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Found 241 results

  1. Not sure which to build: 42043 crawler edition or the "boom" supersonic jet from virgin airlines. Reply with a choice if you can and thanks for the help in advance 😃 BrickByBrick
  2. Lego has a contest to create your own Futuristic LEGO Technic BMW motorcycle. Deadline is May 4th. https://www.lego.com/en-us/rebrick/contest-page/contests/technic-bmw
  3. Hi, I set this up because I have noticed that most of the builders on here are much better than me. I see many things that I definitely have the parts to do, but I don't have the brains for it. Example: McPherson suspension, locking doors, brakes, etc. Does anyone have any good advice from building experience? Anything is useful.
  4. Simple Lego Pullback Car - This Lego Technic creation is the smallest, simplest pullback car I could design without sacrificing stability. It features a minimalistic design. The pullback racer is so stable that it supported my onboard GoPro (yes, I finally purchased one) To anyone interested, I used RenderForest to create my new intro: https://www.renderforest.com/signup?afil_link=5ed9f2b19acd2581437c1d2cb1ee5473
  5. Lego compact gearbox - a super simple and compact mechanism! I originally built this lego technic gearbox for a robotic door lock. You can build this simple lego gearbox through the link below. Features a 1:8 gear ratio reduction using a worm gear. LDD / INSTRUCTIONS — https://www.dropbox.com/s/86hgsg48vijh2b7/Mechanism.lxf?dl=0 Inspired by a gearbox in Sariel's Unofficial LEGO Technic Builder's Guide: https://www.amazon.com/Unofficial-LEGO-Technic-Builders-Guide/dp/1593274343
  6. Hello good people of Eurobricks, The other day I built up the set 8051 motorbike applying some minor modification like different color scheme and some change on bodywork to make it look like more like a stuntbike. These changes did not alter the basic geometry and size. (apart from the rear fork what is one stud shorter.) Despite the fact that I caught the stuntbike feeling quite well (for my taste at least) I couldn't get along with the end product. I figured the wheels were slightly bigger (in diameter) than they supposed to be. So I grabbed my tape measure, digged up some pics on google of real bikes and came to the conclusion that these wheels are about 10 percent out of scale compare to the real proportion. The lack of width made the impression even worse to me. Trying to solve the problem I begun to play around with the old type bike wheels. I found their diameter is just the desired size but these were ridiculously narrow for the job. Searching in the forum here I've seen some builders used two of these rims with this tyre from the set 8448 Street sensation. The flat profile didn't make me happy though. Finally I worked out something using two rims and two tyres of the old type. The result has the right diameter, width, and rounded profile as it should be. (video at the end of the post) Here is a picture to illustrate the proportion problems: Upper left: Original 8051 Upper right: A random naked bike Lower left: my "pimped" 8051 with smaller wheels Lower right: The original wheels of 8051 built into a frame with realistic proportion As I said above the difference isn't huge, but it is there. Here is a few more pic to highlight the point I'm trying to make: I wonder if you guys share my opinion on this subject... Few more pics of these bikes: I know the front tyre sholdn't be this wide, but still better than a single (IMHO) Please note that this "connector bike" is still under development. It is meant to represent the size of bike I found appropriate to the wheel size. On the rear wheel I'm using the rear tyre of 8420 Street Bike. It fits perfectly on the new rim. Also I made a tutorial video, how to make that wide tyre modification: (Purist may find it disturbing . I can ensure you no harm done to any parts. Luckily those old tyres are so soft they can take any abuse.) Hope you can find some usefull in the post. Happy sunday.
