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Found 695 results

  1. I'm not sure if anyone is aware of this, but there's Minecraft minifigure head decals in LEGO Digital Designer! Here are examples. I discovered this when I uninstalled LDD and reinstalled it earlier today.
  2. Hello AFOL's, today, i want to show you my new awsome Moc of the Imperial Interdictor Cruiser from Star Wars Rebels. It has Parts: 5163 Lenght: 99,8cm Width: 51,4cm Height: 25,5cm Building Time: 4 Days I would be happy for feedback.
  3. Inspired by the Speed Champions cars. Last year I built a car showroom to show them off. Al's Autos is built on 3 large baseplates. On the left baseplate the blue and white sign has doubled sided brick plate writing and rotates on a Technic turntable. The showroom has a roller door entry behind the office on the left. It is fully tiled inside and lit with PF LEDs. On the right baseplate the brown turntable also rotates on a Technic turntable. The footpath is designed to match up to the Modular footpaths. My own creation cars are a Pick Up truck with removable Camper. A Ford GT40 reverse engineered from a LEGO YouTube movie. The black Pontiac is a KITT replica and has a working red LED scanner in the front. Next was a service centre / workshop for the showroom.The back section is a parts department. On the right are two service bays. The front one has a working Technic pneumatic hoist. Also PF LED lighting. The shipping containers can fit a Speed Champions car or spare parts. To keep the cars clean I next built a car wash. This has a working Technic based linear actuator to move the brushes back and forward over the car. So after a long day. It's off to the Drive In movies. The diner has a projection room, kitchen, counter, seating and toilet. My own creation cars are two NYPD police cars with working light bars. A yellow NY taxi. The two Porsche 911's are modified with brick headlights and door handles. The ambulance has working LED light bars, headlights and taillights One day I will get around to doing close up and interior photos.
  4. I came acroos the topic "Where should the next People at the ____ take place?", and I was wondering, this could be a long-running series - I hope TLG thinks it as well. Some of the ideas was a ski resort, so I made one. It is a little smaller, only 12 minifigs. Enjoy! Some features in close-up: Snow gun Girl with sledge Stuff to rent Mountain rescue Hockey player Hiker Chocolate stand Female yeti
  5. [Rules of the Topic] [Statistics] - - - - - - - - - - [Not Indexed Yet Entries] [Themes A-C] - - - - [Themes D-M] - - - - [Themes N-S] - - - - [Themes T-Z] [Begin of the entries] - - - - - - - - - - [Last Update Point] Rules of the Topic (Please read these guidelines before posting) Here are some guidelines created in order to help to maintain this topic well ordered and help to built the index! Allowed Sets Set that has been officially released by LEGO and available for the purchase. Set whose Official Instructions has been released from TLG and are available in LEGO website. IMPORTANT NOTE: if building instructions or set's references are not easily available on common sources, please report that. The Set have to be constructed using official LEGO instructions and not interpreting preliminary or official images. The Set have to contain something you can build. Sets with scattered parts or single or few minifigures are not allowed. Irregular Posts Important NOTE: Irregular entries (inserted in posts that don't respect the Topic's Rules) won't be indexed. When you fix an irregular post, inform the indexer, so that he can update the index database. Good habits Avoid unnecessary posts inside this topic, if possible. Always use a new post to add new entry/entries. Don't add (or remove!) models to any existing post. If you think to build more sets in a short period of time, don't post them one by one but amass a bit of them and then post them together. Try to avoid to post more than one time in a single day. For any question/explanation/request/communication contact the indexer using private messages, when possible. Use of images in the topic [Guide] Only images related to posted sets (and then lxf file) are allowed, as a preview. Only one image for each set is allowed. Don't quote images from other posts. Any other image can be inserted as text link. Images should be simple and clear: no "creative" images are allowed, but simple screenshots. Avoid compositions (more images in one), images with another image as background, animated images, 3D images, renderings with external software, image with custom added parts, etc... Try to place objects inside the image so that the image results compact (i.e. avoid internal large blank space if possible) but clear. Try to place the camera so that the set results well visible. Avoid flat framing but choose a good 3D angle. As images are for preview purpose only, should be not too big! Maximum size allowed is 512x512 pixels for big sets (such as castles, modular buildings, stations, large space ships, etc...). Use intermediate sizes (for example 448px, 384px, 320px, ...) for smaller models. The 256x256px size or lower is often good for small sets. Crop images completely removing horizontal and vertical blank stripes around the subject (zero-pixles margins). Insert a model Report set's data and emphasize that in bold. Set's data include set Number, set official Name and set's Theme and subtheme if any. For example: 5988 - Pharaoh's Forbidden Ruins - Theme: Adventure If the set has more "configurations" (different models), please specify which one you are reproducing with LDD (Model A, Model B, etc...). NOTE: Alternate Versions (official different configurations for the same set) are counted as separate sets. If the set has been Re-Released with an identical or similar version, report the alternate Set ID(s). Report both the version of LDD and the brickset used to build the model. Insert a screenshot of your creation, in order to provide a preview. One screenshot for each set (see the rules about images above). Report if the model is complete or some piece is missing or replaced by a custom solution. Don't divide a single set in more than one post. Put a single set in a single .lxf file. You are encouraged to use LDD groups function to separate different elements in complex sets. LDD model should be similar to the original model as much as possible. Include minifigs, if any. Replace missing decorations with suitable ones, if possible. Modified models are welcome, but in different .lxf files, as an "extra". Every personalization (personal logos, additions, changes) makes a model a "Modified Model". and obviously... Share you lxf file! Update a set Update the post where you originally inserted the set. Report the update in the Upgrade Topic. Be care to follow the rules of the Upgrade Topic. [Sets created by other users] If the set has been built by another user, contact him and ask him to update his entry. Provide some help, if you find a way to solve some issue. If contact model's builder is not possible or he don't want to update it, insert the updated model in a new post as if it is a new model, but specify it is an update and insert the link to the original model's post. Inform the indexer before posting. Book or Request a set Refer to "Official Lego sets - Book, WIP, Requests" Topic. NOTE: you can ever choose to make an already made or booked set, if you want. Besides You are encouraged to inform an LDD file maker if you notice an adjustable defect in his/her LDD file! If you notice something wrong in the index, please report it to the indexer. If you use custom pieces to replace missing bricks in LDD, please post it in the "LDD custom bricks" Topic! Rules in brief Read the rules before posting here. Only regular entries will be indexed. Allowed sets: instructions officially released, no spared parts. Report references if necessary. Insert a model General rules: don't split model in more posts, don't add or remove entries to an existing post, group entries. Don't add personalizations to the model (except in order to replace missing parts). Use Groups. Extra are allowed, as text links. Necessary content: Set's Data, Image, LXF File, Error List. - Set's data: Set's ID, Set's name, Theme/Subtheme, alternative model (Model A, B, ...), alternative Set IDs if any. - Image: one for each entry, simple screenshots, maximum size 512x (big sets), crop, not scattered, no flat view, PNG with Alpha channel. - LXF file: one for each entry, direct link, report LDD and brickset version. - Error List: missing bricks/decorations, replaced brick/decorations, brick made replacements. Various: minimal quotes, don't quote images, report errors. (index/other entries).
