Lazarus

Hello All. this has likly been asked before but if i could get an easy yay or nay :-P All my PF trains have all been converted to 9v, i bought the locos of bricklink with out PF to save the cash. I prefer 9v for myself, the battrys just put me off. One day i might change over but for now i am happy. First i want to use 61930c01 Black Electric, Light Unit Power Functions with Black PF Connector Lead Can this just be plugged onto the top of the 9v motor and away we go. Is is not all just 9v. Also can i do this. i may need to reiwre the PF terminal to make it the same as the 9v one. Idea is to get the 9v power from the old 9v motor and make it run. This is just a cheaper idead to run more than one motor.

Hello All. Looking at replacing my 9v controllers with the older 12v. I was told from one of the guys at my lego club that they have a higher amp and as long as you dont run it at max they run the 9v motors very well, Also gives toy more control as you move up the speed steps. I was doing a bit of googling and found these also had come AC and DC sockets on them what are not track power and for accessory very much like a DC model train controller. So what i am keen to find out - Is the a AC/DC socket on these (for accessory's) - If so what Amps run though these. End goal is to use these 12v controllers to power my remote switches and my locos.

Nice model I would love to have a copy to make and have it run on lego Gauge track. 7wide is the best for detail i think it is hard but looks best. I have also been on this Loco IRL and its sisters they are nice big locos best we sort of have in little NZ. They still cant beat a A4 in my hart for the King of steam.

Yes a 4.5v power source is able to run a 9v PF receiver, I have tried and tested this in my Duplo trains 3x 1.5v AAA battery's. Works no worse as in the speed of the train.

@ Coster What you have there is what i did just not as clean, i would pay for what u have there instantly. I use copper model train bushes that push onto the back of the 0 scale wheel, both items are designed to do this so i dont worry about contact. I was thinking of running a Capacitor but after running i had not need, if running a Receiver or DCC i would recommend a Cap but if just running AC no issues.

I have mashed together my own ones from this design and others and a bit of my history with model trains. My goal was to run the power pickups direct to a PF motor to remove the need of 9v motors. I Ran my prototype at our annual show whats about 24hrs of running and it went ok i would say about 90% successful. I was running it in the Red passenger train, i found two faults what are not a big deal. 1. train could do with some more weight over the power bogey to try and more friction to the power wheels. 2. I need to reduce the friction created by the stock lego wheel holder this is due to the width of the power wheels are more than the plastic lego wheel. Nothing huge to fix just a bit of sanding and some fish weights. but the concept does work for what i have planned.

Very good work, would love to send me pics on how to do this :-) still not got around to doing my A4 still only in LDD i think i sent you the plans like 2 years ago now lol.

I use a setup close to Rail Co But i use bushes to take the power direct from the wheel and not from the bar i isolate the bar so i can pickup power from both sides on a single bogie. but with only a single wheel set running it does lose contact as the train moves. to run this idea well you need to have two wheel sets just like the 9v motor to maximize the contact on the rail. But other than that this is the next step to running 9v in 2016 with the decline in 9v motors around and the price.

Hello All. A lot of you might have seen a few of my MOCs around the place of the past 6 months and i have had a lot of nice feed back. Due to all this and my really enjoying designing lego at the moment and the huge smile if give my son when he see a box come in the mail. "Daddy Daddy lego is here, i want to play lego". Best get the most of it while he is still young before he just starts thinking about girls. Any ways, lego has ended up being my fillin train hobby till i can buy a bigger house and move back to my N Scale trains and start a new layout i have been thinking of for years. Yes this is not a cheap fill in and noor does it take up little space but the plus to lego is i can make it very modular and i dont need to worry much about wiring so i can have it all packed and staked in boxes to save space. Onto the layout, this is one of three mayjoy sections on my overall layout. Its not the biggest lego layout around but i am putting the extra effort into detail. This section took my about 3 months to make in LDD and about 4-5 months to order the 5000 parts in this section. Over all the layout is totaling about 25000 bricks. I am trying to make this just like i would make a real train layout, keeping the detail where it should be and trying to have as little flat areas as posbile. I am deviding the lager sections into 4 base boards what is a 510cm square at a later stage transport case with be made to hold upto about 4 of these sections so i can drive them to shows. Below is my LDD image of the 1/3 of the layout and below that is what i am upto. Enjoy Matthew

