Eurobricks Knights
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About Duq

  • Birthday April 15

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  1. Have you tried searching these forums?
  2. That's fixing the symptom, not the cause. Easiest solution for you though, not being the parent of the little brat. Long term solution should be teaching the kid what he or she can and cannot smash. Parents often amaze me at events and rarely in a good way. Some tell the kids they can't touch things and then pick up a car or train themselves, some happily watch as their kids play with minifigs on the display, try and grab or derail trains, and some parents dump the kids at the Lego display and don't care what they do at all.
  3. Can't help you with shipping to the US. I've just bought the instructions and stickers for the class 99 and built it from my collection plus a little Bricklink. I have to say I found them most helpful and that little steam engine is a joy to build.
  4. Agree with Alco. As for the wheel configuration you mentioned, fixed leading axle and then four drivers with only one flanged, I don't think that will work. You'll probably find that the distance between the fixed & flanged axles is too long. The leading axle needs to pivot, then you can have two of the driver axles with flanged wheels. Which two works best is a matter of trial and error. On my BR 65 I have a similar configuration (but with a trailing bogie at the back). I have the axles close together with the flanged wheels on the first and last axle. It just about works but is not reliable on points so I would suggest flanged wheels on the 2nd & 4th or 1st and 3rd axle.
  5. As PeteM said, it's just how Lego runs their themes. Every 3 years you'll see a new wave of City Fire sets, every 3 years there's a Police wave, and every 4 years there's a new freight/cargo train, a passenger train and a station. Unfortunately those passenger trains tend to be the high-speed variety with big single-mold fronts. My favourit passenger train from recent years is 7938 from 2010, a nice commuter train with a brick-build front. Anyway, expect another bundle of three City Train sets next year.
  6. That's a problem with parenting, not with your shelf. From my experience that's an absolute non-issue. Unless you're putting kilo's of weight in your trains and even then I'd be more worried about the wheels than the axles.
  7. Don't forget SBrick (and possibly PFx Brick in the not too distant future) as an alternative to the PF Receiver.
  8. If by signs you mean signals that actually make a train stop, that can't be done with PF unfortunately...
  9. I hope you're good with tools and soldering... Running multiple trains on the same loop while controlling them separately is not possible. If you want that you'll need to invest in a DCC system and build DCC units into your train motors. If you want to use RC control with 9V power from the track you could modify a 9V motor to work as power pickup or make your own metal wheel sets for power pickup. Either way is going to take a good bit of work.
  10. Hi DEAD1974, Quite the username... This is one of the recurring questions about Lego trains. The consensus is: if you have seriously deep pockets then by all means, get into 9V. Otherwise don't bother and use Power Functions. 9V track is expensive and that's likely to get worse with time. 9V train motors are expensive and are getting more rare - the electric motors inside do not have eternal life. 9V is expensive now and will only get worse. 12V has the nostalgia factor and the remote control switches and signals. Unfortunately it has the problems of 9V but worse and on top of that the track is fragile (the clips that hold the rails to the sleepers tend to break).
  11. He's not joking. I'm guessing you don't have children? Oh, and you know the great thing with Lego? You can put the train back together after the crash! :-P
  12. There isn't "such a market" for wider curves. The ME Models Kickstarter project had 260 backers. The absolute minimum run for Lego to produce a set is 10.000. And that's using existing elements. To justify creating a new mold they would have to sell even more than that. So I'm not surprised Lego aren't making other track geometry pieces. Unfortunately.
  13. @Chromeknight It's based on this: Motorised points (partially buried) by Mike Pianta, on Flickr Which in turn is based this: PF points motor by Duq, on Flickr
  14. Oops... Thanks. I'll see if I can post a picture of the roof sections. Thank you! You can't really see it in these pictures but the entire layout is on MILS-based sections so the track is two bricks above the baseplate. The bottom of the pits is on the baseplate.
  15. I have had an engine shed in my layouts at various times. The last one was built for the traverser I had a few years ago and because of that it had an awkward spacing of the tracks that made it tricky to include in a layout. I was also getting bored with the thing so it was time to use my Lugbulk brick-bricks and build another one. Train Shed v3 by Duq, on Flickr It has a machine workshop attached at the back: Train Shed v3 by Duq, on Flickr Which has a full interior: Train Shed v3 by Duq, on Flickr And I mean full interior: Train Shed v3 by Duq, on Flickr