  6. I am struggling with the hinge tool in LDD. I use technic beams, turn plates, rocker bearings, and pegs to make various types of doors and ramps. Each time I think I have the hinge tool figured out, I get different results. When it comes to a """technic beam via pegs""" type of hinge, each beam and peg can be selected for manipulation, causing circular arrows to appear. My problem is that the entire model moves most of the time instead of the part that I want to move. The starships I make are massive and LDD freezes for up to thirty seconds each time the entire damn ship moves. I have experienced this happen while manipulating pegs or beams. At first I thought that the entire model would only move if there was a red box highlight around the entire model, so then I made sure that only the piece I selected had the red box highlight. But sometimes the entire model moves while only the one piece has the red box highlight. Every instruction and video I have experienced, neglects to explain how to actually use the hinge tool, they just cover the basics like CLICK, ARROWS, DONE. I wish it was as easy as grabbing the door and moving it with the mouse cursor. While building, I often mistakenly grab bricks from the foreground, could this be what is happening when the entire model moves instead of the door? If so, the only way to prevent it from happening is to zoom way close to the arrows, but then I can not see what is going on. I am not trying to spend most of my time zooming in and out. Regarding using the arrows, which part of the arrows should be crabbed by the cursor, the arrow head, the body or can both be used. Should I move the cursor in a ring following the contour of the arrows, or should the cursor be moved up and down? It may just be me, but if I engineered a program, I would explain such things, instead of simply stating that the hinge tool is used to manipulate hinges. Yeah but how? What part must be clicked/selected? How do you use the arrows? How do you know if the door will move, or the entire model? A couple days ago, while tinkering with hinges, I noticed that the entire model was rotated horizontally by about 20 degrees. A consequence of messing with hinges that I did not notice,.. well I noticed it, but I thought that I had accidentally clicked one of the annoying, hardly visible pan arrows. I had already saved lots of work so reloading was not an option. I ended up correcting the 20 degree rotation but forgot how I did it. Though the 20 degree rotation was corrected, the ship was now moved from it's original location. This was upsetting because I had multiple free floating objects like sliding doors that were not connected to the model, which were now outside of the ship. How would I be able to fine rotate an entire selected model, instead of the limited 45 degree changes that the keyboard arrow keys provide? Or is my only option to perform a (((disappearing hinge trick)))? Regarding the hardly visible pan arrows, why were they designed to rotate the users perspective, instead of move the perspective left/right up/down? Is there any way to invert a model? Like to turn a left into a right? Without this ability, building takes more than twice as long. Is there any way to make a brick attach to a tile plate without performing the (((disappearing stud trick)))? I noticed that not even a Lego figure can be placed on a tile plate which blew me away. My floors are always tiled because as a child I knew that walking on floors with bumps everywhere would be annoying. When I watch tutorials on YT regarding LDD, their brick selector to the left has the pieces shown in a rainbow of colors which would make finding pieces easier, but mine are all red. I like all red so I know what bricks were recently placed, but I fear I am lacking something. Also when I select the decoration tool, the popup selection window has only a couple designs to choose from. My real Lego collection had at least 150 different designs for 1x2-1x3-1x4-1x6-2x2 tile plates, yet the only tile plate in LDD that has more than a couple options is the 1x2 plate, which has a couple dozen. I fear that I do not have the full inventory of parts. Is there an update or library pack that I need to install? Any way to permanently link bricks together so in the future, when one of the linked bricks is selected/moved, the other linked bricks are selected and moved with it? When I open the color pallet window, the "Legacy" colors at the bottom are cut off by the status bar so I am unable to see all of the colors. Is the color pallet moveable somehow, or must I use a larger display in order to view it all? My lap top is only 720p. I included an image. I am unable to move this ramp door at all, but sometimes the entire ship moves while the door stays put. There is nothing blocking the movement, hidden or visible. I have worked with real Lego's since I was eight so I know every Lego brick very well. I would be having so much fun if I could actually see the things I create function, instead of massive confusion and frustration. Version - 4.3.10 Brick Version - 2248.1 WIN10
  7. I have been working on this since Rebels first came out, and I've seen a lot of really nice MOCs being built, mostly of the Phantom. But seeing so many talking about building a Ghost to match, I thought I'd show off what I have of mine so far. It is 134 studs long and 109 studs wide. The original intent was to have a full interior, I'm not 100% sure if that plan will make it through to the final design but we shall see. Currently the cockpit, main corridor, loading area, forward gun turret, Zeb&Ezra's room, Kanan's room and Sabine's room are fully fleshed out, I will probably do Hera's room since it was finally shown in season 2. I may upload those pictures in the future. But here is what I have for the exterior so far. I put in the official LEGO Ghost set for scale. Thoughts and opinions are welcome. I look forward to one day hopefully showing off the actualised model.
