather, mouse, short cape, 3L bar, regular head, torso, and legs 16. Robotics Engineer Part assorment: Emmet's hard hat piece recolored, 1x1 round tile (x2), walkie talkie piece, S16 Babysitter's baby recolored, regular head, torso, and legs. And an extra head for the robot with red eyes Extra pic! The little robot's alternate head: And here is the group pic! The color is lavender, of course! This Series A would introduce 14 new moulds: hula ring, harp, duck lifesaver, beret+hair piece, music box, Classic King puppet, Jester puppet, ten gallon hat, tricorn hat+hair, handbell, Troll molded head, Galactic Traveler molded head, giraffe mask and tail So, that's it for now. I expect to post more of these later this year
  3. While waiting for more building materials for Inferno HQ we decided that it was time the Agents of Godwins Hollow upgraded their vehicles. The first two are some basic MODs/repaints to vehicles from existing sets but the third is a MOC dropship allowing the Agents to get significant numbers of personnel into the fray quickly. The 4x4 All Terrain Attack Vehicle Agents of Godwins Hollow - Vehicles Agents of Godwins Hollow - Vehicles The 'Spyder' Assault Speedster WP_20170603_22_25_59_Pro WP_20170603_22_25_26_Pro WP_20170603_22_22_51_Pro WP_20170603_22_20_13_Pro WP_20170603_22_19_53_Pro WP_20170603_22_16_43_Pro The 'Bulldog' Armored Personnel Dropship WP_20170603_22_11_22_Pro WP_20170603_22_07_44_Pro WP_20170603_21_51_06_Pro WP_20170603_21_51_03_Pro WP_20170603_21_49_49_Pro WP_20170603_21_49_44_Pro WP_20170603_21_49_37_Pro WP_20170603_21_47_51_Pro WP_20170603_21_44_46_Pro WP_20170603_21_44_36_Pro WP_20170603_15_56_11_Pro Everybody all together... WP_20170603_22_15_55_Pro WP_20170603_22_14_13_Pro by Stewart & Sydney, on Flickr There are more pics on Flickr if you're interested and always, your comments are appreciated. Thanks for taking a look.
  4. Hi all, this is my first MOC of the Lord of the Rings theme. It needed a lot of work and I'm quite proud of it. I built it starting from the original set and taking inspiration from different mocs that i found on web. Hope you like it!
  5. Hi all! First post from me, I've been hopelessly hooked on the new Star Wars Lego for a few years now, modding a few like Poe's X-Wing, but I wasn't sure about posting pics since that one especially has been modded to death :) I got the new Milano for my birthday (thanks kids!), it's an amazing little set but I think it just needs a couple of obvious tweaks to finish it off. Here's my effort, it's no movie replica but I've tried to build up the rear of the top to make it more substantial and added some fins. I also changed the main engine for a revolver stud shooter thing, added a couple of engines to the wings and turned the empty lower rear part into a hold for all the minifig weapons, Groot's boombox and Starlord's helmet. The annulax batteries went straight in the spares box with that horrible pink tentacle monster, yeuch! Lastly I filled in some empty internal gaps, like inside the ships 'chin', and changed those yellow hinge parts inside the wings for black ones. Hopefully the photos show off the big changes. I think it's a fun little set that was sadly missing some finishing touches, but with a few spare parts added looks so much better!
  6. I decided The Nexo Knights Volcano Lair playset needed a little something extra... I added a Skull tower with a throne and a platform for adding ingredients into a cauldron for mixing up magical mischief... Work in progress image... Best picture I could get of the throne
  7. Hi, First and foremost, i'm French. I do my best to avoid grammatical and spelling error but some (a lot in fact) may subsist. I'm sorry for that by advance. Second, it's my first post here! Hopefully not the last. So here is my mod based on the set 21108 Ghostbusters Ecto-1 car. It's a fully custom made light mod. Key feature of this is: - NO modification of ANY Lego bricks. - NO kragle or drilling or any other funky stuff. - Everything must fit inside. - Hide the mod as much as it can be. - All should work as expected (the strobes strobe, the rotating beacon rotate, etc). The mod is made of 28 LEDs, all controlled by an Arduino board. All wire are INSIDE the car. // All images are clickable for a bigger version. Here is the exterior shots, everything is exactly like every set: The roof portion is still detachable without any hanging wire, it's also clean underneath. Nothing cheap to hide a messy mod: Everything is controlled by an Arduino Pro Mini (Not really a choice, it was the smallest Arduino board I had in home) that is hidden under a 4x2 plates: Same apply for the battery, that was what I had at the time of building. A smaller lipo can be fit so it's not a choice. Run time is... Well I don't know. It fit in the trunk of the car and it's the ideal size to be held by the window mounting point after a small change in the design. Neat! The roof is attached by a very thin wire and connectedto it via a small 45° home made adapter: To start the Arduino, there's a hidden Reed sensor which is (for who don't know) triggered by a magnet. I put a neodyme magnet in a small Lego round piece and when it's in place underneath, the controller is powered on. Yup, the Ecto-1 keyfob is a Lego piece with a magnet in it. Then the magic begin: Pictures don't do justice for the lighting sequence so here is a small video: For those of you where Youtube cry for a copyright infringement (soundtrack to match the car....), here is one that work (it was an earlier version without the embedded electronique like on these photos: If you have question, i'll be glad to answer them. Troll included.
  8. I’m not sure if this deserves an own topic because there is already the MODs and improvements-topic for the 42056 Porsche (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/133743-42056-porsche-911-gt3-rs-mods-and-improvements/). But because that topic is after almost 30 pages quite cluttered and from time to time always the same complaints and questions about the flaws of 42056 came up I thought I could be worth to make a write up about a Porsche-package which is flawless full featured easy to rebuild preserving 100% the really gorgeous looks of the stock model moderate in additional costs based onto the incredible valuable work of @Didumos69 and its unofficial errata and some other MODs made by him Feature summary: If you apply all MODs listed below then you will get a Porsche with: Smooth and full working gear-train for a freely pushable car in all gears with and 100% reliable gear-shifting, no gearbox stalls anymore, correct gear sequence, no endless shifting Gear indicator at the dashboard for checking gear-state at a glance Realistic reverse-mode behavior of the center gear-mode-stick which prevents from engaging reverse-mode from all gears but first gear A new paddle-shifter module which has better and more realistic looks and slightly lighter operation Much better front-axle layout with strong enough suspension for the weight, preserved ground clearance, better geometry, less bump steer, better steering lock and ackerman steering A more rigid chassis which does not bent even without body A Hand of Good (HoG) for easy steering which results in much better playablity Very fast and easy removable (and of course attachable) bodyby just pulling (rsp. pushing) 11 red pins with bush: important for mechanics demonstration Lockable Doors Foldable bonnet holder for lockable bonnet in open state Filled black "hole" below headlights First of all some background, some remarks about the problems of the stock version of the Porsche, so about the reasons for such a topic. Luckiliy there are solutions for all problems of the stock Porsche: The first serious problem (gearbox and shifting) is completely fixed by the errata of @Didumos69 but the second serious one (front axle) is only fixed by his ultimate playable Porsche. But luckily again there is a Porsche out there which contains all these needed fixes and solutions (and some more) in one package which is available with full blown PDF-BI at rebrickable: @jb70 “Pimp up my Porsche”. BTW: with this package none of the above mentioned workarounds of TLG are necessary; they are completely thrown away. I would recommend everyone who wants to build the Porsche, who wants to build a flawlessly and very well working Porsche: Do not waste time by building the stock Porsche but start with the “Pimp up my Porsche” by @jb70 – and do all your own MODing onto this base… ;-) Well, here we go… The base package Go to rebrickable and get the BI for the “Pimp up my Porsche” MOD by @jb70 : http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8003/jb70/42056-pimp-up-my-porsche/#comments - The BI are free and also free from errors and flaws (there are only four very small exceptions, see below). Remark: You will need only 179 very common and mostly cheap parts in addition to the 42056 set to build this Porsche by jb70 – the overall costs would be about 20 to 30€ when you need to buy all additional parts – the real costs strongly depend on your spare parts inventory ;-) Just built this "Pimp up my Porsche" from jb70 - very enjoyable build, great instructions, incorporates all essential MODs you need to change the mediocre retail 42056 in a really great set, now also functionwise: stronger front suspension (retail is much too weak) with much better geometry with less bump steer und Ackerman steering - also with much better steering lock outstanding gear indexer (= 90 degree limiter) so gear-switching is now 100% reliable, so NO gearbox stalling anymore fixed step-5 error in the BI and in addition much better gear-arrangement of the whole gearbox for frictionless spinning of the complete drivetrain in all gears - the car now runs absolute free and smooth when pushed over the table - even in 1st gear preventing from endless gear-sequence (ie. now you can’t switch from 4 to 1 or from 1 to 4 corrected gear-sequence reinforced chassis so the chassis does not bend even without body HoG (essential for playablity) fast and easy removeable body (essential for demonstrating all the internal goodies) All fixes from the unofficial errata of Didumos69 are applied and in addition some important goodies of his ultimate playable Porsche - all that stuff compiled into great PDF-instructions, even for free! This means all problems I described above are fixed, Many Thanks @Didumos69 , many thanks @jb70 ! Well, there are 4 small errors rsp. recommendations for changes within the BI of jb70: 1. Error in BI: The blue 2L pin at step 59 (page 60) is not needed 2. Error in design and BI: The front-calipers are mounted in a faulty manner: they will rub against the inner side of the rims which prevents the car from running smoothly when pushed along. Solution: use a thin 1x2 liftarm and an axle with towball (instead of a pin with towball) for connecting the steering links to the hub and then build the front calipers as shown in the stock BI (page 152, step 212) and Bob will be your uncle – see pic below: 3. Recommendation: I recommend to omit the pin-clutch of Didumos69 - This means replace at step 38 (page 32) the two blue pins with one axle 4L --> the Didumos-errata-based jb70-Porsche does not need this clutch because the gear-box works now 100% reliable and it never stalls... in contrary: the clutch has the disadvantage that it can chips in when not necessary cause of too low friction of the pins! Without this clutch all is working like a charm and the pistons just fly ;-) But of course it is not necessary to omit this clutch - but then you should ensure that you use two pins with really high friction!. 