  7. Hello All, I initially posted very preliminary photos of my WIP for the U-Wing on this thread here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/145021-wip-ucs-u-wing-rebel-transport/ not wanting to make a new thread until I had done some real work on the project and was actually close to having it done. Well, that time has come. Still a WIP, but I have much of the build done. Wanted to share here to (1) demonstrate a little about the build, and things that I wanted to accomplish, and (2) get opinions on things that are still left to do. The pics are not high quality…. Again, the purpose of this was just to present the project…. Still in progress and pics are definitely preliminary. First of all, goals of the build are fairly simple: - This is primarily a Technic build. Although I struggled to know where to post this WIP, here or the Technic forum, I chose here because ultimately I think it applied more here and I need more opinions regarding looks, authenticity, etc., rather than the technical aspects of the build. So, please keep this in mind when having a look. Many angles, etc. could have been done better with system bricks, but that was not the objective. Although admittedly not trying to place my WIP in the same camp as Drakmin’s snowspeeder or WIP X-Wing; that is the look that I am kinda going for. - BBeing Technic there has to be some technical aspects to the build. Most importantly, mechanized retracting wings. There have been some great MODs and even MOCs so far of the U-Wing, but to my knowledge all have manual moving wings, but in the purest sense, like, you really have to move them by hand (manus in Latin). My goal is to have retractable wings, manualized, but not by hand. Technic-style – gears and all. This part of the build is done. It works great – video to come once the whole project is done. The cargo door also opens, manually, but is not mechanized. TThe mechanism to move the wings was easy enough, worm gear to 8T gear to series of 12t gears that move 8t gears that meshes with 40t gears built into the wings. Using the worm gear was important, given that no motor (to lock gears moving backwards) was used. I needed something that moved only one direction. Worm gear produces this in that they only drive gears, and are not driven by them. This allows me to really tighten the wings close to the body of the ship when in their forward and backwards positions so that they would stay there; without the use of a pin, or a knob, or anything to lock them in place. The official set and other MODs or MOCs use pins or some connectors to secure the wings. But not this MOC - that was the goal. - Getting the wings to move was actually the easy part, the hard part was getting them to move into the correct forward position. Because I am working with Lego, there are no ways around its limitations, meaning, the limitations of ABS. The wings are long, and get quite heavy (for Lego) and gravity does pull them down. Slightly, very slightly, but it is enough to make them going into the forward position difficult. There is no bending in the actual wing, but only at the junction of liftarms to the 40t gear. The bending is very little, still, when the wings are moved in the forward position there needed to be some slight slope at the bottom of the fuselage that gradually helped them move to the correct position. Therefore the fuselage may be a little oddly shaped, but only because of this reason. The slope was achieved by using Technic panels As can be seen in the picture above, the wings fit snugly in the their forwards position. - System bricks are used on the engines, the cockpit, and the greeblies in the back of the ship . Other than that, mostly Technic bricks are used. There characteristic grills at the back cover the knob that controls the wings. Things still to do are: - Determine the size and shape of wing - Color of cockpit canopy - Engines - Modify the upper-level of ship (I will explain this below) Lets start with the first one: Admittedly, the wings are a little wide. I did this on purpose to test the rigidity of the wing. As I mentioned before, rigidity of the wing was paramount as I wanted to mechanize their movement into forwards/backwards position and gravity pulling the wings down was initially a problem. But now that the mechanism works well, and I examine the wings further….. I kinda like them a little wider. What do others think? I know it takes away from some of the fidelity of the build… but I like them a little wider. To be honest, absolute fidelity to a build has never been a number one priority to me – for the following reason. Number one – do an internet search on U wings, and you will find there is no “pure” rendition. Actually, many different variations exist. Colors differ, wing length differs, etc. Number two - Although Sci-Fri; if we were to try and relate to some of the ships in SW to the greatest extent possible I am sure they would be built and produced much like the machines of today. Namely, you have a first, primary model but then several, sometimes dozens, of variations around that primary model. Take the aircraft of today; you have a first model but then so many decedents. I am currently on a trip and flew on an Airbus 319 to get there. Out of curiosity, I looked it up. There are over 20 variations. Almost like the living, breathing aspects of human life. To me that makes things more real. My model could be named like UT-60 WB (wide body) U-Wing Star fighter or something. But…. I do think making the wings more slender is possible…. But I want other’s thoughts before I jump right in. Second thing to still do – in the pics you see the canopy being LBG in color. As explained above, I don’t see a problem being a little different than the original model (which is all white)…. And I definitely like the LBG color. Thoughts? It can be done in white, replacing the toggle connectors at the top of the front of the canopy with Technic Angled Connector #3. They are about the same angle and come in white. Also, about coloring other aspects of the ship. Because wing integrity is of utmost importance, I will not add blue markings on the outer edge of the wings, like are in most of the pics of the model. While this is possible to do, even with Technic, it will compromise the strength of the wings because of their altered orientation than the other liftarms in the wings. Likely, I will also not be adding yellow smatterings here and there like on the real ship. Third thing to finish – here are the engines. Not completed. Just a concept. Actually, the while part of the engine will be beveled with these parts here: BL order is placed. I need many white plates and the cornered, sloped bricks seen above to do this. I should have the engines completed in the next week when the order arrives. Fourth thing to do: The most significant part of the build I still need to do, and that is, somehow find a way to modify the upper-level of the ship so that there are not 3 studs above the wings. I am not liking how it is now. The fuselage has to be at lease 5 studs high. The wings are 3 studs thick... because of the gears. And there has to be a layer at the top and bottom (thus 5 studs) to secure the 8t gears. Because I don't want to leave the top of the ship looking like the very first picture I posted, another layer needs to be added, which I like with the panels, etc. as in the second picture added. However, it is too high. Three layers of bricks above the wings is too much. But, I think it will be easy to replace the top layer with the panels as in the second picture. The trick will be to replace the layer with the panels without compromising the rigidity of the fuselage. More to come on this..... and I think this will be the most significant last obstacle to overcome. Once this is done, I think all the rest will be easy. Have a look see… still WIP and comments are very much appreciated and welcome!
