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SNIPE

How can I tow these wheels in?

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Hi,

I have just added the steering arms and steering rack and there is two possible cones I can use, a 4l gear tooth strip mounted on a 6 hole liftarm thin with 4 studs (shown in red in the picture) with the 9L liftarms or a 10L technic gear rack with the 6l liftarms.

They have to have towball sockets so those are my choices. I have only tried with the 4l gear rack as im waiting for the 10L to arrive but even if both of these still have the wheels towed out , how can I tow them back in?

Note for each wheel hub/spindle there is 2 ball joints available so it can either be done all on one side or on both however I can't have it being too bulky otherwise it limites the steering. I also think this will solve the 'play' in the ball joints which makes the wheels wobble about, that could well make the toed in wheels even more toed in.

Here are the photographs of it.

1zmjp6g.jpg

2yud5iq.jpg

Edited by SNIPE

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what is it like when the suspension is level, the different lenghts of the tie rod links than the suspension arms means the geometry changes with height. if you change to 6l links the geometry will be more constant, though without changing the suspension arms to 6l as well there will still be some change.

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it's not as bad but is still getting too much play. The suspention arms are horizontal as normal. an are just over 6L

Edited by SNIPE

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Use the other type of steering rack that fits to the 12t gear. That rack has more pin-holes and axle-holes, so you can put some extra pieces to get the desired rack width.

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I would definately use the shorter linkages combined with the new type gear rack, odd length with both pin and axle holes. The axle holes are great for making it the perfect length in this kind of steering setup. I used more or less the exact same setup for my buggy-rod http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=74386 ,

Will try to get a better picture of the actual steering.

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