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  1. Those new modules don’t belong to the Akiyuki Project (they are from Takanori Hashimoto and Yasuhiko Kuramata if I’m not mistaken) but they are interesting nevertheless. A new version of the GBC Train seems to be the only new stuff from Akiyuki on this occasion, let’s hope for a brand new module from him soon.
  2. Sorry to disappoint but I'm not working on it. Other stuff got in the way and I'm not sure I will ever tackle it one day.
  3. So, how good is the tubing from ? Is it a good match for Lego one ?
  4. Excellent as always, Blackbird, although it's strange that Light Aqua turned into Dark Red on your render (spot #30). Do you consider building it one day? It's worth it!
  5. You will find it here, in bsx (xml) format :
  6. I have been interested in this one for a long time, I have got the material (including the EV3 to 9V cables) and I think I clearly understand how it works, but some of the crucial details are kept hidden from view. There are simply not enough pictures on Akiyuki's blog for me to be able to build this module as faithfully as I'd like to. Good luck finishing the Ball Cleaner!
  7. Hi everyone, In the following link you will find complete building instructions for Berthil's beautiful Rainbow wave GBC module: Working with some additional pictures from Berthil, I have been able to replicate faithfully his model. Nevertheless, I have made him some suggestions to improve the build and the module itself and he agreed upon them, so here is the list of what I changed to his design: - I designed a different and much simplified layout for the input ramp before the belt that accommodates more balls than Berthil's original design. Moreover, the original version included an agitator mechanism that necessitated some precise tuning. The agitator is no longer present in this version so building this part is easier. - I designed a stronger mount for the belt drive axle to avoid any possible skipping at that point that would lead to desynchronisation between the belt and the wave. - And finally I proposed some adjustments to the main structure to make it possible to easily split the model in two parts: inbox and wave. I did it mainly to provide modular easier-to-read instructions, but in the end it also improves transportation and storage of this very long (90 cm!) module. Most of the colors used on the Rainbow Wave are still in use by Lego today but there are not enough solid colors in the current palette to fill the 38 spots. Moreover, two colors (Olive Green and Sand Blue) don't fit well with others and have been left aside, so 3 out-of-production colors have been brought in to fill the remaining spots. Anyway, picking good-looking colors to use is highly subjective, so feel free to use any color you like! Once the build is finished, you must tune in the belt and the wave precisely. Shift the 8t gear (the one directly out of the XL motor) on its axle to disengage the 24t and adjust the belt. In the end your module should work like this: Finally I would like to thank Berthil who has been very supportive of my work on his module from the beginning and I wish him well for his TV show, his modules really deserve the attention they get. Laurent
  8. You can easily test both programs whichever configuration you choose. If you want to use Mogwai's program without the 4th EV3 motor, remove the 'D' motor block and recreate the 2 missing connections (a bit tricky when you're inexperienced with the software interface). If you want to use mine with a 4th EV3 motor, just add a 'D' motor block right at the beginning. Anyway it is most likely than neither program will be completely satisfying without some fine tuning (the two programs are similar in construction but use different power and timing values).
  9. 1 : Yes, black 2909c03 is correct (dark grey shock absorber is stronger iirc) 2 : x37, yes 3 : Yes, but ideally it should be a tad longer, like 11.5L. The lower one is longer, it might be a 12L or 13L, I don't recall. 4 : I used one 50cm (color sensor), one 35cm (large motor) and two 25cm (medium motors) 5 : I used fresh AA batteries and they didn't last very long, so a rechargeable battery is probably a better option. 6 : I tried to power the M motor with the 8528-1 cable (and a 8886 cable), and it worked but only if the EV3 program commanded a power variation (100 - 99 - 100 - 99) every second (see ). To save batteries, and because the ceaseless variation felt weird I disconnected the M motor from the EV3 Brick and used a train regulator. I did not test using an old 9V motor, which is what Akiyuki actually used. If you really want to power the spiral lift motor with the EV3 brick, it's simpler to modify the design to use another EV3 motor and modify the program as Mogwai did. 7 : that's the one I cannot answer because I borrowed the EV3 from a friend
  10. This is a fantastic module, and in many ways it is the most ‘Akiyuki’ of all non-Akiyuki GBC modules that I know of. Bravo ! @Berthil, are you planning to release building instructions for your creation? If not, I’m more than willing to have a try at it (if it’s ok for you), although, as tismabrick already said, some more pictures would be nice (input part and bottom view especially).
  11. I don't intend to at this time, imho Akiyuki bettered most of what he presents in his first video in his subsequent modules. Great ! Make instructions for it, I think most of Finn's modules deserve it.
  12. Thanks to Theo van Vroenhoven's feedback on Zig-Zag Stairs version 2, I have improved the motor attachment on this module. My first version was really a lazy job, the new one is much sturdier while using the same gears. I updated my MPD and PDF files on Bricksafe:
  13. Hello everyone, I have made instructions for Akiyuki’s Zig-zag Stairs version 2 which is seen in his layout 2012.9 video at 1’05”. As I did on Finn’s Steering Cup, I took the liberty to build the input and output parts of the module according to Akiyuki’s current standard to allow full compatibility with the others modules from the Akiyuki Project. @Blackbird, if you think I got too far and that the final result is too different from Akiyuki’s model, I should be able to strip it and get closer to its original form. I haven’t built the version 1 so I can’t compare the two, but this second version of ZZS has shorter stairs (16 studs length instead of 20) and only one crankshaft. It works very well and feels quite sturdy and reliable, although I haven’t tested it over a long period of time. Since I calculated that the crankshaft rotates at approximately 100 rpm in Akiyuki’s video, I figured I needed another 1/2 reduction on the other side of the module (which is not visible in the video anyway). I wanted a clutch so I did the same 12/24 reduction with a crude attachment for the M motor. The PDF and MPD files in my Akiyuki Project folder : And a short video:
  14. I haven't got a clue on this one!
  15. Hello everyone, I have made instructions for Finn’s Steering Cup GBC module which is also seen in Akiyuki’s 2016 Brickfest video. I took the liberty to greatly modify the input and output parts of the module by building them according to Akiyuki’s standard to allow full compatibility with the others modules from the Akiyuki Project. As a matter of fact, you will find the PDF and MPD files in the same Akiyuki Project folder on Bricksafe with my others instructions files: