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Found 5 results

  1. Hey guys! After a few weeks of break I'm back and working on my test-setup for train signaling. As some of you know, I've built a small test track on my desk and wired up a lot of sensors and LEDs to program and develop a signaling system for trains. I'm finally at a point where I can drive trains over a layout that has block signaling fully working and completely automated too. Here's a video: When the train passes over the block sensor, a flag is set and it's only when the flag is removed (i.e. the train has fully passed over the signal and an additional time of 1 second has passed), that the signal switches to red and vice versa. The code only makes the block-section check it's sensors and flags get set and removed automatically meaning I have minimal code maintenance to do if I want to change anything. I have a lot more signals planned for the future including switch track signals, crossings and station signals. If you're interested, I can provide a PDF with all the signals I came up with. Let me know what you think. All feedback is appreciated.
  2. Hello everyone, Let's me introduce my new moc; Motorised Christmas music stand with RC and LEDs, Must see the video: https://www.facebook.com/shineYu ... ?type=2&theater
  3. This is my entry for Episode IV of SoNE Sector C: Communications station The fleeing rebels run through an endless maze of corridors and chambers and eventually stumble upon the main Communications centre. The unarmed Imperial Officers don't stand a chance against the evil rebels and prepare for the inevitable end. However, in the last moment one of the officers activates a trusty mouse droid and, at the sight of it, the rebels flee in terror I'm quite pleased with this, although it's been almost impossible to photograph.....as usual illuminated with Technic LEDs. I'd originally intended to build several searchlights to illuminate the main tower, but the LEDs aren't bright enough so I had to give up on that idea! I spent ages on the internal rocks, I know that it's very odd but it was probably the most fun part of the build. I'm still not 100% happy with the main communication tower, but this is about v15 and it's driving me nuts! Main shot (The rebels flee in terror, at the first sight of the little mouse droid): Daytime shot (I'm quite pleased with the design of the rocks): Overall layout (I can't believe how much time I've spent on the main tower!): Interior (with top section removed): Anyway, I hope that you like it, good luck to my Imperial brothers in the competition! C & C always welcome
  4. I had a whole stack of broken 12v light bricks where the bulb had gone. In particular they don't last that long when set in lamp posts. Sick of buying more so needed a way of replacing the bulb with a longer lasting LED. The first difficultly was finding the right LED with a built in resistor so they can run straight off the 12v power supply. I hadn't found 3mm white/clear LEDs before, just coloured ones, but found a supplier here for what I needed. These should also work fine for 9v. Then the other tricky bit was to open up the light brick without breaking it. This wasn't as difficult as I first thought, so here is the guide - no soldering and no glue! The tools used (almost common household items!) excluding the light brick and LED are : 1. A micro-screwdriver. 2. A bent curtain hook. 3. Some sharp nail scissors. Step 1. Using the screwdriver scrape off the plastic tab that helps hold into place the inner part of the light brick : Step 2. Using the holes for the plug as an anchor lever out the inner part of the light brick with the sharp end of the bent curtain hook until you can get under it : Step 3. If the inner part is still not loose rotate the other end of the curtain hook in the space made at the bottom : Step 4. Take out the inner part : Step 5. Use the micro srewdriver to remove the old bulb and contacts until the inner part is clear : Step 6. Throw away the old bulb and wiring and Insert the LED : Step 7. Bend the LED wires around the light brick making sure the LED is centred : Step 8. With the screwdriver continue to bend the LED wires into the plug contact holes : Step 9. Re-insert the metal contacts. This may take some force, but it will be this additional friction which means the removal of the plastic tab earlier doesn't matter : Step 10. Trim off the excess LED wires with the scissors : Step 11. Re-join the central part of the light brick with the cover (remember which way is up!) : Complete! Remember as it's an LED it won't work plugged in either way to the power supply, but that doesn't bother me in the slightest as you just turn the plug around / swap the pins if it doesn't work For train lights where the power will be reversed when you reverse the train I can recommend Janco's light bricks which are superb
  5. Here is my Maersk train with PF leds. I really wanted to keep the original look with the two lights above each other, and it worked out pretty well (no brick modification necessary): How do you build it? Attached is the LDD file. The wiring is pretty straight-forward if you are running on PF. If you are using 9V, you'll need to get this cable (the cable with 2/3 high connector bricks prevents the motor bogie from turning in corners). Please comment! Maersk train cab.lxf