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  1. I propose to keep here an up-to-date ldraw.xml, the file used by LDD to convert to and from LDraw files. Download: latest version On Windows: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Mac: download and replace the one in the “Contents\Resources\” folder in the app (open “Applications” in Finder, right click on the “LEGO Digital Designer” package and select the “Show Package Contents” option to explore the pakage folders). (Thanks manglegrat!) If you have other modifications or additions, post them here or send me a personal message and I’ll include them to the benefit of all. If you need a part, feel free to ask here and I’ll try to add it (provided it exists in LDraw and LDD). History and Contents It’s based upon gallaghersart’s latest version (see this thread). It includes the modifications shutterfreak published in his thread. It uses some of the LDraw unofficial parts (mainly for new parts in LDD Brick version 2075). It includes some name corrections (because LDraw renamed or moved some parts, added new variants, etc.). I tried to more accurately convert the colors (now mainly according to Ryan Howerter’s conversion table). It’s not easy because all sources (Swooshable, Mecabricks, Ryan) don’t agree, and there are holes and overlaps. But as these differences, holes, and overlaps occur for rare colors or colors that aren’t available in LDD, it should be okay. In a megalomaniacal way, all the entries I have modified have an “SLS” at the end of their heading comments. New entries have an “SLS” at the front of the comments. So it’s easy to know when to blame me. As of 2016-09-16 and the big overhaul, I assume all the errors. Know Limitations As of LDD 4.3.9, flex parts (hoses) are not exported anymore (even unflexed). Minifig arms and hands are not connected in LDraw. I don’t know whose geometry is off (both?) but the shapes differ a lot. At least, hands are correctly connected to whatever they clip and arms are correctly placed in their sockets and somewhat wrap around the hands’s stems. Some variants are not recognized by LDD (e.g. clips, or tiles with/without groove, etc.) In those cases, I prefer to use the most recent variant in LDraw as it generally is easier to find and cheaper. Sometimes, several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part. Sometimes, the transformation is accurate for one variant but not for another. For example, the Flag 2 x 2 is known to LDD as 2335, 11055, and 60779, but LDraw only has the 2335 variant. 2335 and 60779 use the same transformation but 11055 is vertically offset. I preferred to badly convert 11055 to 2335 rather than not convert it at all or badly convert 2335 and 60779. ldraw.xml is used both ways (LDD to/from LDraw). It’s not something I do frequently (too many resulting collisions) so it’s not well tested. One problem I can see is that, when several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part, the conversion that’s listed last is the one that will be used. The reverse (first written is the one used) is true for assemblies that use the same subparts, in the same quantity (like electric cables). A lot of LDraw parts are simply wrong. Almost all the parts that combine System (studs and anti-studs) and Technic (pins and axles, and their holes) are wrong in that they assume the technic holes are at the same height than side studs (on the picture below, the circles are concentric). LDD assumes the holes are 0.2 mm (0.5 LDU) higher. In ABS, the holes are 0.12 mm (0.375 LDU) higher (dixit Jamie Berard in his famous presentation). In order to limit the number and magnitude of errors, LDD is considered to be right. How to write a new transformation for a part in ldraw.xml What? ldraw.xml is an XML file that defines how LDD can export to (or import from) LDraw files. It does so by defining a match between the part’s IDs and how to rotate and translate the part from one geometry to the other. Matches are defined by “Brick” XML elements. For example, this one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 that it knows as 3005 is also known to LDraw as 3005: <Brick ldraw="3005.dat" lego="3005" /> (Note the “.dat” in the ldraw ID.) Matches are not needed if the part IDs are the same: the transformation element is sufficient for LDD to know the part exists. (So the example above is useless ) Rotations and translations are defined by “Transformation” XML elements. This one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 just needs to be moved up: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> The translation (tx, ty, and tz) is in centimeters (0.8 cm is the width of a brick, 0.96 cm its height). The rotation is given by its axis (the line passing through and ), and its angle in radians. And all the coordinates are in the direct (“riht-handed”), Y points up, coordinates system of LDD. The transformation explains what should be done to import from LDraw besides changing the axes (LDD’s Y is up and XYZ is a direct basis, LDraw’s Y is down and XYZ is an indirect basis; so changing the axes only means changing the sign of Y). So, in an LDD to LDraw point of view, the transformation is reversed: it says what happens to a part if you don’t do anything to its coordinates besides changing the sign of Y. In other words, the opposite transformation has to be applied to the LDD coordinates of the part in order to get the LDraw coordinates (with Y reversed). Why? Each part has an orientation (which way up? which way left?) and a center, point of origin, or reference point (we’ll use “reference point” from now on). But LDD and LDraw don’t always agree. To know the orientation and reference point in LDD, insert the part without rotating it nor attaching it to any other part. It will be aligned along the scene’s axes (LDD’s axes). The reference point is near the mouse pointer’s head. To know the orientation and reference point in LDraw, I find LeoCAD the easiest tool: just select the part and its axes are drawn (X red, Y green, Z blue), starting at its reference point. Okay, LeoCAD’s «X, Y, Z» is LDraw’s «X, -Z, Y» but what’s another little change of basis? Sometimes, their disagreement is trivial. For example, for the simple 1x1 brick (3005), both LDD and LDraw agree: the stud is on top and the reference point is on the vertical line going through the center of the stud. But they differ for the height at which the reference point should be: LDD says it’s at the base of the brick, LDraw at its top (but at the base of the stud). (On every picture, X will be red, Y green, and Z blue.) So the transformation for that part is straightforward: if the LDraw part is imported as is, with only Y reversed, it will end up 0.96 cm (the height of the brick) higher than it should. So we have to lower it by 0.96 cm: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> Sometimes, their disagreement is more profound and the transformation is therefore more complicated. For example, for the musket (Minifig Gun Musket 2561), LDD puts the reference point in the handle and “up” means the handle is vertical but LDraw puts the reference point in the barrel and “up” means the barrel is vertical. Even more, the stock is on the wrong side, so X and Z are different too. With an identity transformation, the part is rotated by an eighth of a turn (X to Y) (π/4) around the Z axis to put the barrel vertical, and then by a quarter turn (X to Z) (-π/2) around the Y axis. After that, it has been translated up and horizontally. After calculations (see below), we’ll end up with this transformation: <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> How? So, how do we find the right values to have the correct transformations? What’s the ID? Having the right part Check the ID of the part in LDD. Check the ID of the part in LDraw. Beware of variants, LDraw uses a letter suffix (a, b, c…) where LDD totally changes the ID or keeps the same ID for new variants. Don’t hesitate to look on BrickLink for the part ID: BrickLink keeps a list of alternate IDs (when the same part has several IDs) and links to variants and notes. If the IDs are the same. Nothing to do. If the IDs differ. We add a Brick element: <Brick ldraw="123a.dat" lego="456" /> Don’t forget the “.dat”! That was the easy part. Which way is up? Finding the rotation axis and angle We start in LDD. Up is Y, or Y is up. X and Z are a bit harder to see on the LDD scene unless you use LDD’s developper mode (which has the LDD axes drawn at «0,0,0» as red X, green Y, and blue Z lines). Or, if you’re sure you didn’t move the camera in a brand new model/file, X is pointing bottom right, and Z bottom left. We place our part among other parts that we know will be correctly converted (like 1x1 plates, or harpoons ) to have references. Using different colors greatly helps! We export to LDraw… … and look at the results: We decompose the transformation in multiple simple rotations, around the X, Y, or Z axis. If it has been turned around X, a quarter turn from Y to Z is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Z, a quarter turn from X to Y is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Y, a quarter turn from Z to X is a positive π/2 angle. To make it short, it’s a direct (right-handed) basis. If you can’t figure out the problems with an existing transformation, “clear” it by using an identity transformation: <transformation tx="0" ty="0 tz="0" ax="0" ay="1" az="0 angle="0"/> (All zeroes but one of the a_ which is 1.) You can try each simple rotation one by one to be sure of their angles (especially their signs ). Beware, combining rotations change their axes (e.g. turning around first X then Y is equivalent to turning around first Y then Z). So if you check that the Y rotation is okay, then the X rotation, don’t forget to combine them as Y then Z. For the musket, we need two rotations: an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z (blue) axis that puts the barrel vertical, and then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis. Or we can first make the quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis, and then an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the X (red) axis. Remember, “import”-wise, we’re trying to find what should happen to the part in the LDD scene to be like the LDraw one, with the LDD axes (the harpoons ). My head is turning. Combining rotations If more than one simple rotation is needed, we have to combine them. For that, we’ll use quaternions. Eh come back! That’s not that difficult! A quaternion q can be written as q = a + b.i + c.j + d.k, where i² = j² = k² = i.j.k = -1 (so i.j = k = -j.i, j.k = i = -k.j, k.i = j = -i.k). a is the real part, b.i + c.j + d.k is the imaginary part. A rotation by the angle angle around the axis «ax, ay, az» is the quaternion q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) Do note the 1/2 factor on the angle! To combine two rotations, we just multiply their quaternions and apply the rules above to end up with a a + b.i + c.j + d.k form (or, more accurately, a C + S.(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) form, where C and S are cosine and sine of the same angle and ax² + ay² + az² = 1 ). If we rotate first by q and then by p, the result is the rotation by p.q. Note the order: q then p is p.q. Multiplication is not commutative with quaternions: if you do it the wrong way, you’ll end up with the correct values but the wrong signs. There’re lots of fun to have with quaternions and rotations as quaternions. But what is said here is sufficient for our purposes. An example: Most of the times, we do π/2 rotations (quarter turns, 90°). angle = π/2 therefore cos(angle/2) = sin(angle/2) = cos(π/4) = sin(π/4) = √2/2; So, for a “horizontal” quarter turn (yaw, around Y): q = √2/2 + √2/2.j (as j/Y is the “vertical” axis). Let’s combine it with a half turn (π, 180°) around the X axis (IOW, upside-down): cos(π/2) = 0, sin(π/2) = 1, so p = 0 + i p.q = (0 + i) . (√2/2 + √2/2 j) = √2/2 i + √2/2 i.j = 0 + √2/2 ( i + k ) Now, let’s get the resulting angle: The real part of p.q, 0, is the cosine of angle/2. 0 is also the cosine of ±π/2 (±90°). Therefore, the resulting angle is π (180°). Now the axis, «ax, ay, az»: It’s the √2/2( i + k) imaginary part. That’s the vector «√2/2, 0, √2/2». We need to remove the sin(angle/2) factor. That’s easy as the sine of π/2 is 1. So our axis is «ax = √2/2, ay = 0, az = √2/2». Written in ldraw.xml: ax="0.707…" ay="0" az="0.707…" angle="3.1415…" Another one, a quarter turn around Y and then around X: q = √2/2 + √2/2 j = √2/2 (1 + j) p = √2/2 + √2/2 i = √2/2 (1 + i) p.q = 1/2 (1 + i) (1 + j) = 1/2 + 1/2 (i + j + k) We rewrite it as p.q = 1/2 + √3/2 (√⅓ i + √⅓ j + √⅓ k) to have a unit vector (ax² + ay² + az² = 1) in the parenthesis and to clarify the cosine and sine: 1/2 and √3/2. They are the sine and cosine of π/3 (60°). Therefore, the resulting angle is 2π/3 (120°). In ldraw.xml: ax="0.577…" ay="0.577…" az="0.577…" angle="2.094…" Back to our musket: An eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z axis that puts the barrel vertical: q = cos(π/8) + sin(π/8).i = C + S.k Then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y axis: p = cos(-π/4) + sin(-π/4).j = √2/2 (1 - j) p.q = √2/2.(1 - j)(C + S.k) = √2/2.(C - S.j.k - C.j + S.k) = √2/2.C + (-√2/2.S.i - √2/2.C.j + √2/2.S.k) Wow! Hum, okay. So √2/2.cos(-π/8) is the cosine of half our angle. Get the calculator out… angle/2 = Acos(√2/2.cos(-π/8)) = 0.8589 Our angle is 1.7178. We “remove” the sine of angle/2 from our vector, so that p.q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k): ax = -√2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.3574 ay = -√2/2.cos(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.8629 az = √2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = 0.3574 As an exercise, you can verify that ax² + ay² + az² = 1. So we did it right! Et voilà: ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016" One step to the left. Getting the translation right Now that the part is correctly oriented, it may need to be moved. The translation is in centimeters (cm). 20 LDU = 0.8 cm. Values are often multiples of 0.4 (half a stud) for tx and tz and multiples of 0.32 (height of a plate) for ty. Other, finer, tunings are often in multiples of 0.008. If the rotation is complex, all bets are off In LDD, we try to place the part so that its LDraw up axis ends up up in the scene, and we try to align its LDraw X and Z axes with X and Z of the scene (at least, that it is not rotated by a weird angle). That way, moving the part along its axes is also moving the part along the scene’s axes. It will be easier for getting the translation right. For our musket, that means the barrel up. (I didn’t align the X and Z axes here because, yeah, I’m a warrior, I don’t need that. Besides, you’ll see what happens because of that. ) Again, I find it easier in LeoCAD: the key bindings, the coordinates clearly shown in the status bar, etc. The thing is, LeoCAD uses a direct Z up basis. So if you move «dx, dy, dz» in LeoCAD, you’re moving «dx, -dz, dy» in LDD (and vice versa). Confusing? Noooh. Anyway, choose your own poison but beware of its little quirks. To help fine tuning, using transparent colors greatly helps, especially for clip-bar connections. Now, we note the coordinates of our part in our LDraw editor and move it so that it ends up the way it should. We look how much we moved it. That’s it! Just convert it to cm (= LDU × 0.8 / 20) and we have our translation. Well, mostly, the signs are wrong. Remember: the transformation is what should happen to the LDD part to end up like the LDraw part, we just did the opposite and moved the LDraw part to be like the LDD one. Besides the signs, if you didn’t correctly align the axes, you’ll have to find which is which For our musket, we need to go up and sligthly to the “left” (from bottom right to upper left when your LDraw view is oriented as a new LDD file, as are all the screenshots here). That means negative dy and dx. But as the part is not aligned on X and Z (but still not badly rotated), the negative dx becomes a positive dz. Et voilà! <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> (So, okay. I had to try first tx then tz, both negative and positive, before I found the right one. But I didn’t want to have to remake the pictures! There: I’m not a warrior, I’m just lazy.)
