bbqqq

Ideas for new part designs

205 posts in this topic

I would love to have this one for small SNOT work. Tyco released something similar over a decade ago.

As for the 1/2 plate, you can do it with headlight brick easy.

Thanks for your comment. Headligth brick is one of my favorIte brick for SNOT.

2 headlight bricks can create a half plate steps, 4 HB for a square, 8 HB for a cube.

But these parts still necessary for some creations because they are much smaller than 2 HB,

and sometimes the third stud of a pair of HB will corrosion to other bricks.

Need triangle tiles to complete the roof.

7452374590_cd4432104a_c.jpg

LDDScreenShot139 by Nachapon S., on Flickr

Edited by bbqqq

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Nice part :thumbup: I never thought of such a part, it looks very useful. But because of the sideways placed 1x1 tiles, it is imposible to place e.g. a brick next to it. :sceptic:

(and what about the edges? :wink: )

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One of Lego Tessellation Tiles.

Interesting piece. Did you thought a similar one but rotated 45°?

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Nice part :thumbup: I never thought of such a part, it looks very useful. But because of the sideways placed 1x1 tiles, it is imposible to place e.g. a brick next to it. :sceptic:

(and what about the edges? :wink: )

Thanks, sometimes the new pieces ideas came form things in real life.

Maybe we just let the wall sit on them and connect from the room next to it.

Interesting piece. Did you thought a similar one but rotated 45°?

Yes, I did, and the octagon one will become 3x3.

There are still may shape that can do tessellation with existing Lego tiles or with itself.

7459496704_c795d68e9f_c.jpg

Lego Tessellation Tiles by Nachapon 3 by Nachapon S., on Flickr

The honey comb floor tile.

Can be use as castle roof tiles, too. Grey/black/white/silver/chrome colors for Sci-fi/space usage.

7459921140_a3ab43bb86_c.jpg

Lego Tessellation Tiles 4 by Nachapon by Nachapon S., on Flickr

Edited by bbqqq

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The Ultimate LEGO Brick. 1x1x1 cube, brick height = brick width.

Connect stud, stud hole, axle, peg & shaft form many directons.

If you like this one & project #2750 (2-sided SNOT helper, got most supports of mine).

http://lego.cuusoo.com/ideas/view/2750

Please support both of them, Thank you very much for your kind support :-).

I have 20 projects on cuusoo for now. 12 of them are new brick design.

7466443030_736b494a4a_c.jpg

The Ultimate LEGO Brick for SNOT by Nachapon cuu by Nachapon S., on Flickr

New logo...

7467282424_04a9ce3989_c.jpg

0937 bricks_ by Nachapon by Nachapon S., on Flickr

Edited by bbqqq

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LEGO log cabin bricks v2 (double log diameter to minifig scale).

Three new moulds require.(with corner L/R & log tile 1x2)

Use normal Lego pieces as inner structure.

Options to fill or leave the log gaps.(connect them with plates)

Connect round brick and round tile(with growth rings decal) to the corner piece.

The corner pieces are not optimize for save plastic & moulding yet.

pic size (1600 x 1087)

Edited by bbqqq

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The corner piece looks a bit complex to mold. How would you remove the molding block from the inside corner stud?

Looks good but a little drafty compared to other log wall design posted earlier.

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The corner piece looks a bit complex to mold. How would you remove the molding block from the inside corner stud?

Looks good but a little drafty compared to other log wall design posted earlier.

Thanks, maybe just fill the corner of the corner piece with plastic. Then the split molding block should be OK.

Some people in cuusoo told me that the log size in the previous log wall are too small form the minifig scale, and I agree with them.

Edited by bbqqq

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It is imposible to fit a normal plate direct behind the log bricks, because there will be studs hitting the middle between 2 log bricks, if you know what I mean :wink:

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It is imposible to fit a normal plate direct behind the log bricks, because there will be studs hitting the middle between 2 log bricks, if you know what I mean :wink:

And you can't place plate along the corner because they'd hit each other. Why not fill in the gap and make it solid?

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It is imposible to fit a normal plate direct behind the log bricks, because there will be studs hitting the middle between 2 log bricks, if you know what I mean :wink:

And you can't place plate along the corner because they'd hit each other. Why not fill in the gap and make it solid?

Thanks guys for interested in this topic. Your nice comments are helpful for improvement and remove bugs.

Use 2/3 studs holes for stud of corner pieces then plates will not hit each other as shown in picture below.

In case of to fill the gaps. Use brick with side knob(s), and technic bricks with side knobs(add peg w. knob) and typical bricks & plates.

