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Teddy

Emerald Night, driving rods and platforms

7 posts in this topic

traintech1.jpg

Dear all,

I've been scrolling through the topics about the Emerald Night and haven't found a discussion on this one yet.

In my train layout I prefer to have my platforms as close to the track as possible, as in real life.

And to have it at least two bricks high. Because having it lower it is just too low, in my opinion.

So far I've never run into problems doing so. And scrolling on brickshelf I saw most builders build their platforms that way

So here is my "problem" i've finally bought the Emerald Night and ran it along a platform. :classic:

But the width of the driving rods extend a bit beyond the 8 stud wide track. in effect the emerald is 9 studs wide at the wides part of the driving rods.

So the driving rod connecting the large rod to the horizontally moving part gets stuck on top of the platform. :sceptic:

a solution would be to move the platform half a stud away. but then the fit is really tight. in effect the rods will touch the platform, and there is no additional space.

So another solution is to move the platform 1 stud away. But then, the passengers need to "jump" almost 2 studs to reach the passenger couch.

Making the part with the passenger couches look a bit weird.

Were if the platform can be just against the rail it is only one stud, which is still a little bit too far to the couch but looks more or less okay.

Has anybody experienced a similar problem in running the Emerald Night along his layout?

Kind regards,

Teddy

Edited by TheBrickster

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Make the coaches 8 wide and add ''doorsteps''.

The coaches look too small compared to the engine, so does the tender.

Planning on fully overhaulin mine in the future, then i'll make the whole thing in 8 wide and remove all the gearing and stuff to make it run on 9V better, i'll also make the pushrods sleeker, as i think they are a bit bulky on the original. I'll propably do that with the thinner technic bars.

Good luck on it! :thumbup:

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Thanks for your reply CGH.

making the couches 8 wide is an excellent idea.

When the platforms are two bricks high, they are slightly below the height of the standard train wheels.

So the couches would still fit without touching the platforms.

I agree on making the driving rods sleeker. I think I will MOD the Emerald Night as such that it fits the platforms as i use them.

But, CGH what is your opinion on platform height and distance to the track?

Edited by Teddy

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A platform should be as high as the bottom of the doors.

Nowadays those are all standard size i think.

A lot of trains ofcourse have doorsteps to accomodate entry at lower platforms or overcoming distance between the coach and platforms.

I'v even seen retractable doorsteps, i think it was on the TGV. (Maybe some pnuematic there? :tongue: )

Maybe this picture will help?:

orient%20express.JPG

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The Emerald Night was probably designed not to have a platform, hence the ladder up to the door. Although I think the cars on the Emerald Night were based off of the pullmans which didn't have ladders.

24_41_23---The-Moorlander-Pullman-Dining-Service_web.jpg

So I've removed them off of mine. Removing the ladders and moving the bogies back a little also makes the car look longer. But I think the best solution to make it look better at the platfors would be to widen the cars - a very good idea, but one I won't be trying until I have at least 3 cars and money to burn on BrickLink. But good luck Teddy!

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thanks Captain Zuloo,

I still think it is a pitty if the Emerald Night cannot run along most layouts because of the width of the driving rods...

And trying to avoid it running in a railway station, might not be possible.

Does anybody have a solution for fixing the width of the driving rods yet?

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Well, there are thinner beams that you could use, along with the 3/4 pins that are designed specifically for that type of beam. Using that, and replacing the angle-connectors with these, should narrow the width of the driving rods at least one stud. To connect the beam with the alternative angle-connector, use 1/2 pins.

At least, I think it will work. I'm not sure.

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