The_Brown_Hornet

Eurobricks Vassals
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  1. I personally really like your project. I do agree that a lowered four wheel drive defeats the point somewhat but point out that the Land Rover Marque has, and still is producing some of the worlds best off road vehicles (Disclaimer - Yes I'm biased, I own a non-lowered Discovery) I really like the way you've applied the variable suspension geometry in the absence of lego pneumatics. I'll watch the remainder of the build with interest. Regards
  2. What and incredible GBC, very well done I particularly like your use of strings to make the movements and the whole GBC seems to run very smothly
  3. This contest has brought out far more incredible creations than we are allowed to vote for making voting decisions really difficult. Congratulations to all contestants, well done. I'm really impressed with some of the models that I've never even though about trying before and some of the innovative approaches taken to using the pneumatics. 20:10 11:6 36:4 4:3 5:2 17:1
  4. Hi Jim, Thanks very much. I have worked out how to bring in correctly sized links in the first place so hopefully I can be compliant first time in the future. Regards TBH
  5. HI Jim, Thanks for the compliment, appreciate it. Apologies if I've posted incorrectly, I have every intention to operate within the site guidelines. I will make corrections as soon as I can work out how. Regards TBH
  6. Hi Seasider, I'm really glad you like the model and am flattered that you want to build your own. The real secret to getting this to work properly is to find pneumatic switches that don't have too much resistance so that the mechanism can operate with relative ease. That's the entire reason behind using the old style switches. I have a few new style valves that are all very stiff and, in fact, out of about twenty old valves i have, only two or three had suitably low resistance. I don't know if you can artificially wear them out to make them move more freely? Silicon lubricant may help. That's a long winded way of saying that you need to find two pneumatic switches that move freely. I used the old style pneumatic cylinders because I only have two clear ones in my collection and I like to watch the pistons moving back and forth. I don't think it will make any functional difference whichever type of cylinders you use. This thing required a lot of air to operate effectively. As shown in the pictures and video I use 6 manual pumps. I did try to use motorised small pumps but with even with 6 small pumps it still didn't provide enough air to go very well. Take this advice with a grain of salt as ti was many years ago that I tried the motorised compressor. I did mention that I was planning to provide an ldraw file of the basic mechanism behind the model and intend to make good on that promise. At the moment I am away from home for work so don't have access to my Lego to create the digital model so please bear with me until i get the time to complete and post it. If you can wait for the ldraw model I expect it will be able to answer many potential questions as to how it all functions. Regards TBH
  7. Really nice model, congratulations. A great C-model
  8. 32. 4-8-2 Pneumatic Locomotive Functions: This entry has only one function, conversion of linear energy into rotational energy, also known as driving the wheels. This model comes with added bonus of sounding like an old steam train too. Images: Video: Link to the discussion topic:
  9. Thank you all for your generous comments, I really appreciate it. WvG_853, just for clarity I think you may be referring to another Pneumatic Locomotive created by Samer for this same TC-10 competition. He / She has taken a slightly different approach and I too have been following progress with interest. I really like the use of the motorcycle wheels for driving wheels, it give a opportunity for a very large scale model. Alas, at this point, I have only two motorcycle wheels and I really wanted to make a 4-8-2 configuration. Regards TBH
  10. Greetings All, Apologies for being very late to the party, but the TC10 pneumatic competition brings together my favourite parts of what technic is all about and I really wanted to contribute. A number of years ago I had to good fortune to come across a big bunch of pneumatic parts. Having worked on all sorts of pneumatic based MOC's my beloved wife put out the challenge to build her a steam train thus beginning a five year odyssey before finally arriving at the model I present to you all today. Creating a genuinely functioning Lego Pneumatic Locomotive has been a real challenge, searching the internet brings up very few examples. Creating a valve assembly that is both functional and reasonably robust within the confines of lego has proven quite the challenge. Rather than completely reinventing the wheel, I have based my model on a simplified version of Walschaerts Valve Gear that was used on many steam trains through history. I set out at the start of this competition to make a fully reversible valve gear as per the real thing but it proved too much of a challenge at this stage - see how the next few years pans out. The Model: Classic 4-8-2 locomotive configuration using 62.4 tyres for driving wheels old style clear pneumatic cylinders for drive old style pneumatic valves Six manually operated pneumatic pumps - this thing need lots of air. All parts use are original, unmodified, genuine Lego items. The reason I have used "old" style valves is that they are the ones that I could find with minimal resistance, allowing the whole system to function property. Starting with the final result for those of us into instant gratification; This is the final interpretation of my pneumatic locomotive. I will, however make you scroll further for the video. The key to the success of this model is has been in effectively copying the principals behind the walschaerts valve system where the throw of the valves is delayed by the eccentric on the main driving wheel. It is only once the piston ( pneumatic cylinder) has reached the end of it's stroke that the valve is thrown in the opposite direction to push it back the other way. The two valve trains on either side of the loco are offset by 90 degrees so that they "help" each other past the dead spot at the limits of each cylinder's stroke. No matter what I tried, the fundamental principal was "More Steam Coalmam!' In manual form, 6 pumps are required to provide adequate air supply. Four air reservoirs for the testing phase and three in the final model smooth the pulses from six manual pumps to a point that we have reasonably smooth motion. Lucky last, a brief video showing how it works. I'll try to post an ldraw of the basic mechanism in the not too distant future but instructions are well outside my current skill set. If you've got this far, thanks very much for taking the time, I hope it's proven interesting. The Brown Hornet
  11. Hi Becs, I've been trying to build a similar scale MAN TGS for ages and just can't get the mechnicals to a point I'm happy with. I've been following this thread since you first started and am really pleased you finished it. Congratulations on an absolutely amazing model. If you're prepared to make photo instructions as you disassemble, I for one would be eternally grateful. If it's too much work, then I would really appreciate detailed photos of the suspension setup that you came up with. I particularly like the true to life push rod steering mechanism. Thanks in advance Graham