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Found 289 results

  1. Oops, @Milan can you close this topic, it double posted itself. Thanks!
  2. My latest build matches my passion for motoring culture: it's the MOONEYES headquarters located in Santa Fe Springs, California. MOONEYES was founded by Dean Moon in 1950, the Santa Fe Springs-based hot rod shop was originally titled Moon Speed Equipment. The Moon crew was a prominent group of go-fast pioneers through the ‘50s and ‘60s, working hand in hand with the likes of legends such as Carroll Shelby — in fact, the first AC Cobra was constructed in the Moon garage. Inspired by the Dean Moon’s history I've recreated the MOON HQ, both the interior and the exterior of the building. In the garage there’re a lot of tools: a roller cabinet, a workbench, the pendant lights, a sink, the column drill press and a lot more. Everything in bright yellow of course. Remarkable the American flag hanged on the wall and the electrical outlets and conduits. What about the surfboard displayed on the wall? The exterior is enjoyable and it features many details. The two rolling shutters and the electricity poles are the ones I prefer. To complete the work I've built the well known and famous MOON pick-up, a ’68 Ford F100, and a Hot Rod based on a ’32 Ford model B. More info and pictures on my flickr. Thanks for stopping by.
  3. We all know that LEGO will not release many of our favorite movie or television characters. Here is thr place to show off your purist figures! Rules (I know, bad word, but must be done): 1. Absolutely must be purist. That means no 3rd party brands, knockoffs, or any custom printing. These must be made from existing LEGO parts. 2. No Star Wars, Marvel, or DC characters. There are separate forums for those. 3. Keep the profanity to a minimum. We have people of all ages here. No hard cursing. Otherwise, let's do this!
  4. Hello everyone ! Some months ago, I designed several custom parts that could be parts of the current CCBS. Earlier this week, I finally decided to order them. And they arrived today. So, ladies and gentlemen, I'm proud to show you the first Hero Factory custom parts ! First of all, here's a render of my parts altogether : And here are the parts I received this morning : I ordered them on Shapeways, I chose Frosted Ultra Detail. And the final result is very clean, it almost looks like real Lego parts ! Unfortunately, this material is very fragile, so I won't use them in MOCs, at the moment they are only prototypes, but I hope I will be able to produce those parts in wider quantities within the next twelve months. Here's a "comparison" with the official "equivalent" parts from Lego : And here's an example of what can be done with such parts : I could build more, but sincerely, I'm afraid to break my parts if I stress them too much. But anyways, this first try is quite concluding, and I hope I will very soon be able to make more of these. If you want to see more pictures, check the Brickshelf gallery (not public yet). P.S. : Plus, they smell good. I'm not good at recognizing odors, but I would say it smells like teen spirit almond.
