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Gabrielthorn

10001 Metroliner with PowerFunctions

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traintech1.jpg

Hi there,

I've just ordered my first Lego train set(I've been dreaming about it for 16 years), the legendary Metroliner. I'm planning to build a city with RC trains, so I'd like to modify the train to work with PowerFunctions. Can you give me some advice how can I achieve this? I don't have any idea how to place the IR receiver and the rechargeable battery box into the loco, I think there's not enough space for them.

Thank you!

P.S.: Sorry for my poor English.

Edited by TheBrickster

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I've done it before. It isn't hard at all. All you have to do is gut out the inside of the engine. I was able to fit, the rechargeable battery, I.R. receiver, and all of the wiring. I don't have any photos, but it isn't hard to do. However, converting the Metroliner into a PF train kinda defeat its purpose. I converted mine back into running on the 9v tracks. Good luck!

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Thank you for your reply :classic: Is it enough space for the IR receiver without removing the passengers in the back of the loco?

Edited by Gabrielthorn

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Thank you for your reply :classic: Is it enough space for the IR receiver without removing the passengers in the back of the loco?

I successfully did make it work, I will be uploading pics on my mocpages site this week. I have gone with strictly rc track for my layout to utilize the cross over tracks. I also modified the rc train bases into "passenger cars" and placed them in the middle of the train. If you are going to Brickworld you will be able to see them in action.

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Remember to modify the roof to make room for the top of the IR receiver. I made a gap of 3 studs long by 2 studs wide. I also included the PF lights in my Metroliner but you have to remove the controlpanel and chair plus round 1x1 trans bricks fall of them so you have to do with white lights.

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I also included the PF lights in my Metroliner but you have to remove the controlpanel and chair plus round 1x1 trans bricks fall of them so you have to do with white lights.

That depends. I have no experience with that nose, but does it hold a 1x1 or 1x2 plate in any way?

Flat, on it's side, whatever? If it does, it would be "simple" to rig something up, assuming you have enough room behind it.

Hold the trans (clear? Would work nicest I think.) 1x2 with a brick or a plate into the headlight hole, then set up a headlight brick with the PF lights in them and a trans-yellow or trans-red 1x1 on it. Then pray that the light transfers through the trans 1x2. It should though.

That's all assuming you have the room behind the nose AND that it will hold a 1x2 plate.

Which it probably wouldn't.

Anyway, using the extension cable 8886, you should still be able to use the original lights in the Metroliner. Which is a far easier method of adding light. ;)

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That depends. I have no experience with that nose, but does it hold a 1x1 or 1x2 plate in any way?

Flat, on it's side, whatever? If it does, it would be "simple" to rig something up, assuming you have enough room behind it.

Hold the trans (clear? Would work nicest I think.) 1x2 with a brick or a plate into the headlight hole, then set up a headlight brick with the PF lights in them and a trans-yellow or trans-red 1x1 on it. Then pray that the light transfers through the trans 1x2. It should though.

That's all assuming you have the room behind the nose AND that it will hold a 1x2 plate.

Which it probably wouldn't.

Anyway, using the extension cable 8886, you should still be able to use the original lights in the Metroliner. Which is a far easier method of adding light. ;)

The nose wasn't desiged to hold a plate, I had to remove the Train Light Prism 1 x 4 then put the PF lights in it.

The rest of the wagon is occupied by both the IR sensor and the batterybox so there wasn't enough room to hide the wireing. But yes putting a classic 9v light with an extension cable is a good idea and has less wiring to hide.

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I know this is a bit off-topic, but.. WHY do you want to change it to PF if it is your first train? I assume you want to get some PF trains in the future, but wouldn't it be easier to change them into 9V?

I have to admit, I am old-school when it is about trains, but 9V is superior in a lot of ways me thinks...

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Prepare for my blurry low resolution pictures of a modified Metroliner:

Some information, why I didn't just connect the extension cable to the light brick at the front: the old 9V electric cable broke, so I used my PF lights and some ideas laying around to make it go again (and light up of course).

As seen here, the dummy engineer can still sit comfortable at his console and do his work. Also the battery pak is easily removable.

29205_393336008518_680863518_4197706_5306944_n.jpg29205_393336098518_680863518_4197707_5758823_n.jpg

Once again, some Emerald Night leftovers were used to support stuff, like the IR receiver this time.

Old Light Prism still in use and lighted with your handy PF lights, not that hard to pull of, old light brick used for stability.

29205_393336203518_680863518_4197709_3838599_n.jpg29205_393336263518_680863518_4197710_3418507_n.jpg

The IR receivers cable is routed on the left side of the battery, to keep the LED free.

29205_393336323518_680863518_4197711_4279109_n.jpg

And use a simple method to switch it on and off without removing or opening anything:

29205_393336403518_680863518_4197713_5906753_n.jpg

Final product and light testing. There was enough cable to light the bar at the back.

29205_393336488518_680863518_4197714_6686019_n.jpg29205_393336598518_680863518_4197715_5727874_n.jpg29205_393336598518_680863518_4197715_5727874_n.jpg29205_393336668518_680863518_4197716_4392163_n.jpg29205_393336793518_680863518_4197717_7067171_n.jpg

Alternatively the IR receiver could be installed in the back and nothing much would happen at the front (with PF lights).

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Here's how I've done it:

4685292930_f774fbfe1c.jpg

I left a 3 x 2 gap in the roof for the sensor.

4684659113_eee434cb5d.jpg

As you can see with PF lights the inside is a hopeless mess.

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4684659151_4cbe2ac1cf.jpg

4684658977_c33b2d54a4.jpg

I took the prisim out, while the light is now white instead of yellow/red it's equally strong on both sides. With prism the emmited light is stronger on one light then the other.

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