  8. On May 7, 1961, astronaut Alan Shepard became then first American in space. Flying the Mercury capsule "Freedom 7", he reached an altitude of 187.5km on his 15 minute sub-orbital flight. This particular model is in scale with the recent Lego Ideas 21309 Saturn V/Apollo rocket. I’ve taken the scale from the Apollo command module, assuming 1 stud = 1m. Sadly, at this small size (just 2 studs across), it isn't possible to recreate the United States logo down the side of the rocket, or the distinctive black-and-white stripes in the aft section. If anyone has advice on getting custom prints done, I'd certainly be interested. I was nearly going to use the traditional Lego rocket fin for the tail of the ship, but I decided to try and recreate the black and white patterning on the engine block using some robot arms: I'm a little concerned about my use of a 3.18mm bar in the technic axle holes to hold the base of the rocket together, as it's an unusual technique that (I think) may be damaging to the 2x2 round bricks and plates. That said, it has been used in a few Lego sets so I'm confident it is at least "legal". The model features a display stand, based on the actual launchpad of the Mercury-Redstone: The Mercury-Redstone comes with a separate Mercury capsule on its own display stand - this version includes a 1x1 round plate on the base to represent the retro-rocket pack. This was a small engine that fired to bring Freedom 7 down to Earth on a good trajectory, but unfortunately there isn't the space to include it on the rocket stack. The Mercury capsule was topped by a 4.8m red escape tower, which would propel the capsule up and away from an exploding booster. While never used on manned flights (fortunately), it saw incredibly frequent use during the early testing of rockets! A nanofigure astronaut is included for scale… and yes, Mercury really was that tiny!! This is a digital MOC and hasn't been tested in real life. An older version has appeared on mecabricks, but this one has been updated to use parts that actually exist. Comments and criticism are always appreciated!
  9. So my question is, since when do we have two different minifig leg parts with separate functionality? I never actually noticed until now...
  10. Here is N-1 I have been working on. It is based originally on Mike Psiaki's and then scott34567's model he did also based on Mike's. I removed the laser canons on the front since they are hidden on the N-1 except for the small exit hole. I also fleshed out the bottom of the hull based on pictures from the set pieces from the movie. I also did a lot of internal work to strengthen optimize and strengthen the model. Any feedback or suggestions would be great. I'm working on building in bricks right now. I just snagged the newest Lego version (75092) off of craigslist for $15 so I'm just getting my Bricklink order together for the extra pieces I need. Final Version! The model is complete, and built in bricks. The only thing left to do is get some proper studio photos! Below is a .zip file with the LXF file, instruction booklet (built with Blueprint) and a Brickstock parts list (I took out the astromech droid parts) LXF / Instructions / Parts List If you end up building your own I'd love to see pictures! Naboo N1 Fighter by James Eilers, on Flickr Naboo N1 Fighter by James Eilers, on Flickr N1 Pilot by James Eilers, on Flickr
  11. From (another) rib of Blueprint, another program was born! I hereby offer you: BrickyFab upload your LDD models to Sketchfab. How it works: Just open the program, load an LDD model , enter your Sketchfab API, add some descriptions and tags and click Upload. Features: Single click interface, remembers your key and tags. Share your models around with Sketchfab fine embedded visualizer (works in Facebook too!) etc Requirements: Java8 (revision 8u40 or better) A Sketchfab account Lego Digital Designer Disclaimer: Use at your own risk, i decline any responsability for anything that may happen to you using the program. Donation: Should you like the program and you feel like, you can donate any amount of money here: https://www.paypal.me/msx80 thanks in advance! Download: Download the latest version here! Screenshot: See some 3d models here! Changelog: 0001: first release!
  12. Hi, I have a weird problem after I installed LDD 4.3.10 in a new Lenovo T470s laptop running Windows 10 Creator's update. LDD will run without any kinds of crash, and display the models just right and with full performance, but the UI is lacking the blue toolbar on the top (the one with the Open and Save buttons). It just shows a blue thick line instead. I have an old Lenovo laptop running the same resolution than this new one, and everything looks fine there. It is also running Windows 10 Creator's update. Just to be sure, I uninstalled LDD and reinstalled using the same file that I downloaded on the new laptop. And everything still looks fine. I also checked which drivers I got installed, and I got all latest Lenovo recommended updates, including graphics drivers. There is an additional problem also. The mouse cursor seems to have an offset. I mean, when you try to press on a UI button or checkbox, then the button gets highlighted only when the mouse is slightly below the button. This is really weird. Did someone encounter this problem already?
  13. Hi folks! Year 2090. The colonization of the planet Mars is a reality. To develop an autosufficent civilization is important to find a solution to recreate the flora in the planet. So, here it is the botanical research center. It consist in a laboratory, four greenhouses (temperate forest, tropical forest, crops and fruit plants), a control room, a meeting room and some services. Each minifig colour represent its division: - green: laboratory; - blue: supervisor; - red: forests greenhouses; - yellow: crops; - black: fruit plants greenhouse; - white: technics; - grey: director. The model it is not a 100% neo classic space theme, I've changed some colour scheme due to the lack of yellow trasparent pieces; also, we're in Mars not on the moon! ;) P.s. the spherical classic space logo is a recreation of ones that I found on google. I've just changed the colour and added a plant, to represent the research division. Here you can find the LDD file:http://www.bricksafe.com/pages/zazavolley/neo-classic-space/botanical-research-center
  14. I tried to learn use the ldd with an instruction, but I found it seems ldd does not allow me to fit these 2 parts. Can someone tell me how to?
