Carsten Svendsen

Eurobricks Knights
  • Content Count

    616
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Carsten Svendsen

  • Birthday 06/21/1991

Spam Prevention

  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    Technic
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    Kverneland FastBale

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.youtube.com/user/Magarinefabrik

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Auckland
  • Interests
    LEGO, Computer/computer games, Scuba diving and dolphins
    And I'm an electrician by trade.

Extra

  • Country
    New Zealand
  • Special Tags 1
    https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/style_images/tags/ldraw_builder.gif
  • Special Tags 2
    https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/public/style_images/tags/technicgear2.png

Recent Profile Visitors

3587 profile views
  1. It's always been like this. The wall thickness of the frictionless pins are thinner as they need to be able to flex more. However, I don't know when this happened, but some 2L pins are too small to insert bars into if I recall correctly, and yet other times, no problem.
  2. Knowing nothing about trial trucks, but drawing from general physics and knowledge, I'd say you need your point of gravity to be about a third from the front. So divide your car in three, and put the point of gravity there.
  3. I see it\s still available on the LEGO site, but for PCs only WeDo 2.0 | Software Download | LEGO® Education Also, you can just search for "wedo 2.0 apk" and you'll find some sites distributing the software for your phone there Download WeDo 2.0 LEGO® Education APKs for Android - APKMirror It's not that hard to find.
  4. Oh, I understand now. The ridges on the 1L bush is the same as the ridges on the axle joiners. But, using this method, now your gearbox is not stable, and will be unable to transmit any torque at all.
  5. I don't have access to LEGO right now, but I'm imagining a simple lever mecahnism, kinda like this. Just try out a few different options
  6. Technically correct, but it also depends on how much torque he wants to put the load under before the clutch gear slips.
  7. Maybe it would be enough to power the middle wheels on such a small model. I'm thinking you could maybe just use gears and chains to go from the wheel to the chassis. I don't know what's inside the body, but it seems like it's just hollow space.
  8. See how it's been used in 8466 for instance: Page 39 +/- a few pages lego.com/cdn/product-assets/product.bi.core.pdf/4164096.pdf
  9. Anti-virus software is so last decade. Don't have it on your computer and don't click anything on sketchy sites. Adblock is all you need. Just read through it, and without the device in my hand, I find step 6 fairly confusing, maybe some pictures would help tremendously
  10. I love to see complicated mechanisms and try to figure out how they work from a photo. I posted similar photos of my Fastbale MOC knowing exactly how it works. However, now that I see it from another perspective, nothing makes sense , so really, a video is the only way to explain anything, I've learned (just now) Good to know for the future. Also yes, universal joints have a ton of slack and they don't rotate evenly, gears have much less slack and the CV joints rotate evenly, so it's a good combination.
  11. Ah. I see now. This is so much better. It could actually work. Okay, so maybe I haven't given up all hope yet. I'd still have to change out all of the gears that have slipped from rounded edges though. It's quite an operation. By the time I get back to my LEGO and this creation, I think I'll try it out. For now though, I am currently doing some scuba diving for an unknown period of time. At least 3 months, hopefully a year.
  12. I bought some White lithium grease for this very purpose, however I decided not to use it, as the problem was not friction after all. The rotating parts are getting caught on the brick arches on the long black plate, and also getting caught between the rotating disc part and the liftarms going across. The tolerances are simply too small. That is a good point, but would however, destroy the looks of the creation. I think you should be able to see in the video on the backside, that there are no gears going the whole long way. Everything is geared down continously as you go from the fast end to the slow end. So there's a lot of gear slipping as well. I do remember seing this video though, thanks for bringing it back to my attention :)
  13. Hello everyone I haven't posted a new MOC in a long time, mainly because I haven't had the interest lately. This thing has been with me for years now, trying to get it to work, and it is one of those projects that causes so many headaches and will never work properly, no matter what you do. So this video is the result of straight up agony, and I do not think I'll be revisiting this again. I haven't disassembled it because I hadn't got the time before putting all my LEGO in storage for a few years. So "enjoy" my failure See a few photos here But maybe let me tell a bit about this contraption as if it had worked alright: The first challenge was to figure out a soutable gear ratio. I chose to make the 2nd fastest (orange) the 1:1 gearing from the motor as then the slowest was still able to spin somewhat comfortably. The size of the circles and spacings are all a function of the LEGO brick arches and discs. To get the arms in the right location, I had to offset them by 0.5 studs, which was easy enough with some 4-pin connectors with axle hole. Then the challenging bit - designing the gear ratios to also fit inside the box. It looked like there was a lot of room, but I had to use many more gears than what I thought, so this wasn't so easy either. Also here, I had to space them by 0.5 studs. I had initially only planned to power the red (the fast) ends which would be 3 motors, but there was just no power at the slow end when I did this, so back to the drawing board. I then decided to power each side from either end, which meant I had to add gearing in the small corners - 1:1 for one end, and 1:5 on the other, in some cases. The slow end was the hardest to figure out and need quite a few more gears. Now for the fun part, to see if it works! Turn on the motors and yup, everything is running at a different speed, as I expected. This is not good, as the axles will keep twisting more and more, or gears will skip. So I had to figure out a solution to sync them up. I went with Power Up, and no matter what I did, there was no way to sync them up in software. I had to write my own code, and I'm not good enough for that. It would work sometimes, but mostly just with 3 motors for some reason. So in the very end, I decided to link them up physically, but this was a challenge in itself. They are long distances, what's the best way? I ended up with the ol' steam engine solution and just multiplied that by 4. And it works great! As long as nothing is stalled anywhere, because then gears will tick over and over. In the video, you can hear this, and it's probably because those gears already need a replacement. But it is so darn hard to do. Lastly, decoration - this was already decided on well before I was halfway through with the project. It had to bricks, because of the arches. Building the long panels was easy, but building the corners took some more skill. Not too much it turns out - I looked for help here in Eurobricks and no one would help. What seems simple to you, may not be simple for me. Anyway, I ended up with some lightsabers underneath and some clips to hold the corners in place. They aren't perfect, but I guess nothing in life ever is. Also the large panels move around all the time, I think the tolerances on those arches aren't actually perfectly round, they seem kind of oval. What went wrong with the demonstration though, was that a CV joint on the backside had popped out, and so the whole left side of it wasn't spinning to begin with, thus being the source of most of the issues shown. And then I also only bought a pack of 24 marker pens, when I needed 25, luckily I had one extra lying around that fit the 1x1 LEGO dimensions. And acrylic is not cheap! 2 sheets of 0.3mm each. But I guess that's nothing compared to all of the black panels, liftarms and plates and bricks that I had to buy. Failure all around. If anything it was a good learning experience.
  14. I understand what this is and I vividly remember this post. However, what constitutes an incredible MOC worthy of HOF ? So many factors and decisions, many people will get jealous. I understand why it hasn't been maintained. This is not what I'm looking for though, which you would understand if you read the conversation going on above.
  15. I'm just gonna bump this topic for the mods @Jim @Milan