SuperSirLink

Frigate in progress

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How about the distance the foremast is from the bow, is it too far back? Looking at the references I am using, it is kinda hard to tell...

I'd really like a picture side-on to really be able to say if the foremast is too far one way or the other.

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I'd really like a picture side-on to really be able to say if the foremast is too far one way or the other.

Here ya go...

lddscreenshot1_copy_6.png

Im still working on the bow... But I think the foremast has to come forward more, but see what you think...

Edited by SuperSirLink

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Here ya go...

lddscreenshot1_copy_6.png

Im still working on the bow... But I think the foremast has to come forward more, but see what you think...

Thanks for the picture. Now take this with a grain of salt, but based on a generalized plan of frigates it actually needs to come aft just a bit. Typically speaking the fore mast lay betwixt the second and third gunports. (Again be hesitant using the gun-ports as a measurement marker, as the number of guns can have an effect on this) Is there a particular ship you're basing yours on? Or at least, do you know how many guns you plan to afford to the gun-deck? This would help a lot.

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PS: I can't find those flat hinges in LDD...

Do a search for part number 73983 or "hinge plate"

I am very loosely basing my design on this:

http://www.modelships.de/Unicorn_II/Frigate-Unicorn_II.htm

I am aiming (no pun intended) for 11 gun ports on each side of the gun deck...

Oh okay. I didn't realize you were making something so old. Based on that model; I'd say, "Yes, a little forward wouldn't go amiss."

I look forward to seeing how you make the figurehead. I can't imagine a unicorn to be very easy. :wink:

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Do a search for part number 73983 or "hinge plate"

Oh okay. I didn't realize you were making something so old. Based on that model; I'd say, "Yes, a little forward wouldn't go amiss."

I look forward to seeing how you make the figurehead. I can't imagine a unicorn to be very easy. :wink:

I am going to use the mermaid from Brickbeard's ship as the figurehead. Matching that ship to the t would be quite a challenge. The round gun ports would be cool, but I am not aware of a inverted arch (unless they created one recently, I can't keep up with the new elements)

My goal for this ship is to keep with a design that would place it in the peak pirate era (late 17th century). I am not going to do a well deck though... But I do want to do an ornate angular stern like that ship.

Hopefully once it is done, it will be different than most other ships I have seen posted here and on the brickshelf. Though I would never claim 100% originality (I am sure someone else has thought of these concepts before I).

Here is a slightly reworked bow, I redid the grey layer, but kept the overall curve I had. The only thing I don't like about this layout is the black curves that stick into the grey layer... But overall I like it better than the previous version. Now to fix the other side...

lddscreenshot1_copy_7.png

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I am going to use the mermaid from Brickbeard's ship as the figurehead. Matching that ship to the t would be quite a challenge. The round gun ports would be cool, but I am not aware of a inverted arch (unless they created one recently, I can't keep up with the new elements)

My goal for this ship is to keep with a design that would place it in the peak pirate era (late 17th century). I am not going to do a well deck though... But I do want to do an ornate angular stern like that ship.

Hopefully once it is done, it will be different than most other ships I have seen posted here and on the brickshelf. Though I would never claim 100% originality (I am sure someone else has thought of these concepts before I).

Here is a slightly reworked bow, I redid the grey layer, but kept the overall curve I had. The only thing I don't like about this layout is the black curves that stick into the grey layer... But overall I like it better than the previous version. Now to fix the other side...

lddscreenshot1_copy_7.png

Whilst the bow doesn't look quite like what I'm used to in a LEGO ship, I think the direction you've progressed is a marked improvement.

Again with the well deck!! :pir_bawling: Had a discussion not too long ago about this name. Check this thread if you're bored.

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Whilst the bow doesn't look quite like what I'm used to in a LEGO ship, I think the direction you've progressed is a marked improvement.

Again with the well deck!! :pir_bawling: Had a discussion not too long ago about this name. Check this thread if you're bored.

:) Take it that is not the right term... :) I will review it... (so is that part the "waist-deck"?)

Yes! that is exactly what I am going for! :pir-sweet:

How about version 3! This I think really captures what I was going for and removes the blocky-ness. Thanks for the suggestion Sebeus!

Now hopefully those parts are made in dark red...

lddscreenshot2_copy.png

lddscreenshot1_copy_8.png

Now I will move the foremast closer to the bow, but that might require relocating the brig...

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(so is that part the "waist-deck"?)

Now I will move the foremast closer to the bow, but that might require relocating the brig...

The deck is the main-deck or weather deck... that open, central part is the waist.

By "brig" I assume you're referring to the area used to secure prisoners? (Brig is a more modern, U.S. term, but I don't guess it really matters)

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Matching that ship to the t would be quite a challenge. The round gun ports would be cool, but I am not aware of a inverted arch (unless they created one recently, I can't keep up with the new elements)

I don't think they have an inverted arch small enough to work but that doesn't mean you can't invert one yourself. :wink:

round_gunports.jpg

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I don't think they have an inverted arch small enough to work but that doesn't mean you can't invert one yourself. :wink:

round_gunports.jpg

Brilliant! what part are you using to mate them together?

