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About McWaffel

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    Lego Trains and Layouts


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  1. Who cares what others think? When people come to my place and see my Lego railroad they obviously first look at it as a toy (because that's what it ultimately is) but after a minute or two they realize that it's more than just a toy, especially thanks to all the modifications and automation and customization I'm doing which you can clearly see. And they become really fascinated by it. Track switch motors, custom lighting, fine voltage control, signaling... all this is "real model railroading".
  2. The cab lights are super cool! I'm interested in the technical details of this. How did you fit the LEDs? What size LEDs are you using? What's your power supply?
  3. Great! I understand when people build 7, 8 or 9 wide trains, but as you pointed out yourself most of our stuff is 6 wide, by the very fact that that's Legos own scale. I therefore like it very much when people build great looking MOCs like this in 6 wide scale :) Well done! Does it go around corners with the 3-axle bogies?
  4. I hope it will be on sale to the end of the ear. Would be a bummer if I miss out on it.
  5. No, it hasn't:
  6. Not for the 9V headlights, no. You need to buy new power function compatible lights
  7. Wow I never thought there was a real prototype of this train! Incredible. This was the first Lego train I've seen in my life, when I was a small child. Maybe about 5-6 years old. I can still remember it clearly. I've always wanted one
  8. I like this new trend of people cramming power functions into tiny engines. Super satisfying to see this happening Great work on the drive train! Would love to see it in action
  9. Welcome to Eurobricks! Let me try to help you out here: While it's totally possible to convert most trains to power functions, I would recommend buying a new 9V motor from bricklink or ebay, as that's currently (at least in Germany) cheaper by about 15€. The 9V tracks are the same dimensions as the power function tracks. Power function trains work on both. 9V trains obviously don't run on power function track because of the lack of electricity. They can still be pulled along however. Missing pieces can also be bought on bricklink. If you're missing the cable to the yellow controller, you can just go and buy any adapter cable from any electronics store. I had to do this for my 9V as I can't find my original cable. Make sure that the power is variable. My new cable has options vor 5-15V or something like that. I tried with 9V first but ultimately stuck with 12V for the converter cable. The original puts out 10V if I remember correctly. Hope that was helpful to you
  10. Hands down the most perfect room for a Lego Layout I've ever seen. Super jelly. Great work!
  11. If I'm brutally honest, I'm kinda glad that we're probably not getting any new trains soon, because I really want the red cargo train, but I don't have money for that right now. I have to wait to the end of the year to buy it. So all fingers crossed, I can get the red cargo train and then I'm ready for new trains :D
  12. I don't have tags on them yet but I think I should definitely do that relatively soon. At least, once I'm going for the bigger layout that's definitely a must! Thanks for the tip. I'm going to have one train running fairly soon. I'm planning on getting multiple trains moving through the layout by the end of march. We'll see how it goes :D Yes, I think I'm going to write down a concept for cable management and make a data sheet where I create some sort of code and/or convention what cables do what and how they have to be labeled, so that I can identify them much easier later on. Also I know about the Arduino limitations. Ultimately I'm going to use transistors to control power supply to the signals through the Arduino from an external power supply. So I'll use the Arduino just for controls. I'm planning on about 10 blocks, which would require 25-30 main signals (depending on the amount of switches I'm going to put in) and anything from 10 to 15 secondary signals. Also I'm going to use switch motors and all sorts of sensors. I'm easily going to exceed the limitations of the board. But for this small-scale table-top-test layout I'll just stick with this for now, as that's just easier to change and debug.
  13. Well, I've been busy connecting all the sensors and soldering a power distribution board for the sensors and connecting them all up. The cable issue is really getting out of hand! Here you can see a Minifig worker installing one of the main signals onto the track :D As you can see, there's a lot of cables going everywhere. I'm running all cables along side the track for now, but they will end up beneath the table on my full layout once I got all the technical stuff sorted out. Here you can see the heart of the system, where everything comes together. The distributer board will end up inside the box at some point. It's much easier for maintenance this way. The yellow cables connect the sensors with the distribution board, red cables deliver power to the distribution board and the main signals, black cables ground the signals and green cables are for measuring the drop-out voltage of the sensors.
  14. @dr_spock Oh dear! That steam engine in between the passenger cars sure looks strange. I was thinking more towards a modified version of say the Metro Liner, where the first and last cars are fully equipped with seats and windows for passengers and only a small cabin is left for the driver, as where the engine and other electronics would be stored in a car that's somewhere in the middle of the whole train. Very similar to the Stadler GTW you posted. But more like this: So no dedicated engine compartment that would somehow obstruct passengers from going to another car. Single engine as a shared-bogie by the two center cars, shared bogie by the front and second cars. I think if all but the front bogies were shared bogies and the middle one was the powered one, push-pull trains would work like a charm. 4 Cars is also a good length for a Lego train imo.
  15. I guess that makes sense. Never thought of it this way. I'm using a variety of engines, both 9V and Power Functions motors. I used them in a consist before and as long as there's something pulling as well its all fine. Once there's only push action going on there's a significant loss in traction. The whole point of using one engine/powered bogie is to reduce cost I could just put an engine at either end if I was to go that direction. I guess ultimately I'd have to reduce the length of the trains or use a commuter train with the engine somewhere in the middle of the train instead. That'd be an interesting design too