With log tile invert & log tile invert with 45° cut one end. The inside wall of cabin will become as good as outside.

(Log layers hold by door/windows parts & bricks with side knobs)

Maybe the corner pieces should have a vertical stud & stud hole for stack themself.

See more pic at http://lego.cuusoo.com/ideas/view/19521

7469821530_8743b4a169_c.jpg

LEGO cuusoo log cabin bricks v2 by Nachapon by Nachapon S., on Flickr

Interesting piece. Did you thought a similar one but rotated 45°?

I think this is what your mean. Good one because easy to build walls. :thumbup:

7473365088_bf7d0531b9_c.jpg

Lego Tessellation Tiles by Nachapon 5 by Nachapon S., on Flickr

7473364292_f2b4422618_c.jpg

Lego Tessellation Tiles by Nachapon 4 by Nachapon S., on Flickr

Edited by bbqqq

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Discovered that cylinder walls for stud of a brick are tapered.(for increase clutch power and easy release from mould)

So, the 2-sided stud stick will not go all the way.( "Dia end" are smaller than "Dia start")

You can prove this by insert an axle into the cylinders.

Here come a new version of the "2-sided stud" (for brick to brick & brick to plate):

Stud(knob)+axle.(end of axle should be a bit smaller for reduce friction)

Cross-section of a 2x4 brick model.

7495543760_d594f06d62_c.jpg

LEGO 2-sided brick v2 by Nachapon by Nachapon S., on Flickr

Edited by bbqqq

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Nice idea (and very creative :classic: ), but the only drawback is that if you turn the brick around, the "pins" will fall out. :wink:

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Nice idea (and very creative :classic: ), but the only drawback is that if you turn the brick around, the "pins" will fall out. :wink:

Thanks, maybe you didn't noticed that there is a pair of stud on the pins, so they will not fall out. The clutch power should be same as a normal stud.

I'm going to make this part myself by to modify the axle with knob 3m.

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Thanks, maybe you didn't noticed that there is a pair of stud on the pins, so they will not fall out. The clutch power should be same as a normal stud.

I'm going to make this part myself by to modify the axle with knob 3m.

Oh, now I understand how it works; that's why there is some sort of "double stud" :classic:

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Discovered that cylinder walls for stud of a brick are tapered.(for increase clutch power and easy release from mould)

So, the 2-sided stud stick will not go all the way.( "Dia end" are smaller than "Dia start")

You can prove this by insert an axle into the cylinders.

Here come a new version of the "2-sided stud" (for brick to brick & brick to plate):

Stud(knob)+axle.(end of axle should be a bit smaller for reduce friction)

Cross-section of a 2x4 brick model.

LEGO 2-sided brick v2 by Nachapon by Nachapon S., on Flickr

Something I should point out about this brick is that it has one severe drawback-- it could very easily get stuck inside certain parts, like 1x1x5 columns. A regular Technic axle doesn't have this problem because it can slide in and out of the piece freely, but the presence of studs here would make it connect more securely and thus become difficult or impossible to remove (depending on which version of the column is being used).

This problem would be present for pretty much any type of "2-sided stud" without any type of rim separating the upper and lower connection points.

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I agree there could be a problem with 2 studded part. That's probably why the clone made a 2x2 style with studs on both sides, not a 1x1 at all.

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Something I should point out about this brick is that it has one severe drawback-- it could very easily get stuck inside certain parts, like 1x1x5 columns. A regular Technic axle doesn't have this problem because it can slide in and out of the piece freely, but the presence of studs here would make it connect more securely and thus become difficult or impossible to remove (depending on which version of the column is being used).

This problem would be present for pretty much any type of "2-sided stud" without any type of rim separating the upper and lower connection points.

I agree there could be a problem with 2 studded part. That's probably why the clone made a 2x2 style with studs on both sides, not a 1x1 at all.

Thanks guys for nice comments. I agree with both of you.

This is new version of the 2-sided stud only. It comes with a key slot so we can pull it out by a hook form both side, in case of mis use.

With this parts, we will get many many new parts. Complete set of two sided plates/bricks/slopes & invert tiles (as shown) etc.

7501863236_8ebf2b740a_c.jpg

LEGO 2-sided stud V2 by Nachapon by Nachapon S., on Flickr

Edited by bbqqq

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Looks great, and the tile could double as a jumper tile too. Unlike the 2x2 tile with 1 stud, the hex tile with 2 studs would work quite well.

Thanks, I want to make it a flat tile at the first place, then tried something different.

Forgive my ignorance, but why is the minifig pixelated?

The subject is tiles. I try to make minifig gradually pixelated, but it looks strange.

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