Your layout, table or floor?

[Brickthus]

My layout is on the attic floor at home. We had it purpose-built with low walls to maximise floor area.

The layout will be on tables at shows, 16ft x 12ft with the extra attic modules removed.

The layout is modular to keep set-up time down. I hope it will still be less than 8 hours when it's finished!

Mark

[LEGO Guy Bri]

I have a large city in a triangular closet that was originally unfinished. Noty actually the attic but basically similar space with visible roof supports and loose plywood floor. This 3 1/2 ft by 13ft room was finished in 1996. Since then it has been filled with Lego with maybe a total of 5 sq feet to move around in. It is barely wide enough for me to walk thru with room for one of my feet in the last 4 ft of the room. Along with a 50 degree roof angle and max heighth of 5 1/2 ft I have little room to move around (I'm 6'4").

I love the floor layout, but have run out of usable room, even for vehicles. I want to move to a regular room IF I can figure a way to take one over. Thats another problem, but I would like to go to a table. My problem that relates to this subject is that my city takes up a solid 45 sq feet and thats only a little more than half of the sets owned. What would be a good custom plywood table design that offer the most area for sets but that allows easy reach access to all parts. To give an idea of part of the scale of this city My Harbor alone has 3 6541 intercoastal seaports, 3 6542 launch and loads, 2 7994 City harbors. This is only a small part. I need a table design for 500+ sets but have never seen a professional Lego dislpay live due to a living in a small city. Any advice is welcome especially those with room size table train layouts

Thanks

[Davey]

Stacy and I opted to go with tables mainly because I don't like being hunched over trying to build on the floor. In addition, our layout is in our non-finished basement so the floor is concrete. Getting it up off the floor is easier on my knees/back as well (geez I'm sounding old). My reasons for wanting tables would be as follows.

1. Easier and more comfortable to build on.
   
2. Flat/level surface for running trains (the key is building a sturdy table).
   
3. Reconfigurable (depending on table design).
   
4. Better for display (looks more professional).
   
5. Potential to store boxes/bricks/etc underneath.
   
6. Easier to hide wiring for 9V and lighting.
   

Stacy and I opted for a modified PNLTC design for our tables. They are 30" x 30" so they hold nine of the 32x32 baseplates or four of the 48x48 baseplates. You can see the tables in the picture below as we were constructing the layout.

The nice thing about the 30"x30" design is that they are very reconfigurable so you can alter your layout to meet the needs of any space. Our particular design is a little more "heavy-duty" than the original PNLTC because we were not planning to move ours much. As such, I used 2"x4" studs as the frame for the table which gives a nice solid frame for the plywood and minimizes any flex in the tables. I can easily walk on mine without any worry.

You can also see in the picture below what I meant by using the area underneath for storage of boxes/bricks/sets/etc. by raising it up off the floor, you maximize your storage space which in my case is a must.

You can also see below that we have "cut-outs" in the center of the layout so that you can access the whole layout to "play" with everything. Kids that come over to our house seem to love that! We also made sure to have the table-tops at "eye-level" for the average 8-10 year-old which increases the "wow factor" for them it seems.

So there you have it...my reasoning for using tables versus putting my layout on the floor. Stacy and I have been thrilled with the tables thus far and are glad we made the investment to put them in.

-Davey

[BillytheKid]

WOW, that looks indeed professional. You've a nice place to build tables and storing the lego. I've to do it with 5x5m space.

[Davey]

WOW, that looks indeed professional. You've a nice place to build tables and storing the lego. I've to do it with 5x5m space.

But you pack so much awesome stuff into your 5m x 5m space! Stacy and I love looking at pictures of your layout. All that wonderful 12V goodness. You really put together an awesome layout, especially given the space constraints.

-Davey

[LEGO Guy Bri]

Stacy and I opted to go with tables mainly because I don't like being hunched over trying to build on the floor. In addition, our layout is in our non-finished basement so the floor is concrete. Getting it up off the floor is easier on my knees/back as well (geez I'm sounding old). My reasons for wanting tables would be as follows.

The nice thing about the 30"x30" design is that they are very reconfigurable so you can alter your layout to meet the needs of any space. Our particular design is a little more "heavy-duty" than the original PNLTC because we were not planning to move ours much. As such, I used 2"x4" studs as the frame for the table which gives a nice solid frame for the plywood and minimizes any flex in the tables. I can easily walk on mine without any worry.

You can also see below that we have "cut-outs" in the center of the layout so that you can access the whole layout to "play" with everything. Kids that come over to our house seem to love that! We also made sure to have the table-tops at "eye-level" for the average 8-10 year-old which increases the "wow factor" for them it seems.

So there you have it...my reasoning for using tables versus putting my layout on the floor. Stacy and I have been thrilled with the tables thus far and are glad we made the investment to put them in.

-Davey

Wow! That is a great large setup! I now have an idea of the scale of the size of table(s) and square footage needed for a my full display. Are your tables able to be moved for differnt configurations or were they connected to form a more or less permenent table?