4. Recommendation: jb70s Porsche already contains the wonderful MOD of Hispabricks for a fast and easy removeable body – but this can be optimized a little bit: Just fix the seats completely at the body so not connection between seats and chassis remains. For that do not mount the LBG 2x4 liftarm in step 19 (page 7) and all parts attached to it. They are not needed anymore. Mount the seats in step 47 at page 173 as shown in the pic below - see yellow circle. Now the body is even faster removeable and completely independed from the chassis (Thanks to @DayWalker for this small but valuable MOD). That’s all – apart from these small changes the BI of jb70 are errorfree: ready for a full and flawless working Porsche. When finished jb70s Porsche you have already a Porsche with smooth and flawless working features and with great playability. If you want to go further you can easily apply the following MODs which add a lot of realism and even better operation. Additional MODs on top of the “Pimp up my Porsche” base-package: Dashboard gear-indicator and realistic reverse-mode behavior: A well visible(!) gear indicator is IMO an essential feature for a sequential gear box. The following MOD offers exactly this and the needed mechanic is fully invisible: the needed mechanic is completely hidden behind the black curved panels of the center console. The stock behavior of the reverse mode is completely unrealistic because it allows to engage reverse regardless of the current active gear – IMO the requirements are as follows: reverse gear has a high reduction-ratio (in this case the same as first gear) engaging reverse (or neutral) mode is not possible if another gear than 1st is engaged, ie. it does NOT allow to shift from 4th (and also not from 3rd and 2nd) gear to neutral and back in reverse mode you are prevented from switching gears - so in reverse-mode you HAVE JUST ONE possible gear-ratio (see 1) This MOD implements exactly this. And it does it so that it is fully invisible and the needed mechanic is completely hidden behind the black curved panels of the center console. Here is a pic which shows both MODs built into the jb70-Porsche – you see that you don’t see anything unless the blue indicator at the dashboard – which is good in this case ;-). Here I have described both MODs in detail and also how to integrate into the jb70-Porsche: Here can you find a a lot of pics of the internals and instruction hints how to integrate both MODs into the jb70-Porsche base: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Kumbbl/MODs/porsche-42056/gear-indicator-and-reverse-gear-mode Here is an example pic of my bricksafe-folder so you can see how detailed the explanations are: Kudos and many thanks to @DayWalker who has developed both of these MODs. I have only integrated them into the jb70-Porsche and have done only some very small improvements. Both MODs can be very easily integrated in jb70's Porsche implementation. The few needed changes are very obvious and easy to manage. But you have to take into account them from the beginning, ie. from page 1 of the BI of jb70. All integration changes have to be done between step 1 and 23 (pages between 1 and 17) – especially the gear indicator can not be integrated later one – there are essential changes at page 1 of the BI of jb70 which can’t be done in no way later on! New paddle shifter unit with lighter operation and more realistic angled steering wheel @Didumos69 has developed an improved paddle-shifter unit: Well, it’s a quite clever mechanism which allows slighty lighter operations. But its main advantage is the better look cause of the angled steering wheel and the almost (because of inside mounted) invisible rubber bands. So this new paddle-shifter shifts an already very good and 100% reliable stock shifter (but only with Didumos’ innovative 90 degree limiter and indexer which is part of the jb70s package) to an almost perfect gearbox-shifter. Overall I rate it as very well designed and a nice addon which is really worth of building and integrating into the jb70-Porsche but IMHO it’s not a must have because the retails shifter contained in the jb70-Porsche works really well. Here are two pics of the new shifter module: Anyway, here I have described in detail how to integrate into the jb70-Porsche: Lockable doors and foldable bonnet holder: @el Squatterhas developed a very clean and nifty MOD for lockable doors. They are dead simple to integrate into the jb70-Porsche without any side effects. Myself has developed a very small but nevertheless usefull MOD – a foldable bonnet holder. The holder can be very easily locked in open state. I added this MOD because the opened bonnet with rear spoiler is the only way to get a glimpse of moving pistons when the body is mounted. But the bonnet+rear spoiler is too heavy for staying reliable open when the car is pushed around (because it is just hold by the friction of two pins). Therefore