  2. Hey everyone, So I recently started re-watching Clone Wars since I finally got it on BluRay, and thought I'd take a stab at some of the ships since Clone Wars was the first series I started making MOCs for. (One day I may show my earlier stuff once I update it all.) I had forgotten how neat the Republic Y-Wing was, and thought I'd tackle that. I had planned to show this off as real bricks but it's going to cost a bit more than I had originally anticipated, so here is the LDD version for now. Anakin&#x27;s BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr Version with landing gear, there is unfortunately no room to fold it in, so it has to be removed and bricks placed over the holes. Anakin&#x27;s BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter (2) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr They had the design drawings available on the Star Wars website, so I used those to get my design as close as I could scale wise. Anakin&#x27;s BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - Full (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr And then a collection of the different colours seen in the show. BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (2) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (3) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr As a side note, there is enough room to fit Anakin and Ahsoka in the cockpit, I tried to fit a clone, but the helmet is just way to big to fit under the canopy. Also I am aware that these do contain some pieces that do not currently come in the shown colours. Anyways, let me know what you think, and enjoy.
  3. I have put together a compilation of different Imperial Kyber crystal container designs I have come across. All except the Lego version can hold crystals. Inthert's can hold the 30153 crystal and all of the others can hold a 1x1 cylinder with a flat round tile on top to mimic the internal cylindrical containers seen spilling out in Rogue One. The two designs to the right are my own with a shorter version below. It is interesting to see all of the variations on a small item like this. I think Markus19840420's is actually my favorite. What are everyone's thoughts? Kyber-Containers by James Eilers wolf.leews-無 (Flickr) markus19840420 (Flickr) Inthert (flickr) / Inthert (Instagram post of of Kyber Container) Here is the LDD File.
  4. edited to put all final images in the first post... After seeing the LEGO movie, I wanted to re-create buildings from Emmet's neighborhood. While researching, I realized a great deal of what was in the movie was based on previously-existing sets. I thought it would be interesting to do a project that compared the original LEGO sets to the modified movie versions. Knowing how much time, money, and physical space it would take to build these out of real bricks, I decided to try my hand at LEGO Digital Designer (LDD). After having created a couple of the buildings in LDD, I ran across the post for Bluerender and used it to generate photo-real renderings. Here are my results: .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...logo_final_.lxf The latest image posts: Nathan Sawaya's Oscar statue from the 2015 Academy Awards. The latest WIP of Emmet's Mech (with BlackStar): lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/movie_emmetsmech_2017-05-18.lxf Emmet's apartment Emmet's apartment interior How Emmet fits a 50-stud-wide apartment into a 30-stud-wide building: A variation on Emmet's apartment (green with a slanted roof) Pet Store (right) Pet Store (left) Plumber Joe's apartment .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...the_plumber.lxf Condemned building Fresh Fruit market Sherrie Scratchen-Post's apartment Emmet's street Emmet's street in micro scale Fire Brigade .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...ire_brigade.lxf Fire Brigade tower (original) Fire Brigade Tower (updated) Filling Station Garage Street Corner Rooftop garden 1 Rooftop garden 2 An example of the reuse of building parts Warehouse 1 Warehouse 2 (Fire Brigade) Mega Green Grocer Bricksburg Castle Bricksburg Castle back Cafe Corner / hotel with clock tower Fish (market?/restaurant?) Office(?) Building Office Building Church It's not mentioned in the images, but the the ice cream cart in this image, the giant Green Grocer, and the "fish" building comes from 10211 Grand Emporium. Cheese Slope building Fire Brigade Radio Station Plaza with Bob's Kabobs Here are some Bricksburg accessories from the Movie, including garbage containers, rooftop details, a street corner, billboards, and the mosaics from the "fish" and "fresh fruit" buildings, including the LDD file, for you to use in your own MOCs: lxf file: http://www.brickshel...accessories.lxf Condemned building Condemned building Ma and Pa Cop's house Highway Overpass Monorail stop Skyscraper ground level The Coffee Chain Skyscraper 1 Skyscraper 2 Skyscraper 3 Skyscraper 4 Skyscraper 5 Skyscraper 6 Skyscraper 7 Downtown: Flying cranes Downtown: Larry's flying coffee machine Skyscraper under construction 1 Skyscraper under construction 2 Construction site Small cement mixer Tipper Truck Cement mixer Dump Truck Crawler Crane Instruction Tube Large crawler crane Instruction Holder Building cranes Building crane Construction helicrane Brick sorter Front end loader Back hoe Heavy loader Rush hour traffic Small car Public transportation, monorail, and Surfer Dave's car SUV Small van Delivery truck Police cruiser SWAT van Octan HQ micro scale upper floors Octan HQ micro scale Octan HQ from Finn's basement Octan HQ minifig scale Lord Business' relic room Octan corridor with MetalBeard and Benny Octan sound stage--news conference stage Octan sound stage--80s-something technology Octan sound stage--Where Are My Pants? Octan DJ booth Octan Executive Conference Room The many moods of MetalBeard MetalBeard's strong, virile body MetalBeard's "Down on the Farm" form Mrs. Scratchen-Post's kitty sled lxf file: http://www.brickshel...post_sleigh.lxf A Christmas tree assembled by The LEGO Movie Master Builders Emmet's snow sculpture Mark Mothersbaugh's LEGO energy domes from the 2015 Academy Awards Awards given to all Emmet Awards nominees More on the way!
  5. Inspired by the Speed Champions cars. Last year I built a car showroom to show them off. Al's Autos is built on 3 large baseplates. On the left baseplate the blue and white sign has doubled sided brick plate writing and rotates on a Technic turntable. The showroom has a roller door entry behind the office on the left. It is fully tiled inside and lit with PF LEDs. On the right baseplate the brown turntable also rotates on a Technic turntable. The footpath is designed to match up to the Modular footpaths. My own creation cars are a Pick Up truck with removable Camper. A Ford GT40 reverse engineered from a LEGO YouTube movie. The black Pontiac is a KITT replica and has a working red LED scanner in the front. Next was a service centre / workshop for the showroom.The back section is a parts department. On the right are two service bays. The front one has a working Technic pneumatic hoist. Also PF LED lighting. The shipping containers can fit a Speed Champions car or spare parts. To keep the cars clean I next built a car wash. This has a working Technic based linear actuator to move the brushes back and forward over the car. So after a long day. It's off to the Drive In movies. The diner has a projection room, kitchen, counter, seating and toilet. My own creation cars are two NYPD police cars with working light bars. A yellow NY taxi. The two Porsche 911's are modified with brick headlights and door handles. The ambulance has working LED light bars, headlights and taillights One day I will get around to doing close up and interior photos.
