Jan

If you have some technic beams leftover, you could make a supporting grid underneath your baseplates. If you make it very dense, i suppose you could even use normal baseplates on top, maybe connnected tot the technic frame only on the sides. The advantage of using a grid of technic bricks could be aswell the possibility tot lock your girders to the frame, with this piece and an axle

Hi, in your photo it shows you have one of these modified bottomplates. You could use that to get rid off your heightproblem, I would also choose to skip these red windows you placed in the sides, and just keep the sides closed. I don't have a rcx at home, so i don't know its exact measurements, but on the photo it looks as if you could win a stud by putting the side walls on jumperplates, that way it would be only 7 studs wide in the back. good luck

A problem with a 2x2 turntable can be that they don't allow for much vertical movement for the bogies, which comes in neccecary when you have slopes in your trainplan.

You can make your own trainbase base out of a double layer of normale white plates combined with technic plates with holes to fit the bogies.

On the first building I would probably make the left and biggest roofwindow even more important, maybe just like a smaller repetition af the left window of the storey below. (window 6 bricks high instead of 8), and with a flat roof, Whats left of the roof on the right of that important roofwindow, i would just keep plain without any windows, or if you really want a window there just keep it in the surface and color of the roof. For the second building I agree with the flat roof. Just an idea http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/02/Den_Haag_-_Hoogstraat_30_v1.JPG succes

As the title allready mentions, I have the chance to buy an complete but used nxt 1 set 8527 for around 100 euro. I know that EV3 is out now, but that simply doesn't fit my budget. Before I want to buy it I have some questions (many of the questions I have seen coming by in the last years, but simply can't find them using the search engine) - Is it correct that when you compare the sets 8527 an the nxt 2 8547 the only differences are the sensors, some additional technic pieces for building purposes, and the software that comes with the brick? - is it possible to update the brick form 8527 to the same software and state as the 8547? (I have seen a nxt2.0 iso image on the helppages) - is this a payed upgrade, I did read somewhere that updating costs around $79.99,-, or is this only for educational sets? - what is the difference between 1.0 and 1.1, what firmware does the nxt1 set 8527 come with? - some time ago I saw a comprehensive list of all pieces that were needed tot change form 8527 to 8547, I can't find it anymore - does the software work under windows 7 - does it work with my current bluetooth connector, or do you need a special LEGO bluetooth connector? - Any other suggestions that I should check befor buying this set secondhand? - or should i just look around a little longer for a 8547? Thanks for any answers or advice in advance Jan

Thanks a lot for your quick and complete answers. Most of my doubts are taken away, most important is to see the set in real life before buying I guess to check the screen and watch for possible leakage. also thanks for the listing of the differences, a few special items aside I think I have most of the generic parts allready in my collection. @Theo van Vroenhoven, why would you want both software versions running on the same computer? is there any advantage or is it just something I need to be aware off?

It also comes in green, old darkgrey and in darkblue (new city police vehicle) http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=6567c02 and http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=6567c03 , but that one is with blue glass in it.

Direct to customer

here you go, it's under the LDD index section http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=69726entry1285149

This is what is what is written obove the search field on the lego site We currently have over 3300 building instructions available online which date back to sets packed in 2002. You can search for replacement instructions by set number, key word or brand. Scroll down after you submit your search to see the results. There are older instructions available than 2002, but not all I supose. The sets discussed here date back to 1989 according to brickset.com

I don't know if you have seen this before, but Eurobricks member Mahjqa made several versions of that type of vehicle. Might be interesting for you mahjqa's photostream

I have no experience with this program whatsoever, but could it be that the language is very sensitive, and that using the word "task" (task_2) to declare the second function gives the problem.

??? = Asterix and Obelix and Idefix

For me it has always been quite simple. Technic is about action and reaction systems build into a scale model. Turn a knob - something moves turn a steering wheel - something steers pull a lever - and so on and so on. That's what makes it Technic to me. So it can be the sliding doors in the set 8038 battle of Endor, and also the mechanism for the walker in the same set. But not the poseable star wars figures. For me Technic is more than just a few sets with that name on it, it's a building "style" that can be in any Lego theme.

I guess this has been discussed a few times before here on the forum, but I doubt what you state: - you need knowledge of cad-cam software to let these printers operate (it's not exactly a digital camera or a color printer like device) - you need knowledge of the material you work with - you need to be creative - you have to spend a lot of time preparing / tweaking the design - Lego pieces need a lot of precision, to have proper clutch and such. Nowadays "cheap" 3D printers often lack that kind of precision needed. - you need to have the printer, or at remote but then the tweaking takes a lot of time. So I think you are right when you say you would be able to print your missing bricks at proper quality, but I guess wrong when you say it will be mainstream very soon (like digital camera / color printer). My guess is that it will become cheaper and more widely available as online service, just as digital printing is now, but still only used by a certain group of people. (prototype design, predesigned personalised objects, ...). Just my idea.

I think I don't understand what you mean with this, the bottom is just plates, same as the top. And if you don't like the technic frame on the sides you can make the sides with nomal 1*X bricks

You can add a sandwich construction: - one layer of large plates at the bottom - a stiff technic frame of beams inbetween - and another plate at the top

All these people with hundreds of photos are hosting them on sites like flickr and brickshelf, and then linking them to here. Make yourself a free account, and check out the guides how to link them. Good luck!

If you have some time left, it's nice to download the instructions for set number 5600, this I guess is how we would want it ultimately. Fully scalable vectorformat, resulting in a reasonable file size.

I download a lot of manuals for my son, he likes them as much as I liked the LEGO ideabooks 30 years ago, and what is see that there is a lot going on in the manuals put online. What I have seen coming along are the following types: - scans of older manuals (often the same as on other manual resources) - compressed, good quality pdf's optimized for webview (I guess all should be like this) - original vectorized pdf's, everything is scalable, best quality but very large files. - original bitmaped material for press. (cutting marks, color scales and everything needed for press is available) large file sizes - low quality bitmapfiles with extremly large file size, 100mb and up, thats what's happenning a lot nowadays. It just looks as if they put them online at a given moment, ready or not. All I know is that I use the file compression function on Adobe Acrobat pro a lot, to bring back these huge manuals to a decent size. I guess it's just a time thing, maybe something to complain about at custommer service. Jan

You might allready know this bridge launcher by Mahjqa, he is also sometimes active at this forum as far as I know.

Here you go Light Bluish Gray Pneumatic T Piece New Style (T Bar) t-piece

The sets 8043 and 8275 had similar motors pictured next to each other on the boxart. 4M and 2M and 2XL, If you follow that trend there are 2 different types of motors used. (there also seem to be different lenghts of text under the images of the motors) Time will tell.

First I want to say that I absolutely adore your model. It has really got that typical Neutelings feel to it. The scale perfectly fits the model, and the round glassbrick perfectly represent the waving glass facade. About your question, I think the last photo they really add something to the model. There is no doubt they represent people there. In the other three pictures I find them more distracting than adding something to the scene. I think the model is lively enough without them. I really hope you win this contest, good luck, Jan (from the land of Neutelings Riedijk)