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

If you have enough space to put your layout on a table you could...:

1) have less dust (I hate dust, my Lego is always shining but I have to put a plastic cover over the floor every time I don't play, and compressed air every time I put LEGO back in the boxes);

2) have the space to hide under the table the hundred meters of electric wires you need to control a complex 12 volts layout (in my room I have chosen a trans-clear wire, but in any case the effect is uncool).

My 12volts layout

...heaven is an undusty room with a giant table where you can put all you lego sets!

[vgo]

2) have the space to hide under the table the hundred meters of electric wires you need to control a complex 12 volts layout (in my room I have chosen a trans-clear wire, but in any case the effect is uncool).

I've decided to fix that problem on my next 12v layout by raising the track. I have 3 brick high base which has space for all the wiring and then green base plates that have ballast and the track on top of that.

[Davey]

Wow! That is a great large setup! I now have an idea of the scale of the size of table(s) and square footage needed for a my full display. Are your tables able to be moved for differnt configurations or were they connected to form a more or less permenent table?

Thanks! The tables can be moved...in theory. They are bolted together on each side with 5/16" bolts so moving them around is pretty easy and we've changed the configuration in the basement a number of times. It's just a matter of getting underneath, unbolting the table, and moving it. The idea is to have a solid piece for display, which is very sturdy, but still have the ability to customize the layout when we want to.

That being said...the tables are not really what I consider "portable". We're pretty much confined to moving them around in different configurations in the basement. Taking them to a public exposition somewhere would be a lot more difficult as each 30"x30" table weighs about 10-15 lb. I could have built them a little lighter to allow transport but as I wasn't planning to take the tables outside of the house, it made sense to go with something more "heavy-duty".

The design I used is something similar to this: http://www.gplr.org/html2/media/table.pdf

However, I substituted 2"x4" boards for the 1"x2" boards listed. I think I also went with 1/2" plywood instead of 3/8" but I can't remember. Those two substitutions make the tables more sturdy but also a lot heavier.

-Davey

[LEGO Guy Bri]

Thanks! The tables can be moved...in theory. They are bolted together on each side with 5/16" bolts so moving them around is pretty easy and we've changed the configuration in the basement a number of times. It's just a matter of getting underneath, unbolting the table, and moving it. The idea is to have a solid piece for display, which is very sturdy, but still have the ability to customize the layout when we want to.

-Davey

Well this is perfect then. I have no plans of moving my city in and out of the house either. I just need to have the flexibility to move the tables, if needed, as my city expands. Thanks Davey

[Breakdown]

Two comments that I'm shocked that no one has mentioned.

1.) With the layout on the floor you can walk through it. Set up the train and then add the decorative touches, you cannot do this on a table. It's somewhat dangerous but I've never had a mis-step. I have long arms, but they can only reach so far, so you either build like you paint a floor, or you make a sprawling long setup.

2.) Videoing and taking pictures. One way to get the most layout in one shot is to go high for some pictures. In my video I have a camera mounted on a tripod that's atop a desk and pointing down. Eagle-eye view, you simply cannot accomplish this or it gets comprimised by having your track up on a table. Unless you have a vaulted roof or 12' ceilings, etc.

[Andy Glascott]

Two comments that I'm shocked that no one has mentioned.

1.) With the layout on the floor you can walk through it.

My current table isn't big enough to need it, but the first one I built (4 metres by 4 metres) I built strong enough to walk on, it meant I got the best og both worlds - wires underneath coming up through holes drilled right beside points, signals etc and able to access it if needed to re-rail, modify etc.

Andy

[retrotecchie]

I just boarded up the attic floor and have 40 square metres of space to lay the track out. No carpet as old blue/grey rails don't like a soft surface. The knees suffer a little (especially if you kneel on a brick - ouch!) so I have a small table and chair to sit and build at in relative comfort.

[fred67]

Two comments that I'm shocked that no one has mentioned.

1.) With the layout on the floor you can walk through it. Set up the train and then add the decorative touches, you cannot do this on a table. It's somewhat dangerous but I've never had a mis-step. I have long arms, but they can only reach so far, so you either build like you paint a floor, or you make a sprawling long setup.

2.) Videoing and taking pictures. One way to get the most layout in one shot is to go high for some pictures. In my video I have a camera mounted on a tripod that's atop a desk and pointing down. Eagle-eye view, you simply cannot accomplish this or it gets comprimised by having your track up on a table. Unless you have a vaulted roof or 12' ceilings, etc.

My plan is 30x60 inch tables. Although I plan for it to be modular, my initial plan is four tables, laid out something like this:

112
4 2
433

Where 11 is the first 30x60 inch table, 22 is the second, etc.... I hope the idea is clear.

It will give me a 30x30 center to work in, should the need arise. I can add tables later on (there will already be branches built in to the initial layout).

If I change my mind, it will only be to use 4 feet by 8 feet plywood instead, and do roughly the same thing (if I have space). I will never have to reach more than about 2 feet, and I can get anywhere and wire it from underneath with no problems.

