8110 - Unimog - MODs and Improvements

[davidmull]

You could have use the LDD-file i provided....

But I guess this will do too!

Remember:

These parts are gearbox only.

And remember that the white part are LDD-replacement for other parts.

As said before: this is more stable and less skipping than the xl-version.

How do u mean gearbox only,these are what's needed for the steering conversion yes?

Have u any videos of the steering working?

[efferman]

I think my Cab is finished.

I hope you like my design changes

[Ramacco]

I think my Cab is finished.

I hope you like my design changes

I like it a lot. Good job

[JunkstyleGio]

How do u mean gearbox only,these are what's needed for the steering conversion yes?

Have u any videos of the steering working?

Gearbox only: only the parts need for the set of gears and attachements to power the steering.

Too bad I don't have a HD video for this...

Edited August 28, 2011 by JunkstyleGio

[tripletschiee]

I think my Cab is finished.

....

I hope you like my design changes

Effe, you are mad....

I like the idea with the yellow warning lights!

But why the h*** are you using two red bushes at the upper mirror mounting??

I want to see it on the Unimog itself!!!

Regards,

Gerhard

[efferman]

Effe, you are mad....

Yes, especially because i dont like the U 400 design

I like the idea with the yellow warning lights!

its my way for HoG since 20 years

But why the h*** are you using two red bushes at the upper mirror mounting??

unfortunately there are no black Bushes. maybe i put the search lights at this place

I want to see it on the Unimog itself!!!

me too, currently i am working at the fifth chassis revision

[AndroTech]

Unfortunately there are no black Bushes. maybe i put the search lights at this place

Effe, look at THIS. Is this what you need?

[efferman]

Thank you very much

[tripletschiee]

Here is the first two-way adaption for the 8110. Made by BS-user radar92.

More pictures in his BS-folder.

Regards,

Gerhard

Edited August 29, 2011 by tripletschiee

[JunkstyleGio]

Did some recoloring on the official wallpaper of the unimog.

From left to right and top to bottom:

Orange cabin only,

Blue only,

Red only,

Yellow only,

Original colors and

Orange only.

Did TLG make the right choices in colors?

Please leave your observations here..

[davidmull]

Did some recoloring on the official wallpaper of the unimog.

From left to right and top to bottom:

Orange cabin only,

Blue only,

Red only,

Yellow only,

Original colors and

Orange only.

Did TLG make the right choices in colors?

Please leave your observations here..

Of course they made the right colour choice as orange is a main colour for unimogs,also it looks the best without a doubt :)

[davidmull]

I took the liberty of adapting and LDD this design. (LDD file here)

Works quite well...

Has anyone tried this or have a video before I order parts,iv tried the original method with the xL motor and 36 tooth gear and it works quiet well so I'm not sure which to stick with :(

[AndoS]

Has anyone tried this or have a video before I order parts,iv tried the original method with the xL motor and 36 tooth gear and it works quiet well so I'm not sure which to stick with :(

I'm going to try out Doug72's solution in coming days as I want to see how the steering with the clutch-gear works but in addition I'll replace the knob wheels.

Edited August 30, 2011 by AndoS

[tripletschiee]

Did some recoloring on the official wallpaper of the unimog.

Nice one, Mr. Photoshop!

Regards,

Gerhard

[doug72]

I'm going to try out Doug72's solution in coming days as I want to see how the steering with the clutch-gear works but in addition I'll replace the knob wheels.

4 lobe knobs gears provide much better transmission and engagment than toothed gears for the right angle drive between cab and chassis.

Exactly what they are designed for.

The drive to the steering rack only makes a 1/2 turn from full left to full right so juddering not a problem.

My Unimog now completed and steering is smooth and stable.

Edited August 30, 2011 by Doug72

[Dutch_EE]

There is a discussion about where to put a drive motor inside the Unimog.

I know it is (almost) blasphemy, but it's quite easy to build in the XL-motor over the rear axle and still have 4WD.

The only thing you need to do, is to take out the center differential, and replace it with a nr. 3 axle joiner and a 16 tooth gear to keep a driven engine as well as a driven front axle.

If you miss power, you can always change the gear ratio inside the portal gearboxes from 16->16 to 8->24. Just don't forget the small change in the front axle, because otherwise the 24 tooth gear doesn't fit.

[tripletschiee]

There is a discussion about where to put a drive motor inside the Unimog.