  6. As requested by Inkpanther in my last thread on the EAS Agamemnon, here's another B5 MOC! This time it's just in LDD/LDraw, but the renders give a pretty decent idea of how it might look IRL. Front (got guns?): Side (oh yeah, don't forget the missile launch tubes as well as the guns ): Top shot (new greebles, new parts, another view of dem guns): If you're familiar with the reference material, or if you've seen the other thread, the Nova-Class Dreadnoughts are predecessors to the Omega Class Destroyers - without the rotating section but with a ridiculous quantity of guns and slightly fewer Starfuries. This beastie is for takin' names and kickin' megablocks. As a result, it wasn't much work to translate the Agamemnon into what I want to call the Schwartzkopf. The reference images I used are the Antares, but I prefer the one that was a topical reference (well, it was at the time!) to Stormin' Norman. Stats-wise, this one is 104 studs long (still legally a SHIP, right?), 30 tall and 20(ish) wide - or about 83x29x16cm. It contains 3720 parts, almost exactly 1000 less than the Agamemnon. I don't think I'll build this one in the brick (I'd have to make a UCS plaque) but just in case, I put the plaque holder on the opposite side of the stand from the Agamemnon so that they could face each other head-to-head on display at home. The model has 5 not 7 "ribs" in the midsection compared to the reference shot of the Antares but I'm fine with that - it fits my scale better so I'm taking artistic license. After placing the side-panels in the LDraw version, I can tell there could be some brick alignment issues with them around the midsection that would require a minor redesign of those, but they could probably do with a minor tweak anyway. The full Flickr album is here. As well as the renders there are a few reference pics I cribbed from the web, including a side-by-side comparison of a Nova and an Omega. Hope you enjoy it!
  7. Another one fictional loco. Retrofuturistic locomotive by Sunder_59, on Flickr
  8. Thanks to the open source SunFlow rendering system, i'm able to present: Bluerender A rendering engine for Lego Digital Designer. How it works: You just open the LXF file with Bluerender and click the big Render button. Optionally, you can choose an output png file and do a "preview" render: it will render the model in wireframe (useful for testing and framing your model). A set of default settings is provided that should looks good for most renders, but you can tinker with the scene description to use the full power of SunFlow. Rendering is fast, a 1024x768 image usually take no more than five minutes on average pc. This project came about as an experiment when i discovered that i could integrate SunFlow into Blueprint code with minimal effort. It's by no mean a competitor to Povray, which is slow but ultra-high quality, professional renderer. Features: Renders models, even big ones (tested on 12k piece models) Completely customizable scene Use camera settings from lxf file, so you can just frame your model in LDD. Support for LDD decorations and decoration substitution Limitations: many :P Documentation: A wiki is available with plenty of documentation. Using the renderer with default settings is quite simple. If you want to customize light, materials etc, you can change the scene description, simply edit the included scene.sc file. The syntax of the scene description is that of Sunflow and should be easy, there are some examples inside. Anyway some documentation is available here (note: it may be a little outdated at times). You can optionally have a custom scene file for each model: simply copy the scene.sc file and name it like your lxf model (for example, if you have spaceship.lxf, create the file spaceship.sc, in the same folder of course). You can override LDD decoration with your own adding lines like this in your scene file (the number is the decoration ID): ##CHANGEDECOR 59879 c:\path\to\custom\mydecor.png Issue Tracker: Have any bug or feature request? Be a good fellow and report it in our shiny issue tracker. Requirements: Java8 (revision 8u40 or better) Lego Digital Designer Disclaimer: Use at your own risk, i decline any responsability for anything that may happen to you using the program. Download: You can download Bluerender vers. 0005 here. Flickr Group: You can add your renders to the official Bluerender Lego Rendering group. Running on Mac: Some people were able to run Bluerender on Mac. Try the following instructions: Remove all java installations Install Java, but not from Oracle, from Homebrew instead. What's HomeBrew? I've no idea, but you can try following these instruction. Open a command prompt/shell/terminal, cd to the folder where you unzipped Bluerender Enter the following command: java -cp "bin/*" bluerender.BlueRender If the program manage to start, it will ask you to locate the db.lif file, you should find it here: /Users/USERNAME/Library/Application Support/LEGO Company/LEGO Digital Designer/db.lif Special thanks: to Bublible for his help with the renderer. to Jackalope for his help testing the app on Mac. to Fabrizio for his precious time as beta tester. Screenshot: Example Output: (these models are taken from the web, not mine) More examples can be found here. Here you can find a 3027x2304 render of a 12000 parts model, took about 30 minutes. Changelog: 0005: Black is now real black #93 Glass is now lighter #82 (thanks to bublible) Implemented bublible chrome materials #73 (thanks to bublible) Corrected NPE with invalid color codes (default to white) #86 Implemented aliases parsing and caching #81, #68 360° rotation renders #71 can now place light with transform{} blocks #72 (thanks to bublible) overwrite and other options are now persisted #64 basic parameters are now in the app #65 changed default background to white 0004: Janino shaders now work Automatic aspect ratio Overwrite without asking checkbox No longer "forget" some flexible elements Correct background color reflection for mirrors (no more black) 0003: Model loading is fast again (even faster!) Some textured glass support (not perfect yet) Clickable scene label (opens the scene file) Self adjusting plane height Search file in db folder beside db.lif Bugfixes 0002: remembers last used folder ask before overwrite use a single scene.sc file instead of three files for setup, materials, lights scene files are not shown on the program anymore (was more confusion than anything) optional per-model scene file LDD decoration support custom decoration support 0001: initial release
  9. What if LDD would have modern graphics engine? With MSAA, real shadow, physical based renderer... Take a look what is possible [1080p, 60Hz]:
  10. Hello from France Guys ! I'm Bricks Feeder and it's my first topic on Eurobricks! :) I show you my MOC of the TIE Advanced Prototype (aka The Sith Inquisitor's TIE) seen on the SW Rebels series. I will make some pictures of my advance in the future but for the moment, I give you some videos (of my YouTube Channel) of my prototype on LDD. This MOC is based on the original LEGO set 75082. The "wings" were directly inspired by this forum on Eurobricks (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index...). I'm trying to build a "cool" Interior of the cockpit. For that point, I'm inspired by the awesome TIE Fighters short film. I'm trying to be "accurate" but it's difficult when you found pictures of a subject with different "shapes" or variations of shape between them. So I based my model on the first appearance of this fighter in the Rebels Show... I made a second version with some upgrades of the articulations of the "wings" to get it stronger. Moreover, I change all the back! I'll continue to work on it. I am not satisfied yet ! I'll show you my advance and if I can, the real one! If you have some ideas or constructive criticisms, share with me please! I want to upgrade my skills! :) Enjoy and have a nice day! P.S. : If you have the time... Check my You Tube Channel! ;)
