Eurobricks Citizen
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About Marxpek

  • Birthday 10/01/84

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    Lego Technic, Lego RC, Lego MOC, Lego speed record


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    The Netherlands
  1. I have shunted a battery box to feed this speedy tracked racer with 2 buggy motors, besides that no confessions (however i already said i shunted it in the video, so does that count as a confession?) please do not mind the video quality... 2nd (out of only 6) video i made and i'm still trying to improve...but i had a lot of fun with this tracked racer and i think shunting the box for it was worth it.
  2. 2x IR-receiver plus 2 remotes is similar to what 1 s-brick can do (assuming you already own a smartphone), but costs are lower with the s-brick and it opens up more options. A buwizz would be even better since you will have a rechargeable battery built in with even more options. The s-brick/buwizz will also allow you to control more than 8 motors (ir only has 4x dual channel) If i would not have any controllers yet i would pick a buwizz, but i own several ir- receivers and 2 s-bricks, so i'll stick with this for now. (however i will buy a buwizz one day)
  3. Fun little thing this is! Put an s-brick in it, loose the cab, and call it the next gen driver-less robotized excavator! Keep it up!
  4. I just looked it up, but it doesn't have damped shocks in it . Still a good idea though! Wups! that must have been a (very old) modification of mine then, do not even recall it using normal springs, but obviously it does ;)
  5. just recalled another set: 8432 used it to choose between 2 ride heights if i recall it right.
  6. The 8297 set used them to open the gull-wing doors, a function i always liked, since they open slowly because of the dampers.
  7. Lovely rugged look! And erm, do i see a skid steering switch mechanism with pneumatic? I really love your "i don't have a receiver, but i will make it work, attitude" good job! Curious to see your video!
  8. As far as i can see there is no caster, camber or toe in with this setup, you should really look into that, those can all help with a straight line and stability. Correct me if i'm wrong but this is just a straight setup which, sadly, does not want to go straight by itself. One thing i do not really like here is how the hubs are fixed, by the pictures you can already see the 1x2 crossplates want to come off, they should be braced better (try a 4 axle with end stop and a bush) this alone can cause issues. Why don't you try to use the rc front end? that has a extra return to center spring and a caster angle built in.
  9. I don't know if this is an option to you but maybe it is an idea, remove the linear actuators and use pneumatic there and make the car lift pneumatic as well (8285 had that). That would leave you with 4 functions left for the gearbox. Nice project good luck!
  10. Yeah but that part separate costs about 7 euros each, that 8297 set has 4, one of the reasons i only buy sets.. in the end its a way better deal.
  11. none of the sets that contain those available used somewhere near maybe? 8297 is a fairly common and not too expensive set used, although some of the other set containing them also contain wishbones i think.
  12. That is less then i would have guessed, but maybe wait and design first (maybe you can work in LDD?) you might need more parts, place a bigger order and save on shipping, don't rush into it. Btw: i never order parts separately, if i need parts i try to find sets that contain them and try to buy that, gives a lot more bang for your buck with all the extra parts, just takes a bit longer most of the time (i try to buy used item first)
  13. The wishbones are great i guess, but i guess they are not cheap or easy to come by (i'm guessing) And considering the amount of parts i have destroyed with crashes at 20km/h+ i personally would not use them, i broke several 7L lift arms in the steering unit (and wheels.. and axles.. and a hand full of pins...) with crashes and to me they seem a lot more rigid than the wishbones, it's a great solution but not if you have the slightest chance of crashing, and at 20 km/h outside a small rock could cause that... I do not own these wishbones so i cannot tell you for sure, maybe anyone else has them and want to test their breaking strength compared to a 7L lift arm? I guess not ;)
  14. At high speeds this is nearly impossible to avoid, Lego always has some play in the system and Lego was not built to go over 20 km/h (maybe the old dirt crusher rc car, but besides that nothing that i know of) even on my first record car without steering i always had a minor deviation of the route i set out, sometimes left, sometimes right, (this had no caster camber or toe in, just a axle with wheels), with speed all forces increase exponentially and connections can get loose easily. Be sure to check every connection in the car before each run to be sure, but over a 100m run i always had at least 3m of deviation ( best run was about 140m with a deviation of about 4m, which i considered a "near perfect run" they always end with a crash though :D)
  15. @rkkm here are some pictures of my steering unit built on the RC front end. This simple but effective setup did nearly 29 km/h as you saw in my video however don't expect to be able to make a fast turn when going over 20 km/h you WILL flip your car, this was made for minor steering corrections at high speeds, but it can still be somewhat nimble at lower speeds. It has positive camber, negative caster and toe-in set wheels, all to those make your car want to go straight when used correctly. But i understand you do not have the 9L links, but there is always a way! But what exactly is your goal here? make a car fun and fast to drive? or will you try to break my record? Your goals should determine your setup i think. If you want a a car for pure speed, go with a setup similar to mine, i'm sure it can be improved! But if you want a fun car to drive, pick another setup, maybe one with suspension. And by building/trying yourself, you will learn the most! of course we are happy to help out here for tips and info!