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Springs only push the car back up when you hit a pothole; the shock absorber's damping capability make the passengers keep their teeth! :tongue:

Or in Davids case keep his fulse teeth in place.... :tongue:

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i have made an ldd model of my planetary gear wheels. please note that the center 8 tooth gear drives four 8 tooth gears

http://www.brickshel...lanetaryhub.lxf

please remove the green part in real life and cover the hole with something you like, i prefer a 6x6 parabolic dish

Edited by efferman

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Looks enormous.

The third link mounted so high will create some interesting "motions" during articulation and significantly raise the roll center.

v/r

Andy

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Why is the top A arm so high above the axle?

because the other wishbones are in the back and not under the axle. when i mount the upper wihshbone deeper , it could be possible that the axle will be unstable in driving direction. sure i could mount the rear wishbones under the axle but this would be not good for ground clearance.

edit:

today at work i have thinked about your words and i will look what i can do. but you should think about following: where is the difference in height from ground to the tow ball when you compare my axle with an portal axle?

Edited by efferman

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I think it should be stable. Maybe I'm wrong, but placing the upper arm lower would actually increase instability. Now the three points define a big triangle that is parallel with the motion of the suspension and perpendicular to the driving direction. I see no "interesting motion" issues here.

EDIT: maybe because the upper arm points to the opposite direction, there could be some interesting motions...

Edited by Lipko

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The upper third link mount (because it is being used as the centering device) will cause the suspension to rotate around the upper towball. A much more preferable point of rotation would be the drive shaft. It will function fine, but this approach will raise the roll center of the vehicle. This is the reason that I use triangulated four links. They create a roll center between the upper and lower links. I high roll center will cause instability while traversing slopes and create more stress on the springs.

A portal axle with the fixed center third link will have a similiar roll center to your axle.

v/r

Andy

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starting the next thing. the goal is this

original.jpg

Maybe a Little Inspiration for you... MAN 8x8

si03_606.jpg

Greetz

Markus

Edited by MarkusOSX

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wow, iam in love with this :wub:

and i have redesigned the axle. lower is actual not possible from my point of view

8661392586_c6873038e6.jpg

8660292241_e92d7d6905.jpg

8660292383_d46f806562.jpg

8660292505_5b63f6d45e.jpg

Edited by efferman

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That looks awesome. I am looking forward to the completed vehicle with that axle in it. It is going to be huge.

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Definitely to low. I think the axles will get stuck most of the time to the obstacles(previous axle was better).

Btw great work!

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the ground clearance is the same to the ldd file version, only the fixing points of the wishbones are lower, and my big G has only one stud more ground clearance in the middle of the axle. sure i could generate more ground clearance when i would use portal axles, but the original MAN 8x8 has no portal axles i will dont use it too. dont forget that this will be not a crawler, but an relatively original following 8x8 truck. the goal is not to climb over every obstacle, the goal is an relative original chassis in the borders of Lego

edit:when you look at hthis sketch you will see why oy use this linkage and not something simple but rocksolid

Edited by efferman

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Nice work so far. Definitely will be a big one. I have a bunch of questions but I will ask just one. Will each tire have its own motor?

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Hi,

I´m working on something simliar for my 8x8 atm, but with the XL-motors directly in the axles, all steering, portals and diff-lock.

8660930539_f59761b562.jpg8660930519_c4f20d37d7.jpg

8661528739_a5916047cd.jpg8661528649_8b2993d769.jpg8662626694_d4a7de9ce5.jpg

Sry for the bad quality pics (was late and only with iPad :wink:)

But my truck will be a bit higher than yours effe...

Greetz

Markus

Edited by MarkusOSX

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Thank you for posting the LDD file, much easier to look at/understand when you can view it through LDD vs pictures.

On a similar topic, has anyone managed to make a steering system/axle that can drive as well as steer with a tight turn radius for the tires?

On my current project the pivot point needs to be right next to the tire rim (using the 'unimog' tires), other was it hits the side of the truck when it turns. Not hard to do without drive, but with drive it doesn't seem possible, limit of Lego maybe?

Edited by dandexter

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Take a look at Sheepo's Landrover's suspension, and how the universal joint is placed (in the review thread, it's explained).

I don't know if that would actually help.

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Hi,

I´m working on something simliar for my 8x8 atm, but with the XL-motors directly in the axles, all steering, portals and diff-lock.

But my truck will be a bit higher than yours effe...

Greetz

Markus

is it only me or is the torque ball mounted a bit to high?

when the springs are compressed, the axles moving back?

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Thank you for posting the LDD file, much easier to look at/understand when you can view it through LDD vs pictures.

On a similar topic, has anyone managed to make a steering system/axle that can drive as well as steer with a tight turn radius for the tires?

On my current project the pivot point needs to be right next to the tire rim (using the 'unimog' tires), other was it hits the side of the truck when it turns. Not hard to do without drive, but with drive it doesn't seem possible, limit of Lego maybe?

I will make this quick to not derail someelses thread. Check out LPE Power's unimog front axle. It uses kingpin inclination to get what you want. It becomes simpler to build when you widen the track width by two studs.

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is it only me or is the torque ball mounted a bit to high?

when the springs are compressed, the axles moving back?

On the front a little bit forward an on the back a little bit backwards, but that's not a problem.

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when it is no problem for you, then it is okay for me.

i have assembled the second axle and made a short test of the positions of the linkage. the pneumatic cylinders and the position of the mountig points at the frame are only for testing

8663006593_bbf1fe4cbd.jpg

8663006843_ee79fe840b.jpg

8664105948_ccd45a8053.jpg

Edited by efferman

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In my tests, I have found that those grey links are very flexible and sometimes weak. Hopefully they work for you though!

tim

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