I added the following lockable holder. For locking the opened bonnet just pull the center joint a little bit backwards then it will be locked and the bonnet will stay opened. For closing just fully open the bonnet and the holder will automatically fold down when you close the bonnet. Here I have described both MODs in detail: Cosmetic: Filling the large black gap below the headlights Several people have complained about the huge black hole below the head-lights. Me too. Therefore I have added a dead simple fix for it: I really don’t understand why TLG has not applied this very cheap and also very obvious enhancement which make the model looking even more awesome. Summary: Overall I would rate this Porsche now as an excellent supercar with outstanding exterior and great and very well working functions which can easily compete with all of the supercar MOCs out there… And most important: A successfull build doesn’t depend anymore on your luck but only on your building skills and your ability to follow exactly and carefully the provided BI (supplemented by some photos for integrating some MODs into the base package of jb70) And If you want to give your Porsche the icing onto the cake I recommend you the wonderful stickers by Walter Spierenburg (see topic link below the pic) which really adds very much optical value – see pic below: @Jim: I have used a pic from your original topic - i hope this is ok but your photos are so good i could not resist ;-) - here is the original topic for this wonderful stickers (really high quality and fast shipping - i'm really hooked. Last but not least: Many thanks and kudos to @Didumos69, @jb70, @DayWalkerand @el Squatter which brought all these wonderful MODs to the table. I have only complied them into one - now full featured - model and integrated them into the great basis “Pimp up my Porsche” by jb70.
  9. Hi Despite being well into middle age I have only recently started building. 42043 was my second ever Technic set, and once I finished it I decided to modify the look slightly. I don't have anywhere near the skill or experience to create a genuine MOC, so decided to just spruce it up a bit cosmetically. It is not based on anything realistic. Please be kind - i just wanted to share some pics, but I realise it isn't particularly good. Everyone has to start somewhere! Next up is 42056, with all mods suggested for ultimate playability and displayability on this forum. Cheers
  10. Presenting the 8258-B Crawler, Designed and built as an entry for the 'Crawlify your set' contest [AMS1] I'm a huge fan of b-models in general, but the 8258-B has always been one of my favourites due to great looks and an easy to modify. Or so I thought... In the end, I reckon about 85% of the chassis has been custom built. There are two L motors situated just below the cabin. One powers the front axle, one powers the rear. Both axles have differentials because, being independently powered, loss of traction is a lot less likely and it saves my poor pieces from becoming mangled. Because the 8258-B is rather small (read: narrow) I had a lot of trouble designing a front axle that could house a servo motor without limiting the range of suspension travel. Eventually I gave up and ended up modifying this axle to accommodate a differential (well deserved credit to the amazing @Madoca 1977). However with that said, I have made sure the bodywork stays almost 100% true to the original. The only alteration I had to made was to the rear wheelarches to make room for the balloon tyres: Original wheelarch Modified wheelarch: Also, the front winch kept scraping on obstacles I was trying to climb over so I switched this out for a bullbar, however the two are easily interchangeable. Anyways, here's a video of this thing in action. As always, please let me know what you think. Whether it's praise, criticism or telling me off for building ANOTHER red and black model (I have other colours, I swear!!), I'd love to hear it. More images can be found in this bricksafe folder. Enjoy =)
  11. Hello Everyone! I have finally finished building my First Order Transporter, all from pieces from my collection. Took some time to find the fight parts, but I'm happy with the results! The body has been modified to be longer and hold more troops, around 8-10 depending on how cramped it is, or on what troops/weapons are used. Features all the same features of the actual set, but modified be be more movie accurate, such as the turret at the top. Also a good opportunity to show off my Megablaster for the heavy artillery trooper. Been waiting for the Rogue One Rebel Battlepack to come out so i can get that new gun piece to build this.
  12. I'm not terribly impressed by the 2017 LEGO City Police Station. The set's layout is confusing, the jail cells are oddly positioned at street level outside of the station complex, and many of the building's rooms are unrealistically designed (how are your minifigs meant to get between floors? Or from the helipad on the roof inside the station?).That's why I made an alternate build, using only the pieces that came with set 60141.My police station is more aptly described as a local branch office. Why try to do too much with the parts they gave us in the set? My modification has two floors, an internal cell that is off from the street, and a functional ladder to allow pilots access the building from the helipad.Let me know what you think - and do check out the video review of this MOC!