  5. This car has been in the works for a month now. A big thanks to Sariel's Lego model scaler for proper proportion and Brunojj1 for pushing me to use scaling. It is truely rewarding building a detailed car. Dugald built the awesome chassis, and I designed and built the rest. This beast has a custom made supercharged V12, working steering wheel, servo for steering and 2x XL motors for drive, torsion bar suspension. Utilizing the large Porsche rims, we had to gear down the servo so it turns proper. The toughest part of this build were the doors & torsion bar suspension. This car has 1880 pieces, 956 pieces in the framework, and 924 pieces in the body work. Complete instructions: https://goo.gl/photos/yTNQBTbuJEQuso2b7 Professional instructions by Thorsten: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/Thorsten50/ferrari-fxx-supercharged-v12-red Video: Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHskJaShgY MOC PAGES: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/432696 Front view: Dugald built this whole Chassis - This allowed me to have enough black for the entire car Rear end: Butterfly doors Style All doors, hood and trunk open Top View Bottom View V12 Supercharger courtesy of my Brother IMG_9806 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr One of my inspirations:
  6. Wood Elf Wardancer - Danse Macabre A lone Wardancer, entangled in a dreadful dance, overcoming foul demons in a spiral vortex of blades. Those suscectible to the divine rhythms of nature can see her ever-changing paths and follow them accordingly. Wardancers move swiftly along these unseen patterns in order to remove any creature who tries to block the flow of energy. They rely on the protection of the three blue tokens bestowed by the goddess herself. Wardancer - Danse Macabre by MWardancer, auf Flickr Wardancer (front) by MWardancer, auf Flickr Wardancer (back) by MWardancer, auf Flickr Customization Techniques For this fig I pushed the boundaries of what I can do and I am very glad how it turned out. It draws a lot of inspiration from the Warhammer figs. From top to bottom: Hair: Elf hairpiece painted Torso: new Poison Ivy torso painted and covered in semi-glossy (new technique!) afterwards Arms: yellow arms dipped (new technique!) in paint; Brickwarriors bladed vambraced painted and glued on. Legs: new Poison Ivy legs painted three times and covered in semi-glossy paint afterwards; Brickwarriors vambraces cut to fit and painted and coated Spear: head of an elaborate spear cut off, head of a Brickwarriors Clarissa Spear cut off, painted and glued on; two whips cut off and painted Sword: Brickwarriors Xiphos Sword Painted; the stag head is the inside of a fingernail art stencil, painted blue
  7. This is my own rendition of the snow speeders from Hoth. This took less than a day to build, because it is a lot like the actual lego set. This is a view of it in another moc Here is a better picture This is the back view. I like it. Side view!! Follow me for other cool mocs! i don't have an Ladd file but it's an easy build and you can guess how it works😉
  8. Hello Eurobrickers! I have a great announcement for you guys, especially those who are interested in Cavegod's UCS AT-AT. Over the past month or so, I have worked a countless number of hours in order to bring all of you guys something that this MOC deserved ever since its creation, a proper instruction manual. Yes, that's right, the famed issues of LDD will no longer be apart of this project thanks to this manual. Now I'm sure you're wondering, how big is a 6000+ piece manual? Well, to answer that question, the manual is a massive 1,089 pages. No that is not a typo, ONE THOUSAND AND EIGHTY NINE PAGES!!! In order to receive this manual, it is available for a price of $35 per copy. For information or to talk to me about purchasing a copy, please PM me or email me at chrdvorak@hotmail.com . If it is a common question and not one specific to you, please feel free to comment it here, and I will answer it, unless you want to PM or email me. A special thanks goes out to both Cavegod and drdavewatford. Cavegod designed a masterful MOC, one of the greatest ever, and drdavewatford was kind enough to allow me use of some of his photos throughout the manual. This could not be achieved without you guys! Enough of me talking, here are some images directly from the manual:
  9. Medical Corps by Veynom, on Flickr The Medical Corps is a military unit providing medical services too all army personnel, in war and peace. The Medical corps services were formed during the Clone Wars and incorporated to the Grand Army of the Republic. The decision to create such unit was taken by the Senate of the Republic as the war started to prolongate and to expand onto a growing number of planets through the Galaxy. A majority of senators acted that then that it would be less expensive and faster to attempt “fixing battle-damaged clones” than growing more. However, and still for budgetary reasons, the future Medical Corps would be granted only second-grade equipment: modified outdated ships and speeders, old droids and equipment… Still, the Medical Corps was voted in and assigned with the task of identifying, evacuating, healing clones wounded on the various battlefields before sending them back to active duty. With the rise of the Empire, the Medical Corps was simply renamed into Imperial Medical Corps. Equipment were barely upgraded on a strict necessity basis and the overall budget did not really increase. Classified documents from the Commission for the Preservation of the New Order (COMPNOR) later revealed that showing wounded troops and casualties had to be considered as negative propaganda that could only serve any rebellion movement. Therefore appearance, size, and image of the medical care activities should keep a low-visibility profile. Armor and Gear Medical Platoon by Veynom, on Flickr Medical Corps members were first clones and as such had standard clone armors retrieved from the Grand Army surplus. Only a specific medical marking pattern based on dark red was applied to distinguish them from regular combat units. Because of the budget restrictions, not all armors were similar across the unit. HowTo: Helmets are from Clone Army customs. All minifig torsos, arms, legs and accessories have custom decals (water transfer). 614-AvA Speeder Bike Medic-Variant 614-AvA Speeder Bike Medic-Variant by Veynom, on Flickr Several types of speeder bikes, including 614-AvA types, were used by the Medical Corps after an adequate painting job was performed to add the medical logo and standardize markings. Several container crates were also generously lent to the Medical Corps. Rumours from the field report that often, speeders, crates, and other equipment were simply recycled from various battlefields and repaired for active duty inside the Medical Corps HowTo: The speeder bike is a MOD from the 75090 set while the crate is a recolouring of the 75141 crate. The crate can be attached to the speeder. The medical logo is a custom decal (water transfer) Medivac Platoon in action by Veynom, on Flickr QH-6 LAVr Medilance QH-6 LAVr Medilance by Veynom, on Flickr The LAVr QH-6 chariot is a multi-functional speeder universally exploited by various ground forces as a light transport vehicle. The Medilance variant has been adapted to medical care and can carry one stretcher. QH-6 LAVr Medilance by Veynom, on Flickr HowTo: MOC with custom decals inspired by the old LL-924 design. The root can be opened to add or remove the pilot. Several accessories can be moved inside to simulate medical activities. The stretcher easily slide in and out. Medivac Speeders by Veynom, on Flickr Sheathipede-class Medivac Shuttle Sheathipede-class Medivac Shuttle by Veynom, on Flickr Several old separatist Sheathipede shuttles were retrofitted into medivac shuttles. These could carry up to two wounded troopers on stretchers, a droid (often a EG-6 Power droid to power medical devices), and the pilot. Medivac Sheathipede back by Veynom, on Flickr Medivac Sheathipede top by Veynom, on Flickr HowTo: MOD based on the 75170 Phantom set. 8 studs longer, with custom decals (water transfer), additional details and greeble, detailed interior and place for a custom power droid. Medical Corps by Veynom, on Flickr All vehicles have playable features (opening compartments, rotating devices…). They are all highly swooshable and quite sturdy. So, what is your favourite element of this Medical Corps ? · The custom medic minifigs · The Speeder bike · The Medilance speeder · The Sheatipede Medivac shuttle · Gonky, the power droid I’m now considering building a capital ship for the Medical Corps. Maybe a Pelta-class or something more exotic. Ideas welcome …. Size matters not. Comments, remarks and constructive criticisms are most welcome.
  10. Been playing with customizing a few minifigures lately. I know it's not a purist mod, but it's been fun to add a little extra to these. Here's the first completed, Jedi Master PLO Koon
  11. This is a MOC of the Y-Wing featured in the original trilogy. I tried to make all the components of the greebling as close to the studio model as possible, as well as getting the front of the bomber to look authentic. The grey component of the nacelles was based on 7658.
