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Found 22 results

  1. INTRODUCTION This gearbox is the successor of my previous 8+N+R-gearbox. It is based on the new parts released on the Yamaya MT-10 SP #42159. Thanks to these, I could make a new and better gearbox for 1:8 manual supercars. Thanks to the 8 positions by rotation, I made a 6+N+R gearbox. The best arrangement I found was to put 2 cylinders between 2 shafts, each cylinder controlling 2 forks. Thus, I would need 2 cylinders to make the 8 positions I wanted. VIRTUAL DESIGN I started with simulations in Excel when the parts were not available yet. The purpose was to virtually recreate the functioning of the new rotary cylinders to find out a configuration that worked. So, I reproduced the sequence of the cylinders. Then, I created an offset between the 2 cylinders. To make the best gearbox possible, it was necessary to obtain: Reverse gear on an extremity of a shaft Not 2 gears engaged at the same time on the same shaft EXCEL TABLE The Excel table may seem hard to understand, but the main difficulty is because I made written in French! The first column represents the positions of the rotary cylinders. The second column is used to create an offset between the 2 cylinders. I tested all the configurations and keeped the ones that respected the criteria above. Then, I used the supposedly working configurations to calculate the possible gear ratios. The sub-table called “Transitions” corresponds to the ratio between the two main shafts. Then, on the sub-tables on the right, I put the gears on the primary and secondary shafts to get 3 different ratios on each shaft, placed in the correct sequence, for each remaining possible configuration. I got only 2 possible configurations (A and B). Other configurations exist, but they are symmetries of these two configurations, so they are useless. I finally came out with only one possible configuration, which is the one I realized in Stud.io and in real life. IMPROVEMENTS Compared to my previous gearbox, this new version features: Way better efficiency More compact, easier to integrate into a chassis More reliable gear selector More realistic and easier to understand The shifter can be less robust The input and the output are centred, and can easily be moved It is reversible, meaning that you can power both the input and the output Gears better staged HOW IT WORKS? The way it works is close to a dual-clutch gearbox - however, the exact same operation cannot be achieved due to the way the sequence of a rotary changeover cylinder is made. The ratios are better staged than the ones of my previous gearbox. The reverse gear is situated between the 1st and the 2nd gear, making it more realistic. R: -0.375 N: 0 1st: 0.25 2nd: 0.45 3rd: 0.50 4th: 0.75 5th: 0.90 6th: 1.50 A simple mechanism prevents from shifting from 6th to reverse gear. This mechanism can easily me moved to another place (for instance close to the shifter) though. The centre changeover cylinder is used to create a 45° offset between the two other cylinders. However, to spare a part, you can use one of the following assemblies. VIDEO REBRICKABLE LINK Here is the Rebrickable link if you want to test this gearbox! https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-171508/Anto/ultimate-6nr-gearbox-with-forks/#details I’m wondering what the gearbox on this summer’s supercar will look like. It should either be pretty similar, or totally different. What do you think?
  2. Hi folks, I'm happy to share my latest creation to complete my 2022-lineup. With this model, the craziest journey is now over that I've ever had for an alternate build. This replica of a Ferrari F40 is purely built from Lego set 42143 Ferrari Daytona SP3 as an alternate model (B-model). Having the set 42143, all required parts will be donated and no additional parts are needed to build this F40. The model uses 23 spare parts from Daytona's large spares inventory, resulting in 3603 total parts for this MoC with 95% Daytona parts used. More info and instructions can be found here Functions & Features independent suspension in front and back manual steering with working steering wheel openable doors with locking system openable hood openable rear section working popup-headlights with linkage system 5+R speed transmission gearbox F40-V8-engine with moving pistons open window in bottom to view gearbox detailed interior and engine-bay modular building with separate premium PDF-files detailed design with printed parts fits all Supercars in 1:8 scale measures (all parts closed) 57cm x 26cm x 14cm Impressions Engine The V8-engine with moving pistons is directly connected through the gearbox to the rear differential. By opening and stabilizing the rear section, the engine and engine-bay can be revealed to watch inside this F40. The engine-bay is one of the most detailed part for an alternate model, with exhaust pipes completely made from the engine to the rear end. Even the crossbar from the back to the roof, that gives the real F40 more structure, has found a way into this model. The stabilizer-bar that keeps the rear section open can be stored safely under the rear without loosing them. Gearbox Welcome to my most realistic gearbox so far - the 5+R speed transmission gearbox inside the middle console of the car with a shifter layout very next to the original. For a full wheel spin, the engine fires 1.841 times in the first gear and only 0.663 times in the fifth gear. A higher selected gear results in less friction on the drivetrain and in lower moving pistons of the engine. Following is a summary of all gear ratios, measured from wheel (input) to engine shaft (output): Reverse - 1:1.767R 1. Gear - 1:1.841 2. Gear - 1:1.479 3. Gear - 1:1.104 4. Gear - 1:0.884 5. Gear - 1:0.663 Popup-headlights The model features iconic popup-headlights like the real F40 does, triggered by hand. Once the hood is open, the mechanism can be triggered to open and close the lights. This linkage mechanism is secured with a rubber band, holding the lights strong and in place. The following animation shows exactly how the popup-headlights works. Details The model uses most of the printed parts from its 42143 donor set, giving it the final touch and the instantly recognizable Ferrari brand. Doors of this F40 are implemented with a locking-mechanism. The doors snaps in automatically and