Superkalle

LDD Design Challenge #4

12 posts in this topic

OK folks, time for LDD Challenge #4.

Have a look at this pic.

Challenge4.jpg

If you try to close the tipper bed you'll find that it's not always easy. Sometimes when you use the green arrows it will close shut, but sometimes it will not close properly, leaving a small gap. I've found that when trying this, only about 1 of 5 times it will shut absolutely close. Surely an irritating "feature" in LDD, but that's how it is.

Now for the challenge: Besides the "trial-and-error" method there are a few methods that will close the tipper shut 100% of the times. What are those methods? Explain in text. Scoring: one correct method gives you 1 point, two correct methods 2 points and so on.

NOTE: Please be sure to "hide" your reply. If you color the text the same color as the background then.... EDIT: Use the SPOILER tag to hide text - You find it in the Quick Access menu to the left (under the Icons). Thanks Mr Lego Bildur for pointing this out!. Hopefully this will make the resistance to sneek peak a bit higher :classic:

LXF-file here

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You have to use the buttons on the turn tool instead of the lever - it will shut 100% without a gap

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@NoWorries: OK, but in what way specifically? Describe even in more detail how you would do it. I'm searching for a certain technique you have to use.

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Alright...

On a model that simple, what I'd do is delete the hinge, move the tipper, make a new hinge that's straight, and click and drag to move the tipper back onto that. But I'm pretty sure that's not the solution you're looking for. It only works at instances like that, where the hinge position you want is close enough to the one you have for the auto-position to attach the tipper back on (or for you to get it into a good enough position with the 90-degree rotations the arrow keys offer).

The second way (on this file, anyway) is to click the stud at the very top of the blue dial. Works like a charm. Unfortunately, this only works if the piece was flat when it was originally placed. In instances where you're starting with an angled piece, or for that matter when you want the piece in any position other than the one in which you placed it, that method isn't always possible.

The third way probably uses the Hinge Align tool, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to get that to work for more than a second.

EDIT: Replace one of the flat tiles with a studded plate. Use the hinge align tool, clicking first on the base of the tipper, then on the plate. The hinge will adjust to connect the plate to the base of the tipper. Now if only this tool were complex enough to properly connect a minifig's hands to the handlebars of a bike... I just a few weeks ago wrestled with that problem using mainly trial and error.

Edited by Aanchir

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C'MON everybody.

I know a lot of people are reading these challenges I put a up, but not many take up the challenge. Be brave, post your replies :classic:

For this last one there are three (that I know of) solutions.

1 super easy

1 clever

1 difficult

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I'll be willing to take this one up... But the download link seems to be broken?

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I'll be willing to take this one up... But the download link seems to be broken?

Fixed now!

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Close it until there is no gap, and use arrow keys for proper closing-opening. Goona try it in LDD now.

EDIT yes, use arrow keys or click the angle tools pointers (the ones that look like lego plates with 1 middle stud).

Edited by Zblj

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I have a solution, but I was given it by you (Kalle) some time ago. Here it is however:

You kind of have to take a hold on the green arrow and kind of "slam" it closed

:laugh:

Stupid spoiler thing doesn´t work for me :angry:

Edit: Copy paste is one of my best friends :grin:

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I have found only two practical solutions (and the second one is cheating a bit...) They are:

One:

Click the northernmost jumper marker using the hinge tool. This seems to work all of the time.

Two:

Replace the 2x2 hinge with a 1x2 hinge. Using this piece seems to solve the problem with the gap, but some structural integrity is lost.

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C'MON everybody.

I know a lot of people are reading these challenges I put a up, but not many take up the challenge. Be brave, post your replies :classic:

For this last one there are three (that I know of) solutions.

1 super easy

1 clever

1 difficult

That's how I feel about Brick. I comment on so many people's comics at my hosting site to get people to come back and read mine. Somebody's reading it, but only the usual suspects comment (and sometimes not even them). I even have a place here for you guys to comment, but almost nobody does.

As for me doing the challenges... With my computer down, my limited LDD time on this computer every day these days needs to be focused on making the comic. So I just don't get time to do things like these challenges... or work on my airship MOC.

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OK, boys and girls. Thanks everyone for your entries.

Here are the correct answers (well, correct and correct....it was the answers that I could come up with :classic: )

1) The easy one- just click the green markers in the rotation wheel. Most of you got that right.

2) The clever one - first remove the tyres/wheels. Then use the green arrows to close, and then put the wheels back. This trick can actually be used in other places in LDD too. Many of you got this right also in different variants, i.e. basically temporarily edit the model.

3) The hard one - OK, this is far fetched, but it IS a solution - you can open the LDD file in a text editor and edit the brick position numbers directly.

Oh yes, then there is the "slam shut method", i.e. yank the green arrow fast with the mouse (yes it's true). It works sometimes, but not always, and the quest was to find out a method that works 100% of the times (sorry Ras :tongue: )

OK, see you soon with Challenge 5

(btw...*whispering* if you have any idea for challenge 5, please let me know)

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