tripletschiee

8110 - Unimog - MODs and Improvements

1906 posts in this topic

Here my Unimog RC + 28 LED´S!! WIP!!

I like the stack of power-connectors! :laugh::thumbup: Not very stylish, but efficient! :sweet:

Regards,

Gerhard

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Once I've got mine, I'll add a towing hitch to the front & rear.

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As an add-on the a above mentioned solution to the heavy friction steering I would like to show which parts I used!

replacement.jpg

Edited by JunkstyleGio

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I'm looking at the steering resistance issue, and am about to combine a few things.

1 - removing the friction pins as noted in the thread

2 - removing the yellow steering cogs and using a 12T and 20T bevel gear setup

3 - As cool as the new tires are, I'm wondering how much improvement will come from the balloon style tires of the same size as they have a much smaller surface region WRT the table.

Thoughts on the tire swap?

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Changing wheels is a definite NO-NO for me! Sure it will smoothen the steering even more, but it takes away the charme of the unimog itself.

For me the removal of the friction-pins does the trick quite nicely!

Edited by JunkstyleGio

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Can someone show me a picture or something of what that needs to be replaced to make the steering easyer to handle? And how hard is it to do it when you allready have built the model?

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Can someone show me a picture or something of what that needs to be replaced to make the steering easyer to handle? And how hard is it to do it when you allready have built the model?

Hi Traktor,

You just have to remove the front wheels and then you can see the red pins.

Compare the pics with your Unimog and you'll know what has to be changed.

It's really no big deal to change the parts. It's a 5 min. job.

steering2r.jpg

steering1.jpg

Ralph

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Here now my Final Version. Radio Contoled / 20 Led´s / Chrome Wheels. And I have change the color from the Crane, because I don´t like Orange + Red together.

M-Motor for Drive:

27nqn9wl.jpg

ebsfp5ax.jpg

Chrome Wheels:

jo5wr9o7.jpg

Other colors:

ucil8dlr.jpg

ghn69noz.jpg

fvcsvyj6.jpg

And Lights! 20 LED´s!

qihr6u3n.jpg

vastgzcz.jpg

dul48m9m.jpg

k822wqsg.jpg

lwsklob2.jpg

cbiuvp7k.jpg

rtzzwgen.jpg

7r7ck5km.jpg

pu3c2ypn.jpg

Here with big Wheels:

ocmk5nty.jpg

xcfhmb3j.jpg

Video:

Edited by Denny

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Do you have one XL motor for each axel, or is it only 2 wheel drive?

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Only one XL Motor on the rear Axel because in Front is no Space for another Motor. But with two Motors, the Unimog will be stronger.

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Do you think it is possible to just replace the fake motor with a motor, or is not the drive train strong enought? I think that would be the best, or at least the easiest way to motorise it.

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From the position of the fake motor, you can´t make a good connection to the front axel, the suspension and steering must work.

(sorry for my bad english :blush: )

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Only one XL Motor on the rear Axel because in Front is no Space for another Motor. But with two Motors, the Unimog will be stronger.

You can try to remove the central differential and you´ll have a 4x4.

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Yes, but only for a small motor and this little thing is not strong enough for the big unimog. With one XL Motor, the Unimog drive really good, fast and strong (look my videos).

But for really terrain in the garden or else, two XL Motor are better.

Only thing is, the batteries are very fast empty. After 5 Minutes the unimog are very slowly. With two XL Motors, you need 2 Batterie Box with together 12 Battries. But then is the unimog more massy.

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Anyone tried different cab colours yet?

I thought the same ! , me thinks she'd look good in yellow

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[snip]

For me the removal of the friction-pins does the trick quite nicely!

Thanks a lot to JunkstyleGio et al, who identified the friction-pins as cause for the stiff steering of the Unimog.

I found a solution, where I keep the pins. It works surprisingly well, so here we go:

- pick up those 4 red friction-pins and try out several black axle joiners (6536). Some will stuck very tightly on the pins, while some can be moved quite well.

If you have a lot of Lego Technic around, you should not have any problem to find 4 "loose" axle joiners.

If the Unimog is your only Lego set, I suggest that you start with building the front axle first (i.e. instruction book 2), which allows you to select the 4 best matching joiners out of the 40 that came with the Unimog.

- once you've found 4 "loose" axle joiners, put Silicone grease on the friction part. I prefer Silicone grease to lubricate my Lego, but other lubricants should work as well, as long as they are nonaggressive towards plastics.

Do not overdo it, though. Be careful that you get no grease inside the part of the pin that will hold the axle.

- and that's it! The friction-pins should now be happily move inside the axle-joiners and the beams :sweet:

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Brickshelf user MB1632S, posted pictures of his MOD Unimog attachment.

dscn0926.jpg

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i hope you like it

and i hope the two bar/30 PSI wich delivers my two pumps are enough to tilt the cab when it is ready.

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Brickshelf user MB1632S, posted pictures of his MOD Unimog attachment.

dscn0926.jpg

Wow great job, he beat me to it.

Edited by radar92

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I wonder is it possible to motorise the unimog with out messing around with the original design to much,a simple easy way and been able to keep it 4x4 too :wacko:

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