brunojj1

[MOC] Mercedes-Benz AMG C63 DTM manual and RC in 1:10 scale

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Thanks Eric! I´m feeling honoured if you wish to build and display it. Some nice renders from you would be really awesome as always, if you want to make some - I´ll write you and provide some data to you soon :wink:.

Of course it would be possible to build the white/black version accordingly, if only the curved panels were available. Unfortunately the roof stickers wouldn´t match then. I don´t know if all these changes in the instructions / sticker sets will ever happen - depends on how big the interest in this model still will be in August with the release of the new panels. 

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It is such an interesting and well made model. The exterior of the car is beautifully executed and instantly recognizable. I really like the front and rear lights.

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Amazing job as usual! The cars are very beautiful :wub:. I really like how you used some panels upside-down on the sides and the way how you achieved those sleek lines, especially in.... Every angle :wink:

Watching the video of manual version, in 0:25 when you open the door,  the panel #1 makes a small and smooth horizontal transition. Do you put a soft shock absorber as part of a lock system?  If so,  it's pretty ingenious 

Is so great to see how turns your initial shifter concept and manual chassis 

Ps. The models should be in the HOF right now :grin:

Edited by Jonfensu

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13 hours ago, brunojj1 said:

I made that decision too at some time when some lava orange car came around the corner :tongue:... We will see what the future will bring.

Exactly, this lava orange model triggered me to come out of my LEGO-less cave where I spent 30 years since my youth and made be pick-up the LEGO virus again... :laugh: 

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7 hours ago, Jonfensu said:

Amazing job as usual! The cars are very beautiful :wub:. I really like how you used some panels upside-down on the sides and the way how you achieved those sleek lines, especially in.... Every angle :wink:

Watching the video of manual version, in 0:25 when you open the door,  the panel #1 makes a small and smooth horizontal transition. Do you put a soft shock absorber as part of a lock system?  If so,  it's pretty ingenious 

Is so great to see how turns your initial shifter concept and manual chassis 

Ps. The models should be in the HOF right now :grin:

Thanks, mate! I´m sorry, the door is not as sophisticated as you think. It´s connected to a tan frictionless 3L pin only, of which the slack allows to put it at this slight angle. The "lock system" consists of nothing but a 3/4 pin under the door and a 1/2 pin at the panel behind. Should crawl into the Hall of Shame therefore :grin:...

1 hour ago, brickhank said:

Exactly, this lava orange model triggered me to come out of my LEGO-less cave where I spent 30 years since my youth and made be pick-up the LEGO virus again... :laugh: 

You´re welcome, nice to hear such stories :thumbup:!

Edited by brunojj1

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I can't really understand. Could you really match the real gear ratio between an XL motor and an M motor? So, an M motor runs on 390rpm and an XL on 220rpm (under no load). Even this is not a perfect value. And even a little error in the ratios can harm the motors. Or did you use a differential not to harm the motors? I'm really curious:sweet:

And I'm impressed by how you used panels on the side(bottom):thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Edited by move5

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1 hour ago, move5 said:

I can't really understand. Could you really match the real gear ratio between an XL motor and an M motor? So, an M motor runs on 390rpm and an XL on 220rpm (under no load). Even this is not a perfect value. And even a little error in the ratios can harm the motors. Or did you use a differential not to harm the motors? I'm really curious:sweet:

And I'm impressed by how you used panels on the side(bottom):thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Thanks! It´s relatively simple: calculate the XL motors´ rpm 220 x 3 (gear ratio 24:8) = 660 and the equilvalent of the L motor (not M btw) rpm 390 x 20/12 = 650. The total load is distrubuted on both motors and results in a very efficient torque value. Both motors engage the differential from both sides and are indirectly hard-coupled. No harm to the motors at all, don´t worry!

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21 hours ago, brunojj1 said:

Yeah, unfortunately you will barely see it from above, even if you remove the easily detachable engine hood (attached only by 4x 4L axles with stop). From the side, looking through the wheel house, you can see the pistons moving though.

Out of curiosity, why did you choose to go with this mini engine instead of a more standard one? I am not knocking the design at all because I think overall it looks great, but that engine looks kind of disproportionate to the rest of the car, especially having it positioned in front of the wheels and sitting so low. Much like the 42056, you have what appears to be a  great gearbox idea, but you can't really show it off.

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19 minutes ago, Meatman said:

Out of curiosity, why did you choose to go with this mini engine instead of a more standard one? I am not knocking the design at all because I think overall it looks great, but that engine looks kind of disproportionate to the rest of the car, especially having it positioned in front of the wheels and sitting so low. Much like the 42056, you have what appears to be a  great gearbox idea, but you can't really show it off.

The mini engine 1. is a preferred construction of my own; 2. requires less space; 3. makes a lovely noise; 4. is far more in scale than the antiquated standard one.

It´s not disproportionate and sits right there where the real engine of the real car is sitting. The gearbox functions and engine sound is shown off sufficiently in the video IMO, check it out. Or even better - build it yourself and study the details :wink:

dtm-auto-ggrafik-sicherheitszelle-514.jp

Edited by brunojj1

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24 minutes ago, brunojj1 said:

 

It´s not disproportionate and sits right there where the real engine of the real car is sitting.

dtm-auto-ggrafik-sicherheitszelle-514.jp

You have your engine positioned in front of the front axles. Are you saying that that green box is the engine? That looks like some type of cushioning for impact. I can't imagine a race car having the engine sitting all the way in the front. That seems dangerous.

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 The engine should definitely be between the front axle and the cockpit, and the V8 with standard blocks fit nicely the 1:10 scale. Still, the body look gorgeous.

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Question about two parts and if their colour matters because they are new and not really available yet.

QTY. 3 of DBG  Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with Center Pin Hole

QTY. 4 of Black Technic, Pin Connector Round 1L

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16 minutes ago, technic_addict said:

Question about two parts and if their colour matters because they are new and not really available yet.

QTY. 3 of DBG  Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with Center Pin Hole

QTY. 4 of Black Technic, Pin Connector Round 1L

You will need only 2 x Black Technic Pin Connector Round 1L for the "AMG" livery at the "B" - pillars of the roll cage. The other 2 under the roof should be replaced by DBG, being invisible anyway. 

I have used DBG #32184 at the seats because I was short on cheaper 3M levers #6632. You can use the much cheaper (I didn´t know) 6x of DBG #6632 instead of #32184. In the manual chassis I´ve changed though the quantity of DBG #32184 from 1 to 3 due to an instructions error.

All I can say is: SORRY! Instructions will be updated asap.

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Thanks to the team that brought this project together, the bar has been raised again.

Now I know what my winter project is going to be - 2 x AMG's

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16 hours ago, Lipko said:

 The engine should definitely be between the front axle and the cockpit, and the V8 with standard blocks fit nicely the 1:10 scale. Still, the body look gorgeous.

This.. but damn what a sexy looking car!!!

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19 hours ago, brunojj1 said:

You will need only 2 x Black Technic Pin Connector Round 1L for the "AMG" livery at the "B" - pillars of the roll cage. The other 2 under the roof should be replaced by DBG, being invisible anyway. 

I have used DBG #32184 at the seats because I was short on cheaper 3M levers #6632. You can use the much cheaper (I didn´t know) 6x of DBG #6632 instead of #32184. In the manual chassis I´ve changed though the quantity of DBG #32184 from 1 to 3 due to an instructions error.

All I can say is: SORRY! Instructions will be updated asap.

 

The mentionned parts have been replaced and the minor errors have been fixed. Updated instructions and partslists.

Edited by brunojj1

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