  15. I always want a proper model based on Agent Coulson's flying car and fortunately the new Avengers Video Game have a really good looking one. So i decided to build it at least in LDD. The "work" beginned with taking a lot of screenshots from every angle the whole and the exploded car. I'm very happy with the final build and i hope you like it too. Here is the final model and it's LDD: I also built an updated one for better structure in the inside: LDD Update: Added some flying pics:
  16. I propose to keep here an up-to-date ldraw.xml, the file used by LDD to convert to and from LDraw files. Download: latest version On Windows: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Mac: download and replace the one in the “Contents\Resources\” folder in the app (open “Applications” in Finder, right click on the “LEGO Digital Designer” package and select the “Show Package Contents” option to explore the pakage folders). (Thanks manglegrat!) If you have other modifications or additions, post them here or send me a personal message and I’ll include them to the benefit of all. If you need a part, feel free to ask here and I’ll try to add it (provided it exists in LDraw and LDD). History and Contents It’s based upon gallaghersart’s latest version (see this thread). It includes the modifications shutterfreak published in his thread. It uses some of the LDraw unofficial parts (mainly for new parts in LDD Brick version 2075). It includes some name corrections (because LDraw renamed or moved some parts, added new variants, etc.). I tried to more accurately convert the colors (now mainly according to Ryan Howerter’s conversion table). It’s not easy because all sources (Swooshable, Mecabricks, Ryan) don’t agree, and there are holes and overlaps. But as these differences, holes, and overlaps occur for rare colors or colors that aren’t available in LDD, it should be okay. In a megalomaniacal way, all the entries I have modified have an “SLS” at the end of their heading comments. New entries have an “SLS” at the front of the comments. So it’s easy to know when to blame me. As of 2016-09-16 and the big overhaul, I assume all the errors. Know Limitations As of LDD 4.3.9, flex parts (hoses) are not exported anymore (even unflexed). Minifig arms and hands are not connected in LDraw. I don’t know whose geometry is off (both?) but the shapes differ a lot. At least, hands are correctly connected to whatever they clip and arms are correctly placed in their sockets and somewhat wrap around the hands’s stems. Some variants are not recognized by LDD (e.g. clips, or tiles with/without groove, etc.) In those cases, I prefer to use the most recent variant in LDraw as it generally is easier to find and cheaper. Sometimes, several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part. Sometimes, the transformation is accurate for one variant but not for another. For example, the Flag 2 x 2 is known to LDD as 2335, 11055, and 60779, but LDraw only has the 2335 variant. 2335 and 60779 use the same transformation but 11055 is vertically offset. I preferred to badly convert 11055 to 2335 rather than not convert it at all or badly convert 2335 and 60779. ldraw.xml is used both ways (LDD to/from LDraw). It’s not something I do frequently (too many resulting collisions) so it’s not well tested. One problem I can see is that, when several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part, the conversion that’s listed last is the one that will be used. The reverse (first written is the one used) is true for assemblies that use the same subparts, in the same quantity (like electric cables). A lot of LDraw parts are simply wrong. Almost all the parts that combine System (studs and anti-studs) and Technic (pins and axles, and their holes) are wrong in that they assume the technic holes are at the same height than side studs (on the picture below, the circles are concentric). LDD assumes the holes are 0.2 mm (0.5 LDU) higher. In ABS, the holes are 0.12 mm (0.375 LDU) higher (dixit Jamie Berard in his famous presentation). In order to limit the number and magnitude of errors, LDD is considered to be right. How to write a new transformation for a part in ldraw.xml What? ldraw.xml is an XML file that defines how LDD can export to (or import from) LDraw files. It does so by defining a match between the part’s IDs and how to rotate and translate the part from one geometry to the other. Matches are defined by “Brick” XML elements. For example, this one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 that it knows as 3005 is also known to LDraw as 3005: <Brick ldraw="3005.dat" lego="3005" /> (Note the “.dat” in the ldraw ID.) Matches are not needed if the part IDs are the same: the transformation element is sufficient for LDD to know the part exists. (So the example above is useless ) Rotations and translations are defined by “Transformation” XML elements. This one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 just needs to be moved up: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> The translation (tx, ty, and tz) is in centimeters (0.8 cm is the width of a brick, 0.96 cm its height). The rotation is given by its axis (the line passing through and ), and its angle in radians. And all the coordinates are in the direct (“riht-handed”), Y points up, coordinates system of LDD. The transformation explains what should be done to import from LDraw besides changing the axes (LDD’s Y is up and XYZ is a direct basis, LDraw’s Y is down and XYZ is an indirect basis; so changing the axes only means changing the sign of Y). So, in an LDD to LDraw point of view, the transformation is reversed: it says what happens to a part if you don’t do anything to its coordinates besides changing the sign of Y. In other words, the opposite transformation has to be applied to the LDD coordinates of the part in order to get the LDraw coordinates (with Y reversed). Why? Each part has an orientation (which way up? which way left?) and a center, point of origin, or reference point (we’ll use “reference point” from now on). But LDD and LDraw don’t always agree. To know the orientation and reference point in LDD, insert the part without rotating it nor attaching it to any other part. It will be aligned along the scene’s axes (LDD’s axes). The reference point is near the mouse pointer’s head. To know the orientation and reference point in LDraw, I find LeoCAD the easiest tool: just select the part and its axes are drawn (X red, Y green, Z blue), starting at its reference point. Okay, LeoCAD’s «X, Y, Z» is LDraw’s «X, -Z, Y» but what’s another little change of basis? Sometimes, their disagreement is trivial. For example, for the simple 1x1 brick (3005), both LDD and LDraw agree: the stud is on top and the reference point is on the vertical line going through the center of the stud. But they differ for the height at which the reference point should be: LDD says it’s at the base of the brick, LDraw at its top (but at the base of the stud). (On every picture, X will be red, Y green, and Z blue.) So the transformation for that