  8. Hi, I am seeing more and more locking differentials on MOCs, but I do not see how they are useful. Does anyone know why?
  9. Hi Everyone, I would like to share my WIP MOC which I am currently working on. It is inspired by the V8 sedan Lexus GSF. Oh, and this is my first ever MOC project. It will have: - front mounted fake v8 engine with rear wheel drive. - manual transmission with H pattern shifter - separate modules, it can be easily put together / taken apart back to individual modules, mainly because I like to tinker with them. For example if the suspension is not working, I can modify the front axle / rear axle and hopefully it will still fit in with the rest of the build Things still undecided: - PF / Remote or fully manual - how to build the body >> this is where all the other threads are great for inspiration! The modules I have done so far in LDD are front axle, back axle, fake v8 engine, transmission/gear box, and frame. There will be more modules for dashboard + steering wheel, and body. Here is the LDD screen shot of all the modules together. Screenshots of the Individual modules are in flickr. step 6: put all components together by Andy Tanuwidjaja, on Flickr I spent a lot of times on the gear box, it is scratch build because I want it to as flat as possible as it will sit underneath the seats. Then, I move on to real bricks (this is where the fun begins), and so far I have front axle, v8 engine and gear box. There was a lot of modifications which I did on the fly as there are issues with the LDD design, like the gears won't connect properly or there wasn't enough bracing. P1190753 by Andy Tanuwidjaja, on Flickr P1190761 by Andy Tanuwidjaja, on Flickr P1190763 by Andy Tanuwidjaja, on Flickr Currently I am working on the frame: P1190767 by Andy Tanuwidjaja, on Flickr There are some more photos on Flickr, I didn't want to make this post too long. Questions/comments/inputs are greatly appreciated.
  10. I'm building a SUV drivetrain for my Lexus GX EV3 project that has independent suspension, four-wheel-drive, and a four-speed gearbox with a medium EV3 motor that shifts the gears. Unfortunately, after testing the drivetrain, I found that when in 3rd or 4th gear, the gears make a clicking noise when moving forward and then straight to backward. However, this clicking somewhat occurs less when going from reverse to forward. This clicking really "grinds my gears" and I don't know what to do to stop the gears from clicking. My gearbox is a custom version of Sariel's four-speed sequential that is fit for the vehicle I am building. The input in the transmission is switched to provide more speed. Two large EV3 motors drive the input. I've noticed that when the vehicle stops, it goes the opposite direction for a little bit. Also, like I already said, this clicking only happens in 3rd or 4th gear, but mostly the 4th gear since it brings the most speed. I tried to solve this clicking with different gears and whatnot, but no matter what they still clicked when the vehicle moved forward to backward. The motors and the gearing also bring a lot of torque as much as it brings speed, and this might be one of the problems. Is there any way I can solve this issue so the gear clicking will stop in this situation (moving foward and then straight to backward) for now on? Here's a photo of the bottom of the drivetrain. Thank you in advance for any assistance that you may be able to provide!