  11. [Rules of the Topic] [Statistics] - - - - - - - - - - [Not Indexed Yet Entries] [Themes A-C] - - - - [Themes D-M] - - - - [Themes N-S] - - - - [Themes T-Z] [Begin of the entries] - - - - - - - - - - [Last Update Point] Rules of the Topic (Please read these guidelines before posting) Here are some guidelines created in order to help to maintain this topic well ordered and help to built the index! Allowed Sets Set that has been officially released by LEGO and available for the purchase. Set whose Official Instructions has been released from TLG and are available in LEGO website. IMPORTANT NOTE: if building instructions or set's references are not easily available on common sources, please report that. The Set have to be constructed using official LEGO instructions and not interpreting preliminary or official images. The Set have to contain something you can build. Sets with scattered parts or single or few minifigures are not allowed. Irregular Posts Important NOTE: Irregular entries (inserted in posts that don't respect the Topic's Rules) won't be indexed. When you fix an irregular post, inform the indexer, so that he can update the index database. Good habits Avoid unnecessary posts inside this topic, if possible. Always use a new post to add new entry/entries. Don't add (or remove!) models to any existing post. If you think to build more sets in a short period of time, don't post them one by one but amass a bit of them and then post them together. Try to avoid to post more than one time in a single day. For any question/explanation/request/communication contact the indexer using private messages, when possible. Use of images in the topic [Guide] Only images related to posted sets (and then lxf file) are allowed, as a preview. Only one image for each set is allowed. Don't quote images from other posts. Any other image can be inserted as text link. Images should be simple and clear: no "creative" images are allowed, but simple screenshots. Avoid compositions (more images in one), images with another image as background, animated images, 3D images, renderings with external software, image with custom added parts, etc... Try to place objects inside the image so that the image results compact (i.e. avoid internal large blank space if possible) but clear. Try to place the camera so that the set results well visible. Avoid flat framing but choose a good 3D angle. As images are for preview purpose only, should be not too big! Maximum size allowed is 512x512 pixels for big sets (such as castles, modular buildings, stations, large space ships, etc...). Use intermediate sizes (for example 448px, 384px, 320px, ...) for smaller models. The 256x256px size or lower is often good for small sets. Crop images completely removing horizontal and vertical blank stripes around the subject (zero-pixles margins). Insert a model Report set's data and emphasize that in bold. Set's data include set Number, set official Name and set's Theme and subtheme if any. For example: 5988 - Pharaoh's Forbidden Ruins - Theme: Adventure If the set has more "configurations" (different models), please specify which one you are reproducing with LDD (Model A, Model B, etc...). NOTE: Alternate Versions (official different configurations for the same set) are counted as separate sets. If the set has been Re-Released with an identical or similar version, report the alternate Set ID(s). Report both the version of LDD and the brickset used to build the model. Insert a screenshot of your creation, in order to provide a preview. One screenshot for each set (see the rules about images above). Report if the model is complete or some piece is missing or replaced by a custom solution. Don't divide a single set in more than one post. Put a single set in a single .lxf file. You are encouraged to use LDD groups function to separate different elements in complex sets. LDD model should be similar to the original model as much as possible. Include minifigs, if any. Replace missing decorations with suitable ones, if possible. Modified models are welcome, but in different .lxf files, as an "extra". Every personalization (personal logos, additions, changes) makes a model a "Modified Model". and obviously... Share you lxf file! :wink: Update a set Update the post where you originally inserted the set. Report the update in the Upgrade Topic. Be care to follow the rules of the Upgrade Topic. [Sets created by other users] If the set has been built by another user, contact him and ask him to update his entry. Provide some help, if you find a way to solve some issue. If contact model's builder is not possible or he don't want to update it, insert the updated model in a new post as if it is a new model, but specify it is an update and insert the link to the original model's post. Inform the indexer before posting. Book or Request a set Refer to "Official Lego sets - Book, WIP, Requests" Topic. NOTE: you can ever choose to make an already made or booked set, if you want. Besides You are encouraged to inform an LDD file maker if you notice an adjustable defect in his/her LDD file! If you notice something wrong in the index, please report it to the indexer. If you use custom pieces to replace missing bricks in LDD, please post it in the "LDD custom bricks" Topic! Rules in brief Read the rules before posting here. Only regular entries will be indexed. Allowed sets: instructions officially released, no spared parts. Report references if necessary. Insert a model General rules: don't split model in more posts, don't add or remove entries to an existing post, group entries. Don't add personalizations to the model (except in order to replace missing parts). Use Groups. Extra are allowed, as text links. Necessary content: Set's Data, Image, LXF File, Error List. - Set's data: Set's ID, Set's name, Theme/Subtheme, alternative model (Model A, B, ...), alternative Set IDs if any. - Image: one for each entry, simple screenshots, maximum size 512x (big sets), crop, not scattered, no flat view, PNG with Alpha channel. - LXF file: one for each entry, direct link, report LDD and brickset version. - Error List: missing bricks/decorations, replaced brick/decorations, brick made replacements. Various: minimal quotes, don't quote images, report errors. (index/other entries).
  12. Hi all, has anyone ever compiled a matching table between LDD decorations and LDraw patterned bricks (or stickers)? (Something like 95551 = 3005pf0.dat) There’re about 2000 decorations in LDD and it’s highly disrespectful to redo the gruesome work someone has already done
  13. Hello All, I'm new to LDD, and when I select "brick outlines" under preferences, and restart LDD as prompted, when I restart all the models are invisible. It will load them, and let me select bricks, but I can't see them. Any assistance is appreciated. Many thanks.
