MSM_546

8110 - Unimog U400 General Discussion

1176 posts in this topic

The Unimog U400 is one of my favorite Technic sets after the 8297 Off roader.

I actually own 2 sets by a strange circumstances, and it is wonderful!

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The Unimog U400 is one of my favorite Technic sets after the 8297 Off roader.

I actually own 2 sets by a strange circumstances, and it is wonderful!

Haha default_laugh_new.gif I wish I could be under those same circumstances.. I still can't get around to buying one in the first place. default_sceptic.gif

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Is there a fix for the unimog tilting slightly to the left due to the weight of the battery box. I don't see where else I could put the BB. Is it possible to move it towards the centre a bit or maybe add some weight to the other side.

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@ Bigfoot: On this TechnicBRICKS topic, Fernando Correia discussed the "Panhard Rod" suspension issue that causes the body to lean by 1/2 stud. Do a "CTL-F" key combination to search for the term "Panhard" to find it in the middle of that LONG article.

He wrote, "Still related with the usage of the Panhard rod in this model, there is a discussion running at EB, regarding a potential flaw or a mistake in the building instructions.

It happens that the front and rear axles are built slightly different, leading to a small misalignment on the chassis, what may eventually avoid the model to drive perfectly straight, if it gets motorized.

In fact it is just an half stud misalignment, but it can be clearly seen on the photo bellow. There you can see the difference from the axle 3 with stud, in dark tan. The stud is totally visible on the left side but almost hidden on the right side. The difference is also visible from the towballs present on the top of the portal axles, but not so easy to realize from the photo below... Obviously this can be seen better, on the real model.

TBs_20110628_164.jpg

"The difference occurs because the lower end of the Panhard rod, is connected to the axles in two different ways or using two different parts. A perpendicular axlehole and pin connector (6536) on the Unimog rear axle (left photo) and a perpendicular double axlehole and pin connector (32291) on the front axle (right photo). While the correct way seems to be the one used for the rear side, the front method causes an half stud offset to the live axle making it not straight.

At first sight this seems to be an obvious mistake, but until further confirmation there is still a possibility for this to be an intentional design, to compensate some potential dynamics of this model.

TBs_20110628_163.jpgTBs_20110628_162.jpg

"If it confirms to be a mistake [which it HAS NOT], it is one of easy resolution. You just need to replace the connector on the front with the correct one."

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Haha default_laugh_new.gif I wish I could be under those same circumstances.. I still can't get around to buying one in the first place. default_sceptic.gif

You could try to win one through the contest here. :classic: It's really worth getting if you have the opportunity.

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What Bigfoot is referring to is the Unimog's tendency to tilt to one side because of the weight of the battery box, not the asymmetry caused by the front Panhard rod.

Still, regarding the rod, it is intentional, as is explained here.

Edited by AVCampos

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My first build caused me some confusion on the front chassis. There was no mentioning about the overall reasons why some would mod it rather a diagram from TLG explaining how it work and why 8110 is build this way.

The Panhard Rod has been discussed many times before and following by the book, I found myself a victim for hours of checking back, rebuilding, fault searching and finally decided to build it my on way which was a solution found out by many fans:

Here's my reasons:

- the overall symmetrical looking with the body shell. (Not slanted)

- the exposure from both front tires against the fender look better.

- the holding angle (front view) of the front suspension are better looking. (\ / instead of \ |)

With the Panhard Rod issue, the Front Suspension also gotten my attention:

Never able the compress smoothly without the cab secure back to the chassis. Some holding power must be applied to the top mount of the suspension. No issue with the rear suspension.

- I relocate the suspension mounting 1 stud toward the body at least to make the linkage of the suspension rod better. This is to prevent the rod to bend away from the body when you push down the suspension. We should apply force at different angle to make sure the compression is smooth and I don't remember there's any discussion on the front suspension.

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Thanks for the effort efferman. Will definately give a try, but I'm working on 9398 before coming back to 8110 and probably making it RC.

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I am not sure, if this has been mentionend before, but has anyone noticed, that the two lower steering liftarms work themselves out of the red pins with bushing? Not, that this is a real problem, but it is strange.

Additionaly, I want to see, if I can reinforce the frame structure a bit more. When there is some pressure in the middle of the structure, the whole chassis tend to bend instead of compressing the springs.

Next up: Attachments and RC via NXT.

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Does anyone know the number of parts shared between the cargo bed and the front plow?

I'd like to keep the bed intact while also displaying it with the plow attachment. I know the blue/gray panels are shared and it seems like a few others are as well and because I have no spare parts, they will have to come from Bricklink.

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My unimig is leaning to the left, probably because of the heavy battery box. And I really wish that I had some air tanks, caus it is pretty anyoing that you need to control the pump all the time, and when you are lifting something heavy it takes forever to raise the boom.

Hi

I used this as a less than elegant solution to the 'leaning left' problem.

photo%20(10).JPG

photo%20(8).JPG

As I said, it's not elegant but it does the job.

Grum

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Does anyone know the number of parts shared between the cargo bed and the front plow?

I'd like to keep the bed intact while also displaying it with the plow attachment. I know the blue/gray panels are shared and it seems like a few others are as well and because I have no spare parts, they will have to come from Bricklink.

Anyone know what parts are needed in order to build the plow while keeping the cargo bed?

Edited by therealjustin

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Just build the plough and see what parts you got left over. Then check the parts you need to build the cargobed and order them on BL...

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Anyone know what parts are needed in order to build the plow while keeping the cargo bed?

I found this list somewhere in the forum.

Regards

marv

Edited by marv

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K what does TLG stand for????

The Lego Group

Edited by DLuders

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I used this as a less than elegant solution to the 'leaning left' problem.

photo%20(8).JPG

As I said, it's not elegant but it does the job.

quite the contrary - in my humble opinion your solution is very clever and solves one of the most annoying drawbacks of the unimog in an elegant manner...

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True! I would have to agree with that. It solves a problem and since the color of the battery box matches the panels, it's not really sticking out :thumbup:

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I have made the same mod, except i have 2 battery packs behind the cab and i wider and longer bed on my 6x6 unimog

one battery pack is for driving (2XL) and steering (1M) the other battery pack is for dual pumps (1M) and pto (1M), and i have added one airtank for more playability to the crane,

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