  11. Hi I am boston... and I run the boston's brick closet youtube channel (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMhdfDhev31jBJe8u9eFx7A) and the website (http://bostonsbrickcloset.blogspot.com/)
  12. Review: 42064 Ocean Explorer Name: Ocean Explorer Number: 42064 Theme: Technic Year: 2017 Pieces: 1327 Price: Euro 89.99€, AUD $169.99 Brickset: Extra Info Technic Early 2017 Review Series Welcome to the ninth in my batch of 2017 Technic reviews! I was offered all the small early 2017 sets for review late last year... but I ended up getting the bigger ones too! Thus I have a lot to review. I've been doing them in parallel and changing my process as I go so hopefully the latter ones will end up being the best. On that angle I'll probably retcon some of the earlier reviews if I improve my process. Due to this remember that I'm happy to take extra photos or provide extra info on request, and anything especially good will be added to the main body of the review. Do note though that sometimes the model may no longer exist if I have have made an alternate. On the subject of alternates, I will be making the alt model, if I have the instructions, think the model is worth making, and I have the time. Also I'll show mid stage construction only if I think it's relevant. Thus don't ask for construction photos or alt models if they aren't part of the review.... I am prepared to extract parts for detail photos though. Photos will all be hosted on Flickr so larger versions are available, and relevant videos will be on YouTube and linked to from here. I don't edit photos much; very rarely I'll crop one and almost never will "correct" them so the photos should be as natural as possible. I will try to not be repetitive; thus it's worth reading my other reviews. For example I'm not going to complain too much about the digital instructions; I'll try to complain about new things, or maybe not complain at all! Here's all the other reviews of H1 2017 Technic... 42057 Ultralight Helicopter 42058 Stunt Bike 42059 Stunt Truck (and 45058/42059 Combiner) 42060 Roadwork Crew 42061 Telehandler 42062 Container Yard 42063 BMW R 1200 GS Adventure 42064 Ocean Explorer 42065 Tracked Racer Mucho multi thanks to the EB LUG Ambassador CopMike and the LEGO CEE Team and Designers for allowing me to review these sets for Eurobricks. So onto the review! Packaging Front.... ...back. I don't plan to do the alternate. Mostly due to time, but also as I wasn't too inspired by this model. Here's the top. The scale pic is an interesting choice as it's the first time I know of in a Technic set where the picture has no visible Technic. (There's an axle inside.) Unboxing Standard punch box. Instructions were bagged, and the set is segmented. There's only the main instruction, with the cover being better stock than the main. We're into the big boys now! Parts list page 1.... ...and page 2. Semi random instruction page. Build One bags open! From these you make the accessory vehicles. First up is the little chopper. This has functioning main and tail rotors spun by a gear at the bottom and uses the new double cross-connector piece for the rotor shaft which helps make this remarkable small creation. <RETCON> No! not that piece, this piece! </RETCON> Also is the submersible. It has geared rotating props (not counter rotating though) and worm gear driven claws. These are the spares for the One bags. The rope surprised me. This is all of the Two bags... ...actually it not. I was part though assembling when I realised I was missing parts. Rechecked and found another bag.... ...and by the end we had this! There's a few features that become hard to see later so I'll highlight them now. First off there's the odd part here, the "5" print. It's actually stupidly common part so it's not special in itself, but it's a ship building tradition to do this. Keep this in mind for later! Here you can see the where the crane control shafts are geared up. The red gear is there simply because it's easier alignment than a 3 axle. Two Bag spare parts. I think this is the first time there's been a metallic one of these 1 high pin parts, but I suspect you'll be seeing them a lot more. Cosmetically the 2 long version was ruined (IMHO) by the slits and this solves the problem... Three bags! (Yes, I'm sure this time.) That finishes the model.... but the superstructure.... it's so... white... ...but before I rant about that here's the complete spare parts. (I forgot to take this photo; I'll take a better one in a few days.) While it's not featureless, the lack of colour make it look pretty close to it. Fear not! We have a vast sticker sheet! This adds loads of detail to the bridge mostly. Plus the chopper. (Nothing for the sub.) The ship gets a load line, which while arguably silly is educational (more on that later) and it tells the builder the intended waterline. The life boats are not improved much by the stickers though. But that's enough on stickers. For the sticker fans there's more photos in my Flickr page. The gear near the life boats controls the rudder. Here's the rudders and at full deflection. The mechanism is very similar to the steering in the 42062 Container Stacker set. It's more snappy than smooth. The steering circle is large, but that's arguably accurate. To the front is a set of three wheels to take the weight. The anniversary part is used to lock in the sub. Here's a video showing the functions. I've started mumbling in the videos which is useful if you can decipher it. Sorry if you can't. Most of my points I should re-iterate on in a bit. Size wise here's it on the largest LEGO hull; it's about the same size! (Stickers are old and self-disintegrating.) Didn't test if it'll float like this yet.... Ratings: Function: For a model of this size the functions are minimal. None are particularly impressive either. Showing the props would have helped, but arguably you can't see them in this quasi-waterline model. 3/10 Parts: Excellent really. Mostly structural, but there's still enough mechanical parts too. Oddly there's also some rare-ish System parts too. 10/10 Price: Considering parts only, it's probably the best value set of this wave. 10/10 Accuracy: The small models are very accurate considering the sizes. The chopper is probably too big for that kind of canopy though, but that's just being picky. 8/10 Fudge: This set does raise the question of what makes a Technic set Technic, and I think this one is a bridge too far. It's a shame too as some might recall that I have a thing for water based Technic, partially as there has been so little. But this is not what I had in mind. The focus is weird, even with the choice of using System as the scale display on the box. It's clearly form over function; the coin that is not easily seen in the final model, the fact that the helo-deck has cosmetic structure, the use of system to achieve what does not need to be achieved, such as hand rails and a mast, even the sticker load line. But the vision is inconsistent; the life rafts are an area where some system was needed, yet stickers were all that were offered, the bridge uses stickers to achieve windows when System would have done it better. When I first saw this set I was really looking forward to it, but now it just looks like spare parts. 0/10 Overall: My negativity aside, this is an excellent set for builders. Displayers... well it depends on if you like your Technic to be Technic. It does look pretty good, arguably better than the last ship. But to me it's in the group of "is the really Technic"? 6/10
  13. The plane is a C model of 42025. The simulator stand is not. The plane is 60x63 cm and has working flight surfaces and a 2-function distribution gearbox.
  14. I began to work on my 1st Technic moc yesterday to see what I could come up with. Here's my progress. I'm quite pleased with where I'm at and what I could accomplish, even if it is basic by many Technic builder standards. It drives nice on carpet, though I'd love to have those rubber dots to make it work on hard surfaces. 20170318_121559 by topazard, on Flickr 20170318_121636 by topazard, on Flickr 20170318_121659 by topazard, on Flickr Trying to figure out how to add a function will have to wait until next weekend (hopefully). By then I might have the parts to finish off the marbled top. For anyone wondering this is supposed to be a Grangemouth 3001.
  15. I was always inspired by the multi-functionality of backhoe's, and I always imagined ways to improve upon it and now I finally did. In this MOC I challenged myself to make the most multi-functional vehicle I could, using all the motors and sbricks I had, naturally I ended up buying more motors XD The final build includes 17 LEGO power functions motors (5XL motors, 6L motors and 6M motors), 4 LEGO power functions lights and 1 DIY LEGO laser! It's powered by 4 LEGO PF battery boxes, controlled by 5 SBricks and operated by a 20 channel SBrick profile. The drill/laser arm is operated by 5 channels 1 channel for rotating the arm (PF XL motor) 1 channel for tilting the arm out (PF L motor) 1 channel for extending the forearm (PF M motor) 1 channel for spinning the drill head (PF M motor) 1 channel for activating the DIY LEGO laser (TOPIC HERE) The excavator arm is operated by 4 channels 1 channel for rotating the arm (PF XL motor) 1 channel for tilting the arm out (PF L motor) 1 channel for extending the forearm (PF M motor) 1 channel for moving the bucket (PF M motor) the bulldozer scoop is operated by 2 chanels 1 channel for raising and lowering the scoop (PF M motor) 1 channel for tilting the scoop (PF M motor) The crane is operated by 3 channels 1 channel for rotating (PF M motor) 1 channel for extending the crane (PF L motor) 1 channel for operating the winch (PF L motor) The plow/ trailer hook is operated by 1 channel 1 channel for lowering and raising the plow (PF M motor) The drivetrain is operated by 3 channels 2 channel for driving forwards and backwards (2x PF XL motor) 1 channel for steering (PF XL motor) The lighting is operated by 2 channels 1 channel for headlights 1 channel for rearlights Weight: 4.6KG Length: 62cm With: 32cm Height: 31cm building time: 4 weeks A special thanks goes out to my friend Bas for helping me edit and my amazing girlfriend for her everlasting support.