  13. Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS Now that I have finished Box 1. and got the shifting mechanism and drive train working properly, I thought I might start my own thread about this project. I plan to submit the result to the Porsche of Your Dreams contest. With this project I aim for playability rather than authenticity. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? Probably not. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. I'm actually working on 2 versions, the minimal version and the ultimate version. The minimal version includes all 'must-have' modifications - or fixes - that I listed in the minimal sections below. The ultimate version will include rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting, a more sturdy chassis, a dashboard gear indicator, Ackermann steering and a stabilized gear rack. The ultimate version also includes all essential fixes, but sometimes implemented in a different way to fit the more advanced modifications. I will keep an index here on the OP of this thread of all the modifications I implemented or plan to implement. Ultimate version - Planned features Lockable doors Ultimate version - Implemented features 4th to 1st gear block Hand of God steering Hand of God shifting Sturdy without body Geared up engine Dash gear indicator Ackermann steering Stabilized gear rack Secured wishbones Improved clearance Improved shifters Removable body Ultimate version - Building directions (link) I do not plan for full-blown instructions. For now I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version. If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers: You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction. Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play. When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference. Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion. Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs. Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4, which are needed to make the body removable. Minimal version - Gear shifting MODs (link) I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). Minimal version - Friction reducing MODs (link) I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. Minimal version - Building instructions (link) For the minimal version I made building instructions in terms of errata. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. and on Rebrickable. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anhyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I also made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.
  14. Hi Guys! Here is where you can post your MODs of the LEGO Marvel Vulture! Here is the "original": I used ingot pieces in black for the texture instead. What do you think? Thanks for looking! :) C&C very welcome!
  15. Dear All, it has been a very long time since my last “productive” post on EB – I have been lurking ever since from time to time - but no contributions from my side. It is time to share some of the stuff that has slowly accumulated over the recent years. These are some locomotive and rolling stock ideas/MODs/MOCs. Below is a short summary of what and why; the instructions were meant to go on the RailBricks repository but that seems to be no longer an option. Instead, I am using my cloud space at work; a click on the link below the images should get you to a corresponding folder with the MLCad/LDraw file(s) and the LPub instruction PDF(s). Note that there are 300DPI as well as low-res versions of the PDF files; the latter are much more bandwidth friendly. Also note that there may be numerous errors/faults – I am using these files as references and aid for my rather limited building capabilities. Generally, I am building in a rather weird way, I guess. Most of the parts I am using, particularly for rolling stock, are spare parts from LEGO sets I got as present or simply purchased for other parts. Rarely the sets I am buying survive as a whole. It may also be an excuse to regularly visit the local TrU or LEGO stores nearby … for some reason it is still very exciting to me to browse through their shelves – that is also the reason for not ordering sets or parts online that often. There are exceptions of course. BrickLink is more of a last (and beautiful) resort. I have simply more fun figuring out ways of using individual pieces that initially appeared to be useless even for a longer time. Also, I hardly use scaled schematics for building – it is just my personal look and feel that should be “right”. So all my models may well appear as inaccurate or unrealistic in some way or the other – but they are just that: LEGO MOCs and MODs … and I am sure, that many building ideas have already been shown – either here on EB, in the various BrickShelf galleries, or somewhere else. I have not checked thoroughly though – just let me know and I’ll add the references. There are currently no photographs of the real trains. I am planning on taking these along with some impressions of my expanded “home office layout” – hopefully sooner than in a couple of years from now. This a rather long post, I am sorry. But I simply did not want to open several threads on rather minor things. Locomotives/Trains 1) GP38 “BNSF” (#10133) MOD LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) I personally believe that the BNSF GP38 is one of the most inspiring train models TLC ever made. It appears as if many builders have modded, extended, and (re)designed their models based – at least partly – on the layout of this engine. I have also merged some of the beautiful design elements from the SD40-2 “Maersk” train (set #10219; these are the cab lights, front section, truck elements with new discrete brick/plate pilot design) along with a new frame comprised of discrete plates, re-bricked the fuel tanks, and added front PF lights. The concept of powering the locomotive is either pure “9V” or “PF”. A PF version requires a controller of some sort; either custom approaches (e.g., Arduino) or plain vanilla PF controllers/batteries located in separate cars etc. When running on its own with onboard battery and controller, the color scheme suffers severely on the 4-wide body section of the locomotive, which could be covered by custom stickers of course. The modified SD40-2 “Maersk” train introduced further below may also serve for “controlling” purpose. On my layout an SD40-2/GP38 pair is hauling rather heavy loads: The SD40-2 as PF controller with onboard battery and two motors and the GP38 with just one additional motor hooked up to the SD40-2. The V2 version of the PF receiver is handling 3 motors rather flawlessly when fed with the rechargeable LEGO LiPo battery. The required building steps are included in the SD40-2 instruction section, see below. 