stays in closed position. More features to mention are the iconic black stripes around the car, the air-intakes, the slightly angled shapes, the detailed interior with printed dashboard and the front lights, that are very detailed under the trans-clear parts. Instructions & building process The premium instructions for this model comes in 5 separate PDF-files with high quality images and building steps that are very close to the original Technic-instructions. The build can be quite challenging for inexperienced builders, but is for a 18+ set of course a satisfying experience for more practiced adults. Building this F40 starts on the 368 pages long main PDF with the ingenious 5+R speed transmission gearbox and the front axle to complete the front section of the chassis. The build continues with the second PDF and 136 pages later, the rear section is added to the front. After the marriage process with rear and front section, more parts are added to the chassis to make a solid structure, where every function works perfect at this point of the build. Iconic lines are more and more represented to give this model a real F40 experience. The third PDF takes over to complete the openable rear on 170 pages and added to the build. Some more details are added and the roof and windshield will be finished, getting closer to a real looking F40. On the fourth PDF, both doors are built and attached to the car 78 pages later. The F40 continues with the fifth and last PDF to build the hood on 185 pages with the triggering mechanism for the popup-headlights and then attached to the model. After 937 pages in total, the F40 alternate build is finished in all its glory. Comparison Final note With 95% Daytona parts used, this model pushes the limit of what is possible with a given inventory, offering builders a relative easy way to create this F40, where only the 42143 donor set is needed providing all the parts. I'm happy that I've finally managed the biggest brainfuck that I've ever had in my head with this model, resulting in the biggest model I've ever made and in one of the biggest alternate builds in history. Thanks to Uwe Wabra, my favourite designer, who makes this possible just with the Daytona. With several functions and authentic design-features very close to the original one, this model is not only a piece to display. More info and instructions can be found here Have fun with this Ferrari F40 alternate build.
  3. Before I disappoint anyone I want to say that this project is still in a phase where I am not sure if I will actually build the car. Right now I just want to see if I can fit a 6speed manual transmission with AWD and 4 wheel steering into one car and make it work reliably. But if things do work out I will probably finish the R34 project because the R32,R33 and R34 are the only japanese cars I know of to combine AWD and 4WS This is my current progress: I managed to squeeze a gear rack into the transmission I used for my R32 GT-R to give it 4 wheel steering. I also had to decrease the overall width on each side by 1 stud to give the tires space to turn without rubbing here you can see the gear rack placement. I had some massive issues clearing the two differentials, but it all worked out very well in the end. And I only had to increase the transmission length by 1 stud! I am satisfied. Bellyshot. The 20T bevel gear engaging with the center diff will be replaced with the new 20t straight cut gear once I get my hands on it. Thanks again to @Zerobricks for trying out if this combination would work. Gray Gear
  4. After what felt like forever I am finally ready to presesnt you my latest MOC: The Nissan 180SX Type X! Building Instructions are live now on Rebrickable, no more waiting this time : Rebrickable The 180SX has always been one of my favorite cars from Japan. I always wanted to build a drift car, and since the 180SX is probably the most popular drift car to ever exist it was a natural choice. Fitted with a full rollcage, a switch to turn off the HICAS w wheel steering system and a front steering with increased turning radius, ackermann and a positive caster angle this car is sure to be a lot of fun on the togue. One of my inspirations was the badass Sil80 from Initial D, driven by Mako and Sayuki. The License Plate is a nod to this Origin. I even made the front Bumper easy to remove/replace, In case I want to do a Silvia front swap myself later Features:- working SR20DET fake engine- 6speed manual transmission with "Safeshift" system- HoG steering with moving steering wheel. - HICAS 4 wheel steering can be turned on or off using a gear in the cabin- Independent suspension all around- Pop up Headlights can be controlled using a gear in the cabin- Opening hood, trunk and doors One of my goals with this MOC was that every bodypanel of the real car could be built in a different color. My blue+White version has all the spice Type X bits in white color, as it is an earlier 180SX that has been facelifted by the Owner to look like a type X. This was often done back when the facelift came out, because the Panels were easy to swap and not that expensive. That's why you see so many 180SX drift cars with mismatched bodypanels: swapping a "new" panel from the scrapyard is was was easy and cheap. My use of a lot of system Bricks combined with a lot of details caused a part count of close to 4200 bricks Of course I used Sariel's model scaler once again: http://scaler.sariel.pl/ The transmission and HICAS 4 wheels steering can be seen from below The rollcage provides a very rigid body, you can pick the car up by the roof no problem :) Because GoBricks had all the bricks I needed in flat silver I decided to make all the Engine, Piping, exhaust and the Rollcage in flat silver color. Why not? Due to the many color change requests I recieved for my R32 I made Instructions for 4 different colorscemes this time, and the Black+Orange version can even be built with LEGO only! Find more Renders of all 4 Versions here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Gray_Gear/gray-gears-nissan-180sx-type-x/finished-moc Headlights can either use trans clear 2x4 Tile, or Print/Sticker on black 2x4 tile. You'll get the image for the prints with the instructions on Rebrickable. I hope you enjoy my MOC, and I am looking forward to your comments Best regards, Gray Gear Below you can find some more Pictures.