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Brilliant! what part are you using to mate them together?

4081.jpg?0

This will leave a stud sticking out the back. I'd use it to mount 2555.jpg?0 on, and stick a cannon ram-rod or swab in, if you can't find a better use.. or a different technique all together.

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4081.jpg?0

This will leave a stud sticking out the back. I'd use it to mount 2555.jpg?0 on, and stick a cannon ram-rod or swab in, if you can't find a better use.. or a different technique all together.

Duh, why didn't I think of that! Excellent idea... I might experiment and see how if I can't pull off round gun ports after all...

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Duh, why didn't I think of that! Excellent idea... I might experiment and see how if I can't pull off round gun ports after all...

I'm glad to hear it. I really don't think it should be too difficult. When I was knocking up that little section in LDD I purposefully made it to match a section of gunwale from your pictures.

Went ahead and made a copy of one section of your gunwale using the technique I would use. This is an all but perfect blending of what you have and how I would adapt it. (this version is 2 plates taller than what you have). I leave its use entirely up to you.

gunports.jpg

gunport_breakdown.jpg

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Very nice... Slight variation:

lddscreenshot1_copy_9.png

I have to rework the walls though... with this design, I am only going to get 7 cannons per side...

lddscreenshot1_copy_10.png

Edited by SuperSirLink

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I have to rework the walls though... with this design, I am only going to get 7 cannons per side...

Well I don't think that's too bad really, seeing how your LEGO ship is only about 60% of what the scaled length should be (based on your model the Unicorn). Unfortunately you can't just add length because the length to width ratio will be off. You could see about building gun-ports in the bow quarters. That would add another two overall. Plus once you get aft a bit more, you may find room for two more.

Yeah, that is definatly on the task list... I don't like how short those look...

I'm sure the flag pieces are too short for your liking, but are you also referring to my suggestive brick-built covers? I did want to make them 3x3 (as opposed to 2x2) by didn't put a lot of time into the problem. I want to make sure you feel this is your ship.

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I'm sure the flag pieces are too short for your liking, but are you also referring to my suggestive brick-built covers? I did want to make them 3x3 (as opposed to 2x2) by didn't put a lot of time into the problem. I want to make sure you feel this is your ship.

I was referring to the flag pieces... they just don't seem right... out of place on the round gun ports... There is a 2x3 plate with holder that looks like it might work... Will play more with that tomorrow. No worries, I appreciate the input. :pir-sweet: Sometimes it just takes another set of eyes on something!

Here is where I am going to leave it for the night... Over all I like it, Bringing the guns closer together will let me hit the 10-11 I was aiming for. Did away with the fixed ladder, looking at those reference shots, it was not present. Not sure if that is true of all ships of that era, but I think it is a better sacrifice then over additional gun ports.

Just under 2500 parts so far, I think I am on track with my ~3000 part cap (might go over a bit)...

lddscreenshot2_copy_2.png

lddscreenshot1_copy_11.png

Edited by SuperSirLink

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While she does look more impressive with all those gun ports, it's not the most historically accurate thing. Besides I really don't think you need to reduce the spacing to squeeze in more guns. I think once the full length of the gunwale is made you'll have enough. But I guess we can only wait and see.

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It's looking quite good already!

I would only suggest to remove the grey line between the prefab hull and the gundeck before the progress is at a later state. The ship is too high, it looks tremendous, but if I look at the height it's almost equal to a ship with two gundecks.

You can see this on the large wall behind the figurehead. I don't know where the waterline exactly is, but if it is at the bottom of the prefab hulls your ship's guns would be about 5 meters above the water surface.

I'd suggest to take this point into consideration, and then it might become one of the best frigates I've seen in digital LEGO!

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I think Captain Blackmoor has a good point here. To be more accurate your line of gun-ports need to be about where the tan line is. That is, unless the pre-fab hulls are all supposed to be below the waterline.

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It's looking quite good already!

I would only suggest to remove the grey line between the prefab hull and the gundeck before the progress is at a later state. The ship is too high, it looks tremendous, but if I look at the height it's almost equal to a ship with two gundecks.

You can see this on the large wall behind the figurehead. I don't know where the waterline exactly is, but if it is at the bottom of the prefab hulls your ship's guns would be about 5 meters above the water surface.

I'd suggest to take this point into consideration, and then it might become one of the best frigates I've seen in digital LEGO!

No thats a good point indeed.... Didn't see that, till you said something...

I am guess your talking about this layer:

lddscreenshot1_copy_16.png

I was trying to have the lower deck high enough for mini figs, but I guess because that deck was partially submerged it makes the whole ship seem taller...

The lowest I could drop it is 3 plates. Is is worth going back and reworking it for that? Do you think it would make a difference?

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