  12. You may have encountered it: you built a nice model in LDD, but it looks surreal because it lacks decorations on e.g. the minifigs. This tutorial is here to help you with that. In this little tutorial, I will try to explain how you can enhance the POV-Ray renders of your LDD models with custom decorations. You can design entirely new figures for example, or you can apply the decorations that aren’t available in LDD. My example in this tutorial will be a stormtrooper minifig. This figure lacks all decoration in LDD, and is commonly used in digital Star Wars builds. It gives me the opportunity to explain how to decorate surfaces that aren’t directly accessible in LDD, how to fit custom decals and explain the general principles. This method doesn’t involve any hacking and doesn’t require any sick programming skills (although the custom decorations might need your artistic talents…). And the best of all: all programs I use here are entirely free! I’ll be using Lego Digital Designer, LDD2POV-Ray, POV-Ray and Inkscape. So let’s get started! Decorate the target pieces in LDD LDD2POV-Ray, the program that will eventually place your custom decorations, can only replace already applied decorations. So firstly, you need to give the pieces you want to decorate a replacement decoration in LDD. Make sure to use different decorations for each surface, so that you later can keep track of which filler to replace with which substitute. Also, taking a screenshot for reference is not a bad idea to support your memory. But wait a minute… Some parts don’t allow for any decorations at all in LDD! Minifig torso’s are not a problem at all, but things like helmets are a whole different story. But luckily, there is an easy way to apply decorations that will work in most cases (no guarantees though!). You have to export your .lxf file to the LXFML format (File -> Export Model). This .lxfml file is actually a textual representation of your model. Among others, it contains a list with the placed parts, including their color(s) and decoration(s). To find your part, use the search function (Ctrl + F / Cmd + F) and type in: in which you replace 30408 (the designID of the storm trooper helmet in this example) with the designID of the part you desperately want to decorate. You can find this ID by clicking on the part in LDD and looking at the bottom left corner. If multiple of these parts are available, you can give the specific part a different color and check for the one that says materials=”26” in which you replace 26 with the number of the color you used (you can find this number by hovering over the color in the color menu in LDD). The key part is then to change the part that says decorations=”0,0,0” in which the amount of zeros dictates the amount of surfaces that you can decorate. If the line isn’t present at all, you’re out of luck and won’t be able to decorate your part. Otherwise, replace the zeros with valid decoration ID’s. It’s best to take decorations that are square and detailed (I will explain why later), so I suggest using the decorations of the 2x2 flat tiles. You can find these ID’s by placing some of these decorated tiles in your model, and check in the LXFML file what number is filled in in the decorations line of those parts. To make it easier for you, here are some handy decoration ID’s you can use: 73023, 63708, 99825, 55350, 63404, 601245 Then, save your file, and open it with LDD. You’ll see your parts are looking very ugly with those random decorations, but you’ll be happy to have decorations. You can copy these parts to a ‘normal’ .lxf file, and get rid of the parts you used to find the decoration numbers. Now we can move on to step 2! 2. Open your model with LDD2POV-Ray LDD2POV-Ray is a program that converts your LDD model into a file that can be rendered with POV-Ray, a ray tracer that simulates the behaviour of real light to simulate a realistic effect. You can set lighting etc, but more importantly, you can set your own decorations. To do this, go to the “Decorations” tab, and check the box “Use custom decorations”. A list will appear at the bottom, showing all the decorations you used. Clicking on them will reveal a thumbnail. Now you’ll be happy that you used different decorations to know which is which. You’ll notice that the decorations (unless they are square) are a bit stretched out. That’s because the program only accepts square decorations. So to load your own decorations, you’ll have to make sure they are square. Otherwise, they won’t cover the whole area you intended. If you already have your decorations (you found them on one of the indexes of the customisation forum here, for example), you can skip to step 4. Otherwise, I’ll give a brief account on how to make your own decorations in step 3. 