helos

TTCE: SBB ce 6/8 (Swiss crocodile)

13 posts in this topic

ENTERED

This is my own interpretation of the famous "Swiss crocodile". The central body is built in 7 stud. The model required interesting snot solutions and has 4 artiiculations wich allow turning on the Lego tracks but at the moment it is not yet motorized. I've almost completed the bogie with a small PF unit but the main problems are fitting the battery pack in the body and applying the OR rings on the wheels for friction.

ce_8_a1.jpg

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=4132702

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Now that is one good-looking Croc!

ce_8_b.jpg

And all in brown...

Seriously, can't find a fault with this engine, it's brilliant!

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I saw this on brickshelf and for a minute had a sense of deja-vu. Could prove interesting to see who comes out ahead.

Difficult for me to decide on which I like better. I will say your stickers are awesome, proportions look accurate, and from a purist perspective like that you mounted the boatslides legally.

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This is also a nice entry. It's interesting to compare the design choices with HoMa's crocodile. One of the things I like about looking at others mocs is getting ideas of how to convey details in minifig scale, seeing two different approaches to the same prototype is very helpful.

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Now that is one good-looking Croc!

ce_8_b.jpg

And all in brown...

Seriously, can't find a fault with this engine, it's brilliant!

The model is in reddish-brown color. Only the two windows 2x2 (part n.2377) on the front as windshield are in brown because it doesn't exit this part in reddish brown. The picture shows a tiny difference between the two colors.

The ce 6/8 machine are usually painted in a dark green and for what I know only the 14253 one is (was) painted in brown.

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The model is in reddish-brown color. Only the two windows 2x2 (part n.2377) on the front as windshield are in brown because it doesn't exit this part in reddish brown. The picture shows a tiny difference between the two colors.

The ce 6/8 machine are usually painted in a dark green and for what I know only the 14253 one is (was) painted in brown.

Hi,

I'm new on the forum, just love your Ce 6/8, IMHO it's finished, how it should be.

Do you happen to have any pics from during the build? Or even some cad pictures?

Cheers, Thomas

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Now that the category 2 voting is over I just wanted to add my compliments on this MOC. It does a great job of capturing the proportions, colors and details of the original. The builders plate, like the headlamps and snotted vents, adds a subtle, delicate quality. I also like how you worked in curve slopes on top the cab. You are good with decals so maybe consider printing counter weights?

- BMW

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Do you happen to have any pics from during the build? Or even some cad pictures?

Cheers, Thomas

I've planned to share some pictures of the model partially disassembled. Other "croc" lovers could gather ideas or improve the model as I've done too watching the shared photos in the web before the construction of mine. I tried once building with L-draw-it required long time. Eventually I've preferred building real model instead of virtual.

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Now that the category 2 voting is over I just wanted to add my compliments on this MOC. It does a great job of capturing the proportions, colors and details of the original. The builders plate, like the headlamps and snotted vents, adds a subtle, delicate quality. I also like how you worked in curve slopes on top the cab. You are good with decals so maybe consider printing counter weights?

- BMW

It's a real honor to hear this from you. You can't imagine how I like your creation. Regarding the decals, I don't exactly understand what does it mean counter weights-please read my reply in this forum at: MOC Refrigerator Cars

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I've planned to share some pictures of the model partially disassembled. Other "croc" lovers could gather ideas or improve the model as I've done too watching the shared photos in the web before the construction of mine. I tried once building with L-draw-it required long time. Eventually I've preferred building real model instead of virtual.

Grazie mille ! (Thank you very much)

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ENTERED

This is my own interpretation of the famous "Swiss crocodile".

Just like to say I really enjoyed looking at your model. Nice work.

You have used a lot of fine SNOT technics :thumbup:

I have tried to make my own croc as well, but mine is a complete disaster compared to yours. :tongue:

What part did you use for the upper central light in the front ?

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Just like to say I really enjoyed looking at your model. Nice work.

You have used a lot of fine SNOT technics :thumbup:

I have tried to make my own croc as well, but mine is a complete disaster compared to yours. :tongue:

What part did you use for the upper central light in the front ?

The front lamps are the trouble of the croc reproduction but also the key to obtain an accurate model. I’ve tried out various solutions to get a good result.

For purist who accept only the BBB wheels I could suggest these following solutions:

The common base is a 3794 jumper with a 2555 tile clip on.

a. Use a black 2343 goblet and a transparent 4073 plate round.

b. One black 42446 minifig neck bracket, one black 424 technic hub and one t4073pr

c. A dark gray 3899 minifig cup and a t4073pr

d. one black 752 hose end, one black 6246 screwdriver and one t4073pr

Finally I decided for this one: Take a black hose 73590 and cut the tube 4 mm far from the join. Cut off a transparent stud from a brick or plate then put it into the shortened hose with a logo faced outside. I used for the lower lights two black 2555 tile clip and two black 4599 tap with cut transparent stud inside. Obviously the rule requires two transparent 4073 plate round. The lights are the sole modified parts in my model and they can be easily replaced.

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The front lamps are the trouble of the croc reproduction but also the key to obtain an accurate model. I’ve tried out various solutions to get a good result.

Finally I decided for this one: Take a black hose 73590 and cut the tube 4 mm far from the join. Cut off a transparent stud from a brick or plate then put it into the shortened hose with a logo faced outside. I used for the lower lights two black 2555 tile clip and two black 4599 tap with cut transparent stud inside. Obviously the rule requires two transparent 4073 plate round. The lights are the sole modified parts in my model and they can be easily replaced.

That's creative and it looks really good. Since I am not a fanatic purist I like these solutions (though I try my best to avoid them).

One more question: how is your "croc" going through curves and/or switches ? The mid section with all linked driver-wheels looks long (?)

no problem to articulate ?

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