2) SD40-2 “Maersk” (#10219) MOD LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) The major SD40-2 changes are the discrete plate frame (this way it became possible to add the neat white stripes the original locomotive features), changes to the trucks (they are one stud shorter and have a discrete brick/plate pilot), changes to the main body behind the cab, which is now only 4 studs wide, and to the fuel tanks. The engine is PF controlled, runs on the LEGO LiPo rechargeable battery, which is in turn charged through power-pickup from the 9V rails using a modified 9V train motor, cf. this EuroBricks topic, PF V2 receiver, and second PF train motor, along with PF head lights. The additional second PF receiver output wired to the rear section may be optionally used to operate a third motor; the GP38 shown above is an example. The color scheme of the 4 studs wide section behind the cab is suffering from the dark/light grey sections of the PF elements; however, I pretty much like the “used look” that results from that though. I never really like the original LEGO design of the body, where the receiver etc. is covered by large plates – to me, it appeared simply too wide for an overall 6 studs wide model. Note: There is an additional PDF which shows the required modifications to pair the SD40-2 with the GP38 shown above 3) Cargo Train (#4512) MOD 1 (engine), 2 (battery car), 3 (box car), 4 (box car type2), whole set LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) The “major” changes to this very classic 9V train are the addition of a PF “battery car” in the same color scheme of the original locomotive and box car, and some undercarriage changes to the latter. There is also a second version of the box car. I really do like the old-dark grey/green color scheme of this train. Fortunately, my father has given me his Sopwith Camel (set #3451) as “brick supply”; this way also the second box car version became reality in the grey/green color scheme. The front section of the locomotive is raised by one plate and the front handrail changed. 4) High Speed Passenger Train (#7897) MOD 1 (engine), 2 (coach A), 3 (coach B), whole set LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) Ages ago the “real,-“ department store close by not necessarily well known for their LEGO set inventory had the RC high speed “ICE” like train set on sale … I got two for very little money. Well, the one-piece front cab of this train (part #55768) has been discussed “controversially” – carefully phrased – but nevertheless, as far as I am concerned, with some modding a more or less decent passenger train resulted from merging the two sets. Everything has become a little “longer”, particularly the coaches. Also, the coaches have discrete plate frames and their trucks are rather heavily modified – based on the design of James Mathis’ Santa Fe cars (sets #10022/#10025). The four additional white 6x8x4 cylinders with flattened upper half (part #45411) required for a train consisting of two engines and three coaches came from two City tank truck sets (set #60016) – I could not get hold of the white cylinders with flattened lower half (part #45410) so the third car has a modified lower section. [Note: Unfortunately the “RC train base” (part #55455c01) is not available as official LDraw part – and I guess it never will be. I simply assembled that part from bricks and plates for the instruction and treated it as part in LPub … no idea how to do it differently. Also the “ugly” front nose is not even an unofficial LDraw part, I found the LDraw.dat file at digital-bricks. Rolling Stock 1) 4 Axle Tank Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction The tank design is close to that of the #10016 tank car set; there are some additions to the top section. The frame is made rather conveniently mainly from Technic pieces. 2) 2 Axle Tank Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction This is a plain vanilla 2-axle tank car – I guess there were many similar designs posted in this forum. 3) TankTainer Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction This one is a result purchasing the #3368 Space Center set – I was looking for the #64448 support/fence part (or whatever it is called) in red for a bridge structure – and these were left overs – as were the (sloped) tank half shells … looks a little weird but this way the car is more or less 6 wide and the tanktainer is easily removable. The frame is again mostly comprised of Technic pieces 4) Flatbed Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction The flatbed car is entirely made-up … it started with the four #91176 support parts from the 2011 Red Cargo Train #3677 set – did not know what to do with them … the cargo is – hmmm – cylinders? Had too many of the round 2x2 bricks and round bright green 1x1 plates … 5) Spine Car (with girders) MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction I guess the 5 “Toy Story 3” sets I purchased one after another for €20 each at TrU. No idea why that was, they had them for more than a year somewhat hidden in the “bulk-brick” section and each time I was there I could not resist … lots of bley plates for another bridge and for a rather big train station … but also tons of the 2x2x10 girders … 6) Gondola Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction As already mentioned, for the high speed passenger car MOD shown above I needed extra white 6x8x4 cylinders. At that time, the original ICE-type high speed train set was gone for long; the City tank truck set #60016 featured two of these cylinders each though; white with flattened upper half and green with flattened lower half. The white ones were perfect for the passenger cars, the greens were “left overs”. Which brought me to the gondola car – again entirely made up and again with a Technic element frame. 7) Tipper Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction This car is the result of eight yellow tipper end sloped pieces (part #3436) from the #4565 Freight & Crane Railway set (which was my first train set after my Dark Ages). For long, I did not know what to do with those. Then I saw tipper cars on BrickShelf, looked them up on the internet and this is the result. I guess they are rather “European” if not “German” … small and compact. The yellow color is not appropriate at all, but that’s how it is. This is it for the moment. Thanks for reading! Regards, Thorsten
  16. Hi. Do you remember 2016 pullback combine model? Yea, 42046+42047 extreme police racer. Looks AWESOME and I built it. And after some playing, I found AAA/rechargeable batterybox can fit if remove pullback motor. And after some more trying, I success make steering system with servo motor. Hear is resault. The Extreme Police RC Racer. Sorry for bad video. But drive very well. Can use both L motor or RC motor for drive, servo motor for steering, Sbrick or V2 receiver. Insturction here http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8146/msk6003/extreme-police-rc-racer/ 75 part, 153 step, photo sequence.
