Lasse D

Lasse's Model Team Construction Yard

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I don't think we have seen any Chinese truck models (like Lasse D's Lego FAW Jiefang) on this forum yet:

faw-jiefangJ6-logo.jpgrendering_front.png

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D'oh!

That's because I forgot to present it when it was done!

22front3.jpg

This is the high-detail and multiple-functional FAW Jiefang... which I forgot to make a thread with - so here is the Brickshelf gallery.

The model that I'm working on right now (the computer built model) is the robust-enough-for-childs-play version.

Edit.

I even made a trailer with a container containing the Chinese flag for it!

11front1.jpg

Edited by Lasse D

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Great truck, let's hope it is strong enough for the children.:sweet:

Edited by Alasdair Ryan

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I have uploaded a video comparing the new FAW with the one from last year. The changes work really well compared to the old design:

Edited by Lasse D

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What Lasse D did not mention was this explanation of his

above:

"This kind of Model Team trucks are used for displays at exhibitions where children can come and control them. It is important that these models are robust and easy to use. The red truck was used at LEGOWorld Copenhagen this year. It has a lot of problems, especially when it comes to robustness and grip. The green truck is new and an attempt at remedying the problems of the old truck.

"Both trucks are models of FAW Jiefang 6x4.

Instructions for the old (2011) model: http://c-mt.dk/instructions/instructions.php?model=FAW

Instructions for the new (2012) model: http://c-mt.dk/instructions/instructions.php?model=FAW_Jiefang2012

"Stats: Red vs Green:

Weight: 936g. vs 879g.

Weight distribution: 74/26 vs 69/31

Pieces: 653 vs 714

Drive: permanent 4WD vs 4WD using simple differentials

Speed: XL geared 5:9 vs. XL geared 5:7 (see the speed difference)

"The shorter length, more robust frame, slower steering, better 5th. wheel, weight distribution and differentials make the new green design clearly superior."

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Thanks.

My plan is now to build 2 versions of every new or updated truck: One for displays with lots of functionality and details and one that is easy to build, robust and fun for kids to play with.

My next truck will be an updated Scania. I have just created a new prototype for how the drive and coupling mechanism should work:

The problems with the differential letting wheels slip when only using a single drive axle can be lessened by using a solid rear axle and let one of the wheels have limited slip:

automatic_coupling_prototype1.jpg

The coupling mechanism is automatic and does no longer need power from steering. When driving forward, nothing happens, but when reversing, the coupling alternates between locked and unlocked, so the driver can choose to uncouple the trailer simply by how much drives in reverse:

automatic_coupling_prototype2.jpg

 

It took me a couple of weeks to figure out how to make this mechanism both compact and reliable. I believe this should do it. Next update should be with a new steering mechanism of the Scania - one which allows smaller wheel wells.

Edited by Lasse D

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The three 8 tooth gears on the liftarm of length 3 ensure that poser is only given in one direction. I learned this back in 1997 with the 8232 helicopter.

The rubber 1x2 liftarm ensures that the cyan latch is pushed down roughly 1/3 of the time while reversing.

The red rubber band ensures the latch is up the rest of the time.

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I really love your passion to improve your skills and models continuously. The trucks combine functions in a way I wouldn't ever had thought of. Keep up the great work :classic:

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And I'm back to the Model Team yard.

The most popular building instructions for anything on my home page has always been the Scania R340. This truck is a bit fragile, slow, nose heavy and technically complicated, so I want to update it by constructing a whole new truck. This is what I have so far:

175_scania_july12.jpg

My models go trough many iterations before they get finished, and this is no exception. Right now there are a lot of things on the front which might change:

- I'm not sure about the lower lights; they might be too dominant.

- The main grilles are using cheese wedges sideways. I might put them studs-up as the current configuration doesn't quite flow with the rest.

- The 2x2 tile should perhaps be light gray.

- The main body should perhaps be lowered 1 plate with the front lowered 1.5 plates. This would remove the space above the mud guards, but make the front gap less prominent and more in scale.

- I'm not sure about the "nose holes". I might make them square by adding a orange 1x1 plates.

Any other suggestions? Just throw them out there - even if you are not sure they will improve the design. This model is "high detailed", so single stud connections are not just allowed, but encouraged :classic:

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I love the orange color! And the grill work looks awesome. Looking forward to more progress.

tim

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Since we seem to agree, I have updated the front with most of the changes mentioned in my last post. Imagine the red bricks are orange - I'm running out of orange bricks at the moment.

scania_revision2_front.jpg

The back side and top still need a lot of work, but right now my greatest concern is getting the top right. I want to make a "R-series highline" model (link shows the model in question).

Once I have the top done, I will get much better insight into how the proportions of the various parts work together.

scania_revision2_back.jpg

This model uses the new L and Servo motors, while the new L motor is fast, it has far less torque than the XL motor, so I will have to do some down-sizing of my trailers. Hopefully this will make it more fun to play with. A sturdy version for childrens play will follow later, once I get more servo motors.

Edited by Lasse D

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Why does the chassis look like it's sacking in the last photo?

Because I pushed the side moldings up when lifting it - I will reinforce this as it is a problem everytime the truck is moved. I also had to make a different steering mechanism because of the large weight on the front axle. It's still very much a work in progress :laugh:

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Could you mount the receiver and the battery box in the middle sides or would this make it become out of scale?

bb466.jpg

Edited by Alasdair Ryan

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Yes. Using an L motor for the drive actually allows this, and it is my plan for future lighter trucks (the PF-rechargable is lighter but has less capacity than the 6xAA box).

This is not possible when having the fat XL motor in the middle as my earlier trucks did.

Here is how it looks with a receiver on the side in this scale:

1mocpages_type_resized.jpg

Edited by Lasse D

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I had posted this old 9v battery box as well but it did not show.:wacko:

4760c01.jpg?0

I do not know how much power they have if you used this to power the truck.You could always use it as a donkey engine if you know what that is.

Edited by Alasdair Ryan

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