  14. New LEGO/ Lego MOC, VW T1 BUS (VW Camper Van) Is still 10 grain width, the new version is not based on the past version of the upgrade, I refer to a large number of original drawings and objects, re design details, body length, internal structure, and customized manual spraying (silver effect) parts. The new version of the T1 will be a series of my design, I will be based on this chassis for a variety of T1 modified car design (such as: pickups, SUVs, racing cars, trailers and so on, of course, will also consider the static model). T1 is a classic, multi-purpose models, it is worth pondering, I hope there will be more based on the design of the personal style of the modified car appears, I will always maintain this series of drawings sharing. The current version is 1.1, the design will be updated at any time, with the design of the trailer will be released, welcome to communicate with me through MocPages, Sina (Weibo) and other social platforms. http://weibo.com/moonein http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/438905 https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8059/moonein/rcpf-vw-t1-camper-vanvw-t1-bus-10-wide/
  15. You may have encountered it: you built a nice model in LDD, but it looks surreal because it lacks decorations on e.g. the minifigs. This tutorial is here to help you with that. In this little tutorial, I will try to explain how you can enhance the POV-Ray renders of your LDD models with custom decorations. You can design entirely new figures for example, or you can apply the decorations that aren’t available in LDD. My example in this tutorial will be a stormtrooper minifig. This figure lacks all decoration in LDD, and is commonly used in digital Star Wars builds. It gives me the opportunity to explain how to decorate surfaces that aren’t directly accessible in LDD, how to fit custom decals and explain the general principles. This method doesn’t involve any hacking and doesn’t require any sick programming skills (although the custom decorations might need your artistic talents…). And the best of all: all programs I use here are entirely free! I’ll be using Lego Digital Designer, LDD2POV-Ray, POV-Ray and Inkscape. So let’s get started! Decorate the target pieces in LDD LDD2POV-Ray, the program that will eventually place your custom decorations, can only replace already applied decorations. So firstly, you need to give the pieces you want to decorate a replacement decoration in LDD. Make sure to use different decorations for each surface, so that you later can keep track of which filler to replace with which substitute. Also, taking a screenshot for reference is not a bad idea to support your memory. But wait a minute… Some parts don’t allow for any decorations at all in LDD! Minifig torso’s are not a problem at all, but things like helmets are a whole different story. But luckily, there is an easy way to apply decorations that will work in most cases (no guarantees though!). You have to export your .lxf file to the LXFML format (File -> Export Model). This .lxfml file is actually a textual representation of your model. Among others, it contains a list with the placed parts, including their color(s) and decoration(s). To find your part, use the search function (Ctrl + F / Cmd + F) and type in: in which you replace 30408 (the designID of the storm trooper helmet in this example) with the designID of the part you desperately want to decorate. You can find this ID by clicking on the part in LDD and looking at the bottom left corner. If multiple of these parts are available, you can give the specific part a different color and check for the one that says materials=”26” in which you replace 26 with the number of the color you used (you can find this number by hovering over the color in the color menu in LDD). The key part is then to change the part that says decorations=”0,0,0” in which the amount of zeros dictates the amount of surfaces that you can decorate. If the line isn’t present at all, you’re out of luck and won’t be able to decorate your part. Otherwise, replace the zeros with valid decoration ID’s. It’s best to take decorations that are square and detailed (I will explain why later), so I suggest using the decorations of the 2x2 flat tiles. You can find these ID’s by placing some of these decorated tiles in your model, and check in the LXFML file what number is filled in in the decorations line of those parts. To make it easier for you, here are some handy decoration ID’s you can use: 73023, 63708, 99825, 55350, 63404, 601245 Then, save your file, and open it with LDD. You’ll see your parts are looking very ugly with those random decorations, but you’ll be happy to have decorations. You can copy these parts to a ‘normal’ .lxf file, and get rid of the parts you used to find the decoration numbers. Now we can move on to step 2! 2. Open your model with LDD2POV-Ray LDD2POV-Ray is a program that converts your LDD model into a file that can be rendered with POV-Ray, a ray tracer that simulates the behaviour of real light to simulate a realistic effect. You can set lighting etc, but more importantly, you can set your own decorations. To do this, go to the “Decorations” tab, and check the box “Use custom decorations”. A list will appear at the bottom, showing all the decorations you used. Clicking on them will reveal a thumbnail. Now you’ll be happy that you used different decorations to know which is which. You’ll notice that the decorations (unless they are square) are a bit stretched out. That’s because the program only accepts square decorations. So to load your own decorations, you’ll have to make sure they are square. Otherwise, they won’t cover the whole area you intended. If you already have your decorations (you found them on one of the indexes of the customisation forum here, for example), you can skip to step 4. Otherwise, I’ll give a brief account on how to make your own decorations in step 3. 3. Create your own decorations Personally, I make my decorations with Inkscape. It’s an easy to use vector based program. That means you can easily create very clean, smooth and crisp shapes. I’ll leave it to others to educate you in this nice software, but I’ll show you some general strategies to make accurate decorations. When working on complex curved shapes, like the storm trooper helmet, you won’t know for certain how your image will be mapped to the surface. That’s when the screenshot you took comes in handily. Because you have used decorations with a lot of detail (if you’ve been following properly!), you can easily see how the image is deformed and placed on the surface. You can identify the regions where you want your details to come, look to what part of the placed decoration it corresponds, see what it looks like in its flat state (you can see this in the thumbnail in LDD2POV-Ray), and place your detail in the according place. So in the example of the storm trooper helmet, you can see that the mouth should somewhere at the center of the graph. LDD2POV-Ray shows that that graph is a bit above the, so now you know you have to place the mouth around the center of your decal. When you’ve finished your decoration, you have to make sure your decoration is square. This will most certainly occur when you’re designing decorations for minifig torsos. If you leave it in its actual proportions and plug it in LDD2POV-Ray, you’ll see that the image doesn’t fill the whole area, compared to the stretched out decoration you have to replace. So you resize your decoration. In Inkscape, simply go to the top, where you can enter dimensions. Then you go to File -> Export Bitmap and a dialogue box will pop up. Make sure to select ‘from selection’, and that the amount of pixels of your image is high enough. Otherwise it will look pixelated in the render. Finally, chose .png as file format, and remove the background color of your decoration. Because it might look like the right color in Inkscape, but in your render it will look like the decal has a different color than the body, which isn’t what you wanted. So now you have your parts temporarily decorated, and you got your custom decorations ready. So time to replace them and render them. 4. Render your decorated model Firstly, you have to load your new decorations in LDD2POV-Ray. There are multiple ways to do this, but the easiest method is to select the decoration you want to replace and then click on the empty canvas. A window will pop up to allow you to select your decoration. Just select it. Repeat for the other decorations, making sure you replace the right decoration with the right replacement (that screenshot will come in handy now, especially since you can’t have both LDD and LDD2POV-Ray open at the same time at this moment!). Then you can fiddle around with different settings like lighting etc. For test renders I suggest to place in the first tab the slider on the lowest positions: ‘LDD geometry’. This will result in slightly less good, but much faster renders, allowing you to quickly get feedback about your decorations, so that you can adjust placement and proportions. For flat parts this won’t be necessary, but it can help for curved parts. That’s why I included the TIE pilot in the render. You can see the ensignas are slightly deformed. That’s not my intention, but I already predeformed the circles in the decal, so that it looks more or less round on the surface. You’ll have to experiment a lot with these ones. Anyway, when you're satisfied and feel the need for a more glamorous render, you can turn 'render with visible bevels' on in the slider bar, and wait for some time. You'll get something like this. Hopefully now you know all about rendering your custom minifigs, making your models more realistic. I hope to see some around! Anyway: happy rendering of your minifigs! If anyone is interested in downloading the decorations I designed for the stormtrooper (for now without back printing) and the TIE pilot (torso printing already present in LDD), have a look at this page. Hope you've found this useful.
  16. I am converting a lego model to an .ldr file. However, the chain link models are not converted/present in the export! Is there a way to export the chain models too? Otherwise how can I get their models into my .ldr file? I've created an animation here:
  17. Grids M6 and M7 (general map). Ldd build. After knowing that the Spriznulo Navy failed the trials with 2 drones on grids L6, L7, M6, M7, the 4th flotilla of the Erotema Submarine Force departed from her main naval base in an attempt to recover such valuable technology and return it to the legitimate owner. ES 411 (Erotema submarine 411) is underway to grids M6 and M7 in silent running in case the passive sonar array can detect any distress signal or abnormal noise coming from the lost drones. According to the Strategic Electronic Warfare Units, there is evidence of an unknown radar signal first detected on grid L6 that followed a path to grids M6 and M7 before disappearing from the radar screens. As Spriznulo is an allied, it is vital that the COAC finds the drones before any RON nation do. Secret orders, known as Letters of Last Resort (yes, I have copied the name from the Royal Navy), are to be executed by the Submarine Fleet Captains in case there is no time or possibility to report to the Erotema Navy High Command. Will our submarine find anything apart from old cannons, chests, masts or sealife? DIVERS OK by green helmet spanish AFOL, en Flickr ES 411 belongs to a series of midget submarines, which have inspired the larger classes still on trials, but soon ready for a conflict that the COAC didn´t start. Enjoy!