  16. An extremely functional 42043 c model which also looks pretty nice! (Pics under the video) Pics: The functions include: -Suspension -HOG steering -drill elevation and tilting -lower/raise counterweight -outriggers and secondary outriggers -piston engine -opening bonnet -spinning drill To see them working check the video above! Thanks! BrickbyBrick
  17. This is my half building moc from the series "Gundam Iron Blooded Orphans" (機動戦士ガンダム 鉄血のオルフェンズ Kidō Senshi Gandamu Tekketsu no Orufenzu?) Name : Gundam Barbatos Lupus Rex (Updated version of Gundam Barbatos) / ASW-G-08 Pilot : Mikazuki August from Tekkadan LEGO Gundam Barbatos Lupus Rex ASW-G-08 *just for fun by demon demon demon, trên Flickr LEGO Gundam Barbatos Lupus Rex ASW-G-08 *just for fun by demon demon demon, trên Flickr LEGO Gundam Barbatos Lupus Rex ASW-G-08 *just for fun by demon demon demon, trên Flickr Name : Gundam Bael / ASW-G-01 Pilot : McGillis Fareed, Agnika Kaieru LEGO Gundam Bael ASW-G-01 *just for fun by demon demon demon, trên Flickr LEGO Gundam Bael ASW-G-01 *just for fun by demon demon demon, trên Flickr ...and my previous MOC , Justice Gundam : http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/144681-moc-justice-gundam-zgmf-x09a/
  18. Review: 42062 Container Yard Name: Container Yard Number: 42062 Theme: Technic Year: 2017 Pieces: 631 Price: Euro 49.99€, AUD $89.99 Brickset: Extra Info Technic Early 2017 Review Series Welcome to the eighth in my batch of 2017 Technic reviews! I was offered all the small early 2017 sets for review late last year... but I ended up getting the bigger ones too! Thus I have a lot to review. I've been doing them in parallel and changing my process as I go so hopefully the latter ones will end up being the best. On that angle I'll probably retcon some of the earlier reviews if I improve my process. Due to this remember that I'm happy to take extra photos or provide extra info on request, and anything especially good will be added to the main body of the review. Do note though that sometimes the model may no longer exist if I have have made an alternate. On the subject of alternates, I will be making the alt model, if I have the instructions, think the model is worth making, and I have the time. Also I'll show mid stage construction only if I think it's relevant. Thus don't ask for construction photos or alt models if they aren't part of the review.... I am prepared to extract parts for detail photos though. Photos will all be hosted on Flickr so larger versions are available, and relevant videos will be on YouTube and linked to from here. I don't edit photos much; very rarely I'll crop one and almost never will "correct" them so the photos should be as natural as possible. I will try to not be repetitive; thus it's worth reading my other reviews. For example I'm not going to complain too much about the digital instructions; I'll try to complain about new things, or maybe not complain at all! Here's all the other reviews of H1 2017 Technic... 42057 Ultralight Helicopter 42058 Stunt Bike 42059 Stunt Truck (and 45058/42059 Combiner) 42060 Roadwork Crew 42061 Telehandler 42062 Container Yard 42063 BMW R 1200 GS Adventure 42064 Ocean Explorer 42065 Tracked Racer Mucho multi thanks to the EB LUG Ambassador CopMike and the LEGO CEE Team and Designers for allowing me to review these sets for Eurobricks. So onto the review! Packaging Front.... ...back.... ...top. Unboxing Standard punch box. Instructions were loose, and the set is very well segmented. Both models have included instructions, covers are of slightly better quality to the pages themselves. On the subject of instructions here's the parts list... ...and here's the (selected) instruction page showing the stacker steering. More on that later. Build Off we go! Here's Bag One in a container... ...which ends up making the truck. The part that holds on the headlights is a new re-colour... ...and the anniversary part unique to this wave is used on the bottom. The steering has rather bad limits (pretty much what you see) but it does the job. These are the Bag One spares. On to Bag Two! Shouldn't be too hard to work out what's being made here. Hopefully you expected this. Bag Two spares. Bag Three! Note the new re-colour of the gear rack. I'm glad this part is back. Also worth noting are the... ...new worm gear and connector, in many of the other 2017 sets and shamelessly taken from another review. Obviously this builds the stacker. Which means we're done! Bag Three spares.... ...and total spares... but in hindsight I think there's an extra pin in there that I was using to join the containers together with. Here's a quick video showing the functions. The stickers aren't really needed in this set, they just add a bit of colour. Really I think the containers need the detail most. Does this mean Danish trucks share plates with their trailers? Note that the containers really are too thin. So let's demonstrate the primary function; lifting and stacking! Broom, broom, the stacker approaches... ...opens the grabber... ...finds the convenient pickup holes... ...latches shut the jaws (using the lever on top)... ...and lifts the Bricks and Beams. I failed to make this clear in the video, but the extension mechanism is quite capable of stopping halfway, even with a load. I think it's mostly because of the friction in the gear rack Also, it can reach high enough to "stack". As I highlight in the video, the load capacity of the stacker is a bit above an empty container; some sort of counterweight is needed. The set doesn't have much other features; the trailer has no function, not even a support leg... ...and the truck has weak steering, opening door and reclining seats. On a positive note, the steering control is via a universal joint. The trailer connection is extremely simple as well. Most of the set detail and function is in the stacker. Like the truck, it's roughly minifig scale, and it's got some interesting techniques. The steering is controlled from the back and it is very simple but still interesting as (looking at the instructions at the top) it uses a joint ball to push the steering arm from side to side. I haven't seen that done before in Technic. (I didn't make the B model; its a straddle loader with a different truck.) Ratings Function: The functions are all there to enable you to play/test out the concept. Since it's a small model many of the functions are not remotely controlled which I tend to feel a bit disappointed by... but having a remote grabber release for example is generally not done even on larger models. 8/10 Parts: Another good orange part pack, and a very good blend of parts too. 9/10 Price: Considering the prices I'm seeing this year this is pretty standard. 9/10 Accuracy: Sadly I think the truck lets down the whole set. Four wheels not six? Sure, that's kinda common. The trailer though is too simple; not enough wheels, no support, and it's thinner than the containers. The stacker on the other hand is excellent. 6/10 Fudge: As I keep saying, the stacker is the highlight. Oddly I wish they went for a lower price point and skipped the truck. Or perhaps a higher? In any case it does seem this set is designed for minifigs. Don't really like that either... 6/10 Overall: Build the stacker and containers and use the rest as spare parts! 7/10
  19. Hi, I have been trying and failing to make a small pneumatic car wth two cylinders that when air is pumped into an air tank, and a valve is released, the car will roll along a flat surface. Any ideas? Parts that I have: 2 (or 4) of the not-V2 style large cylinders 1 x Airtank 5 valves and 2 old style valves NOTE: I bought some small pumps, but they were all faulty.
