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  1. You can easily test both programs whichever configuration you choose. If you want to use Mogwai's program without the 4th EV3 motor, remove the 'D' motor block and recreate the 2 missing connections (a bit tricky when you're inexperienced with the software interface). If you want to use mine with a 4th EV3 motor, just add a 'D' motor block right at the beginning. Anyway it is most likely than neither program will be completely satisfying without some fine tuning (the two programs are similar in construction but use different power and timing values).
  2. 1 : Yes, black 2909c03 is correct (dark grey shock absorber is stronger iirc) 2 : x37, yes 3 : Yes, but ideally it should be a tad longer, like 11.5L. The lower one is longer, it might be a 12L or 13L, I don't recall. 4 : I used one 50cm (color sensor), one 35cm (large motor) and two 25cm (medium motors) 5 : I used fresh AA batteries and they didn't last very long, so a rechargeable battery is probably a better option. 6 : I tried to power the M motor with the 8528-1 cable (and a 8886 cable), and it worked but only if the EV3 program commanded a power variation (100 - 99 - 100 - 99) every second (see ). To save batteries, and because the ceaseless variation felt weird I disconnected the M motor from the EV3 Brick and used a train regulator. I did not test using an old 9V motor, which is what Akiyuki actually used. If you really want to power the spiral lift motor with the EV3 brick, it's simpler to modify the design to use another EV3 motor and modify the program as Mogwai did. 7 : that's the one I cannot answer because I borrowed the EV3 from a friend
  3. This is a fantastic module, and in many ways it is the most ‘Akiyuki’ of all non-Akiyuki GBC modules that I know of. Bravo ! @Berthil, are you planning to release building instructions for your creation? If not, I’m more than willing to have a try at it (if it’s ok for you), although, as tismabrick already said, some more pictures would be nice (input part and bottom view especially).
  4. I don't intend to at this time, imho Akiyuki bettered most of what he presents in his first video in his subsequent modules. Great ! Make instructions for it, I think most of Finn's modules deserve it.
  5. Thanks to Theo van Vroenhoven's feedback on Zig-Zag Stairs version 2, I have improved the motor attachment on this module. My first version was really a lazy job, the new one is much sturdier while using the same gears. I updated my MPD and PDF files on Bricksafe:
  6. Hello everyone, I have made instructions for Akiyuki’s Zig-zag Stairs version 2 which is seen in his layout 2012.9 video at 1’05”. As I did on Finn’s Steering Cup, I took the liberty to build the input and output parts of the module according to Akiyuki’s current standard to allow full compatibility with the others modules from the Akiyuki Project. @Blackbird, if you think I got too far and that the final result is too different from Akiyuki’s model, I should be able to strip it and get closer to its original form. I haven’t built the version 1 so I can’t compare the two, but this second version of ZZS has shorter stairs (16 studs length instead of 20) and only one crankshaft. It works very well and feels quite sturdy and reliable, although I haven’t tested it over a long period of time. Since I calculated that the crankshaft rotates at approximately 100 rpm in Akiyuki’s video, I figured I needed another 1/2 reduction on the other side of the module (which is not visible in the video anyway). I wanted a clutch so I did the same 12/24 reduction with a crude attachment for the M motor. The PDF and MPD files in my Akiyuki Project folder : And a short video:
  7. I haven't got a clue on this one!
  8. Hello everyone, I have made instructions for Finn’s Steering Cup GBC module which is also seen in Akiyuki’s 2016 Brickfest video. I took the liberty to greatly modify the input and output parts of the module by building them according to Akiyuki’s standard to allow full compatibility with the others modules from the Akiyuki Project. As a matter of fact, you will find the PDF and MPD files in the same Akiyuki Project folder on Bricksafe with my others instructions files:
  9. All 13 purple ones are 12L, and the 12 black ones for the screw are 14L. Other black ones are needed of various lengths for the output ramp (1x8L, 1x11L, 2x15L, 2x17L). Some are difficult to find at those lengths but it's easy to modify the ramp to use whatever lengths you got using pins, axles, pins joiner round, etc.
  10. Mogwai, thanks for the feedback! Of course, you are right, it's a 8t gear, not a 12t, at step 23 on page 125. I have corrected the Bricksafe files (mpd and PDF) accordingly.
  11. If you're talking about the two files I provide in Bricksafe, the PDF file is draft instructions and the other file (.MPD) is the matching MLCad model.
  12. You can now find on Bricksafe my mdp file of Akiyuki’s latest masterpiece. I have also made a draft PDF with better resolution than before. Search for "Akiyuki Project" on Bricksafe to access both files. A word about Akiyuki’s Strain Wave Gearing GBC module: - although the Stepper part is the one Akiyuki used on Cycloidal Drive, I have modelled the steps a bit lighter (removing bricks and plates) to be more accurate to Akiyuki’s design. Akiyuki fixed the Stepper with frictionless pins on one side to give more play and I think it helps greatly to reduce friction from that mechanism. Using those on Cycloidal Drive too is probably a good idea. - speaking of friction, there also can be a lot of it with the double gearing around the back turntable if the 12t bevel gears are not properly synchronised. - at my first attempt at running the module, the main shaft, built with classic bricks and plates, collapsed rapidly under the load, so I used Technic bricks to rigidify it and I have kept it that way - the stopper rod must be timed properly for the module to work correctly. The module is very reliable once properly set-up. - there is a slight difference between Akiyuki’s video and his pictures with the very first part of the output slide (light bluish gray ramp is 7 studs long on pictures and 8 in the video), I have done both and in my experience the module behave the same. In the end I modelled the video version. - The rubber band is the 3x3 kind, very common in red. Finally, I have borrowed Philo’s modelling of the Type 3 Turntable from his impressive 42043 Ldraw model to use in mine. Let us know if you found some parts that you interpreted differently.
  13. I agree with Blackbird, the coupling of the additionnal switch with the unloader is a great idea and is well done. Bravo! I will publish my mpd file tomorrow, or friday at worst.
  14. While I could not do a test with 36 of these balls (32474, right?), I exchanged some on my model and did not see any change of behaviour, so it should work ok with a full set of these.
  15. Hello everyone, I have finished building an accurate replica of Akiyuki's last module to date : GBC Strain Wave Gearing. It is beautifully designed as expected from Akiyuki (although my cat is not that interested this time). A MPD file is nearly completed (I had fun with all the weird angles on this one) and I will publish it and a draft PDF this week.