  18. [Render] Prawn Suit (Subnautica) by Artemiy Karpinskiy, on Flickr The P.R.A.W.N. Suit (Pressure Re-Active Waterproof Nanosuit) (Mk.III) is a powered suit of armor, designed for use in both the deep-sea and space - capable of affording protection to a pilot whilst maintaining maximum dexterity with hydraulic limbs and a reinforced canopy. It is however not directly worn - rather it is a large frame that can be piloted in a seated position. Unlike the other vehicles in Subnautica, the Prawn Suit walks along the ocean floor, only using thrusters to move vertically. Reference image: 1 More shots: 1 2 3 * * * If you like what I do and you want to see me create your OC, a favorite Bionicle Character, or something else, feel free to look up my Commission Info! I also now have a Patreon page, so please consider supporting!
  19. So months back I made a fan concept of Nexo Knights, because after seeing that LEGO Dimensions have like 20 licensed theme, while there are only 4 of LEGO's original theme. My idea with Nexo Knight Exclusive ability would be an updated version of the Chi ability (the ability can be used on Chima's altar sense the Knights would be having the same thing). But the update part is depending on the Nexo Knight you have, will unlock 1 out of *insert number of how many packs of NK would have here* Nexo Power from either taking out a large group of enemies, invulnerability, turning the enemies into chickens, etc. Besides just the super strength ability. The concept isn't fully done, I'm trying to think of how Axl would fit in, because his big torso doesn't make it easy. For Clay I don't know if he would be in a level, fun or team pack with Jestro. But here what I have so far: Nexo Dimensions Gateway I wanted the gateway to have 5 of the Knights shield, along with ministatue Merlok next to one of the shield. I was thinking of having all 5 of the knights weapons as well, but I decided to go with the two swords on the side. Maybe there would be a few books and weapons next to the gateway like with the stuff on The A-Team and Gremlins Gateway. Robin Fun Pack The minifigure for the first pack was a choice between Robin, Ava, some random bot, or King Halbert. For giving the pack more ability, I went with Robin of having the ability to transform into Ultimate mode of having target and blowing up silver bricks. As for the model, I thought Merlok having a robotic body rather then a minifigure would be a good idea and fitting. Obviously the first model would be a playable character, with using the Nexo Power and could be the 3nd character to have the Relic Detector (along with that he would act the same as with the books from the TV show). With the 2nd model I though of instead of just the Nexo Power being solely to Nexo Knight characters, the 2nd model could have the ability to give none-Nexo Knights character a sword and shield for the Nexo Power ability. As for the 3rd model I didn't know what it could be, besides from it being a flying vehicle, sadly it isn't the best. I'm mostly disappointed with the front that look like a face. Robin Ability - Fix-It, Mini Access, Transformer (into Ultimate), Blowup Silver Bricks (in his Ultimate), Target (in his Ultimate) Merlok's Robot (treated as a character) - Laser Deflector, Relic Detector, X-Ray Vision, Nexo Power. Weapons Storage (gadget) - Nexo Power (give none Nexo Character the ability to use Nexo Power) Robin's Drone - Flight, Cargo Hook, Flight Dock, Laser Lace Fun Pack I pretty much threw Lance into a fun pack, thinking of having Clay and Axle into different packs, I picked Illumination as the ability that he has from the other Knights, with using his phone of pretty much taking selfies to light the place up. For the models were a pain after making the 1st model that is based off Excalibur Batman's model, Bionic Steed. Lance Ability - Acrobat, Laser Deflector, Illumination (using his phone) Mecha House - Super Jump, Special Attack (Model 2 not named yet) - Flight, Cargo Hook, Flight Dock, Tow Bar The Handsome Man Flying Thing - Flight, Cargo Hook, Flight Dock, Laser Macy and Arron Team Pack I just thought that Macy and Aaron fits together in a team pack out of the other knights. But for the models, I am happy with Arron models with trying my best to have the 2nd model somewhat like the 2017 Arron's Rock Climber while the 1st model is based on the Aero Striker. However beside from the 1st model, I am not happy with the chains, that are just very odd looking. As for Macy model, only the first model is based on the set, Thunder Mace. While the other 2 models aren't my best and I may make a new version of these three models. Macy Ability - Acrobat, Laser Deflector, (maybe Stealth with wearing a dress) Aaron Ability - Flight, Laser Deflector, Target, Grind Rails Thunder Mace - Speed, Laser. Mace Assault - Tow Bar, Laser Macy's Jet - Flight, Cargo Hook, Flight Dock, Speed Aero Striker - Flight, Target Rock Climber - Tow Bar Flying Pod- Flight, Cargo Hook, Flight Dock
  20. Hey everyone, Was just browsing the board and noticed @Forresto asking about Rebels style Tie Fighters, so I pulled up the ones I designed a little while back that I hadn't posted yet. I haven't had time to build them in real bricks yet, but once I get some free time I'll probably give it a go. First up in the Standard Rebels Tie Fighter; I combined multiple techniques from different builders from here and on Flickr to get the ball as round as possible, I can't remember who right now, but if I remember I will try to add names. Changing the wing size from the standard was a bit of a pain but this seams to hold together. Next is my version of the Inquisitor's Tie Advanced Prototype; The wings were also a pain to build on this one, I tried to keep them as thin as possible, which unfortunately means they aren't the strongest design, but they will work for now. Hope you all enjoy, I realise tie fighters are a dime a dozen, but I tried to go in a different direction with my design to better fit the Rebels aesthetic.
  21. lostdriveway challenged me to create the Haunted Mansion from the LEGO Scooby Doo short, "Knight Time Terror." Here are some pics he sent me: I'm starting off with the greenhouse. Here's what I have so far: More soon!
  22. Keen to the scent, the hunt is my muse A means to an end this path that I choose Lost and aloof are the loves of my past Wake the White Wolf! Remembrance at last. Miracle of Sound — Wake The White Wolf [Render] Geralt of Rivia by Artemiy Karpinskiy, on Flickr * * * If you like what I do and you want to see me create your OC, a favorite Bionicle Character, or something else, feel free to look up my Commission Info! I also now have a Patreon page, so please consider supporting!