  5. Whats up everybody, hope y'all are doing well. I would like you to meet this little Godzilla of mine This car was built with the car scene in "Wangan Midnight" in mind: Modified cars steetracing on the Wangan Highway, where everything is about top speed. The car's engine has been converted to a bigger single turbo for better top speed and improved cooling, a vented hood and bigger intercooler setup for improved cooling, bucketseats and a weld-in rollcage. And of course the little lip on the trunk and spoiler and a massive flamespitting cannon exhaust pipe. Obviously I used quite a few Non-LEGO pieces here and there to achieve the desired look. Features: working RB26DETT fake engine (the second "T" should be removed tho because this car has a single turbo conversion) 6speed AWD manual transmission with "Safeshift" system HoG steering with moving steering wheel Independent suspension all around Opening hood and trunk Opening doors with locking mechanism Check out Sariels awesome Model Scaler tool, it helped me a ton once again: http://scaler.sariel.pl/ Specs: scale: 1:8 length: 56 cm width: 24 cm height:16 cm Weight: 2.8kg Piece count: estimated 2500-3500 What everybody wants to see in this forum: I tried to keep as much of the transmission visible from below as possible. I know this pic doesn't do the engine bay justice, but its all I have now. The body is amazingly rigid thanks to the functional weld-in rollcage. And a nice group pic with my 2 previous projects: A few more pics: I hope you enjoyed reading this, leave your thoughts in the comments below ;) Gray Gear
  6. After four years of on-and-off work, I completed my first 1:8 Technic car, a detailed Lexus LC500 powered by Mindstorms EV3. Why Mindstorms EV3? The project started before I purchased a BuWizz 2.0 along with PF motors, I also wanted to build the best car I could with EV3, as it first got me into Lego Technic almost 7 years ago. After those previously mentioned years of on-and-off, which were for designing the chassis, it took five months to make the exterior, as close to the real car as possible. The LC500 EV3 has opening doors, hood, and trunk, working steering and drive with working steering wheel and paddle-shift* 4-speed gearbox, retractable "Performance Package" spoiler controlled by a medium motor, full independent suspension, fake detailed V8 engine with moving pistons, DNR shifter, adjustable front seats*, rear seats, functioning glove box, and custom stickers. *Special thanks to @Jeroen Ottens for his great DB11 instructions! Greatly helped with the chassis, front adjustable seats, and paddle shifters. The LC500 EV3 is more of a display model than ideal RC car (due to popping cv-joints in the differential and stressed motors due to weight) so I decided to keep it as is. More pictures on Bricksafe: https://bricksafe.com/pages/StudWorks/lexus-lc500-ev3 Thanks to the EuroBricks community for helpful feedback along the way.
  7. Hi there everybody, since some of you asked for more WIP topics in the "Decreasing number of MOCs" topic, I thought I would take you along with my latest project, hopefully from start to finish. I wanted to build a drift car, and what other car ycould that be than the Nissan Silvia? deciding between S13, S14 and S15 was pretty easy, since pop up headlights are awesome. So I went for the most suitable model, the 180SX Type X. A quick search on google brought up this Blueprint. Not perfect, but good enough. Since this is a car with the classic FR layout I took the 6-speed manual transmission from my Nissan R32 GTR MOC and removed the AWD. I'ts running very smooth. After the pop-up headlights were completed I started modelling the front bumper. This bumper is really difficult, all the proportions are hard to recreate from bricks. I tried it like this, and while it is pretty accurate these stacked plates dont look very nice. Often it is better to choose the less accurate but better looking solution, so that's what I'll try next. I would love if someone could suggest a solution for the front lip that wraps all around the bottom of the bumper. It is 1.7 studs high and the angle does not want to match any solution I come up with. I know this does not look like much, but thats what happens when you look at the early stages of a MOC. I hope you enjoyed this, I'll try to keep you updated on my progress. Gray Gear