3. Create your own decorations Personally, I make my decorations with Inkscape. It’s an easy to use vector based program. That means you can easily create very clean, smooth and crisp shapes. I’ll leave it to others to educate you in this nice software, but I’ll show you some general strategies to make accurate decorations. When working on complex curved shapes, like the storm trooper helmet, you won’t know for certain how your image will be mapped to the surface. That’s when the screenshot you took comes in handily. Because you have used decorations with a lot of detail (if you’ve been following properly!), you can easily see how the image is deformed and placed on the surface. You can identify the regions where you want your details to come, look to what part of the placed decoration it corresponds, see what it looks like in its flat state (you can see this in the thumbnail in LDD2POV-Ray), and place your detail in the according place. So in the example of the storm trooper helmet, you can see that the mouth should somewhere at the center of the graph. LDD2POV-Ray shows that that graph is a bit above the, so now you know you have to place the mouth around the center of your decal. When you’ve finished your decoration, you have to make sure your decoration is square. This will most certainly occur when you’re designing decorations for minifig torsos. If you leave it in its actual proportions and plug it in LDD2POV-Ray, you’ll see that the image doesn’t fill the whole area, compared to the stretched out decoration you have to replace. So you resize your decoration. In Inkscape, simply go to the top, where you can enter dimensions. Then you go to File -> Export Bitmap and a dialogue box will pop up. Make sure to select ‘from selection’, and that the amount of pixels of your image is high enough. Otherwise it will look pixelated in the render. Finally, chose .png as file format, and remove the background color of your decoration. Because it might look like the right color in Inkscape, but in your render it will look like the decal has a different color than the body, which isn’t what you wanted. So now you have your parts temporarily decorated, and you got your custom decorations ready. So time to replace them and render them. 4. Render your decorated model Firstly, you have to load your new decorations in LDD2POV-Ray. There are multiple ways to do this, but the easiest method is to select the decoration you want to replace and then click on the empty canvas. A window will pop up to allow you to select your decoration. Just select it. Repeat for the other decorations, making sure you replace the right decoration with the right replacement (that screenshot will come in handy now, especially since you can’t have both LDD and LDD2POV-Ray open at the same time at this moment!). Then you can fiddle around with different settings like lighting etc. For test renders I suggest to place in the first tab the slider on the lowest positions: ‘LDD geometry’. This will result in slightly less good, but much faster renders, allowing you to quickly get feedback about your decorations, so that you can adjust placement and proportions. For flat parts this won’t be necessary, but it can help for curved parts. That’s why I included the TIE pilot in the render. You can see the ensignas are slightly deformed. That’s not my intention, but I already predeformed the circles in the decal, so that it looks more or less round on the surface. You’ll have to experiment a lot with these ones. Anyway, when you're satisfied and feel the need for a more glamorous render, you can turn 'render with visible bevels' on in the slider bar, and wait for some time. You'll get something like this. Hopefully now you know all about rendering your custom minifigs, making your models more realistic. I hope to see some around! Anyway: happy rendering of your minifigs! If anyone is interested in downloading the decorations I designed for the stormtrooper (for now without back printing) and the TIE pilot (torso printing already present in LDD), have a look at this page. Hope you've found this useful.
  13. Well, I for one supported it at Kickstarter without hesitation. You can support it too: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fxbricks/pfx-brick
  14. Hello there! I already opened two threads in here about decals, but with the evergrowing amount of designs that I do for Star Wars and a few other franchises, I thought it would be wiser to make a thread where I can show all of my work in a single place. Maybe a few of you find some of my designs useful? I try to make mostly original design, but sometimes, I do imitate the officially released minifigs. Also, some decals are specific requests that I got, like adapting characters to different styles or make specific changes to certain designs. I hope you enjoy them! Lando Calrissian – Cloud City Lando Calrissian – The Force Awakens Era (based on a Lego Star Wars animated series) Captain Antilles – Tantive IV Galen Erso – Lah'mu Farmer Outfit Grand Admiral Thrawn – Fixed Rank Insignia Nien Nunb Ahsoka Tano – De-Cloneified Padawan Look You can also view my collection of selfmade decals on my decal site. As I mentioned, I also do requests as long as I like them and feel like accepting their challenge, so don't be shy to ask if you need anything Star Wars related! Since I do post my finished designs on my website, I may not update this opening post with new designs; however, I will post it in here when I finish a new decal, so make sure to check the end of the thread and/or my blog website if you wanna be up to date. Currently, I have four additional decals in the works: TCW Admiral Yularen, TFA Luke Skywalker, Cassian Andor und Poe Dameron With Jacket.