I know it is (almost) blasphemy, but it's quite easy to build in the XL-motor over the rear axle and still have 4WD.

The only thing you need to do, is to take out the center differential, and replace it with a nr. 3 axle joiner and a 16 tooth gear to keep a driven engine as well as a driven front axle.

If you miss power, you can always change the gear ratio inside the portal gearboxes from 16->16 to 8->24. Just don't forget the small change in the front axle, because otherwise the 24 tooth gear doesn't fit.

Why don't you use the solution shown in the Youtube-video mentioned in this answer?

It is the cleanest solution I've seen so far. Hardly no change, everything works as before, you'll have 4WD and also the center of gravity is pretty low.

Regards,

Gerhard

[doug72]

There is a discussion about where to put a drive motor inside the Unimog.

I know it is (almost) blasphemy, but it's quite easy to build in the XL-motor over the rear axle and still have 4WD.

The only thing you need to do, is to take out the center differential, and replace it with a nr. 3 axle joiner and a 16 tooth gear to keep a driven engine as well as a driven front axle.

If you miss power, you can always change the gear ratio inside the portal gearboxes from 16->16 to 8->24. Just don't forget the small change in the front axle, because otherwise the 24 tooth gear doesn't fit.

I have changed the gears in the portal axle boxes to 12/20 double bevel gears - gives good speed / power ratio.

Again you have to modify it a bit to allow space for 20T gear.

8/24 means the 8t gear might be over loaded.

The XL motor mounted as shown in video works well and does not foul the cargo body and drives the 16T gear on centre diff.

Edited August 30, 2011 by Doug72

[davidmull]

There is a discussion about where to put a drive motor inside the Unimog.

I know it is (almost) blasphemy, but it's quite easy to build in the XL-motor over the rear axle and still have 4WD.

The only thing you need to do, is to take out the center differential, and replace it with a nr. 3 axle joiner and a 16 tooth gear to keep a driven engine as well as a driven front axle.

If you miss power, you can always change the gear ratio inside the portal gearboxes from 16->16 to 8->24. Just don't forget the small change in the front axle, because otherwise the 24 tooth gear doesn't fit.

Look at the YouTube clip a page or 2 back,it's the easiest and best way to install the motor,works great with no changes to original design :) I really think Lego ment us to do this :)

I have changed the gears in the portal axle boxes to 12/20 double bevel gears - gives good speed / power ratio.

Again you have to modify it a bit to allow space for 20T gear.

8/24 means the 8t gear might be over loaded.

The XL motor mounted as shown in video works well and does not foul the cargo body and drives the 16T gear on centre diff.

The 12/20 sounds quiet good but does it take away the torque like the 8/24 has? Is it much faster with the 12/20 ?video would help too!

[davidmull]

Hi guys I need help,iv built the steering using the LDD pics in the other page but when I connect a battery box and try see how it works all the gears start crunching like there driving opposite to each other,the clutch gear is driving a different direction and crunching,what am I doing wrong?..

[davidmull]

Ok I figured it out The LDD above and it works quiet well,I'll just change my friction pins on the steering now to make it even better,

What's people's opinions on the power pullers wheels on the unimog? They also seem very expensive to buy on BL !

Edited August 31, 2011 by davidmull

[efferman]

want someone round mudguards for the rear axle?

it should fit on a unmodified 8110 too

[timslegos]

very nice mod efferman, looks very realistic!!

tim

[davidmull]

want someone round mudguards for the rear axle?

it should fit on a unmodified 8110 too

Ur chassis looks very fragile and empty,also I prefer the original overall design sorry

@ JunkStyleGio: looks really good with the black panels!

I just build my first attempt for a snowblower. The PPTO lifts the whole thing up and down. The PTO turns the blades. As I said, it is just an attempt. It is not even prototype-stadium. But it sort of works. Of course there are still some issues to be solved, but for a start it is ok.

See more pictures on flickr.

I think it needs to be bigger, so I'll extend the radius of the blades by one or two studs. And of course the expulsion-thing is missing.

Regards,

Gerhard

Any updates on this plower gerhard? I really like the look of this!

Edited August 31, 2011 by davidmull

[efferman]

Ur chassis looks very fragile and empty,also I prefer the original overall design sorry

i know what you mean. in this pictures are some components (electrical and pneumatical control block, compressor) not implemented. if this is done the frame is massive and not more twisting.

@timr

thanks