  23. LDD/MLCad 15D The Black Pearl Project - A joint venture by Courleciel and Papacharly EDIT April 1st 2015: Black Pearl mpd-file is available now. Please also note the relevant post #15 below! End of last year I had been invited by Courleciel to join a project he already started. The goal of this project was to virtually build the Black Pearl from the Lego video game “Pirates of the Caribbean” and, in a second step, to “make great renderings”. At this time the ship had already been built by Courleciel in real bricks. Starting point for this project was an “old” lxf-file (Lego Digital Designer) by captainjack. The virtual model was significantly optimized by Courleciel so as to make it more accurate and complete. A lot of parts have been repainted, some new elements were added (such as anchors, bell, grating, cannons...), and some were adjusted or rebuilt (like the capstan, figurehead, lanterns, masts...). After the model was nearly completed, the LDD file was converted to the LDraw format and my job started. According to Courleciels conceptual work I added rigging, rails, ropes and strings by using SR3D Builder and MLCad/LSynth. Sails were directly created in povray. Additionally it was necessary to manipulate some original LDraw parts (e.g. # x1609 batarang, see stern) to make them authentic with regard to the video game. Finally we decided on all setups for being rendered. All renders have status “as rendered”. There was no “photoshopping” applied, aside from scaling down and anti-aliasing. I have not counted all the hours I spent working on this project. But doing all the work Courleciel and me had a lot of fun. So we hope that you also will enjoy our work and have some fun too. High resolution “technical renders” showing the conceptual work of Courleciel can be found here. For high resolution images of the movie scenes click here. And here is the outcome of our project:: First we have some technical renders of the Black Pearl. Then we show some movie scene remakes. For all those which are not familiar with “Pirates of the Carribean”, please find the original movie scene respectively an original video game screenshot below each rendering. Here comes a remake of a video game screenshot: Two movie scenes from part 1 "The Curse of the Black Pearl": Movie scene “Pantano River” from part 2 "Dead Man’s Chest" Two movie scenes “Locker” from part 3 "At World’s End" Last but not least we have an atmospheric and maybe kitschy sunset render which is not related to any movie scene.
  24. I always want a proper model based on Agent Coulson's flying car and fortunately the new Avengers Video Game have a really good looking one. So i decided to build it at least in LDD. The "work" beginned with taking a lot of screenshots from every angle the whole and the exploded car. I'm very happy with the final build and i hope you like it too. Here is the final model and it's LDD: I also built an updated one for better structure in the inside: LDD Update: Added some flying pics:
  25. Establishing the new settlement at Jameston was proving much more difficult than Mooreton Bay had been. Although they had landed in January, the settlement had yet to have one completed building. With so many new settlements, colonists were not as available as there were in the early days, especially skilled workers. The longer distances also hampered logistics. So it was a mixture of annoyance and secret relief when Major Dirk Allcock was summoned on a fast ship back to Mooreton Bay with Colonel Andrew Howe, who himself was struggling under similar conditions at Port Woodhouse at nearby Garma's Key. Mooreton Bay was much the same as when he left it, although the streets were teaming with new faces and new buildings were encroaching on the skyline. It was hard to believe that this town, which had recently been recognised as a Large Town under the Colonial Ministries designation scheme, was little more than a few small huts a year ago. It was then Dirk noticed the large building that dominated the entire settlement, built on a rise overlooking the wide expanse of the bay. It was the site he himself had reserved for the seat of the government when he was mayor. Frank Greenway, his convict architect, had been drawing up plans when Dirk left for Jameston earlier in the year. Clearly construction had just been completed, and for a moment Dirk was quite speechless. A couple of days later saw Dirk in the square in front of the building, which had been named Moore House, after Corrington hero the late General Sir Charles Moore, who the settlement itself had indeed been named for. Today the wide expanse of the square was full of soldiers, more soldiers than Dirk had ever seen on Alicentia - two full battalions in fact. The left battalion was made up of redcoats, two companies of Grenadiers and a company of light troops. The battalion on the right was different. The men wore the same style of uniform as the redcoats opposite them, but their coats were a burnt orange colour. The troops were Mardierians, and this was the reason Dirk had been summoned. You may recall that recently Terraversia had come out and declared against the Mardierian Crown. This did not sit well with all the population on the island, including some of the army. Lieutenant Colonel Anthony deLucca was one such man and deLucca commanded a battalion of Mardierian troops. When the declaration of independence had come, he was forced to renounce his oath to the crown, along with his men to avoid massacre. However on the first available occasion he had fled, attempting to join Mardierian forces on the Isle de Medio. Blocked from this endevour by blockading Eslandola and Garvian ships, he had managed to smuggle an officer into one of the Mardierian forts with a letter for the Mardierian commander. Much to his horror, the officer had returned ashen faced and with a stinging letter from the commander. As deLucca and his man had renounced their oath, the commander viewed them as irreversibly tainted by the horror of republicanism. Fearing a trap, he had refused to entertain the idea of deLucca joining the garrison and had furthermore declared him and his men traitors to the crown, and persona non grata in all Mardierian territory, on pain of death. Harassed by the Eslandolan Navy, deLucca further fled eastward until he reached Mooreton Bay, where he had a distant connection to the Mayor, James Hume. Hume, not sure how Her Majesties Government would react to so many foreign troops, had immediately contacted The Cocovia Governor for advice and Captain Jonathan Cooke had referred the matter to Colonial Ministry. Moving with a speed that is only possible from the well oiled machine that is Corrington bureaucracy, orders had been dispatched recalling Colonel Howe from Port Woodhouse to invest the Battalion into the Corlander Army as the Queen's Mardierian Legion. The Legion would serve in the colonies, indeed it was decried that no QML soldier would be allowed to ever enter Corrington as a member of the army. deLucca had readily agreed, keen to serve his adapted nation. Before the ceremony Dirk too had a surprise. Orders from the Army Board had been received and he had received a brevet commission to Lieutenant Colonel. Separate orders from the Colonial office had also appointed Lieutenant Colonel Allcock as Governor of the Paradise Isles - as the Celestia/Cascadia region had become known. He was to return to Jameston immediately and continue to oversee the development of that settlement, but also the settlement of Port Woodhouse. Colonel Howe had been recalled to Bellson. But before returning home, Dirk was to attend the official opening of Moore House. The opening was a great success. Here Dirk and James Hume discuss matters while overlooking the ballroom. Colonel Howe can be seen talking to several gentlemen who look suspiciously like visiting Oleon VIPs. Several other recognisable figures can also be seen. Designed to impress upon all who saw it with the full might and glory of Corrington, Moore house was a monument to the Empire and a sign that Corrington was here to stay. The ground floor contained a huge reception area/ball room, with grand staircases leading to the second floor. Here the house divided into two wings, the Red Wing and Green Wing. In the Green wing the settlement council sat to deliberate on matters of the settlement, while in the Red Wing government lawyers meet to review settlement laws and debate disputes in the interpretation of said laws. Lastly the top level of the grand house was the residential wing. Although containing no permanent residences, a number of large rooms were kept for VIP visitors to the settlement, together with a central dining and lounge room. --------------------------- Licensed as a Royal Cultural property in Mooreton Bay: footprint = 10 368 I ended up having to do two separate builds as LDD froze every time I attempted to add the interior to the full model. Seriously, I don't know how you guys who build big in LDD do it. The program must have crashed at least 30 times towards the end of this build! The overview model totals just over 15 000 bricks. The house itself was inspired by this photo of a building in Sydney Australia, built in the 1800s and since demolished. After much frustration with the piano I cheated, and used the excellent design found here. The QML are to represent the battalion of troops I won as a result of Ch5A - many of you will see the loose historical parallel I have made with the KGL. As usual, C&C welcome! Enjoy!