  15. Warning: This thread might cause discomfort with your current dragon situation. Viewer discretion is advised. The Dragonification of Smaug the Wyvern Ever since the discussion whether Smaug was a wyvern or a dragon came up, I felt the need to give arms to the ultimate LEGO creature. According to some, dragons without arms are merely wyverns and therefore sad creatures. Would I dare to lay hands (pun intended) on such a marvellous creature? Would I dare drilling holes in it? Modified Smaug side by MWardancer, auf Flickr Modified Smaug total by MWardancer, auf Flickr Modified Smaug - The Last Thing You Ever Shall See by MWardancer, auf Flickr Modified Smaug showing his new claws by MWardancer, auf Flickr Modified Smaug from above by MWardancer, auf Flickr Customization notes: Buying two dark red arms is cheap and easy, so I decided to use techniques which would mess up the arms and not Smaug's body if things go wrong. When customizing a minifigure, you have to throw away parts sometimes because you destroyed them with paint, glue or drills. You cannot do that with an expensive dragon torso. Unlike the green fantasy dragon or similar molds, Smaug's front is much slimmer and curved. There is no flat straight surface where you could simply attach dragon arms. They would have big gaps and wrong angles. So I needed to carve and sand the arms to fit a threedimensional plain. This was easier than I thought. Also at this point there is no risk damaging the body yet. Then I drilled the holes to attach the arms. This fortunately worked well. Attaching the arms afterwards took over an hour because the pins I attached would not stick. The arms cannot move. It is impossible to achieve that because of the uneven shape of the torso.
  16. BREAKING NEWS! LEGO TO GO INTO THE REAL ESTATE MARKET The AFOL Brick House by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr The world-famous Danish Company known for its toys and highly sophisticated interlockable brick systems took the plunge into the real estate market with a new type of prefabricated house targeted to AFOLs (acronym for ‘adult fan of LEGO’). The standard model in red, is three-storey connected by elegant stairs, features wooden floors, large windows across the whole rear of the house, a amazing Wurlitzer Jukebox, and even a glass display sitting in between the ground and 1st floor hosting a UCS Millenium Falcon in it (included in the price). The AFOL Brick House by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr Now on the layout of the various floors: The AFOL Brick House by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr Ground floor will have a Brick Room, where you can sort your bricks, a work bench with a brick separator, a personal computer and some cupboards to store your parts. The AFOL Brick House by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr First floor will have a lovely living room with crystal displays, to showcase your favourite sets and custom creations to AFOL friends while listening music playing in the Jukebox. The AFOL Brick House by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr Second floor will have a big table to host a city diorama (included in each house, but you can customize to your liking) and practise before taking your stuff to events. A manhole will also lead you to the attic to blow the cobwebs away and, who knows, sport a new IDEAS creation! This whole house will be just 1590 pieces including furniture! The AFOL Brick House by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr You may ask yourselves: ‘No bathroom? A bed? Kitchen?’ Nothing to worry about, a hardcore AFOL doesn’t need any of these and even so there will be some other modular building next to this one where you would seek help. As we said, the model will be of 1590 pieces. Just because you can’t split it like conventional modular buildings, it will have hinges to open the rear all in one piece. The AFOL Brick House by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr All floor can be pulled out to ease playability and to make changes to the layout. This innovative modular building fits to any other existing LEGO products, and gives a touch of color to your city theme. The AFOL Brick House by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr Just try now to visualize it the real word, or your city. Would it be awesome, don’t you think? How colourful any city would be, or more beautiful? I would personally buy it, if only LEGO would produce it. Who ever dream of a place where you could express your passion for bricks to the best? For now, it’s only possible to vote for this project, who knows where the future leads.. My first proposition of the model is red, a real classic color for LEGO. The AFOL Brick House by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr On a unrelated side note, the story behind my nickname. ‘VedoSoloLEGO’ means ‘I see only LEGOs’ in Italian, my native language. Reason behind that is anything i look at I try to picture it in brick shape. I hope you enjoy it. Technical notes: The model has been created with Mecabriks and rendered via Blender. Special thanks to gabriele.zannotti for the wonderful pictures and support; without his help, it wouldnt even be possible to show you this project with thee lovely hires pics. If you would like to keep in touch with the project you can subscribe to my Ideas profile, including my other projects, or on Flickr, Facebook, Twitter, Mocpages, by looking for my username ‘VedoSoloLEGO’. If you like this project, please share and vote here https://ideas.lego.com/projects/154372 Your help is much appreciated. Thanks!