  17. Full post here Who has the coolest gadgets? BATMAN!! Who has the tricked-out ride? BATMAN!! Well, like him or hate him, you gotta admit the Batmobile is pretty darn cool. Especially in Justice League, with all the extra guns slapped on top. I thought the JL Batmobile looked rather awesome, but when pics of the Flying Fox set came out, I wasn’t thrilled by LEGO’s official version. But this is LEGO, so I modded the 76045 Kryptonite Interception set and added the extra guns! Check it out! BEFORE AFTER You can see I added the cannon above the cockpit, the guns on either side, as well as the main cannons in front. Some of the reference images clashed so this was the best I could do. Thanks for looking! Let me know your thoughts in a comment below!
  18. As a camper van, the 31052 Vacation Getaways set is far too big for my taste. But as an exception to the rule (the rule being that alternative 3in1 models are uninspiring and poorly made) the Hillside House style small building looked sort of nice in the pictures, and the sand blue windows and door frame were enticing. So in all the places of the world, I found this set for a good price in Switzerland, which otherwise must be the most expensive country in Europe... €41 for one set. I got one and built the house. It felt even smaller than I had thought, but with another set, it could be expanded... So I bought a second set, but didn't end up expanding the house. Instead, I started playing around with LDD. The result is a 16-wide three-storey modular building based on the idea of using the sand blue windows. The back side is very plain, as are the sides of the building. There is no interior, save for steps that take you from floor to floor, apart from the ground floor, which doesn't have any steps... I'm not too fond of creating interiors for residential buildings, since they are all more or less the same, so this will most likely remain empty. I hope you like it!
  19. I was impressed enough by the new 75175 A-Wing set enough to buy it, but there are several flaws that can be addressed resulting in a much improved model. One aesthetic issue that stood out even from the earliest released images is the stepped transition of the curved slopes on the top of the hull. And while I really like the new fin parts and the attempt to angle them inwards, the official set's solution results in too much angle, a flimsy connection, and rather odd-looking brick-built engines. The landing gear is also less than ideal, with rear struts that don't fully retract and a front strut mounted higher than the rear, resulting in the model sitting very nose-down when landed. So I've addressed all of these points and included a few extra improvements to produce the version below. Features: Removed slope transition on top hull Brick-built engines replaced with cylinder bricks Engines/fins connected securely at corrected angle Fully retractable rear landing gear Front landing gear lowers to same height as rear Wider mounting of laser cannons Engine detail included under rear cover FREE LDraw instructions HERE.
  20. I was excited when Carl Greatrix' Caterham Seven was selected by Lego Ideas to become a set, and have been patiently awaiting its release. While there are many aspects of the model that are really great — all printed parts with no stickers, amazing detail in the engine bay, clever building techniques, and a great colour scheme — I have to say I felt a bit underwhelmed with the completed build. The designers seem to have sacrificed overall proportions in some areas for structural rigidity and sturdiness, and yet despite this many parts remain quite flimsy. However, with a bit of effort and some spare parts it isn't too hard to correct the flimsy bits and improve the proportions with no significant loss of sturdiness. This thread is to assist anyone who may also be less than entirely satisfied with the official build, and would like a few tips on how to improve their model. Here is a list of improvements featured in the above revised model: Reduced colour barf throughout the model's interior Front axle and fenders widened by one stud Nose section locked in place more securely Removed ugly underside front rail to nose transition Lowered overall height of the bonnet by one plate Dashboard redesigned and connected more securely Secured forward connection of the side exhaust Filled in gap between the bonnet and dashboard Replaced seats with design matching prototype version Reduced gaps between the rear wheel arches and wheels The end result is, I think, a better looking and sturdier model that I am much more satisfied with, and one which I am very pleased to display on my shelf. Below is a link to the LDraw instruction file for anyone interested in modifying their set to this version. DOWNLOAD LINK
  21. I created this modified Bucket Wheel Excavator some time ago, and I thought I would like to share it on this forum. After building the original BWE, I wanted to try to incorporate some Mindstorms functions into it. I managed to motorise all the active functions, using both an EV3 brick and motors, as well as some PF motors. Functions can be preprogrammed, or can be remotely controlled using an EV3 IR remote. Here is a list of the functions: Bucket wheel rotation and main conveyor belt - PF XL motor Lower conveyor belt - PF medium motor Boom arm elevation - EV3 large motor Lower conveyor swivel - EV3 large motor Superstructure rotation - EV3 medium motor Driving - EV3 medium motor Since I owned an NXT as well, I used it to motorise the small mining truck that was included in the set. There are also some LEDs that illuminate the 'work area', but they don't really do a good job, its just a nice thing to include. Here is a video of the excavator in action, as well as the mining truck (sorry about the poor resolution and bit rate): More info about the machine can be found here: https://www.us.lego.com/en-us/mindstorms/community/robot?projectid=3e125a5b-475c-4a4c-b3ed-e4b4f2192907 Let me know what you think of it in the comments!
