TheBrickster

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TRAIN TECH Help, General Questions & Talk to the Staff

327 posts in this topic

Hello All:

I'm starting this topic as a way for LEGO Train fans to ask questions about sets, track compatibility, power systems, and any other questions pertaining to LEGO Trains.

All are invited to participate.

Edit: Please note that set discontinuation should be discussed in the appropriate thread.

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I'd dearly love to see an answer to;

How do I get those cool train images in my signature, with a link to this thread perhaps.

That would be the Train depot. Simply follow the link and find what trains you like then right click and select "copy image location" then go to your user control panel and find your signature edit page and click " insert image " in the tool bar. :classic:

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Thank you for the links. I had forgotten where they where. Is there a way to design your own bitmaps of MOCed cars? default_classic.gif

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Hello everyone!

I'm washing some of my train sets because a lot of dust has gathered on them. My question is whether the train axle - here I'm talking about the type of axle that 9V and PF trains/waggons usually have (Element ID 4580964 for two of those axles on P@B) - can corrode or not? Is it made of chrome steel, which normally doesn't corrode?

Of course, a bit of water and immediate drying will do the axles no harm. I'm just curious to know.

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Is there a way to design your own bitmaps of MOCed cars?

In order to demonstrate I have just done this and added it to my sig.

Draw it in the image editor of your choice, or in my case I very heavily edited the existing 7938 loco image, since my MOC is an alternate 7938. I used MS Paint because it's simple. The drawback with Paint is that it can't handle transparency so I had to modify the background to become transparent in GIMP, after looking up instructions on the web for how to do it since I've rarely used image editing software.

I'm not sure exactly what scale the Train Depot originals are drawn at, but I've used approximately 1 pixel per plate and 2 pixels per stud and it seems about right.

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I'm washing some of my train sets because a lot of dust has gathered on them. My question is whether the train axle - here I'm talking about the type of axle that 9V and PF trains/waggons usually have (Element ID 4580964 for two of those axles on P@B) - can corrode or not? Is it made of chrome steel, which normally doesn't corrode?

Unless there is some damage to the surface of the axle, then it shouldn't make any difference as it's chromium plated. :classic:

Edited by TheBrickster
Quote of question added to response

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Draw it in the image editor of your choice...

I'm not sure exactly what scale the Train Depot originals are drawn at, but I've used approximately 1 pixel per plate and 2 pixels per stud and it seems about right.

Many thanks for your advice 'Stu83'. I reckon I need to find a good paint program for a MAC then default_classic.gif

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For the MOCers here, do you guys have a "base" you always use to start building a train engine/car or do you just wing it and see where the pieces take you?

I've never built a train before so I'm not familiar with how long/wide they have to be or even what pieces I need to use to make them compatible with train tracks. I use LDD, is it possible to build a functional train in it? What "wheels" do I have to use? :wacko:

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For the MOCers here, do you guys have a "base" you always use to start building a train engine/car or do you just wing it and see where the pieces take you?

I've never built a train before so I'm not familiar with how long/wide they have to be or even what pieces I need to use to make them compatible with train tracks. I use LDD, is it possible to build a functional train in it? What "wheels" do I have to use? :wacko:

I did base my designs upon official sets, and went from there, that's the easiest way. There are many different official sets and MOCs available as LDD downloads. Check the LDD subforum for the official sets.

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Is there somewhere I can go to see different ways to connect wheels to train cars or is using the standard train bases the only option?

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Some of the online versions of railbricks will show tricks using the 2x2 turntable, or 2x2 modified tile with pin, or the 3x2 modified plate with hole

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3176

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=2460

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3680c01

Edited by roamingstudio

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I have two 4548 Transformer and Speed Regulators that I use for two different track loops, but these were UK Transformers (using 240V AC as input) and I need to locate a US-power supply equivalent (110 AC). I've rummaged through my house and found two 9V transformers (one from the phone, and one from a rechargeable drill) but both give different performances when attached to the Speed Regulators and the SigOther wants the phone back :(

Is anyone aware of a current Lego Product that I could use (like the 9833 Transformer?) or do the members of this group have there own off-brand preferences? And (dumb question here) has anyone successfully tried higher voltages?

Thanks peeps!

Chris

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I have two Transformer and Speed Regulators that I use for two different track loops, but these were UK Transformers (using 240V AC as input) and I need to locate a US-power supply equivalent (110 AC). I've rummaged through my house and found two 9V transformers (one from the phone, and one from a rechargeable drill) but both give different performances when attached to the Speed Regulators and the SigOther wants the phone back :(

Is anyone aware of a current Lego Product that I could use (like the 9833 Transformer?) or do the members of this group have there own off-brand preferences? And (dumb question here) has anyone successfully tried higher voltages?

Thanks peeps!

Chris

Any 12V transformer that can supply the required current should work the same (I suspect the reason yours don't is one (or both) can't supply enough current). Reading from this image the current you need is 200mA at 12V.