  17. This is my own custom supercar made from spare legos Please leave any comments, feedback, or suggestions for this car I will be happy to answer any and all comments on this build Thanks as always StangMan302
  18. Hi, was looking for some input and thoughts on this topic. Is there any particular reason that custom minifigure prices are all over the place, even for ones equal in quality. Granted, some of the digitally printed ones do not have the best print, but I have seen good quality digital prints going from anywhere between $25 and $60, same really for pad printed figures. Just curious what determines the prices really as a lot of people seem to buy them regardless, but there seems to be such a gap even when they are equal in quality.
  19. I originally started trying to create a desert version of the Rebel Airspeeder. Instead I ended up inventing a space variant instead. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I figure in this version the rear gun is an ion cannon, and these small, fighters use their speed to dodge enemy fire and disable important targets, giving regular starfighters like X-Wings an opening to quickly dispatch the target. It'd be for situations where Y-Wings are too slow, but would only be effective against larger targets if executed quickly. I don't know why there'd be a space version of an airspeeder, but I had fun.
  20. So I've been working on a custom Savitar based on the design in "the Flash". I would like to know if anyone has any suggestions, particularly regarding the head.
  21. Here is a completely purist lego Overwatch minifig collection. Hope you recognize them or I 've failed :D
  22. Hi all, I have a selection of custom minifigures which I am looking to sell. None of these are Chinese bootlegs, they are all professionally printed (either digitally, UV or pad) and highly collectible. Onlinesailin / OLS (Digitially Printed) Green Arrow SDCC Replica - £23.00 Sam Wilson Captain America SDCC Replica - £23.00 Black Suit Superman SDCC Replica - £22.00 Bizarro - £20.00 LyileBricks (UV Printed) Steve Rogers Captain America - £16.00 KO Customs (Pad Printed) Deathlok - £27.00 One81 (Pad Printed) Red Son Superman - £28.00 Poppunkmunky (Digitally Printed - Head only, body is Lego) Symbiote Spider-Man SDCC Replica - £10.00 Postage varies (roughly between £9 and £15 depending on where, but I will check at the time) but will post worldwide tracked/signed for. Any questions please ask! Thank you for viewing :) Pics below:
  23. LEGO A Series Of Unfortunate Events Hi, am not sure if this is the correct forum, but i would like to share with you my custom minifigs designs of "A Series Of Unfortunate Events", These are my first Lego designs or decals, so feedback is accepted. I will release the decals in the future. I plan on creating more characters as well as a playset when i have more time. Let me know what do you think of them! :)
  24. Hey peeps. So today I bought a custom clone wars trooper which the seller added many new things too: Weapons, Gear, Capes. And he also painted and colored some of those things including the helmet. I bought one to see how to do it myself (NOT TO SELL) and pimp my troopers and jedis and also cause i wanted to support him. This all looks very nice and certainly adds a fresh look to the clones and other figures he does. I will add a picture. Custom 1 by Vincent ST, auf Flickr Custom 2 by Vincent ST, auf Flickr Now my question is if anyone knows what type of paint is good for painting legos as I want to experiment on not so important sets and replace the stickers with actual pain, I think this would look more authentic. I would follow the tattoo formula. Drawing it on first with removable paint and then trace it. Id love to hear what you guys think.
