Wonderpants

Eurobricks Vassals
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About Wonderpants

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  1. UCS AT-AT? Only thing that hasn't been done and would be large enough to merit a high price.
  2. I took the plunge and coughed up a huge sum for a proper boxed Falcon shortly before Xmas. Now I've just gotta decide whether this is a valid rumour and I need to sell it on after just a few weeks while prices are still high...
  3. UCS Ewok village, naboo starfighter, clone wars Y-wing?
  4. Thanks all!
  5. If anyone's done this, is it cheaper than buying a complete set? Apparently the wheels for the engines are expensive, but are there any other rare parts to watch out for?
  6. Disappointed that the snowspeeder has been put back. 10188 has been around forever and only just discontinued, so why a new DS already, and a chance to get the snowspeeder at a reasonable price would have been nice.
  7. Most of the designs I've seen seem to be for torso fronts only, and only a few for backs as well, with no side prints. Is this typical, as I'm looking to design a striped dress decal, and wonder if it would look a bit odd to have the stripes stop suddenly
  8. - UCS imperial shuttle. Hardly looks like a Lego model, it's so smooth. - UCS Falcon. Brought a nearly complete bricklinked one for a good price, but keep looking for a proper one at a good price despite the extra cost. - UCS X-wing 10240. Hey, it's the X-wing! (And a simple nose mod makes it look even better) - A-wing 75003. The most accurate of all the system Rebel fighters, and looks great next to the Falcon and SHuttle. If only Lego made thr B/X/Y-wing to a similar standard..
  9. Nice work, I recently brinklinked the at-st and was thinking about modding an Interior but you've beaten me to it. Unless you want to wait to see what comes out in 2016, with the rumours of a new Death Star. I'm thinking that it'll be the DS2 and a display piece rather than a play set, as releasing something very similar to 10188 right after discontinuing it might get a lot of backlash.
  10. For anyone who's done this, does the skirt tend to cut cleanly and not tear, and is the new hem likely to fray or look obviously cut? TIA
  11. Now you mention it....
  12. I meant to start trying to give the Falcon an interior and improve the B-wing cockpit, but after looking around, people have already done far better jobs on these than I could. So after looking around and having finished the stock Slave 1 recently, the choice was obvious, since no one seems to have done any mods on it yet. This was made more complicated by trying to create a plausible layout for a ship that switches from horizontal to vertical flying, which brings up all sorts of practical problems when you sit down and think about it, and in the end, I just fudged a lot of it. The outside is largely the same, but the internal frame has been adjusted to allow more space, a flat floor added, the hull panels now have different attachment points and opening sections to allow access to the interior, the missile launcher and hidden blaster cannons have been concealed on the inside, two prisoner cells have been added, a small sleeping platform added above them, the door now swings open right at the top rather than the second stud down, and the cockpit reworked to make it easier for boba fett to get into the cockpit. This is still not quite finished (a minifig will barely fit between the closed hull panels and prison cell bars, for example, and I want to close up some of the gaps in the hull) but all the major work is done.
  13. Save up for the real dish or try a brick built version like the one here? http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=107215&st=25
  14. I brought a largely set off bricklink for a good price fairly recently (just missing the grey rigging, radar dish, and obviously the manual, figures, box, and plaque). I'm toying with upgrading to the real McCoy though. Is it worth paying a huge premium for the above missing parts to say I have an authentic Falcon, especially since the box will mainly be a space hog?
  15. Thanks all :) These are pretty simple mods. I moved the technic beams supporting the arms that the b-wing sits on up two holes, and took off the 1x8 flat plates below the engine pod, as they pull the front apart to create the gap. You could probably replace them with a 1x2 and 1x6 smooth piece if you wanted. The 1x4 flat plates above the engine pod can also be removed, although it doesn't solve the gap problem. Instead, you may need to use a pair of 2x6 plates with holes through in place of the regular 2x6 plates, and some 2x2 round plates, with a 2x technic axle to hold them together, as shown below (at some point I'll swap out the white and maybe the black pieces for grey)