  8. I present you the most accurate, functional and highest performing supercar I've ever made, the BuWizz GTA Spano: The main goal behind this scale version was to be as faithful to the design and configuration of the real GTA Spano as possible while maintaining a high degree of performance and functionality. This 1:8 scale model car has been designed, developed and manufactured in close collaboration with Spania GTA and has a total of 3,880 LEGO pieces, ten BuWizz Motors for propulsion, five motors for other functions and five BuWizz 3.0 Pro controllers, which allow it to reach a maximum speed of 36.5 km/h, a new world record for such a heavy and accurate model. It features the following functions: 10 BuWizz motors used for the rear wheel drive with vector control 1 PU L motor used for steering and rotating the steering wheel 1 PU M motor used to lift and tilt the rear spoiler 1 PU M motor used for the fake V10 engine 2 PU M motors used to open the doors Full independent suspension on all wheels Opening hood, engine cover and the rear trunk Today I’m going to go a bit deeper into the design process and technical details of the model. First in order to achieve the required level of realism I imported the manufacturer’s 3D file of the car's body in LDD and used it as a reference, here in blue: As mentioned before, the power is supplied by 10 BuWizz motors which use the outer outputs geared up using 40 and 24 tooth gears giving a 1.67x gear ratio on the rear drive wheels. Without load, the wheels can spin with up to 50 km/h. Power is transmitted to the rear drive wheels using the new heavy duty CV joints. To support so many motors and BuWizz bricks, the rear axle was designed to support a weight of over 2,5 kilograms. Here the shape of the BuWizz motors was of a high advantage, since you can easily stack them on the same drive axle. As you can see on the following image, the rear axle is one of the densest; most interconnected and complicated parts of the whole car. The front axle is designed to feature a positive caster angle, which gives the model additional stability when driving at high speeds. The steering uses double steering links in order to reduce the play of the system. A single PU L motor steers the wheels and the steering wheel. Along with the 3D model of the exterior, I also used the 3D model of the interior to design…well, the interior. I took great care to model the seats so they are in proper scale and very detailed using a combination of studless and studded bricks. For highly accurate details, custom stickers were used for the gauges, central console and of course the logo: As with the interior, the engine bay also uses a combination of studded and studless parts in order to match the real one as close as possible. I also used tiles in Light Bright Orange color to represent the space grade gold foil heat shield of the real car: The wheels are custom elements which I personally designed and 3D printed. A big challenge was to design them in a way to be accurate to the original source, yet strong enough to support this 4+ kg model at speeds over 35 km/h. With all the mechanical and functional parts completed, it was time to create an accurate representation of the bodywork. As mentioned before, using the 3D CAD model came really handy in capturing all the organic shapes and curves of the original model. Here are some highlights: Analog to the real car, this representation also features a lot of opening surfaces. The doors and the rear spoiler are motorized while the front boot, rear engine cover and the rear trunk can be opened manually: To summarize, the whole project took some 6 months to complete from receiving the 3D files to the speed-breaking final version of the model. For me, this was a really nice learning experience and I’m proud to say it’s one of the best models I’ve designed so far. If you are interested to know more about not just the model, but also the cooperation between BuWizz and Spania GTA, please check the following video:
  9. Hi guys, I'm addicted to Lego and MOC cars collection, I built a custom-made furniture, hand-made, to exhibit my models, I designed by myself and realized in 3 months (in the free time of course). Now I'm looking for a model to fill the last 1:8 space. I was thinking to Shelby GT500 1:8 that i love, but I already own two Mustang including a moc of shelby made by lego set 10265. As Alternative maybe the Aston Martin GT3 but I'm not so convinced. Maybe I'd better wait for the 2022 Lego 1:8 model? Any suggestion about that? I'm also thinking to replace fiat 500 in the future, when I will fall in love with another 1:12 model PS thanks to brunojj1 for helping to fill two of the spaces
  10. This is a gearbox meant for scale 1:8 cars. It has 10 forward gears, park and reverse. See it in action in this video: For demo purposes I attach a fake engine and a rear section which shows how the driven wheels turn: These are also included in the building instructions if you want to try for yourself. The instructions are available here: https://brickhub.org/i/594 As explained in the video it uses a center differential in order to get just a single reverse gear and a single park "gear". I call it park instead of neutral as the gearbox is locked up when in that gear. Neutral would mean that the rear wheels are free running. The gear ratios are: Gear ratios (1 : X): R: -0.3 P: 0 1: 0.42 2: 0.6 3: 0.9 4: 1.2 5: 1.62 6: 1.8 7: 2.7 8: 3 9: 3.42 10: 3.6 And by changing the final gear, all ratios can be subject to a multiplier of your own choice. And speaking of multipliers. The gearbox has a 3 speed and a 4 speed transmission like those from the Chiron. And earlier version had two 4 speed transmissions. This, however, didn't allow for the Park and Reverse gears. For those to work I needed the following subtractor: I don't know how to fit that into a car, so I'm glad that the final design has ratios that actually work. In the video I go through the design process in detail and also give tips to others who want to design their own gearboxes, should they want to follow this approach. The instructions are in public domain and I will submit it to the gearbox thread:
  11. Toyota Supra MK4 A80 So I have been working on this car for quite a while now and want to show off the work and here some opinions. The car features: 6 speed gearboks with realistic gearshift Detailed engine Openable Doors (with realistic doorhadels) openable hood and trunk Hope you like it :) More details and video, can be found on rebrickable :) https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-62982/TheMatiss56/toyota-supra-mk4-a80/#details
  12. Rugged supercar - Hammerhead (1:9 scale) This project was not something I started very consciously. Also for me it evolved into something special. I was especially happy with the interference (in a positive way) of other builders. A big thank you to this community, for pushing me in the right direction on several occasions! The most special part - to me - of this build, is the chassis. It combines a simple 4-speed AWD transmission, a flawless sequential shifting mechanism and advanced suspension setups with Ackermann steering, anti-roll bars, torsion bars, 2 studs ground clearance and 2 studs suspension travel. All wrapped together in a very flat yet rigid and coherent structure with a mid-console width of only 5 studs. I did not want the bodywork to make any compromises to these features. I wanted the body to continue the line of durability set in by the chassis. Flex-axles do not fit that image, hence no wheel arcs. They would also sit 2 studs above the hood - not very elegant. The result is a car that does not only look fool-proof; it is fool-proof. After a rough treatment, you don't need to tighten connections or fine-tune gears to avoid friction. You can carry the car by the sides, by the trunk door (rear wing), by the nose and by the bumpers without displacing any parts. You can even grab the 2Kg build by the roof and turn it upside down to see the bottom side without a problem. So I did not intend to level with great bodywork builders. To me the biggest compliment is that some have referred to this model as the successor of 8865 and 8880. Drive train AWD with 3 differentials Sequential 4-speed gearbox One-finger shifter V8 fake engine Suspension Double wishbone suspension Anti-roll bars (front & rear) 2 studs suspension travel 2 studs ground clearance Steering Ackermann steering Gear-rack sliders Working steering wheel HoG steering Chassis Sturdy and durable Integrated bumpers Adjustable seats Narrow mid-console (5L) Bodywork Sturdy and durable Integrated roll-cage Lockable doors Openable trunk Liftable By the roof By the sides By the nose By the trunk door Instructions are available on Rebrickable. There is a full-featured version called 'Rugged supercar' and a chassis-only version called 'Flat AWD chassis'. The chassis-only version confines itself to part 1 of the instructions of the full-featured version. Special thanks to @Blakbird and @BusterHaus - with Blakbird being the driving force - for taking on the task of making these beautiful instructions! Making instructions for a build like this is a tremendous amount of work. Even more so, given the fact that I have been very demanding in sticking to my original design. - 32005a (Link 1 x 6 without Stoppers) - used for the anti-roll bars and steering tie rods - is preferred over 32005b (Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers), because each link has tow-balls inserted from both sides. 32005b can be used too, but in that case each link will have one tow-ball that needs quite some force to insert. - 32056 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape Thin) - used for the door locks - is preferred over 32249 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape with Quarter Ellipse Thin). 32249 can be used too, but makes it more likely to accidentally lock the door while it's open, which is not a big deal of course. - 76138 (Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring) - used for the door locks - should be soft springs. They are quite rare in red, but you could also use two LBG soft springs. - 85543 (Rubber Belt Small (Round Cross Section) - used for the 90 degree limiter and the return-to-center of the gear shifter - should be relatively new, say max 2 years. Not that they wear out quickly, but the older ones are slightly less tight. Images of the full-featured version can be found here. Images of the chassis-only version can be found here. See the entry on The LEGO Car Blog! P.S. Where real cars start with a sketch, evolve into a professional design and finally have their technical details filled-in, this project started with some technical details, evolved into a complete design and ended up in a sketch ;-). By @HorcikDesigns (http://horcikdesigns.deviantart.com/gallery/).
  13. I am still looking to tweak a few spots (the panel at the rear window is included in this), but mostly it is finished: 20190827_134133 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134604 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135244 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134945 by Appie NL, on Flickr I don't think I mentioned this before, but the "gas" and "break" pedal function as the forward/neutral/reverse for the gearbox. If I did the math right, then the reverse gear ratio is slightly above the ratio of the 2nd, perhaps not very realistic since afaik they are usually around the ratio of the 1st, I couldn't figure out a better ratio in the space I had left for this. 20190827_134741 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135042 by Appie NL, on Flickr The white levers with silver knobs control the windows and the black one on the dash controls the airconditioning. The lever below the steering wheel is for the lights. My aim was to have the positions for these controls as close to what they would be in a real car. Despite the roof being open, the front window levers are a little hard to reach for my big hands (especially with my left as you will see in the video below). 20190827_153707 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135520 by Appie NL, on Flickr My attempt to recreate the "star filled heaven" roof lining of the real Phantom. These are "glitter bricks". They only come in weird colours like dark pink until a set of Harry Potter brought these light blues. I considered adding PF lights to this for extra effect, but it didn't have the desired result in terms of lightning and I didn't want to use 3rd party stuff on this build. 20190827_134306 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134407 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135313 by Appie NL, on Flickr Behind the back of the trunk is the gearshifter from Attika and some wires. 20190827_140703 by Appie NL, on Flickr Perhaps looks a little bright in this picture, but there's only 2 PF leds per headlight on these. 20190827_140547 by Appie NL, on Flickr And the taillights, 1 PF led each. 20190827_140944 by Appie NL, on Flickr @Attika Here's your desired belly shot I don't have the new wire holders yet from Control+ sets and not sure of these can even hold 2-3 wires in 1, so I made something myself to hold/tunnel/guide the wires. At first I wanted to completely cover up the floor and "hide" the Technic like I mostly did on the rest of the car, but decided to keep it open. And some might notice that I updated the front suspension. When I nearly finished the build it needed an upgrade to 3 hard springs, same number as the rear, since the front suspension was pretty much dead in the old configuration. And a little video to showcase the windows and airconditioning Original opening post below this point: With all the great sportcars on this forum, I felt I had to try a different approach to the "1:8 Lego supercar". Choosing this car also gave me a good excuse to add different kind of functions usually not in these kind of cars. First of all I want to say thanks to a few people on this forum for information, techniques or mechanisms they provided: @Didumos69 and @jb70 for their work on the Chiron gearbox. This model uses their efficiently build Chiron gearbox, I only tweaked it slightly further to make it shorter. Also thanks Didumos and @Erik Leppen for their information on suspension, made it easier to look for how to fix stuff. @Attika for his compact servo based gearbox stepper which I used in this model. @Jeroen Ottens for all sorts of neat techniques and tricks in his DB11. The front mounting of the suspension is very similar to his to get the engine very low like in his DB11. I am sure I forgot a few people, my apologies. So here's the current progress: WIP3Frontside by Appie NL, on Flickr WIP3RearSide by Appie NL, on Flickr WIP3Side by Appie NL, on Flickr The current features are: - 8 speed gearbox - V12 fake engine - Suspension - Electric windows - "Airco" - Lights I think, despite the outer shell being about 70% system bricks and 30% technic, the base of the car is all Technic and that it should belong in this forum and not the scale forum. This is how the car looked in the early stages: WIPRollsPhantomFront2 by Appie NL, on Flickr But if Jim or Milan thinks it should still be in the other forum, I am sure he will move it. The reason for the mostly system outer shell is because I had a hard time making all the little curves with Technic (panels) and I felt those little curves made the difference to try and capture this car. Especially at the front, after that I tried to minimize Technic panel use because it would be a breach of style at that point. Overall I am happy how it turned out so far, some parts I don't like. The windscreen being the biggest offender with how square and flat it looks, but the A-pillars being part of the structural integrity of the model made it hard to come up with something else. Stuff left to do: - Dashboard and midconsole - Front seats - Roof - Mirrors - The bottom 2 studs of the model (under the doors, bottom of front grill and the second layer of the floor to hide wires and provide more rigidity to the model)
  14. The American Club Racing (ACR) model was introduced in 1999, starting with the Viper GTS (Phase SR II). Exclusive 1 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This model had suspension and engine enhancements focused on maximizing performance in road racing and autocross environments. Horsepower was bumped to 460 hp (370 kW) in these models, while torque increased to 500 lb·ft (678 N·m). Weight was reduced by over 50 pounds (23 kg) by stripping the interior and removing other non-essential items such as the fog lamps (replacing them with brake ducts). Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr In an attempt to stay true to its heritage, I've left this beast without bells and whistles in the name of speed.It sport a front clam shell hood, opening rear trunk, and spring back doors. The real catch here is in the speed and options. Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This Viper packs 2x Buwizz 2.0 (with Ludicrous mode) that power this monster directly to 2x Buggy motors. The gearing is accessible and can be swapped for a higher or lower gear in minutes. Ratios avail: 1:1 and 1:1.7. This model also has many build options: 1. 1 or 2 buwizz / 1 or 2 Lipo / 1 or 2 Sbrick 2. 2 Buggy motor or 2 XL motor 3. Fully manual car (just remove the electronics 4. Swap out the engine on the fly for a new one! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The Viper also has a rake to it that I also replicated. 1 stud off the ground at the front, 2.5 studs at the rear. Dodge Viper ACR- open hood by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Its been a pleasure playing with this car OUTDOORS (don't even think of play indoors, I smashed it over 10 times) and I hope you guys enjoy the video! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR - Overlay by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Flickr Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmeHa4rL Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/loxlego Crash compilation: Dodge Viper - Crashes by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
