TheBrickster

TRAIN TECH Help, General Questions & Talk to the Staff

361 posts in this topic

You can also hack your own train controllers and receivers fairly cheaply such as using a $3 Arduino board.  You can program it to send PF IR commands to the PF IR receiver in the train engine. You can add sensors to detect the train location, LED lights for signals, motorized crossing gates, etc. 

 

 

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9 hours ago, DEAD1974 said:

OK you convinced me :laugh: PF is the choice, my only issue with it is the plastic look of tracks...but as I have seen on videos LEGO train builder use the 9V style trucks with PF trains. So probably I will try to make that mix too.

Keep in mind that most 9V track comes in old dark grey, with some being made in dark bley before Lego discontinued 9V. But of course, 9V and pf track are compatible with each other.

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I have a question for anyone who has built a "B" unit for their trains. Did you power the "B" unit or does it just roll behind your engine?

Thanks!

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Its been in stock in the US for almost a month, i ordered 5 a few weeks ago and it still shows in stock

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Interesting. What the hell is going on here??? :hmpf_bad: I can order from Austria or Germany, and it is unavailable in both countries...

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7 hours ago, Boettner Builds said:

I have a question for anyone who has built a "B" unit for their trains. Did you power the "B" unit or does it just roll behind your engine?

Thanks!

It depends on the train and how well it runs. If you have a long train, you'll most likely need some extra pulling power, and if two motors in the A unit isn't enough, the B can hold two more. I even have a powered NPCU on my cascades, as the train is very heavy.

Keep inmind that if you are using the 9v system, a single stock speed regulator can only handle two or three motors. But power functions is pretty much limitless, with more batteries and receivers. 

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On 08/05/2017 at 9:19 PM, Daedalus304 said:

Oh right, I knew I was forgetting something. I've added a couple links and short write-ups in my last post just to keep the 3rd party stuff all together.

Now that I've gone through all of this stuff it's actually amazing just how many 3rd party options there are now for us train guys. What a time to come into the hobby!

Lucky you, I am form EU so it will be a bit harder to get those toys...

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On 5/9/2017 at 7:41 AM, davidzq said:

It depends on the train and how well it runs. If you have a long train, you'll most likely need some extra pulling power, and if two motors in the A unit isn't enough, the B can hold two more. I even have a powered NPCU on my cascades, as the train is very heavy.

Keep inmind that if you are using the 9v system, a single stock speed regulator can only handle two or three motors. But power functions is pretty much limitless, with more batteries and receivers. 

Thanks for the reply! I'm working with power functions so that's good to know! I think I'll leave the "B" unit powerless until the need arises.

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I am looking for a source for "flex tube". I know some builders have mentioned finding non LEGO sources, but can't find any reference to where now.  Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Sal

WFB, WI

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Just now, legoboy3998 said:

I am looking for a source for "flex tube". I know some builders have mentioned finding non LEGO sources, but can't find any reference to where now.  Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Sal

WFB, WI

You can get it on Bricklink. "Flex tube" is what many AFOL's refer to it as, but it's BL name is Hose, Rigid 3mm D., and has it's own category in the parts catelog, organized by length. The Lego Group calls it "Outer Cable" for reference.

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