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About Marxpek

  • Birthday 10/01/84

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    Lego Technic, Lego RC, Lego MOC, Lego speed record


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    The Netherlands
  1. wasn't looking for overheating, more looking for the true capacity 2000, mah seems a straight up lie looking at what is on the market.
  2. Amazed by that battery! totally off topic in the meanwhile but..good test, you can clearly see the other motors slowing down when you stall the buggy motor and them speeding up again once the resistor fully kicks in. how long can you run this rig on the battery? 2 minutes? :D (since you put this up on your main youtube channel, maybe mention you removed the thermal protection on the battery box)
  3. I did a fast test without any video, within 2 seconds of stalling a xl motor it kicks in and it seems weak driving it (battery isn't new either), it kicks on a buggy motor almost instantly with some load (a wheel and a finger lightly touching it) the protection is obviously on a low current setting, makes sense since it was made for small lights and sirens and the monorail motor, not the most power consuming stuff. i let me know if you want me to try anything else.
  4. an absolute fact: for my personal speed record attempts it means: build something that is built with only Lego, the Lego way. I will try to do this later today, maybe @LXF can beat me to it ;)
  5. Compared to the LED's they do, but it is still a tiny light, and the wires indeed are important, the old non glossy type cracks easily now after all these years, NEVER use them with buggy motors, or just never use em at all, they will short out someday. I would love to see another test, curious about the capabilities, but maybe try other tests with multiple XL or L motor, just not to risk the buggy motors, since it did get hot. Either way i am already impressed by the capabilities of these batteries, just not interested in the 8.4volts, do they make the 9.6v version aswell? (rarely seen but they do exist)
  6. @LegoTT Don't forget the motors are protected for overheating as well, in theory this should not be able to melt any wires or do any damage (until you connect something wrong) the RC unit delivers this (and more) power over the same wire without problem. But by these rules of using a bush to block the old thermal resistors, you could also bypass the thermistor in a new battery box by twisting up the legs and put a Lego rubber band on it (or something similar) and then say: it is 100% Lego. to me it is all cheating, fine to do it for a private moc or something. but not in contests or in my case: speed records.
  7. @LXF I oversaw something here... your battery is protected itself... it has probably the same protection built it... and that might kick in here and still provide enough power for the lights, still not prooving anything, all those damn safety-precautions ;D maybe attach a other motor which you do not stall in stead of the lights? that should draw alot more power then the lights (as far as i know the thermistor never really full breaks the circuit just raises the resistance a lot, but correct me if im wrong)
  8. This is creative, but but I do not agree, you are placing a part somewhere that was never intended to have any parts, even worse, you are blocking a safety measure, especially designed for that purpose, so i do not consider that 100% Lego (solutions), since TLG will never approve this.
  9. It doesn't not need a lot of current to burn your fingers ;) can you attach a wheel or something to the output? when you can trip the thermistor inside the buggy motor that would mean the battery delivers enough power. (but you will need a shunted box, but since you suggested it, you probably have one) These 2 do not really combine ;D
  10. @TechnicSummse and of course removing thermistors is cheating, but i still do not believe 9v batteries can power a buggy motor..
  11. What is the discharge rate on these? they say "high drain" but how high is that? Compared to a normal 9V battery anything over 200mA discharge I consider highh, but a 1000mA is not nearly high enough for a buggy motor. But when i look at the "normal charging time" on the battery that is pretty slow, and this normally correlates to the discharge rates. does it give a fast charging time for it and a C-rating? can it trip a thermal resistor when stalling a motor? Of course you are still only getting 8.4 volts from them, lowering the speed on the motor and also lowering the current being drawn. @LXF and somewhere you are being scammed with the info they provide, there is no way in hell this battery can contain 2000Mah @ 8.4v, most (trusted) battery brands have a value of 150mah up to a maximum of 500mah, my guess is they did some fancy numberwork here and you actually have a 285mAh battery at 8.4v. They went creative with numbers and most likely did something like this: 7 cells @ 1.2v each with 285mah = (7x285mah) 2000mah.. Did you ever do some measurements on these? it is highly unlikely that they will contain the same energy as a battery box filled with rechargeable AA batteries of the same is just a size thing..
  12. this is not how a thermistor works, it has a certain setting, lets say a 1 amp thermistor will pass through any current up to 1 amp, if you go over that it will kick in within a second or so, but if you pass 500mA it will never kick in, a thermistor should always kick in within a few seconds of overload to prevent melting wires and shorting/burning wires. The previous best (tested) batterybox can pass 800mA, will trip the thermistor within a few seconds when attaching a buggy motor with some load, there are small differences in the thermistors production making some go to 900 mA and others to 700mA. The newer AA batterybox with the brighter green led, has a higher setting then 800mA, but this has not been tested for exact data yet (as far as i know), but from my own experience: one new batterybox can still not fully power a buggy motor, there are reasons the buggy motor was discontinued, this is one..
  13. Hey @TechnicSummse welcome here ;) this box has one of the worst thermal protectors around (kicks in very fast), this has a older version of the thermal protection, a plate that bends when hot, breaking contact. Since i already know what you want to do here: i will say it again, buggy motors can ONLY be powered fully by the rc-unit, nothing else can bring out their full potential (unless you cheat with the thermal protectors) not even the battery boxes that came with the buggy motor expansion pack or the yellow batterybox (like on 8421) can handle the current needed. Besides that: 9 volt batteries that can deliver that kind of current are rare, since they are moslty made for low power consumption.
  14. My first word upon opening this topic: "Whaaat!?" my second word: "Wow!" Welcome here, that is one hell of an introduction ;D
  15. It really doesn't, keep in mind that the action cam is low to the ground so it looks a lot faster, with the action cam on it it becomes unstable, so i never went over 25km/h with it attached, it takes about 150-170 meter before it reaches top speed with the gps computer on. it is a bit over-engineered to prevent destruction with every crash so it is a bit on the heavy side. Sometimes it already gives me troubles with the thermistors in the motors, needing them to cool down. what exactly do you mean by this? how fast the wheel could spin in theory? (Philo's info again) fast output= 1700 rpm geared up 2,5x= 4250 rpm without load. 107mm diameter wheel: theorectial speed: 84,7 km/h... But with 35km/h it should be something like 1740 rpm that was actually reached. Hmm, i doubt i reached the roof on this, i went about this the raw power way. the next build will be more about finesse and lightweight construction, risking total destruction upon the inevitable crashes.. Gotta keep pushing further ;) first with more finesse, or maybe later ill just add more motors :D.