part is straightforward: if the LDraw part is imported as is, with only Y reversed, it will end up 0.96 cm (the height of the brick) higher than it should. So we have to lower it by 0.96 cm: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> Sometimes, their disagreement is more profound and the transformation is therefore more complicated. For example, for the musket (Minifig Gun Musket 2561), LDD puts the reference point in the handle and “up” means the handle is vertical but LDraw puts the reference point in the barrel and “up” means the barrel is vertical. Even more, the stock is on the wrong side, so X and Z are different too. With an identity transformation, the part is rotated by an eighth of a turn (X to Y) (π/4) around the Z axis to put the barrel vertical, and then by a quarter turn (X to Z) (-π/2) around the Y axis. After that, it has been translated up and horizontally. After calculations (see below), we’ll end up with this transformation: <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> How? So, how do we find the right values to have the correct transformations? What’s the ID? Having the right part Check the ID of the part in LDD. Check the ID of the part in LDraw. Beware of variants, LDraw uses a letter suffix (a, b, c…) where LDD totally changes the ID or keeps the same ID for new variants. Don’t hesitate to look on BrickLink for the part ID: BrickLink keeps a list of alternate IDs (when the same part has several IDs) and links to variants and notes. If the IDs are the same. Nothing to do. If the IDs differ. We add a Brick element: <Brick ldraw="123a.dat" lego="456" /> Don’t forget the “.dat”! That was the easy part. Which way is up? Finding the rotation axis and angle We start in LDD. Up is Y, or Y is up. X and Z are a bit harder to see on the LDD scene unless you use LDD’s developper mode (which has the LDD axes drawn at «0,0,0» as red X, green Y, and blue Z lines). Or, if you’re sure you didn’t move the camera in a brand new model/file, X is pointing bottom right, and Z bottom left. We place our part among other parts that we know will be correctly converted (like 1x1 plates, or harpoons ) to have references. Using different colors greatly helps! We export to LDraw… … and look at the results: We decompose the transformation in multiple simple rotations, around the X, Y, or Z axis. If it has been turned around X, a quarter turn from Y to Z is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Z, a quarter turn from X to Y is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Y, a quarter turn from Z to X is a positive π/2 angle. To make it short, it’s a direct (right-handed) basis. If you can’t figure out the problems with an existing transformation, “clear” it by using an identity transformation: <transformation tx="0" ty="0 tz="0" ax="0" ay="1" az="0 angle="0"/> (All zeroes but one of the a_ which is 1.) You can try each simple rotation one by one to be sure of their angles (especially their signs ). Beware, combining rotations change their axes (e.g. turning around first X then Y is equivalent to turning around first Y then Z). So if you check that the Y rotation is okay, then the X rotation, don’t forget to combine them as Y then Z. For the musket, we need two rotations: an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z (blue) axis that puts the barrel vertical, and then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis. Or we can first make the quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis, and then an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the X (red) axis. Remember, “import”-wise, we’re trying to find what should happen to the part in the LDD scene to be like the LDraw one, with the LDD axes (the harpoons ). My head is turning. Combining rotations If more than one simple rotation is needed, we have to combine them. For that, we’ll use quaternions. Eh come back! That’s not that difficult! A quaternion q can be written as q = a + b.i + c.j + d.k, where i² = j² = k² = i.j.k = -1 (so i.j = k = -j.i, j.k = i = -k.j, k.i = j = -i.k). a is the real part, b.i + c.j + d.k is the imaginary part. A rotation by the angle angle around the axis «ax, ay, az» is the quaternion q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) Do note the 1/2 factor on the angle! To combine two rotations, we just multiply their quaternions and apply the rules above to end up with a a + b.i + c.j + d.k form (or, more accurately, a C + S.(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) form, where C and S are cosine and sine of the same angle and ax² + ay² + az² = 1 ). If we rotate first by q and then by p, the result is the rotation by p.q. Note the order: q then p is p.q. Multiplication is not commutative with quaternions: if you do it the wrong way, you’ll end up with the correct values but the wrong signs. There’re lots of fun to have with quaternions and rotations as quaternions. But what is said here is sufficient for our purposes. An example: Most of the times, we do π/2 rotations (quarter turns, 90°). angle = π/2 therefore cos(angle/2) = sin(angle/2) = cos(π/4) = sin(π/4) = √2/2; So, for a “horizontal” quarter turn (yaw, around Y): q = √2/2 + √2/2.j (as j/Y is the “vertical” axis). Let’s combine it with a half turn (π, 180°) around the X axis (IOW, upside-down): cos(π/2) = 0, sin(π/2) = 1, so p = 0 + i p.q = (0 + i) . (√2/2 + √2/2 j) = √2/2 i + √2/2 i.j = 0 + √2/2 ( i + k ) Now, let’s get the resulting angle: The real part of p.q, 0, is the cosine of angle/2. 0 is also the cosine of ±π/2 (±90°). Therefore, the resulting angle is π (180°). Now the axis, «ax, ay, az»: It’s the √2/2( i + k) imaginary part. That’s the vector «√2/2, 0, √2/2». We need to remove the sin(angle/2) factor. That’s easy as the sine of π/2 is 1. So our axis is «ax = √2/2, ay = 0, az = √2/2». Written in ldraw.xml: ax="0.707…" ay="0" az="0.707…" angle="3.1415…" Another one, a quarter turn around Y and then around X: q = √2/2 + √2/2 j = √2/2 (1 + j) p = √2/2 + √2/2 i = √2/2 (1 + i) p.q = 1/2 (1 + i) (1 + j) = 1/2 + 1/2 (i + j + k) We rewrite it as p.q = 1/2 + √3/2 (√⅓ i + √⅓ j + √⅓ k) to have a unit vector (ax² + ay² + az² = 1) in the parenthesis and to clarify the cosine and sine: 1/2 and √3/2. They are the sine and cosine of π/3 (60°). Therefore, the resulting angle is 2π/3 (120°). In ldraw.xml: ax="0.577…" ay="0.577…" az="0.577…" angle="2.094…" Back to our musket: An eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z axis that puts the barrel vertical: q = cos(π/8) + sin(π/8).i = C + S.k Then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y axis: p = cos(-π/4) + sin(-π/4).j = √2/2 (1 - j) p.q = √2/2.(1 - j)(C + S.k) = √2/2.