  15. So here's the latest project I have been working on. I am actually waiting for 5 parts to arrive (4 tiles on the "boomerang" at the bargeboards and the exhaust in flat silver instead of LBG), but otherwise it is finished. I tried to recreate a F1 car with 2019 specfications with "typical" Red Bull stuff in mind (rake and pullrod in the rear for example). I took some liberty here and there. All the freaking winglets on these cars in real life+Technic=meh. So I went for a pretty basic flow of panels and wings. Another reason I also took some liberty was because trying to find blueprints or other good images for size reference of the 2019 or even 2018 cars were hard to come by for any of the teams. Or I just suck at searching, but I'd find it understandable if it is actually hard to find, since teams wouldn't want that stuff public. 20190921_135837 by Appie NL, on Flickr Functions are: - 8 speed gearbox (used didumos' and JB70's revised Chiron gearbox again, that I made 3 studs shorter again) with V6. - HOG steering through the T-cam and working steering wheel - Pushrod suspension front, pullrod in the rear - Had to sacrifice the driver's seat for a very basic gear selector mechanism due to lack of space elsewhere. 20190921_135940 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190921_140038 by Appie NL, on Flickr The point at which the nose goes from angled to flat is too far towards the front of the car compared to real life, as the curving point tends to be right above the axle of the wheels. I am aware of this, due to the suspension setup in that section this was the best I could do. 20190921_140228 by Appie NL, on Flickr The diffuser isn't looking too good from this angle, the only good angle is looking right into the rear of the car. Couldn't figure out a better one with the limited mounting options in that section and the diff+suspension. 20190921_140301 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190921_140342 by Appie NL, on Flickr In case you were now going: This belly shot sucks! Got you covered! (pun intended :D) 20190921_140422 by Appie NL, on Flickr I wanted to make a similar floor at first for my Rolls too, but dropped it because I am not going to be flipping that model very often to show the belly. And having to uncover it too after flipping, would be troublesome on that model. 20190921_140610 by Appie NL, on Flickr Close-up of the pullrod suspension in the rear and my crappy DRS system. Due to lack of space to route some controls for DRS to the cockpit with a diff, suspension, V6 and gearbox blocking alot of the way, I opted for this instead. 20190921_140645 by Appie NL, on Flickr Should have angled this pic more on the cockpit, but oh well. T-cam for HOG, yellow knob gear in the headrest is to flip the gears. 20190921_140956 by Appie NL, on Flickr Since Red Bull is known for the rake they have on their cars I had to mimic that too. It's a small angle, but it's there and pretty close to real life I think. In case you wonder, the car weighs about 1.7kg.
  16. Here is a quick summary of a previous post. Right now I'm planning on a new project and I could use some help. It's a 1:8 scale model of Lexus' LC coupe powered by Lego Mindstorms EV3. Currently, I have the rear axle built off the instructions from the Porsche 911 GT3 RS set. I also made the engine for the LC500 on Lego Digital Designer and I am wondering if it is good enough to buy the pieces for it on BrickLink. I also want to add the following features: Four or six-speed paddle-shift transmission Retractable spoiler Detailed interior Fake V8 engine (but I would like to achieve moving pistons) Full independent suspension I would welcome some helpful comments about the V8 engine, axles, and the gearbox I planned to use before I order pieces on BL. Thank you.
  17. This is my first WIP post on EuroBricks where I will show my progress on my newest build, an EV3-powered 1:8 replica of Lexus' newest flagship coupe, the LC500. The car will most likely be a combination of both the standard and the V6 hybrid LC, but it will have a V8. The body will also be orange. Here's a photo I found of an LC that looks a lot like the one I am shooting for. Features I'm planning to add: Four or six-speed paddle-shift transmission Retractable spoiler Detailed interior Fake V8 engine (but I would like to achieve moving pistons) Full independent suspension All I built so far was the rear axle for the LC. It's exactly like the one in the Porsche 911 GT3 RS set but more reinforced. I also made the V8 engine using Lego Digital Designer. I plan to build the paddle-shifting mechanism used in Didumos' Ultimately Playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS (the one with the tilted wheel) and pair it up with a gearbox. I currently am having trouble whether to motorize his gearbox with the EV3 motors or to pick a different one with less gears and friction. I also am having a little bit of trouble finding the right front axle, though I like the one that Didumos put his Porsche because of the fact that is has two shocks for each wheel. However, I find it very difficult to fit the V8 engine in the middle since the axle is made for a rear-engine car. Here's a poorly drawn render I made of what I'm trying to achieve with the front axle. And here's the chassis in the real LC and the measurements for the LC Lego model. Overall, I'm excited about the build. I would welcome some helpful comments about the V8 engine, axles, and the gearbox I planned to use before I order pieces on BL. Once I start working on the body and aesthetics, I would appreciate some input with that as well. I can also give you the download for the .lxf file of the engine if you'd like to check it out. I look forward to replying to your comments and sharing my progress. Thank you.