  20. Racetrack start lights Bridge My own Construction. Suitable for DTM or Formula 1. Inspired by Bruno's DTM BWM and Mercedes Programmed functions: Formation Lap Race Start Race Break Safty Car Powerfunktion: - 2x SBricks - 11x PF Lights - 1x PF Akku Instruction with SBrick Programm: http://pixelts.de.tl/New-Modell.htm Partlist: https://rebrickable.com Backround Picture SBrick: Video:
  21. Hi to everybody! I'm here to present my new Moc. I started building this crane truck about 6 months ago with the main idea of solving the problems related to a failed attempt of a crane for my previous truck. IMG_1608 by Lucio Switch, su Flickr Starting from the cab...despite the undeniable resemblance to the cab of the dump truck (with a bit of the tractor truck), it has slightly different dimensions, and the add of some new details/functions, forced me to revise it completely. In fact, in addition to the "standard" opening doors, this time, as on real trucks, the cab is suspended, while maintaining the tilting function and the working steering wheel and the front grid is openable. Moreover the seats are pneumatically suspended via 2 (1+1) 1x5 pneumatic cylinders. The chassis has the tractions on the 2 last axles, they are driven by 4 XL Motors and uses 2 Servo Motors to steering the first two axles (with different turning radius). The first two axles use independent suspensions. In this case I was inspired by the Mod of the chassis of my Tractor Truck done by Efferman ... that has a perfect shape for a fake v8. On the back there are 2 live axles (with a total of 24 hard shock absorbers). Between the first two axles there are two small pneumatic pumps moved by two L Motors. In addition to that, on the chassis are present 2 Li-Po Battery, 5 Leds for lights and 2 SBricks. Behind the cabin there is the base of the crane, it contains the front stabilizers, extendable via a M motor (connected to one SBrick), 6 pneumatic valves, moved by an M motor each, 4 IR receivers to control the 6 valves motors plus 2 other M motors, one to rotate the crane and one for the winch. The 4 receivers take power from a port of an SBrick. Finally the crane ... well, the classic design of this type of crane with the upper arm offset (as on 8258 for instance) built on this scale, gave me big problems twisting the whole structure ... and a lot of headaches. One day I came across by chance in a truck with a Cormach crane, it presented a unique design that would solve the twist problem. So inspiring to this design, I have developed my crane, which consists of a telescopic upper arm (extension via 2x 1x11 pneumatic cylinders) supported by two side arms moved by 2+1 2x11 pneumatic cylinder each. It isn't able to lift heavy loads, but it works and, considering the masses involved, I'm fine with that. Now some numbers: Length: 86,4cm 108studs Width: 24,8cm 31studs, 28cm 35studs with mirrors Height: 39,2cm 49studs Weight: 8.6 kg Total number of parts: 8000 PF elements: M motor: 9 L Motor: 2 XL Motor: 4 Servo Motor: 2 PF LED: 5 Lipo Battery: 2 ..and a couple of wire extensions Pneumatic Elements: Small pumps: 2 1x5 Cylinder: 2 Medium Cylinder old: 4 Medium Cylinder new: 2 1x11 Cylinder: 2 2x11 Cylinder: 6 Valve: 6 ..and several meters of pipes. For more pictures check my Flickr Album: Crane Truck Flickr Album And this is the video: To conclude, I would say that, in some way it was a new and interesting experience for me. Due to circumstances beyond our control, I was forced to transfer my Lego room in the basement, comfortable although perhaps a bit rustic but not directly connected with my apartment. This, coupled with the fact that my free time has been drastically reduced, has led me to review my usual workflow. So this is my first model built before digitally and then physically. This way allowed me to use better my free time and to select and pick up only the needed parts to build, reducing drastically the mess in the living room. Also part of the work for the BI is already done, I'll done them for sure, but I don't have idea when they will be ready. I'm afraid that it will be a huge job! I hope you like it!
  22. I finally completed my most complicated LDCad animation to date It is a fully animated 8860 LEGO technic 'super car' set. You can watch it here (2:15 long). https://youtu.be/Ea1iHCSPbqo (Some how youtube messed with the quality though, the original x264 mkv is much sharper) It is an OpenGL export, I was originally planning to do a POV-Ray rendering (I've got the POV file) but it would take over 200 hours to render as it would need very high radiosity settings to prevent background flickering. This would result in 3750 frames of this quality: Fullsize img: http://www.melkert.net/img/mel/8860.png If anyone know of a way to reduce that flickering without having to crank the radiosity settings to 11 please let me know.
  23. Hello fellow builders! I felt that it was finally time to share with you all something that I've been working on/ playing with for a while now: My L-Motor Frame. L-Motor Block Types by Nick Jackson, on Flickr The concept for this project was to create a stable platform on which (primarily) steam engines could be produced with less motor& cable obstructions. L-Motor Block Types by Nick Jackson, on Flickr This would then allow the engine's body to be built relatively free of electrical components, or crammed with them in the case of tank engines. L-Motor Block Variants by Nick Jackson, on Flickr I think that the most interesting part of the frame is the fact that it is easily modifiable, and can essentially go from 2 to 7 axles! At the time of writing this however, I've only dared to go up to 4 axles for a related project. L-Motor Block Variants (2) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Hopefully these frames and their different gear ratios will inspire you to make a steam engine! Although, there are a great many European engines that are not steam, but employ connecting rods for their drive wheels. L-Frame with Medium-Large wheels by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Lastly, here are some alternative wheel sizes that you may be interested in. These are made possible by the work of BigBen Bricks and @Shupp. The smallest feasible size would be the Medium-Large drivers by Shupp. These would need a bit of reworking from a standard L-Frame in order to clear switches and such. New Wheels!!! (2) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Here, a set of XL wheels from BigBen fit nicely on a standard frame. L-Frame with XXL wheels by Nick Jackson, on Flickr And, by upgrading to the longer frame size, you could even accommodate 6 of Shupp's XXL wheels! Hopefully this post will benefit everyone, but moreso people who've had a difficult time getting into trains, and especially steam! Please, let me know your thoughts, and definitely share your ideas for a potential future build that might benefit from this design! Oh, and here's the link to the files: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9xAgBdzDImZaFFsM2lGVkdmcEk Thanks for reading, ~M_Slug357~
  24. hi all, some months ago i made this video of lego battlebots, and now i'm posting it there because maybe you could be interested also for TC11, you'll find all the bot info in the video but i'll clone them here too, hope to bring up a brickshelf folder asap for the two bots (but i have to rebuild them due to pieces and electronics being used for witch doctor replica, cardiac two, fanmade design, killerhurts and recyclopse chassis, and other 3 500g class bot an grabber a lifer and a flipper) PULSAR weight: 700g size: 23x27x9studs weapon: 73g spinning drum with two single teeth 1900rpm strenghts: really effective wedge shape used to go under the opponent and lift them with the drum energy weaknesses: the drum isn't enough fast to launch the oppnent on the air, wheelholders may break off easily, weak wepon belt CARBIDE weight: 730g size: 32x32x9 studs weapon: 84g spinning bar 750rpm strenghts: great power and though armor, effective rear wedge weaknesses: the armor can e warped or bent and increase friction in the drivetrain, hard to control, high battery consumption here a photos from Ellis (pulsar builder) about size comparison here the video: NB it is really long, if you want, after presentation, you can skip to 11:02 to skip the fist fight (a bit long and boring) and save time without losing the most of the action! i'm keeping editing this with photos and videos from my twitter, it is hard to find them back but i'll try: CARBIDE PULSAR
  25. An RC seaplane! Larger than 42025, more functional and accurate! It has RC Drive, steering, and all flight surfaces working: ailerons, rudders, airbrakes, elevators, and flaps! Video: Thanks! BrickbyBrick