(C - S.j.k - C.j + S.k) = √2/2.C + (-√2/2.S.i - √2/2.C.j + √2/2.S.k) Wow! Hum, okay. So √2/2.cos(-π/8) is the cosine of half our angle. Get the calculator out… angle/2 = Acos(√2/2.cos(-π/8)) = 0.8589 Our angle is 1.7178. We “remove” the sine of angle/2 from our vector, so that p.q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k): ax = -√2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.3574 ay = -√2/2.cos(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.8629 az = √2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = 0.3574 As an exercise, you can verify that ax² + ay² + az² = 1. So we did it right! Et voilà: ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016" One step to the left. Getting the translation right Now that the part is correctly oriented, it may need to be moved. The translation is in centimeters (cm). 20 LDU = 0.8 cm. Values are often multiples of 0.4 (half a stud) for tx and tz and multiples of 0.32 (height of a plate) for ty. Other, finer, tunings are often in multiples of 0.008. If the rotation is complex, all bets are off In LDD, we try to place the part so that its LDraw up axis ends up up in the scene, and we try to align its LDraw X and Z axes with X and Z of the scene (at least, that it is not rotated by a weird angle). That way, moving the part along its axes is also moving the part along the scene’s axes. It will be easier for getting the translation right. For our musket, that means the barrel up. (I didn’t align the X and Z axes here because, yeah, I’m a warrior, I don’t need that. Besides, you’ll see what happens because of that. ) Again, I find it easier in LeoCAD: the key bindings, the coordinates clearly shown in the status bar, etc. The thing is, LeoCAD uses a direct Z up basis. So if you move «dx, dy, dz» in LeoCAD, you’re moving «dx, -dz, dy» in LDD (and vice versa). Confusing? Noooh. Anyway, choose your own poison but beware of its little quirks. To help fine tuning, using transparent colors greatly helps, especially for clip-bar connections. Now, we note the coordinates of our part in our LDraw editor and move it so that it ends up the way it should. We look how much we moved it. That’s it! Just convert it to cm (= LDU × 0.8 / 20) and we have our translation. Well, mostly, the signs are wrong. Remember: the transformation is what should happen to the LDD part to end up like the LDraw part, we just did the opposite and moved the LDraw part to be like the LDD one. Besides the signs, if you didn’t correctly align the axes, you’ll have to find which is which For our musket, we need to go up and sligthly to the “left” (from bottom right to upper left when your LDraw view is oriented as a new LDD file, as are all the screenshots here). That means negative dy and dx. But as the part is not aligned on X and Z (but still not badly rotated), the negative dx becomes a positive dz. Et voilà! <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> (So, okay. I had to try first tx then tz, both negative and positive, before I found the right one. But I didn’t want to have to remake the pictures! There: I’m not a warrior, I’m just lazy.)
  17. "Don't Ask Me Who I Am. You Say-" -Qlenasy ---- Born from the Lunar domain, she rarely leaving her residents, however she often gaze upon the distance at the Dusk Shore. Despite being a maiden, she's the Branch Chief of the Lunar Empire. If the Empress decease without a child, Qlenasy will take the throne. Qlenasy have 4 type of emotion she can swap to; ---- Neutral = Balanced, Intelligent, Cautious Her vanilla state. Despite the lack of expression in this form, she can still use small portion of her other 3 facial power in this form. ---- Alluring = Happy, Loving, Cheerful Despite her bright face, she can still pose a treat in this form. The Jantukum Flower is an exclusive plant found only in the Lunar Valley, but it can also act like a bomb by fluorously combusting. ---- Psychotic = Demonic, Sinister, Deviant While shes not psychopathic in this form, it's know to be the most dangerous from all 4 forms. A cut from the Schizo Blade open up a gap of fear throughout the target membrane. ---- Sorrowful = Enraged, Depressed, Reckless With blood pouring through her eyes, this isn't just most unhealthy form to face against, but also painful to battle against. The Dual Grim Flail-Blade create vase energy which can duplicate itself in combat. ---- Etc:
  18. Hello from France Guys ! I'm Bricks Feeder and it's my first topic on Eurobricks! :) I show you my MOC of the TIE Advanced Prototype (aka The Sith Inquisitor's TIE) seen on the SW Rebels series. I will make some pictures of my advance in the future but for the moment, I give you some videos (of my YouTube Channel) of my prototype on LDD. This MOC is based on the original LEGO set 75082. The "wings" were directly inspired by this forum on Eurobricks (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index...). I'm trying to build a "cool" Interior of the cockpit. For that point, I'm inspired by the awesome TIE Fighters short film. I'm trying to be "accurate" but it's difficult when you found pictures of a subject with different "shapes" or variations of shape between them. So I based my model on the first appearance of this fighter in the Rebels Show... I made a second version with some upgrades of the articulations of the "wings" to get it stronger. Moreover, I change all the back! I'll continue to work on it. I am not satisfied yet ! I'll show you my advance and if I can, the real one! If you have some ideas or constructive criticisms, share with me please! I want to upgrade my skills! :) Enjoy and have a nice day! P.S. : If you have the time... Check my You Tube Channel! ;)
  19. On February 20th 1960, U.S astronaut John Glenn became the first American to orbit the Earth. Piloiting the Mercury capsule “Friendship 7”, launched atop a newly up-rated Atlas rocket, he successfully made three orbits of the Earth. The mission suffered various glitches, including thruster issues and a possible loose heat shield (which could have been fatal), but was essentially a complete success and paved the way for future American space exploration. (Base image from Wikipedia) This particular model is in scale with the recent Lego Ideas 21309 Saturn V/Apollo rocket. I’ve taken the scale from the Apollo command module, assuming 1 stud = 1m. The Atlas rocket was a 1.5 stage rocket. Unlike the Saturn V, which dropped complete assemblies of fuel-tanks and engines, the Atlas rocket jettisoned it’s two outer engines on the way to orbit. This is possible on the model: The Mercury-Atlas comes with a separate Mercury capsule on its own display stand - this version includes a 1x1 round plate on the base to represent the retro-rocket pack. This was used to de-orbit and return Friendship 7 to Earth, but unfortunately there isn't the space to include it on the rocket stack. The Mercury capsule is topped by a 4.8m red escape tower, which would propel the capsule up and away from an exploding booster. While never used on manned flights (fortunately), it saw incredibly frequent use during the Atlas rocket's early testing! A nanofigure astronaut is included for scale… and yes, Mercury really was that tiny!! This is a digital MOC and hasn't been tested in real life. Comments and criticism is always appreciated - I would also welcome advice on how to build a suitable display stand. There’s no way the rocket can stand on its engines, and not many connection points left near the base!