  25. Hello people, as i have seen some topics made by some members were they share their creations, modifications and ideas, i thought it was a good idea to start my own topic about that, this way i can avoid filling other topics with too many information by saving all that information here and just posting small texts in those other topics. To start, i would like to share some creations which i worked on: Model Team Nissan Frontier. This is one of my oldest models, i made it even before i knew about Eurobricks, and i would like to share it with you because you might like it or modified it: This model features front independent suspension, rear leaf spring suspension using 5.5 axles, HOG steering, working doors, bonnet and tailgate, 5 seats and a towing hitch; its very possible that some parts are with wrong colors or there could be outdated building techniques, but i think that is not too bad for one of my first LDD models (i am no sure, but if i have enough time and inspiration i could make it in real Technic parts), The LXF: http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/nissan-frontier/Nissan Frontier.lxf. Model Team Paramount Group Marauder MRAP. Again, one of my oldest models, it is made at a pretty small scale but it could still be considered as "model team" (i think), it has pendular suspension in both axles which are damped by cross-axles which act as leaf springs, it has HOG steering, working winch and doors, a spare tire and 2 turrets that can be mounted on the roof: The LXF: http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/paramount-marauder/Paramount Group Marauder.lxf Technic Unimog U500 Long Chassis (I have called it UNI-MOC) You might have seen it in the latest posts at 8110´s Mods topic ( http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/topic/57543-8110-unimog-mods-and-improvements/&page=78 ), it is a 64 studs long and 24 studs wide model which i started to make because the modifications in the 8110 got to a too high level and i wasn´t satisfied with the whole model, i created this new model to hold all of my wanted functions and details, this model has some designs from other builders: Madoca´s Tatra 2-speeds gearbox (slightly modified to fit in this new chassis), Efferman´s planetary rims, a modified version of Didumos knob gear driven axle and a 3-side dumping system and dropping sides inspired by Kumbbl´s modifications, it was also made by some help and inspiration by Pat-Ard: This Unimog has 4 M-Motors, 2 L-Motors, 2 XL-Motors, 3 IR RC Receivers, 2 AAA Battery Boxes and 3 PF Switches (brick-built with ugly colors), why so many motors? well, as you might know, the 8110 had only one M-Motor inside it, which was meant to drive the 3 main functions of the set (front PTO, rear PTO and the pneumatic pump) the problem was that the functions couldn't be used simultaneously, you couldn't power front and rear PTO´s at the same time or with the pneumatic pump and because this system uses a gearbox and axles to engage and transmit the power to the different parts, this results in a lot of friction and power losing (other of the reasons of why i started this MOC), other thing that bother me about the 8110 was the proportions of it, it was very tall with lifted wide axles, but very thin cab and bed which made it look silly, the chassis had no space for all the functions that i wanted, i couldn't place enough motors or functions on it, and the axles were another problem, the steering pivot and angle was a disappointing, the tires couldn't steer too much with the half pins, and if you removed them, the mudguards and the surrounding elements needed to be placed far away from the tires to avoid them from colliding, these are few of the reasons of why i started to make my own version of this UGN class of Unimog (which are U300, U400 and U500). Some of the good features of this model are: Improved steering pivot (2 studs closer to the wheels compared to standard portal hubs) Wheels and portal hubs can handle more torque without jamming parts The axles are more compact (less tall), so the chassis can move even lower for a more realistic performance Front steering by L-Motor Rear steering (By M-Motor) with the same axle design as the front one Anti-roll bars in both axles, which help a lot to handle with weight and give a lot of stability, and they can be easily removed for serious offroading Remotely shifted 2-speeds gearbox by M-Motor Directly driven pneumatic pump (L-Motor) and PTO´s (M-Motors) for less power losing 3-side tipping 37 studs long 23 studs wide dump bed with dropping sides using a V2 large pneumatic cylinder Drive by 2 XL-Motors So, these are some of my models, i hope you like them, and i hope to upload more of them, i will try to do my best with all them, let me know what you think about this topic and the models, and any suggestion is well received Thanks.