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About SavaTheAggie

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  1. Thanks all! No, I'm afraid I've never been up that way. I tend to gravitate towards models that are unique in some way ("Best of" their class, unique streamlining, etc) and models that have not been built in LEGO before, or are under-represented in some way. I will be working on getting instructions made for the Yellowstone in the next few weeks to help pay for my trip to Brickworld. It's the second slowest (at top speed) of all my locomotives (faster than XL motor driven tender wheels of the Allegheny), and second strongest (the XL motors in the Allegheny can still pull more). So it's "Better" in that it can pull more than standard LEGO PF train motors, but its the design that suffers the most from uneven track. If I ever build another giant articulated, it'll be tender driven. --Tony
  2. In my opinion, and my opinion only - The Horizon Express is a brilliantly designed model of a terribly ugly train. I won a copy of the HE, but never purchased one myself. The techniques to build it are awesome, but it lives in a box in my room. --Tony
  3. I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "fire the drivers". By "Driver Driven" I mean the locomotive is powered directly through the drivers, rather than the motors in the tender pushing a dead-head locomotive. --Tony
  4. Duluth, Missabe, & Iron Range M4 Yellowstone #237 by Tony Sava, on Flickr Duluth, Missabe, & Iron Range M4 "Yellowstone" class steam locomotive #237 Full Album Of "Yellowstone" class locomotives, the DM&IR Yellowstones were the strongest built. #237 was the only locomotive retired prior to dieselization, sold for scrap after a wreck. DM&IR-237_008 by Tony Sava, on Flickr This locomotive has been built in 9-wide, and is my first successful driver-driven steam locomotive. The locomotive is powered by two Power Functions L-Motors in the boiler, and a AA battery box in the tender. DM&IR-237_015 by Tony Sava, on Flickr The cab overhangs more than I'd like, but hopefully I can keep it on ME Model curves and Grand Curves. DM&IR-237_023 by Tony Sava, on Flickr A huge, enormous thank-you to Terry Akuna for the excellent work on designing and printing the decals on the tender, cab, and road numbers on the headlights. DM&IR-237_012 by Tony Sava, on Flickr --Tony
  5. We're getting off topic, but to answer the questions - the Yellowstone may or may not find it's way into my instructions list. The Dreyfuss contains far too many ultra rare parts to ever be considered. --Tony
  6. I have finally begun building this project. So far the top of the boiler is complete and the two L motors are installed. Next I plan to finalize the wheel sets so I can better understand how the bottom of the boiler will interact with the wheels. I won't post any more updates hereuntil it's finished, but you can follow my progress on Flickr. --Tony
  7. It's in my signature, but assuming this isn't against the forum rules, here is the link: --Tony
  8. Most of my customers are in the US, though from time to time I get orders from Europe, a few from Asia. The most all-in-one set of instructions for teaching the widest array of techniques in one book is a set I can no longer sell, at least for now. My failed LEGO ideas project "The Ten Wheeler" was my "Expert level Ten Wheeler" instructions, and touches nearly all of my knowledge and experience as a train builder. I won't be able to start selling those again until the ideas project officially dies. My Northern "Daylight" instructions have a lot of good techniques, too, as does the Alco RS-2. --Tony
  9. I sell instructions to fund my hobby. It's the way I prevent the family budget from being affected by all these things I build. I choose the MOCs I have built that are either popular models, have an easy construction, or are very difficult to build but teach important techniques. I do not make instructions for anything that is too big, uses too many rare parts, or has too much hard-to-replicate detail (bent and custom cut flex tubing). I have never designed a model specifically for instructions. Always for my own enjoyment first. --Tony
  10. Thanks all. This is the work of 5 AFOLs. It took us about 6-7 hours to set up, all of us working. A typical, smaller setup will take 2-3 people about 4 hours. Teardown is much faster - we were packed up, put away, and loaded in vehicles in less than three hours - and that's pretty good for a layout this size. --Tony
  11. Texas Brick Railroad this last weekend set up its largest, most complex solo layout to date. Here are some photo highlights. Full Gallery Our biggest town to date New_Braunfels_Fall_16_046 by Tony Sava, on Flickr Overview of the entire layout New_Braunfels_Fall_16_001 by Tony Sava, on Flickr Princess Train running through the town New_Braunfels_Fall_16_013 by Tony Sava, on Flickr The forest. We had a very complex track setup, with 4 independent loops New_Braunfels_Fall_16_007 by Tony Sava, on Flickr Joe's Halloween train and Gareth's switch tower. The layout used standard LEGO curves, ME R72s, ME R88s, ME 104s, and custom curves using traditional model rails glued to plates New_Braunfels_Fall_16_010 by Tony Sava, on Flickr Return of the People's Bridge New_Braunfels_Fall_16_024 by Tony Sava, on Flickr Steve's Burn Patch New_Braunfels_Fall_16_026 by Tony Sava, on Flickr Mini MocFiller's Farm New_Braunfels_Fall_16_028 by Tony Sava, on Flickr Ed's showpiece Berkshire in front of his storage tanks and pumpjacks New_Braunfels_Fall_16_030 by Tony Sava, on Flickr Gareth's Bridge module New_Braunfels_Fall_16_031 by Tony Sava, on Flickr Michael Jackson and Thriller New_Braunfels_Fall_16_037 by Tony Sava, on Flickr New member Noah's steam engine makes its debut New_Braunfels_Fall_16_053 by Tony Sava, on Flickr A view only we could see - our layout was large enough to keep certain views hidden New_Braunfels_Fall_16_056 by Tony Sava, on Flickr And finally a video of my Daylight going through Gareth's custom switches Lego & Code 250 Mega Switches being traversed by Tony's Daylight. With Mallard in the background @ TBRR Show, New Brunfells by Gareth Ellis, on Flickr --Tony
  12. For the record I have no need of 9v. If it were me, which it isn't, I think I would have started with only plastic R104s and R88s. To be different from ME, offer a stretch goal of the plastic only Grand Curve equivalent track (R248 or whatever). Leave the R72, R54, and switches for another kick-starter, once the first got off the ground. But again, it's not me. --Tony
  13. I can say ME track not staying together under heavy, fast trains without glue is false, when give a proper foundation. My YouTube videos prove this. Yes, they tend to fall apart in transit, but in my experience hold together fine when on a flat, level surface over the course of a very busy weekend show. Flex track is worthless. Period. I would have preferred all-in-one track like your project, but at the same time ME track is easier to ballast, since I don't have to work around permanent ties. --Tony
  14. If I could have backed a loop of a single radius of track, I might have backed it. Far too expensive for 99% of LEGO hobbyists. 9v is dead. Abandon the 9v part. Without replacement motors, track power supply, and regulators, the 9v market is getting smaller and smaller. Focus on plastic track only. Save the cost. Lower the barrier to entry. Add in the 104 switches if you're worried about needing backers. --Tony
  15. With the exception of the one siding on the bottom right of the layout diagram, all of the curved track were ME models R88 and R104. The three huge curves we call "Grand Curves" and are each built with 23 pieces of standard straight track. --Tony