  20. Hi everyone. I took some time to show you guys how to enable LDD's developer mode and all the tings it can do. Here are a just a few examples of the things you can do in dev. mode: You can render bricks in wireframe: You can use the various rendering modes to show the collision objects of the bricks and color them in some trippy colors: And the best thing of all, you can DISABLE COLLISIONS in order to place bricks in almost any manner: I made a short video on how to unlock LDD developer mode and all the other things you can do with it here: I hope you guys find this info useful and save yourself a lot of work when LDD's collisions give you a headache
  21. LDD/MLCad 15D The Black Pearl Project - A joint venture by Courleciel and Papacharly EDIT April 1st 2015: Black Pearl mpd-file is available now. Please also note the relevant post #15 below! End of last year I had been invited by Courleciel to join a project he already started. The goal of this project was to virtually build the Black Pearl from the Lego video game “Pirates of the Caribbean” and, in a second step, to “make great renderings”. At this time the ship had already been built by Courleciel in real bricks. Starting point for this project was an “old” lxf-file (Lego Digital Designer) by captainjack. The virtual model was significantly optimized by Courleciel so as to make it more accurate and complete. A lot of parts have been repainted, some new elements were added (such as anchors, bell, grating, cannons...), and some were adjusted or rebuilt (like the capstan, figurehead, lanterns, masts...). After the model was nearly completed, the LDD file was converted to the LDraw format and my job started. According to Courleciels conceptual work I added rigging, rails, ropes and strings by using SR3D Builder and MLCad/LSynth. Sails were directly created in povray. Additionally it was necessary to manipulate some original LDraw parts (e.g. # x1609 batarang, see stern) to make them authentic with regard to the video game. Finally we decided on all setups for being rendered. All renders have status “as rendered”. There was no “photoshopping” applied, aside from scaling down and anti-aliasing. I have not counted all the hours I spent working on this project. But doing all the work Courleciel and me had a lot of fun. So we hope that you also will enjoy our work and have some fun too. High resolution “technical renders” showing the conceptual work of Courleciel can be found here. For high resolution images of the movie scenes click here. And here is the outcome of our project:: First we have some technical renders of the Black Pearl. Then we show some movie scene remakes. For all those which are not familiar with “Pirates of the Carribean”, please find the original movie scene respectively an original video game screenshot below each rendering. Here comes a remake of a video game screenshot: Two movie scenes from part 1 "The Curse of the Black Pearl": Movie scene “Pantano River” from part 2 "Dead Man’s Chest" Two movie scenes “Locker” from part 3 "At World’s End" Last but not least we have an atmospheric and maybe kitschy sunset render which is not related to any movie scene.
  22. Hi, hope this is the right place to ask this question. I'm trying to build a small cone-shaped structure that changes diameter from 5 studs down to 2 studs with a height of only 6 plates. Stacking 6942 "lamp shade" on top of 15395 "dome 2x2 inverted with one stud" looks like it should fit, but LDD refuses to allow this connection. I even tried adding 1x1 plates as a scaffold. An exploded view of the assembly is this: I don't own either of these parts, so could someone tell me - is this really an impossible connection, or can it be done in real life?
  23. I have put together a compilation of different Imperial Kyber crystal container designs I have come across. All except the Lego version can hold crystals. Inthert's can hold the 30153 crystal and all of the others can hold a 1x1 cylinder with a flat round tile on top to mimic the internal cylindrical containers seen spilling out in Rogue One. The two designs to the right are my own with a shorter version below. It is interesting to see all of the variations on a small item like this. I think Markus19840420's is actually my favorite. What are everyone's thoughts? Kyber-Containers by James Eilers wolf.leews-無 (Flickr) markus19840420 (Flickr) Inthert (flickr) / Inthert (Instagram post of of Kyber Container) Here is the LDD File.
  24. edited to put all final images in the first post... After seeing the LEGO movie, I wanted to re-create buildings from Emmet's neighborhood. While researching, I realized a great deal of what was in the movie was based on previously-existing sets. I thought it would be interesting to do a project that compared the original LEGO sets to the modified movie versions. Knowing how much time, money, and physical space it would take to build these out of real bricks, I decided to try my hand at LEGO Digital Designer (LDD). After having created a couple of the buildings in LDD, I ran across the post for Bluerender and used it to generate photo-real renderings. Here are my results: .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...logo_final_.lxf The latest image posts: Nathan Sawaya's Oscar statue from the 2015 Academy Awards. The latest WIP of Emmet's Mech (with BlackStar): .lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/movie_emmetsmech_2017-06-04.lxf Emmet's apartment Emmet's apartment interior How Emmet fits a 50-stud-wide apartment into a 30-stud-wide building: A variation on Emmet's apartment (green with a slanted roof) Pet Store (right) Pet Store (left) Plumber Joe's apartment .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...the_plumber.lxf Condemned building Fresh Fruit market Sherrie Scratchen-Post's apartment Emmet's street Emmet's street in micro scale Fire Brigade .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...ire_brigade.lxf Fire Brigade tower (original) Fire Brigade Tower (updated) Filling Station Garage Street Corner Rooftop garden 1 Rooftop garden 2 An example of the reuse of building parts Warehouse 1 Warehouse 2 (Fire Brigade) Mega Green Grocer Bricksburg Castle Bricksburg Castle back Cafe Corner / hotel with clock tower Fish (market?/restaurant?) Office(?) Building Office Building Church It's not mentioned in the images, but the the ice cream cart in this image, the giant Green Grocer, and the "fish" building comes from 10211 Grand Emporium. Cheese Slope building Fire Brigade Radio Station Plaza with Bob's Kabobs Here are some Bricksburg accessories from the Movie, including garbage containers, rooftop details, a street corner, billboards, and the mosaics from the "fish" and "fresh fruit" buildings, including the LDD file, for you to use in your own MOCs: lxf file: http://www.brickshel...accessories.lxf Condemned building Condemned building Ma and Pa Cop's house Highway Overpass Monorail stop Skyscraper ground level The Coffee Chain Skyscraper 1 Skyscraper 2 Skyscraper 3 Skyscraper 4 Skyscraper 5 Skyscraper 6 Skyscraper 7 Downtown: Flying cranes Downtown: Larry's flying coffee machine Skyscraper under construction 1 Skyscraper under construction 2 Construction site Small cement mixer Tipper Truck Cement mixer Dump Truck Crawler Crane Instruction Tube Large crawler crane Instruction Holder Building cranes Building crane Construction helicrane Brick sorter Front end loader Back hoe Heavy loader Rush hour traffic Small car Public transportation, monorail, and Surfer Dave's car SUV Small van Delivery truck Police cruiser SWAT van Octan HQ micro scale upper floors Octan HQ micro scale Octan HQ from Finn's basement Octan HQ minifig scale Lord Business' relic room Octan corridor with MetalBeard and Benny Octan sound stage--news conference stage Octan sound stage--80s-something technology Octan sound stage--Where Are My Pants? Octan DJ booth Octan Executive Conference Room The many moods of MetalBeard MetalBeard's strong, virile body MetalBeard's "Down on the Farm" form Mrs. Scratchen-Post's kitty sled lxf file: http://www.brickshel...post_sleigh.lxf A Christmas tree assembled by The LEGO Movie Master Builders Emmet's snow sculpture Mark Mothersbaugh's LEGO energy domes from the 2015 Academy Awards Awards given to all Emmet Awards nominees More on the way!
  25. I present to you the back bone of the Rebel Alliance – the GR-75 Rebel Transport: After having tweaked and tweaked for my last MOC (Medical Frigate) and built a fleet of fighters and smaller ships for it, I wanted to build something bigger - but in the same scale. I chose the beautiful, organic looking 90-meters long, Rebel Transport. The Medical Frigate can be seen here: http://www.eurobrick...pic=129607&st=0 http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=131170 The Transport is the workhorse of the Rebel alliance, transporting equipment from base to base. The ship can house dozens of odd sized containers kept in place by strong magnetic locks. The Transport, like so many other Rebel ships, have a very organic and beat up look – getting this look right was the biggest challenge when designing the moc. The scale of the model is 1: 250 meaning it is built at 2 meters per stud. Thus the Transport is 45 studs long. Building the most detailed 45 stud version of the ship was my main goal. Based on pictures of the movie model I calculated the width and curvature of the ship – I fired up LDD and began building. What I ended up with was an 850+ brick model made up of 150+ brick types: The Transport takes flight! Front view. In this picture the curvature of the ship is very pronounced. To my luck the range of curved bricks fit perfectly with curvature of the ship. When placed along a central spine they further underline the lines the Transport has across the hull. Don’t mind the small hole in the front – one of the hinges is slightly too bent. Top view. I have mostly used white 1 x 4 curved slopes to get the proper shape. However, to get the dirty, rugged look of the ship, I have mixed in a number of different colors and other curved slopes. The Cargo. The GR-75 can carry a LOT of containers. Creating this part of the ship was kind of a chore but also very fun. At this scale I had just enough resolution to attempt recreating every single cargo container and detail from the studio model. I found a picture of the model showing the bottom up and began mapping every container pipe and greeble I could. I recreated it all with bricks of matching colors, pipes, taps and odd shaped pieces. The end result matches the haphazard stacking of the studio model – I’m glad I put the magnetic locks in place… :) Containers from the back. As with the Medical Frigate, one of the challenges was creating a sturdy non-interfering stand. With this ship one of the stands is placed in the middle of the containers. However I did not want to sacrifice even a single compartment so I found a workaround using transparent wall pieces. The slim piece is fitted snugly in between a number of containers and is just connected via two studs – but it seems to hold :) Container close up. They are all there :) Starboard profile view. This angle reveals the slight sloping of the hull towards the rear end of the ship. The curving effect was achieved by a number of plate hinges and four sections with slightly different angles. Port profile view. The profile views show the gap between the top and bottom hull plates. This gap has a jagged effect on the studio model – conveyed here by 1 x 1 and 1 x 2 plates. Side detail. Yes, there is actually detailing in the narrow gap between the hull plates. Again, the greebling is based on looking at the studio model – and on what was possible in such a small area :) Engine view. As always, one of my favorite parts of a ship. Getting all the engines to fit in there was a bit of a challenge. Rear view. As the Transport flies out of focus the uneven surface is again evident. The Transport has a very small command/deflector module - the little thing on top of the spine. To be in scale this module should actually be about half a stud smaller – even smaller than a B-wing cockpit section. However, the 2,5 stud test I did, did not look very good :) Lastly a scale comparison with the Medical Frigate – and the rest of the rebel fleet :) Thanks to all the supporters of the Medical Frigate project, you have helped make this model possible! Everyone can get the LDD for the Rebel Transport here: https://www.dropbox..../GR-75.lxf?dl=0 Enjoy and please comment!