  22. I added some parts to set 5982 (Smash and Grab) and then decided on changing the color to dark gray to turn it back into a regular tow truck. I removed the flick-fire missiles, and played around with a couple of options for a driver figure, eventually settling on who you see here. "What happens when you vintage flying car runs out of plutonium, or you space limo engine gets too hot? How about if someone runs over the time on the parking meter and you need to park you hover bike? Never fear, the tow truck's here! Complete with sonic wrench and ultra-violet flashlight, this hauling machine will haul your (or someone else's!) problem away for a reasonable price. Yes sir! Just call Louis "Brains" McCoy to tow your problematic machine away... and remember, if in doubt on who to trust to tow your garage queen: Ask for the real McCoy!" The flick fire missiles used to come out of those orange globes on the front. I changed them into regular hazard lighting by securely attaching them to the frame. The ship can seat one figure in the cockpit. The rear of the ship features two engines and the crane arm. The driver of this tow truck is Louis "Brains" McCoy, brother to a famous doctor on a star-ship in another reality. A accident with a temperamental gravity-drive ship brought him to this reality and turned him into a living un-dead, though he retained all his knowledge and personality in the change. (Do NOT call him a zombie though, as it hurts his rather sensitive feelings.) The LDD file is available here if you want it. Comments, questions, suggestions, and complaints are always welcome!
  23. This ship was originally inspired by a single picture of set 76084 (The Ultimate Battle for Asgard) from the Marvel Superheroes theme. The ship was then heavily modified into it's current form, with a single tail fin and trans-red canopy. The front of the ship features a "three golden circles" symbol of the alien pilot's native culture on either side of the saucer ring. Their is room for a single pilot mini-figure at the controls behind the opening canopy. The rear of the ship features two rows of engines and a single tail fin. The alien life-form shown here has a name that is unpronounceable to most species, as she talks with his mind at a very fast pace, so everyone calls her "Hyper". This may also have something to do with her love of caffeinated drinks, as her body chemistry allows for him to drink coffee and soda at levels that would cause a human to go into diabetic shock or die. These sugary drinks only make her move faster and still keep a clear head with no addictive tendencies. (Some say one of this species drank so much caffeine his mind shifted into a higher plane of existence, and his body became pure energy.) Anyway, as you can guess, Soda and Coffee companies love his species, so most have become experimental taste testers or company representatives. Hyper makes her living as a chemist, working on new flavors of coffee and soda to sell to the drink companies. Here is the LDD link for figure and ship. Comments, questions and complaints welcome!
  24. Hello everybody, I didn't notice yet any MOD page of the Volvo EW160 excavator. I find this a really good set and as I'm an excavator lover, I couldn't resist to add a few modifications. I have already done 2- 3 and I have others in my mind. Here are the first ones I took away the cab elevating mechanism. I find the excavator better proportioned this way. It looks a lot more like the real machine and IMHO also a lot nicer. The cab was in the original model too much forward and got in the way of good playability. I still have to get rid of the grey beam behind the cab. I also put a swivel and turning mechanism on the grab, which also looks better and approaches the looks of the real machine. The mods I'm planning is to arrange the hoses on the boom and add rigid hoses.
  25. Hello Eurobricks! This is my first post, so i figured the best way to start is to display my Imperial Star Destroyer. I based it off set 6211, basically making it more detailed, and building a second top panel to place on the bottom to get the movie accurate shape. I view its as a sort of UCS set for those who can't afford the actual UCS Star Destroyer. There is not interior features, due to the demanding structure of the ship. I tried to get the engine to be mostly movie accurate: Enjoy!