Going the modular route, I could even do half height (or any height) legs if I wanted (or wanted others) to be able to get a better look.

[ZueriHB]

I currently prefer floor, so much more space to use.

Also I'm a barebones model railroader, no scenery whatsoever ^^

Also, large curves, tables and small apartments don't mix well.

[Cameron_Talley]

Two comments that I'm shocked that no one has mentioned.

2.) Videoing and taking pictures. One way to get the most layout in one shot is to go high for some pictures. In my video I have a camera mounted on a tripod that's atop a desk and pointing down. Eagle-eye view, you simply cannot accomplish this or it gets comprimised by having your track up on a table. Unless you have a vaulted roof or 12' ceilings, etc.

From a model railroading standpoint, a table lets you get more realistic pictures. We see trains in the real world at eye level, not from the air (unless you're on an Airplane!). Many model railroads are built about chest height for a more realistic view.

[Legoless]

Damn- I want to go and move into Davey's basement- it looks quite big, so do you think he and his missus would notice that a fairly large Englishman had moved in?

As regards the noise issue generated by using trains on a table, one trick would be to take a leaf out of the model railway brigade's book- and use some kind of underlay, such as thin foam under the tracks. A better technique would be to cover the table tops in cork sheeting, which is not too expensive. A third option (and the cheapest) would be to use the kind of foamed rubber used as flooring underlay for laminate or floating wood floors. Bracing the underside of the table tops would help too as it would stiffen it and make it behave less like a drum skin.

Or, if you like a challenge, install suspension in all of your trains. This would help them ride better, improve traction, and quieten down the noise. I've seen some interesting designs for train suspension based on pneumatic tubing.

[craym0nk]

I just boarded up the attic floor and have 40 square metres of space to lay the track out. No carpet as old blue/grey rails don't like a soft surface. The knees suffer a little (especially if you kneel on a brick - ouch!) so I have a small table and chair to sit and build at in relative comfort.

I'm also planning on taking over the roof space of our first home (currently under construction). The pitch of the roof isn't that great and the house itself is extremely narrow so there is absolutely no chance I'll be able to stand up (I'm 6'2") even at the highest point, but hopefully I'll still have some usable space. I'm thinking a wheeled office chair with the back removed could act like a garage crawler to scoot around on. My real concern will be avoiding the air-conditioner ducting and all the truss work. It's gonna be fun, fingers crossed.

[______]

I like table, I just love the sound EN makes on it!

[Brickimad]

If I had the space, a table would be it. Have a large 12v layout in the attic, but it's cold and hot and not ideal. The 9v layout is only temporary, and has to go back into storage.

Problem is that houses in the UK are small in comparison, to some countries and rooms are smaller, due to the weather and land space/value.

I also have other interests which also takes up loads of space. Unfortunately Lego layouts eat space, and doing a tiny layout doesn't use all the bits up, and is no fun!

Ideally I would have a large outbuilding, with space for all my hobbies!!!

[Rustie86]

The eventual layout I'm looking to build will be a floor layout, owing partly to the fact that Lego trains are still toy trains, and partly to the use of furniture and walls as scenery blocks. Just seems like a fun way to do it.

Of course, that will have to wait until I can move into my own apartment...

[jojo60]

My layout is now on a table...

Yesterday I encountered my first train disaster : 6 cars and my 7939 engine felt down on the floor.

Casualties : 2 bogie-plates broken (the pin was ripped off) and engine baseplate hollow stud damaged... It never happened when the layout was on the ground

I need to build some kind of guard around the corners... any idea ?

Anyway I still prefer to have the layout on the table : everything looks better from eye level.

[MrB74]

I need to build some kind of guard around the corners... any idea ?

Buildings around the outside, apart from a straight section along the perimiter for easier access?

[hoeij]

My layout is now on a table...

Yesterday I encountered my first train disaster : 6 cars and my 7939 engine felt down on the floor.

Casualties : 2 bogie-plates broken (the pin was ripped off) and engine baseplate hollow stud damaged... It never happened when the layout was on the ground

I need to build some kind of guard around the corners... any idea ?

Anyway I still prefer to have the layout on the table : everything looks better from eye level.

I prefer tables too. I've had a few crashes (on a concrete floor!) but haven't had any broken pieces yet. Still, it's no fun if the train falls on the floor, you have to search everywhere to find the pieces.

One way to decrease the chance of derailments is to lower the voltage of the battery box. Use rechargeable batteries instead of regular batteries. Rechargeable batteries produce 1.2V each, that way the battery box produces 7.2 volts instead of 9. This helps a bit, but if the train is short, or if you have a long stretch of straight track, it may still pick up too much speed to make it through a curve. I have considered replacing one battery by a dummy, thus running on only 5 batteries, i.e. at 6 Volts max.

Also, make sure the track is tied down (e.g. tape, or lego plates) so that it doesn't shift when the train comes through.

[Kridge]

Thank you all for your exeperiences !!!

I now decided to make my own layout on a table ! Seems to give more advantage than a floor one !