You can buy a US transformer on Bricklink for about $5 if you want a LEGO one. Many train clubs use other transformers which will supply more current, which allows running more motors at once and therefore longer heavier trains.

I'm pretty sure the French and Germans who play around with train speed records are using higher voltages, so that may be a place to look for more info.

Edited by peterab

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Any 12V transformer that can supply the required current should work the same (I suspect the reason yours don't is one (or both) can't supply enough current). Reading from this image the current you need is 200mA at 12V.

You can buy a US transformer on Bricklink for about $5 if you want a LEGO one. Many train clubs use other transformers which will supply more current, which allows running more motors at once and therefore longer heavier trains.

I'm pretty sure the French and Germans who play around with train speed records are using higher voltages, so that may be a place to look for more info.

Thanks, I really appreciate the info!

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Hi All, has someone successfully added power functions to the hobby train 10183 without major modifications to the loco? Have searched the forum but came up empty. Thought I had seen someone mention they had accomplished this and showed a photo but can't locate the topic or photo. Thanks

Edited by PFtrainsman

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Hi All, has someone successfully added power functions to the hobby train 10183 without major modifications to the loco? Have searched the forum but came up empty. Thought I had seen someone mention they had accomplished this and showed a photo but can't locate the topic or photo. Thanks

I tried searching for this topic as well but could not locate. There is a topic relating to a 12V version of the 10183 but I can't seem to find one about adding PF. Honestly, I don't remember a discussion, but that's not to say there has not been one in Train Tech. Perhaps one of our other members may recall.

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I tried searching for this topic as well but could not locate. There is a topic relating to a 12V version of the 10183 but I can't seem to find one about adding PF. Honestly, I don't remember a discussion, but that's not to say there has not been one in Train Tech. Perhaps one of our other members may recall.

Thanks for your efforts to locate the topic. I may have seen it on another forum, just can't remember. Thanks again.......

Edited by PFtrainsman

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I saw this in a previous thread a long time ago, but can't seem to find it now. Can someone provide the parts needed to attach PF LED lights to a 9V motor? And is this as good as using the original light or would the dimming of the LED, at different speeds, damage the lights? I have zero experience with running PF, I've only built 7938 and 7939, never ran. Any and all info regarding this would be very helpful. Thanks default_classic.gif

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I saw this in a previous thread a long time ago, but can't seem to find it now. Can someone provide the parts needed to attach PF LED lights to a 9V motor? And is this as good as using the original light or would the dimming of the LED, at different speeds, damage the lights? I have zero experience with running PF, I've only built 7938 and 7939, never ran. Any and all info regarding this would be very helpful. Thanks default_classic.gif

Use this part - 8886, Power Functions Extension (Short)

The LED Lights dim with the speed even when used with the PF Components (unless you connect them directly to the battery instead of the IR Receiver) so it won't be a concern.

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Hi All, has someone successfully added power functions to the hobby train 10183 without major modifications to the loco? Have searched the forum but came up empty. Thought I had seen someone mention they had accomplished this and showed a photo but can't locate the topic or photo. Thanks

It depends which Hobby Train model you mean. I've added PF to the number 5 loco

5220689611_cb468744df_z.jpg

and the number 22 train but I can't find a photo of it at the moment.

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Thanks for your response and I opologize for not getting back to you sooner. I hadn't looked at the forum lately. I was looking to put pf in the original loco shown on the box. I like the loco in your photo an may try building and powering that loco instead.

It depends which Hobby Train model you mean. I've added PF to the number 5 loco

5220689611_cb468744df_z.jpg

and the number 22 train but I can't find a photo of it at the moment.

Edited by PFtrainsman

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Hi,

I'm new, so go easy! :classic:

Probably been asked heaps of times so i'm sorry if it has. The 10027 "big red" train shed has caught my eye recently as a potential addition to my set. I don't have any older 9 volt trains as i've just recently rediscovered my love for lego and only have pf trains.

Firstly, will the pf track mate up with the 9 volt of the shed?

Also, will the pf trains fit in the shed? I have the emerald night, maersk and 7939 freighter and was wondering if they'll fit in without modification.

Sorry if these are painfully obvious questions!

Edited by TheBrickster
Topic moved to LEGO Train Questions

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Hi Juzo, My nipples are burning.

PF track is basically 9-volt track with the metal conducting rails replaced with solid plastic. They clip seamlessly together. However, there is a large market for straight 9-volt tracks so you could recover part of your expenses by selling them and replacing them with PF-tracks.

The train shed was designed for 6-stud wide trains, so most of the official LEGO trains will fit, no problem. However, the Emerald Night is the exception because it is 7-studs wide at the cab and 8-studs wide at the running gear. Looks like that locomotive will have to sleep outside... That being said the 10027 train shed is a great kit, one of my favorites (I only wish I had bought multipules) so you shouldn't let the fact that the Emerald Night doesn't fit keep you from getting it. Its price on the second-hand market could be another thing...

Dan-147

Hi Juzo, My nipples are burning.

Sorry about that comment. I did not write that part, some malicious hacker is at work. I cannot edit my original post.

Dan-147

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