  18. I everyone, I start a WIP topic to show you frequently my progress on the Bugatti Chiron. Here we are. I wanted to create a new supercar (or megacar) before I finished my dual clutch gearbox. I love Bugatti brand and the new Chiron is so beautiful so I decided to create and design this car in Lego. I don't have finished instructions of the gearbox because it's very long :( All the features attended : A 7 speeds + reverse sequential dual clutch gearbox ( You can't see it on the picture because I'm working on the instruction) It's placed under the w16 engine Variable hight suspension on the front and on the rear Working pfs direction 4x4 transmission Working spoiler A manual gearbox to select between two rc functions (move the spoiler or move the suspensions) A global clutch to disconnect the car from the 4 L motors pfs. Typically ti will be possible two switch between a manual and a RC mode A hog for the manual mode Manual doors and roof I will add the real specifications soon. So, what I've already done now: The new dual clutch gearbox Rear axle Front axle Under chassis A mini functions gearbox 2 speeds W16 realistic motor The global clutch transmission I decided to begin the global design of the car because it the most difficult to create IMO just after the working transmission :) When I will be satisfied by the design, I will add the missing features and add others maybe. I think It's the best way to build a supercar. If the design is bad, even you have the best mechanic created, nobody care. I choose blue obviously ;) I've already ordered a lot of blue pieces on BL. Stay tune and do not hesitate to comment ;)
  19. Hello guys ! I am happy to start this new project (thought I haven't finished the other car ). So far I built the front suspention and the grille : And with tires : If you are wondering what is with those dark bluish gray beams, well, that is the maximum distance at where the engine can be placed relative to front wheels. @Sariel's scaler said that this car is in 1:8,3 scale . Please , you see anything that can be improoved just leave a comment :) LDD file is coming soon, just need to finish it (first time I use LDD so it will be interesting) . IA creations
  20. Current status: 8+N+R gearbox, D-N-R shifter, and the engine done. Also some color matchings and a little bit of interior --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hello, everyone. Today, I would like to introduce my new moc in progress (and the first to post here). It's Mercedes AMG GT R. (in 1:8, with porsche wheels&Tires) (From https://www.autoevolution.com/news/black-mercedes-amg-gt-r-does-insane-nurburgring-passes-110677.html) I'm planning to make it in black, as 3x11 curved black panels are available now. If amg gtr convertible model comes out, I want to try the convertible mechanism, too. My current status is only up to the drivetrain (engine&gearbox) And this is it. It's a 8 speed gearbox, with D-N-R which I built by myself. At first, I was goint to use charbel's 8 speed gearbox, which is awesome, but soon found out that the gear ratios aren't realistic (the last gear is 45 times faster than the first gear.) This gearbox is also combination of a common 4 speed gearbox and 2 speed gearbox, but different in the fact that the 2 speed gearbox is shifted every 90 degrees, and the 4speed gearbox is shifted every 180 degrees. And that resulted in a realitic gear ratio... in which the last gear is 6.25 times faster than the first gear. The hardest part was the mechanism to make one shift in the 4 speed gearbox while the paddel shift (which is not built yet) is shifted twice. The mechanism is here: Here's the sifting video: Under the chassis, you can see the D-N-R selector, which the gearstick to shift it is not built yet. As I only have times on Sunday afternoons, the progress will be very slow, but I will finish it sometime, so don't be angry even if the progress is slow. Comments are welcome, and advices are also welcome. Thanks. Oh, I missed some explanations on the gearbox. The 4 speed gearbox is just the regular one, with 1:1 to 1:5, and the 2 speed gearbox is 1:1 to 1:1.25 which doesn't work yet as currently I don't have any chains. The chains are also linked to reverse gear.
  21. before i build my battlebot i decided to make a special project, namely: a 4ws supercar with suspension and drive to rear axles the steering works great Now uses gear rack in rear Servo rear geared down 300% Motors have a 3:1 gear ratio New version updated full gallery at http://bricksafe.com/pages/aventador2014/4ws# hope this will be usefull for all Aventador
  22. Welcome everybody :) Today I’d like to present my new MOC, which was built especially for a contest on LugPol. Fiat 126p Specifications Scale 1:8 Length 51s / width 23s / height 19s (41/18/15 cm) Weight: 2040 g Independent suspension Rear wheel drive RWD 4-speed sequential gearbox AAA Battery Box 88880 Functions Driving (RC) Steering (Servo) Changing gears (L) Front LED lights (switch) R2 dummy Working steering wheel Opened bonnet and trunk Opened doors with lock History I started the building of the model at the beginning of the December, to the Christmas I built chassis, later I created the body. Because of creating the Fiat, I canceled my previous project – Mercedes SLS, becuse it wouldn't fit in the rules of the competition. If you don't know, how the original car looks like, here are the pictures. Drivetrain Fiat is driven by single RC motor. The gearbox is based on Sheepo's one from Veyron. Gearbox ratio: I 5:1 II 3:1 III 1,67:1 IV 1:1 To change gears I used 1 L motor. The ratio is 8:1 (worm gear). Fiat is a bit slow, because at the beginning I didn't want to exceed 1,5 kg of weight, and I hadn't got enough time to improve gear ratio or use 2 Xls. Steering For steering I used servo motor, which propel the gear rack 1x7 with ratio 1,67:1. Suspension The front and rear suspension is independent. I tried to make the rear like the real one, what you can see in the picture. Some photos Gallery