Nice try, i have also been on this loco not bad runners and they dont get much bigger than this in little NZ. Wwould love to get the plans off you for my lego shows in NZ.

euro bricks changed image types accepted also, i used imageshack for these and not Brickshelf. But this layout is now been pulled apart and moving onto bigger and larger train layout.

Loving this years batch getting funky, wonder when they will stop the series, I have over 120 mixcels now its getting a bit mad.

Question Guys, In nz we still dont have these two sets and the Library i can also see only limited countries have them for sale on Brick link. Are these parts of a 2nd wave or only limited release.

about 48us each now, i bought some old sets that had them in, still cost a bit but i got 4 tails for about 60usd.

Just finished mine, cost i think around 700nz with shipping and stuff to make, I kept to the original parts coz i am crazy. I have had issues with the feet poping apart, I put a black 1x3tile on the side to stop the seperashion. As i will be transporting this i dont want it to keep dothing this and at some point i may need to glue these. but the rest of the body seams firm.

Gareth I think u still have my plans around for the A4, mine is only 4 wide at the nose out to 5.5 wide boiler on a 7 wide loco. As shown

Hello All. I have not posted much over the last 6-12 months, been busy sorting though all my Lego and its taken a long time. But in the last week I have finished my sorting and managed to dig into a small side project I have had planned since these sets came out. Build is complete I might add some minor touch ups but little. I just have some more wood work to complete and thats about it. Enjoy

Ya sorry about Pics, Iphones are no good. I will take some more when I finish the wood and backgound. Thanks for the good feedback :-)

book was ordered before xmas can wait to read it.

height vs Length is the issue i see with the FS, it needs to be 20% longer at least to make the model look even.

Cant really improve that much on the layout due to the size, It anything i would say make a tunnel somewhere.

I have been going though ideas, and this is about where i was at. I have a drill press that i bought that i will drill a 2mm hole into code 250 rail and then screw a 2mmx4mm screw from the underside of a normal 2x8 plate with some studs removed. This will take me longer than some of the other ways but should give me a more robust track and look more clean. I am just waiting on finance now so i can order some rail, most of my money has been going into buying tools (benchgrinder, drillpress, track bender).

Ok the image with the blue arrows i though was the internal motor you had, this is the streight swap one. The motor grinding is the hard part, i do it with a dremel. you can try with a knife but the plastic is quite hard. but you could always go the way of buying new 9v motors but i dont have that sort of cash and find ways to save money. No i just buy busted 9v motors and fix them.

wow nice work, I think i need to test this idea before i jump into my code 250 rail making. I have ample PF track around i can mess up and also code 100 HO track will make up a jig to cut the slot out. But I would love these to me in production in the next 6-12 months as it would save me heaps of time on making my own stuff. I have still not bought any ME rails due to there still being no 9v there and have been waiting and waiting for it to come. This idea might be able to short cut it.

Go though some of my old threds or my youtube account and I have a walkthough on replacing the internal motors. Good news from the look of the internal motor you have the rare 9v version (from my research this is the my own train replacment motor that came out just before 9v was killed). This is really good for fixing, that internal motor is a streight swap out for the PF internal motor, not much messing need just solering 2 wires back on. From what you are saying the fault is removing the thermostat will only help maybe buy for a few more mins run time. the issue is the internal bushes on the internal motor a very common fault and only can be fix by the above. - Some of the comment from above are a little untrue. - Both versions of the 9v motor can be fixed with a PF motor (i have 12 of the common type and 1 MoT one all had the internals replaced) - One just needs work but it is still a very easy job to fix.